n16ht5

I think all you need is metric sockets and a breaker bar, and maybe a vise for the tensioner. you shouldn't need to replace it, just recompress it.

that dealer is full if it.. i wouldn't have paid them a dime and left. a single cat, welded in, should never cost more than 200-250 (depending on the cat itself) I don't get how a code could see that the cat is at fault.. take a hammer and hit yours, if it rattles and you hear pieces flying around, then it's bad. otherwise my guess would be an o2 sensor, as someone said.

for rallying. because I almost rolled my bronco2 like 8 times:D

is 1st subaru parts going to be the cheapest, good source for atiming belt?

okay that's what I figured. Thanks a lot every one. I know it isn't atf leaking from the power steering. I will tear it apart this week and figure out what is going on. do Subaru dealers usually carry the seals in stock? or can I use rtv? is there anything else I should replace while I'm at it? water pump? Thanks Chris

no it wasn't a subaru dealership. uhhh...

okay thanks guys. yeah I feel really smart for not seeing the leaks.. excitement in finding a nice looking obs made me jump on it :-\ . well I will take it to the dealer, and next week I suppose I'll tackle the seals and timing belt. Thanks for all the help. if you have any more advice please let me know chris

also, while it's jacked up, see if you can wobble the tire up and down like this: | \ | /

clank clank clank is usually the ring gear being chipped in the diffs. or some chatter and what not in the middle would be your diff. jack up the car off the tires and put it in gear and go underneath and listen to the diff.. also, a lot of times, you can feel the diff, if it is going to crap in there. I would check your fluid first thing. see what it looks like/feels like. i've had lots of smashing pumpkins with trucks .

thanks buys. how hard is a t-belt and the seals to do? I have looked around on here but I still don't know. I am fairly competent at taking things apart (I have done an axle swap,) although I have not done engine work or touched a T belt. I bought the car the other day from a dealer, they cleaned it up well before I bought it and I couldn't fit under to see where it was coming out, I should have taken more time . I really didn't expect oil leaks from this new of a car, and I didn't see anything on the ground . ignorance is bliss right? I am thinking of taking it to the dealer and giving them a hard time, what would you say?

The cam, crankshaft, oil pump seals? I will pull the cover of the t belt and take a good look tomrorow

could you send the manual to me please? chrisneibauer@gmail.com

ok the 98 2.2 leaks.. with 89,000 mi. ? what do you guys think? :-\ I haven't really driven anything under 200k, so I am used to oil everywhere and thinks making noises.. but this thing is new to me. and I have never seena timing belt in my life (all american motors).. uhhh

do you guys know how big of tires you can fit with the 2" lift? 215/75r15? thanks Chris

does anyone have a write up with photos of this swap? I just bought an OBS and I wan't to do this

oh man.. sorry to hear that I would die if that happened to my new imp. Although, my broncoii has some really good dents from stumps and rocks

ok I got it. I didn't see where it had a bit of oil on the outside of the engine and I'm a bit worried though.. It is right where the timing belt is on the bottom. I only know american motors, so I'm kind of out of my department with this car. and I couldnt fit under to look that well when I bought it. where do they tend to leak? Should I be worried? thanks chris

ok thanks guys. could you explain the viscous coupler please/

oh yeah sipe your tires too, if you dont use them on rocky surfaces too much. that helps a bit

in reykjavik, iceland

my dream wheeling rig

the great wide vs.. narrow.. for what I do, wider is better. When I think of snow, I am driving through deep snow where I need to float to keep the frame above the snow to keep moving. I have experience wheeling, where I, having the wider tires make it much further than more built wheeling rigs that have taller, skinnier tires *32x11.5 and when I had 33x12.5 compared to 34x10.5 on rigs that weigh about the same *4000lbs. i weighed it at a truck stop lol. my baldish 32inch all terrains got me much further, because I floated on top of the snow more and kept my hood above the snowline . my friends rig with the 34's dug down and he pushed all the snow, and went too deep and got stuck, even though he has front and rear lockers. I just have a welded rear. but on Ice, having skinnyish tires is a good thing it seems, because of the greater contact force, whereas pavement and grippy surfaces work differently. etc... for example: my skiboards go slower than my 192cm skis, because they are smaller on the compact snow/ice, and have greater contact force on the slick stuff. this is my personal experience atleast, I could be wrong on the skinny tire part? however< I don't know if you can really get a wide enough tire to fit in the subs to make much of a difference in the deep stuff. I would just go for the tallest tires you can fit at around the stock width. my 2 cents.

hi, I am contemplating buying this imp obs for $8000 from a lot (talked them too, I bet I could get them to take $7700 or so?). it drove fine, and the motor seemed to run strong, however I am not familiar with subarus at all (american truck work only). is there anything to look for as for problems in the motor? it has 87k on the motor, no dents etc.. power, 5spd with the 2.2l. what do you all think of this deal? Thanks !! chris http://www.autobase.com/photos/large/01883161.jpg