UMT

Nevermind! Got on my knees, got under dash and jiggled the connection a bit for the clutch switch,,,,,,,,,, and it started right up. Must just be the cold weather.. Thanks

This is odd: COLD here in Northwoods WI.! I've had my 99 Impreza Outback Sport in retirement since the fall. Wanted to get the car started up to use for a project. Made sure battery was charged (Brand NEW battery) Ye olde Suby fired right up! Ran it for about an hour. Get up this morning and go to start the car and the lights come on in the dash, the 'ding' starts going off as I have a key in the ignition and I make sure the clutch is all the way to the floor as it's a manual,,,, and it will not turn over. If there is a 'click' when you hit the start button, it's so faint I'm not hearing it. Odd. Get my HD marine battery out of the garage to jump it,,,, same thing. Odd. That battery is fully charged. Jump it with my Saturn Vue (New battery AND a new alternator) and the same thing: nothing.... Any idea what is going on? I pulled the battery cables this morning and cleaned them up with a wire brush. They didn't really need it but I did it anyway. So, at the moment, I'm trying to figure out what might be going on here. Any ideas?

HOW IT ALL TURNED OUT: Well, after trying everything under the sun to get this axle nut off, I finally broke down and visited a small local shop and asked if they wanted to do the work. I told them about the nut situation. They looked at it and quoted me a very cheap price. The car was fixed and now drives like a new one. I asked the tech who did the work about the nut. He said an impact wrench wouldn't budge it so he ended up heating it until it was cherry red with a torch to get it off. I sure wish I would have thought far enough ahead and tried to get this nut off before I ordered the parts and started the job. Then again, I've not had that much of a problem in the past. Thanks to all for the suggestions and those who PM'd me offering help!

Thanks all! I have the nasty feeling that this is going to be a tough one so I'm going to break down and buy some 3/4" stuff. I have a several repairs that are coming up where these might come in handy. Sorry for the inadvertent sexual slang. I'll be more careful in the future knowing that some of you guys are still thinking first with your 'other head.' Ha.

By the way, I edited my post: I'm using a 1/2" ratchet... Any huge advantage to going to a 3/4" ?

I'm replacing the bearings so I haven't been real worried about that part.

I posted recently on this Harbor Freight front wheel bearing kit that I am going to try out. Picked up the kit yesterday. Started on the job today and got as far as the front axle nut and I can't get it off. Put a propane torch to it for about 5 minutes, doused it in cold water, (a 'trick' that I've used in the past with great success) put my trusty electric impact on it and it wouldn't budge. So I put a good 1/2" ratchet on it with a piece of pipe and ended up breaking the end off the ratchet! (Aaargh) I should also mention that I soaked it in Power Blaster for about 8 hours before I started. I live in the boons, work on my own stuff, don't have a big air compressor, etc... In applying heat, how long do you need to put the heat to it? (I already assume that maybe this 5 minutes of propane torch probably wasn't enough) So, Forum Folk, let's hear all your tips on how to remove a really hard nut. (bolt?) Thanks, UMT

Funny you should mention the HF Strut Spring compressors. I bought a set of those too to replace the struts on my 96 Geo and soon on my Suby... I have to tell you I was really hesitant to get into replacing the struts. I had bad thoughts about rusted bolts, twisting off bolts, compressed springs flying around killing my dog and stuff and a extremely nasty job BUT, I finally got started last week AND it turned out to be a easy job. Electric impact (I don't have a big air compressor), can of PB, HF spring compressors and off we go! The HF spring compressors worked great. Well designed for safety. Switched out 2 rear struts in about 4 hours. I buy HF tools alot because I just can't justify spending the big bucks on tools that I only use on the occasional job. If I were even a semi-pro and used my tools alot, I'ld be buying brand name, highly regarded stuff. As an example, I use my trusty electric impact alot and therefore, instead of buying HF, I bought a brand name one. (I can't say enough about electric impacts. I had one of these zip off an axle nut in the dead of winter when a good size rented air compressor and impact wouldn't budge it) I've read alot of reviews regarding the 'drive bolt' on this wheel bearing set and if I have to pick up a better bolt at a hardware store, I'm still better off. So, I hope to get to this job sometime this week. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it all works out.

