jcniest5

Yes, the compressor engages when I turn on the AC, just no cold air coming out. I use a recharge kit with a pressure indicator to measure it. Can there be such thing as a bad compressor even if it's engaging fine?

Okay, lately my AC isn't blowing cold at all even though its full with freon. I've converted from R12 to the R134A freon and it was working fine until not too long ago. What could be causing the problem? This is on a '91 Legacy AWD.

Remember that the left and right timing marks (located on the left and right camshafts) have to line up with the notches and the main one (located on the crankshaft) with the one directly above it.

If my memory serves me correctly (which may not), I believe you have to turn the engine twice to get to the correct one. I think you may just be on the first turn, so turn the engine one more time, the timing mark should come back to the same spot, which should be the correct one. But like said, my memory may be completely off, but it's worth a try.

Unfortunately, yes. Few, but some do go out. Granted, mine is a '91, so age plays a big part on mine.

Mine went bad, so I'm sure there are a few out there that will go bad as well.

Again, if my memory serves me correctly, there are openings (or holes) that enable you to get to these bolts. I think they use size 10 mm socket. Hope this helps.

There are three bolts holding the motor to the door panel. I did mine awhile back (the driver side) so I don't remember exactly how each step by step went but I think it was obvious what goes where. Nevertheless, it was a pain to work on it (especially putting it back together). Have someone stand by ready to help because you will need three hands at time. The glass keeps coming down and that is very annoying, so a second person standing by will save you lots of swearings...

Just an update: Finally had to do it regardless if it was the correct component or not, and it was really the right rear bearing going bad again after only three years of service. Took it back to same Red Rooster's Machine Shop and the guy there managed to break the ABS wheel while trying to press out the bearing. I knew he did it because it was good when I took it there but I asked him to solder it back in place and it works okay so I didn't make a big deal out of it. Other people might have made a big deal out of it. The humming noise is gone now and all is good again (for how long, who knows!). The guy told me that aftermarket bearings usually never last as long as the original (or OEM) bearings. The bearing on the other side still going strong and I'm already putting the second aftermarket bearing on, that's pretty bad longivity. I forgot what brand was the first one, but this one is a Federal Mogul bearing...anyone heard of it? Good or bad?

Does anyone know if the engine on a '97 Explorer is non-interference or interference? I see a Craiglist local here but I believe the timing chain/belt is broke. If the engine is non-interference, I might buy it and fix it. If it is interference, then I'm not going to bother with it. Thanks...

Thx...will do just that with my next timing belt change. It has been 100K+ miles since the last timing belt change. It's about time for another one but winter is coming and it's getting cold so I will wait until summer to do mine (assuming the car will last until then).

A good engine degrease/wash every once awhile wouldn't be too bad of an idea. My 91's engine looks a lot cleaner because I clean it regularly. Me, too, sorry that I have to offend someone here...forgive me.

So, what's the final verdict? Synthetic or Conventional? I've been using Synthetic for the past six years or so. And I've used Penzoil and Mobil 1 full Synthetic. Should I stop using it and just juse thicker oil or one that is made for higher mileage cars?

I completely agree on this. You would save at least $300 (if not more) doing the tranny flush and diff. fluid/oil change. These are easy to do.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but does anyone know when to replace the idlers (bearing - 3 or 4 of them) without having to take off the cover and inspect them manual/visually? I saw all these kits that have the idlers as part of them and I'm just curious. Should they be changed as part of timing belt change?