CITRUSHARK

Hello and thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread. My car is still stuck in an apartment complex 40 miles from here:-\ . And this complex is real strickt about towing cars that don't belong there. I have gotten them to let the car stay there till now, and hopfully they will let is stay till monday. Well I read the codes from the ECU(computer). The only code that I am getting, is code 14( Fuel Injector #1). So I called up all the major part stores. Some of them were telling me that it would cost me$400 to $600 for 1 injector. Of course I'm blown away by this, but 2 of them told me that it would be $53 dollars. I asked to speak with the most experienced part person and got a regional manager. So he told me that he would get the part for me. The next day, I go over there and it's the wrong part. It's a multi-port injector instead of a TBI injector. I just can't understand how someone that has been in the parts business so long failed to understand that when it says multi-port injector,,, that it will not work for a TBI. I had to walk them through selecting Singleport injector and looking for it that way. Long story shorter; The two parts stores that showed 1 for $53 are saying that they absolutely cannot find, locate, or get the part that I need, even after pulling the number off the original part. No cross referencing, or anything. While looking for the part, I also called the dealer:confused: and they said it would be around $400. So it looks like when I do find the part(injector) it;s going to cost around that much. And that is half as much as I payed for the whole car. I checked the price for a nissan injector, (87) and it costs $400 as well. And everyone is saying it will take at least 3 days for the sooby part to arrive. This site has been very helpfull, I am hoping that someone can help me locate a dead 86 or 87 sooby that I can get all the major electonical components from it. The MAF, TBI, ECU, AIR VALVE, Pressure Regulator, etc. CAN ANYONE HELP? Although , the computer is only showing that 1 code, I am afraid that After I replace the Injector, the computer will show another code, like the MAF, etc. So I am faced with spending more to fix this car than to just buy another 1. I thought I should mention That if I put gas in the Throttle body, the car will fire up. Also I did get a face full of fuel from the filter, so the pressure seems to be fine. Thanks again everyone, CITRUSHARK

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! I could not smell the fuel either, I looked real close, and stuck a small stick to see if it was damp from any fuel, but none. So I am almost positive there was no fuel in there QUICK QUESTION IF U R STILL AROUND. CAN U TELL ME WHAT IF ANY CONNECTORS i NEED TO CONNECT TO GET THE CODES TO FLASH. i AM A LITTLE CONFUSED AS TO THE SOME OF THE POSTS IVE READ THAT STATE THAT i NEED TO CONNECT SOME WIRES TO GET THE CODES. PS SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS

If you do a search for CITRUSHARK, you can find out what I have discussed about my 87 gl 1.8 TBI. My last post explained that the car stalled at the market. Well today, it stalled out of town and will not start:banghead: . And now it's at an apartment complex and I have to either fix it tommorrow or tow it:-\ . I pulled the line on the filter going to the throttle body, cranked the engine , and gas squirtted out of the fuel filter, so the pump seems to be working fine. Then I took off the assembly going to the air filter and cranked the engine. the injector is not spraying any fuel at all. Tommorrow I am going back with more tools. But I need to know 3 things... 1.) Do I need a noid tester to check the wires going to the injector? Or can I use a ohm/voltage meter to check the voltage. If so, What voltage should it be reading? 2.) Are there any other components that could cause the injector not to function? 3.) Is there a way to get the codes from my vehicle if the engine light does not work? Any other information that I could get this eveing before I go to try fix the car tommorrow would be greatly appreciated. PLEASE HELP CITRUSHARK