"HF also sells a 12 ton press for around $120-130 I believe" I had no idea that HF had that many presses! I'ld get one but then you still need the bearing adapters so I'm just going to try this kit. If I did alot of bearing work, I'ld buy a press but hopefully, I WON'T be doing alot of bearing work! Ha. I just did a YouTube search for 'wheel bearing replace' and there is actually several video's showing guys using this type of kit to R&R bearings, front and rear, if anyone else is interested. Like I said, with 20% off, if I get thru a total of 2 uses,, I'm ahead on the dollar side of it. Any more than 2 is gravy. Like to hear more comments from others but I will post again when I get this done so everyone knows how it went. Probably won't be until the end of the week tho.......

99 Impeza Outback Sport: Ok, I live in the boons. EVERYTHING out here is worth gold! Unless you want to sell something, of course. Want to replace front wheel bearings on my Suby... Talked to a couple local shops, and quite frankly, they are nuts. If I want to pay 120.00 hour for labor, I'll spend the money to take it to a Suby dealership. At least there I know someone has probably worked on a Subaru before. Anyway, handy gent that I am, I got to looking closer at doing the job myself. I have the tools I need with the exception of pressing in/out the bearings. (Yeah, I checked with the shops on just doing that too, and they are still nuts) So, I'm digging around 'Ye Olde Harbor Freight' online and spot this kit,,, something I've never seen before. http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html So, I read the reviews. Of course you always have the few 'this is krap!' reviews but most of them reviewed the product favorably. I also looked for the same type of thing on Amazon and, lo and behold, they have the same thing for $50.00 more and the reviews are almost identical. (It appears the main problem occurs when guys try to put a impact wrench to turn the bolt and it strips the threads. ) I looked on YouTube and there is a young guy using a set like this to R&R wheel bearings in his front yard and it doesn't look like that big a deal. HF has also got a 20% off coupon going on so it's kind of a no-brainer IF, I say IF, the product works as advertised and the reviews that I have read are accurate. Yes, it would be 'slightly' more than pulling the hubs myself and having a local shop do the press work but I would own the tools, I could always sell them if I don't want them, and/or will hold onto them for the next job. Question: Has anyone HERE used a tool like this to R&R wheel bearings? Thanks, UMT

Thanks to all. The wheel sat, soaked in PB, all nite. I got a 6' long piece of steel behind it this morning and after two firm tugs, the wheel popped right off the hub. Ultimately, it took me longer to get the wheel off than it did to remove the strut assembly! Ha.. I've had wheels that were 'sticky' in the past but none this bad. Thought I'ld better check with the board before I really screwed something up. Thanks!

Thanks. No, I'm not about to drive around like a nut with no lug nuts. Sorry I didn't explain the situation very well.

Folks, I'm generally posting about my 99 Impreza Outback Sport but about six months ago, I picked up a 96 Geo Prism from a kid. Great engine/trans (Toyota) and I knew it needed new front wheel bearings and a set of rear struts. Long story short: for a bunch of reasons, the car sat outside in the No. WI.. weather for six months. Got to work on the rear struts today and ran into a snag trying to get the rear tire off! Aaaargh. Whoever this kid had working on the car, obviously used an impact wrench on the wheel lugs and they were REALLY tight. Now I can't get the rim off the wheel. I know by reading the forum that someone had once suggested loosening the lug nuts up and driving around crazily (I can do that!) but I'm reluctant to do that UNLESS it's the best and fastest way. Beat on it with a BFH,,,,, (big F hammer) and got nowhere. Sprayed it down with PB Blaster and going to let it sit overnite. So, I need some ideas. I know this has been talked about before but I couldn't find it in a search. Thanks, UMT

Yeah, that's what I did to solve just the issue of dropping gas. Used black 'gaffers tape.' Product used by musicians/sound/stagecraft guys. Like duct tape only stronger and stickier. Will probably end up biting the bullet and replacing with a new one. Thanks for the reply's!

Ok folks, here we are AGAIN with my 99 Impreza Outback Sport. I bought this car with 105k on it and it now has (apx) 245k. Actually, it's been a great car BUT it's at that point where everytime I turn around, something needs replacing. Noticed gas leaking out of filler tube the other day while on a long trip. Got home, pulled the plastic cover over the filler tube (broke 2 of 3 screws, tons of mud and other crap stuck in there) and sure as shootin,' the filler tube has developed a quarter size hole (rust!) about 6" down from the gas cap. The sensors, etc.. up there are full of rust! (sigh) Any ideas on a quick fix for these? I'm really at that point where I don't know if I'm going to keep the car much longer and I just HATE dealing with all the rusted bolts/screws etc.. involved in a total remove and replace. Searched the forum but still could use some ideas................ Thanks in advance, UMT