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I looked high and low for the ignitor. I have not found it. This leaves me to believe my 99 has the ignitor intergrated with the ignition coil. Also stumbled across this very interesting site: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/electrical/ignition.pdf Not all vehicles have an ignitor seperate from the ignition coil (coil pack). I think if the ignition coil has 4 terminal connector it is ignitor and igniton coil combined. If the ignition coil has 3 terminal connector it is used in conjunction with external ignitor. From my understanding the ignitor is an amplifier that bumps up the pulses to the ignition coil. Since I am getting a pulse only to 1 coil this leads me to either the ECM is shot or an open circuit from the ECM to the coild pack wiring. According to the above link note that both secondary windings (high voltage) are completely floating from ground. Therefore measuring the hv output of the coil pack with an ohmeter to ground will show infinity. The ground is artificially obtained by the opposite, nonfiring spark plug, soft firing, simulating a ground. Neat, Huhh? Or am I missing something? My attempts at getting an accurate schematic of my 99 forester igniton system failed.

humm. Looked long and hard for the mysterious transistor unit. Tommorow when I get the garage thawed out, I will look again. I can't imagine a module with a couple of transistors being large. This definately is not incorporated with the ignition module itself?? I need to wade through the schematics more to locate it. Thanks for the help. rick

1999 forester manual Went out to start a couple of days ago and only cranks. Good and strong. The long and short of it is no spark from the back 2 terminals coming off the coil pack. cyclinders 3 and 4. Front 2 jump 1/2" or more to ground. I don't have a code reader nor a full blown schematic. The coil pack has a 4 terminal connector. Using an oscilloscope I found the front most terminal on the coil pack jumps from zero volts to 12 volts in time with the cranking. I assume this drives the functioning half of the coil pack. I found no other terminal doing this. If I knew which pins from the ECU fed the coil halfs I could at least cut my troubleshooting in half. I read somewhere about an intermediate ignition driver module but not sure my 99 has such a thing. If it does, I did not locate it. Can anyone recommend a good source for an official full blown shop manual?. I used to have this info but my old laptop died and darned if I can now locate a source. If worse comes to worse, can I order an internet copy somewhere? thanks rick cold and snowed in west michigan

Battery voltage hangs around 13.8 to 14.2. No am radio noise. Haven't checked what effect the defroster has. Maybe tomorrow. How does that figure in the scheme of things? rick w/mi

My wifes 2000 Forester, manual transmission with 175k miles run fine unless the blower motor is on. The idle jumps up to 3000 to 400o rpm and will drop to normal when switching blower off. As winter approaches running without a heater/defroster is hardly an option. Any ideas? rick w mi.

press some window screen mesh into the Jay Bee. I bet the radiator would outlast the vehicle.

I am confused. Idle air control valve or idle air control sensor? I'm trying to understand how this all works and the terms used mean different things. My old ea82s all had idle air control solenoids if my memory is right. Same on my wife's 2000 Forester? 5 speed manual transmission. Months ago it was idling near 300 rpm (no continuous cel) and not knowing what I was doing, I adjusted the positioning of the throttle position sensor (it is slotted) and the idle came up nicely to about 800. She was temporarily happy. After a few days the idle again returned to very low, both hot and cold and frequently stalling. This weekend I tried the same thing and again the idle speed was set at 800ish. And after a few days it dropped down again. Does the ecu relearn the relation between the new tps feedback and idle speed and then compensate to a lower idle? Possibly based on some other faulty sensor or solenoid? Or back to the top of my post. Try changing the idle sensor or solenoid or whatever it is called? rick w mi

If you don't have a milliamp mode on the meter use a small taillight in its place. As you remove the fuse with the major current path to ground the light will dim or go out. Won't display milliamps but will give you good idea where the trouble is.

Lucky you. Hang on to the 1.8. I've had 3 in my 'fleet' and they have all gone a long ways. Still are in fact. r

In need of go/no go thickness spec for clutch. As title says, 2000 Forester. 130k on vehicle. I don't want to spend $175 if not necessary. Did a quick archive search and found nothing firm. thanks rick w mi

Upon further review, discovered this is a 2002 and not 2004. Replaced the slave cylinder with a used unit just to check things. Could not get fluid flow. Replaced master cylinder with the mate to the used slave cylinder. Still no flow. Tried pumping fluid through the original master while held in the vice and appears as though the check valve (must be one in there some where) is not allowing a draw from the reservoir. This one had some nasty build up on the bottom of the reservoir. Ordered new from Advanced auto. Be in tomorrow. Are either of these units rebuildable? If so, is it worth the bother? Thanks for the info. rick w mi

Will try the slave cylinder. I hope it is not a fork spring as mentioned. That is a big job for a small problem. Thanks for the help. And sorry about the double post. I am not sure how to delete it but will try.

2004 impreza. 120k miles. 5 speed. My daughters car. 2 problems that may or may not be related. #1 She complains of troubles shifting when cold. Michigan cold. When fully depressing the clutch peddle cold the clutch is not quite disengaged as indicated by some grinding going into reverse or 1st. After 15 minutes of warm up time it is ok but the peddle still needs to be near fully to the floor. I am not sure if the warm up of the engine compartment or the interior is significant. This leads to #2. #2 With interior cold, and releasing the peddle it will only return up about 3 to 4 inches and requires snagging the peddle with her shoe. It then snaps up clipping her ankle on occasion. When warm the sticking tendency is still there but seems to be overcome by the additional spring I Mcguivered to help. It is very difficult for an old guy to see around the clutch peddle linkage while upside down, very uncomfortable, and with bad eyes. I know there has been 2 engine swaps so things under the hood are not virgin. If this was a cable operated clutch I would adjust the problem away. I think. Ideas?? Thanks all rick

2004 impreza. 120k miles. 5 speed. My daughters car. 2 problems that may or may not be related. #1 She complains of troubles shifting when cold. Michigan cold. When fully depressing the clutch peddle cold the clutch is not quite disengaged as indicated by some grinding going into reverse or 1st. After 15 minutes of warm up time it is ok but the peddle still needs to be near fully to the floor. I am not sure if the warm up of the engine compartment or the interior is significant. This leads to #2. #2 With interior cold, and releasing the peddle it will only return up about 3 to 4 inches and requires snagging the peddle with her shoe. It then snaps up clipping her ankle on occasion. When warm the sticking tendency is still there but seems to be overcome by the additional spring I Mcguivered to help. It is very difficult for an old guy to see around the clutch peddle linkage while upside down, very uncomfortable, and with bad eyes. I know there has been 2 engine swaps so things under the hood are not virgin. If this was a cable operated clutch I would adjust the problem away. I think. Ideas?? Thanks all rick

Lots of good ideas. The link on testing OBDI I will forward to her and save for myself. The article refers to 90 to 94 Legacys. 95 Impreza falls in that group too? We just chatted a minute ago and again she said the CEL is not on when the motor is running. If there is a code I am thinking it will be stored. Yes, no? Will a bad crank or cam sensor throw a code that will be retrievable? Kate, "If you are reading this, get a can of starter fluid for the next failure. Study the link below also." http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I plajurized from above. Thanks for all the help.