I have A 1987 GL HATCHBACK 2WD, TBI, EA82. 1.8L I just can't believe the bad luck I have been having with this car. Since my last inquiry about the voltage gauge going whacko, the car decided to refuse to start while I was at the market. It was running fine, but when I tried to start it, it started for a second and then stalled. I tried it again and it did the same thing. So I popped the hood to check if there was anything obvious that could have came loose etc.(nothing). So I waited about 5 mins. and it started and ran for about 10 secs. and stalled again. So I tried to start it again, and it ran for a second and then stalled. It did that a couple more times, then wouldn't start at all. So I thought that maybe the something with the fuel delivery had failed like the pump or the filter. So I replaced the filter. But that didn't help. So I waited for about 20 mins. to see if it was a vapor lock. but it still wouldn't start. desperate to try anything, I unplugged the wire going to the air control module on the throttle body. And it started. So I drove it home and when I got it home, I plugged the air control module back in and it ran fine. But to play it safe, I took it off and cleaned the air control module and put it back and plugged it in. I really don't think the air control module had anything to do with it because my research tells me that if the air control is bad, it will still start and run, but it will run rough. So it's been about 4 days and everything was running great. The voltage meter had not been acting up, but yesterday, it started to act up again. And now today, I went out to start the car and it started acting like it did at the market, except it did not stall completly, it acted the same way, but I kept revving the engine and it would just about die, then it would rev back up, then just about die, and revv back up again. It would have died if I didn't revv the engine. So it did that for about 10 mins and then majically went away, and is running fine, except for the voltage gauge still fluxuating. (the voltage does not go over 14,15 volts, so it's not like it's going up to 18 volts or anything, but still, thats messed up! So Anyway, here is a fairly complete item list that has been replaced on this car just in the last few months. New alternator new battery, new starter, new injector new air flow body and meter, new vacuum advance for the tranny new plugs new wires new fuel filter well I just found out that the reset wires for the codes(the white wires by the green wires) have been connected. I have unplugged them and am going to wait to see if any engine lights etc. come on. However, any suggestions as to what I can check to fix these problems would be greatly appreciated, and I will report back in a few days, or as soon as a code comes up.

Thank you for your input. That was my thought also. However it has a brand new alternator, but that doesn't mean that it cannot be the altenator. I have alot of experience with american cars. But I don't have that much experience with foreign cars. So I wanted check with some of you here to see if there is some other components like a seperate voltage regulator, etc. or if the distributor could be causing this. So I wanted to get some input about any other things that could be causing this. And how to check them. I will be returning the altenator to have it checkednd/or exchanged. But if there are any other components that I can check, please let me know.. thank you for all your help, Citrushark

I posted a thread about my new subaru's AC not working. This is the second problem I am posting about(Voltage Gauge). I am thrilled that I was able to get the AC working, and I am lovin this car. But now I am experienceing a few problems. I have changed the vacuum advance module for the tranny, and that made the tranny problem go away. But it didn't help with the idle or the stalling at lights. But I will save that for another post. I thought I should inlude those problems for this post just incase they are related. Anyway, I just noticed this morning(maybe it was the first time[i'm not sure], that the indash voltage gauge is going whacko. It is bouncing from 10 volts to 16+ volts(and back) real fast . It went away after a few minutes, but now it's back, and then went away after a while again. I imagine it will come back again, possibly blow somethin, or ... I don't know Any Ideas as to what could be causing this? Thanks for your help, Citrushark

I posted my first thread three days before I actually had my 87 Subaru in my posession. I had to wait over the weekend till the banks opened. So today was the first time I actually got to go through the vehicle. Getting help from this site has been so fun and helpful. Back before the internet when I worked on autos, It could take days even weeks to figure out repairs that I had never done before. The ability to have many gearheads with their vast amount of knowledge right in my living room is uplifting and inpiring. It's a great example of the power of the internet. There's alot to be said about this power when A professional mechanic has replaced 3/4 of the major components on this auto, over the course of 2 weeks but was not able to fix the AC as well. And missed the mark on diagnosing it by a mile. With the help form great people utilising the awsome power of this site, I was able to fix it for the price of a few cans of freon. :cool: IN 1 DAY. It turned out to be the compressor speed pulsar. The discussions, and suggestions from everyone that posted here, helped me to use the process of elimination to confirm what was good and what was bad. I would like to thank Subaru_dude vbmenu_register("postmenu_314020", true); USMB is life! dave valiant, vbmenu_register("postmenu_314048", true); I am Leopold Staunch Cougar vbmenu_register("postmenu_314101", true); Subaru Master dragonwingsubaru vbmenu_register("postmenu_314109", true); Subaru Fanatic! JLDT vbmenu_register("postmenu_314127", true); New User 555Ron vbmenu_register("postmenu_314136", true); USMB is life! MilesFox vbmenu_register("postmenu_314721", true); Subaru Outlaw! And all of you that followed my progress Now that the AC is running , it is causing the car to stall, idle rough sometimes at a stop, and a couple other things. I will be posting a new thread for that , (this evening or tommorrow) and I look forward to spending some more time getting to know more posts and people here at Ultimate Subaru. I hope to see you at my new post Citrushark

