CITRUSHARK

Yeppers! The Drivers side Idler Pulley was shot. I can get the replacement bearings at my neighborhood parts store and press them into the sprocket. Thanks again for all of your help:headbang: . Sincerely, CITRUSHARK

Thanks for the fast reply, I will pull off the timing belt cover,and check the bolts and pulleys. It sounds like a loud lifter noise. But I know that they are hydraulic and would not make that noise.

Just thought I should finish this thread for helping others in the future. I replaced the Altenator and the problem was fixed. Thanks for all of your help:) CITRUSHARK

I have resolved some very involved repairs with the help of some members here in the past. I have another that I am hoping to get some help on. The Timing belt went out while visiting a customer. I replaced them. The car started right up, but had a very loud clanking noise. At first I thought it was a bent rod. However, someone said that it wouldn't be that because it doesn't have rods. He said that from the location of the noise, that it was probably the main bearing on the front piston. I am hoping for some info on a few things. 1.) is it probably the front main bearing? 2.) What caused this 3.) what steps to take for repair. I know I have to take off the oil pan. How do I remove the front main bearing? How do I install the new one. Is there specific torqing infoved. If so what are the torque specs. Also any other steps or info that I would need for this. Thank you in advance for your help:) CITRUSHARK

I took your advise from earlier at the other post; after checking all the wires to the alternator, I replaced it. All is fixed and my sooby is running great.

Thanks for the info on the pump. It's nice to know how to bypass the relay. It has been 2 days since I replaced the throttle position sensor, and it has been running good. So I've got my fingers crossed that the problem with stalling has been fixed. It has not spit or sputtered since. I am still having a problem with the voltage gauge. I am going to the voltage gauge going whacko thread for that now. I will post here in 5 more days; sooner if the car stalls again. Couger, you have been very helpful. Although I have not met you, you seem to be a person of great character. It's not very often that you find a person that is willing to offer a good deal of help without demanding money in return. My expertise is computers. Couger if you ever need any help with your computer, please let me know; I will be glad to help. I would like to thank all of you that have taken the time to post help in this thread. I don't think I could have done it without you. Thanks a Bunch, CITRUSHARK

Well the car has died a few times the last few days. And I am still waiting for the replacement parts for my computer so I will have to make this brief for now. The ECU is giving me only one code which is the code for the throttle position sensor. I am wondering if a bad Throttle position would cause the engine to die suddenly while driving? The car dies very simular to the behavior of a bad fuel filter(it has been replaced), well kind of. It doesn't really sputter. It completely dies; sometimes for a second or two and sometimes for 5 to 10 minutes. I am going to replace the throttle position sensor today. I have worked extensively with the voltage fluxuation problem that I am experiencing. That issue I am going to be posting in the other post I have involving that. I just thought that I should mention that the voltage is not fluxuating when the car is dying. So I don't think it is related or is causing it. I have not been able to locate the voltage problem. I took the dash apart, etc. My biggest problem with that is the haynes manual does not show the wiring for the voltage gauge. In the Charging Circuitry that it shows, it only shows 1 wire going from the alternator to the fuse box, then from the fuse box to the warning light, not the voltage meter in the dash. So please let me know if you have any info for that. Well after replacing the throttle position sensor, I am not sure where to go from there. The ECU is no longer giving me a code for the injector when it dies(after fixing the ECU). I am thinking that It could be the fuel pump, but I don't know how a sooby fuel pump would act if it is failing. Plus I will have to drive far and probably pay $100 for it. So I am not looking forward to replacing the fuel pump unless I know that is what's causing the problem. Is there anyway I can verify the fuel pump? What other suggestions does anyone have that could be causing this?

Much Thanks for the reply Cougar. I have so many things to say. For example. I am a computer expert. My computer got zapped by lightning 2 days ago. So with all the car fun,,, I have had to shell out 250 for my computer while workin here. I tell ya; When it rains it pours here latlely. So forgive me with my spaztic response to you... but I am confused how there would be a measruable DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground. I mean, after all, shouldn't it be measrued with ohmage, instead of voltage? I was thinking that it was possible that the injector response from the ECU was ok with it being grounded out like it was before. I was thinking that the ECU didn't really even know that it was missing a ground on the injjecotr circuit. After all, the ECU was willing to provide a steady, constent, supply from the positive side even after missing a ground from a circuit that is only 2 wires on the injector. well I can't say much more right now. But Cougar.. you said hang in there .. and I am, I'm tryin bud. Thanks for your help

Well I've got good news and bad news. The good news is that while tracing the circuit in the ECU, I found the cause of the gound circuit malfunctioning. Although there were no scorch marks, a break in the negative circuit occurred. After repairing the circuit, I was able to start the car without the rigged up wire from before. Now for the bad news. I drove for about 25 mins. just fine. After which, the car did the same thing as it was doing before; it just died. Just like before, it wouldn't start after a few atempts. I gave it a few minutes, and it started. got it on the road again, and it died again. So I did the same thing... Gave it a few tries, no luck..... Gave it a few minutes, and no luck. Gave it a few more minutes... and i t started again. So I spent the next 2 hours driving it around the neighborhood. And since then I have had no problems with it. Could that be caused by a failing fuel pump?

Thanks Couger. I do have a volt meter, and I will keep you posted Thanks Again:)

One day it would be fine all day. The next day it would bounce between 8 and around 15 volts. It would do it if I was at a stop light, etc. It wasn't doing it only if I hit a bump or something. I checked the wiring at the alternator; checked the wiring going to the distributor, and the battery. I also checked the fusible links. I am not able to check it while it is running right now. So I am not able to trace the problem. It does not do it when it is not running(at all). My main concern is putting in a new ECU. Of course I won't be able to do anything with it until it is running, so I guess I will have to put in the new ECU and then trace the voltage if the problem still exists. I am just concerned that the fluxuation in voltage will ruin the new ECU.

I am wondering if a damaged ECU would cause the voltage meter in the dash panel to fluxuate? It has a new alternator, so I don't think that the alternator is causing that. I have also checked all the grounds that I can find, and checked the wiring harness, and connectors. I am also wondering if the fuel injector being grounded out like I mentioned could causde this?

That is good to hear that I needn't worry too much about damaging the ECU. I am working with a couple of cats here at USMB. I have sent them a response to the info they have given me about some parts. I am hoping that I can get enough replacement parts so I can use my sooby every day, and not worry about it breaking down in the future. So many owners here talk about having 300,00 miles on their sooby. I can't wait to be able to drive mine.

Thanks Cougar. I will research how to check the diodes and such. I found an ECU for $125 here in Florida. However, not knowing if there was/is something else that caused the ECU to malfunction, I am leary to spend any more time and money right now. I had intended to use this sooby and keep it as a backup for the future. However, Due to the loss of time and money during my sooby downtime, I am going to get other means of transport for now. I fully intend to fix and keep my GL. It will probably be 2-4 weeks before I purchase or fix the ECU. So I hope everyone who has helped me will keep an eye on this thread. Thanks everyone who posted on this thread! TTFN, CITRUSHARK I

That would be great if I could fix the ECU. I have a little experience with electronics. But I am unclear as to how to locate and test the TO-92 transistor you mention. Could you please give me a good description as to what it looks like and what readings I should be getting from them? Thanks for your help, CITRUSHARK