well there's still hope then:) . I was bummed because I thought that because the compressor was on and there was no cold air, a major component would HAVE to be replaced. I know it's still possible, but I'm excited again to hear that Iit might be a simple problem. Anyway, I am very greatful for all of your help. And I will let you know when I check the fuse and the relay. But I should add that I bought some freon and hooked it up to the system. I let a little pressure out previously to make it accept some more. When I first started to charge the system, the compressor came on for about 20 sec, and then cut off. It did not come back on again. So I let a little more pressure out(just a little) and when I put the freon back, the compressor came on again once some new freon started to go into the system. But it turned off again after about 20 seconds. Does this tell you anything? Well I'm off to look into the relays, and the fuses. Please let me know what you think is causing it to come on for 20 seconds and then turn off. Does that help eliminate anything? Thank you, Citrushark

Well I bypassed the current by supplying voltage from the battery. The compressor kicked on BUT the system is not blowing cold air. The air is blowing, but just not cold. That tells me that its not the buttons on the dash. The system has plenty of pressure as well. And the compressor is turning just fine with no squeeks or anything. Could someone tell me what malfunction is causing this?

All the buttons for the AirFlow are stuck, (except for the AC Button, I can depress the AC Button). They feel like someone superglued them.But from what I have read, The AC is designed to stay on as long as the (main)little AC button is depressed(seperate button From the Airflow buttons), even when I change the temprature slider from cool to hot; and when any of the frozen(glued) buttons are pushed. The AC should be on. When I slide the tempreture slider, the air does go from cool to hot; but of course the AC compressor does not click on when I push either of the AC buttons. SO I dont think it is a vacuum problem. But by me mentioning that The AC should stay on no matter what buttons I push in the Airflow Panel( Vent, AC, Heat, Max, Norm, ETC), I am convinced that the AirFlow Panel IS NOT the problem like the seller stated. Because as long as the seperate little AC button is pushed on, the AC should be on right? So I need to try supplying seperate power to the compressor like dragonwingsubaru mentioned. But I would really appreciate it if I could confirm that power straight from the battery is safe to use. If it is safe to use, and I try that, and the AC blows cold, Then it could be the fuse or the relay that Cougar (Glen)mentioned, Right? Thank you all for your posts, I'm sure you can imagine how useful AC is in Florida.

If I understand you correctly, you are basically saying to apply power to the positive wire that is on the compressor. Right? If that is what you are saying, should I not be concerned about it being the wrong voltage? Because the battery is going to supply around 12 volts, but the compressor might only handle half that, etc. Also, for the other side(negative right?) you mention to ground it out. But shouldn't it allready be grounded. Or are you saying to do that just to insure that it is grounded. And if so, you do mean to just ground the negative wire that is on the compressor right? Thank you for your help, Citrushark

Well I'm not sure if the bypass switch is active or not. Because the seller said it was the buttons in the dash. I'm thinking that if the button is not turning the AC on, then the bypass(pressure) switch is not going to turn the AC on even if I bypass it. Thank you for your post Citrushark

THANK YOU for such a quick and informative responce!! I wish it was a 4WD, However, for my first subaru, and for living in Florida, I can wait till another one with 4WD comes available, becuase when it does, I intend to GRAB IT!!!. But for now I'm thrilled with this one. It kinda sounds like a VW, My main concern for now is to get the AC running. Do you know how to bypass the switch and run a temporary one inside the cab? I really dont know how to test the AC, Where do I start? Thanks, Citrushark

I am very excited about my new 1987 subaru gl. It has 86k on it. New Starter, injectors, altenator, fuel pump, ignition system, distributer, and some other new stuff. The person that I am buying it from bought it for $100 and put another $900 in it for his wife to drive 10 miles to and from work for a year. It runs real good, but the AC does not work. I checked for freon pressure, and there is some. There is no sign (oily resiue) of any leakage. The seller said that he had his mechanic check out the AC. The mechanic said that everything is fine except for the pushbuttons in the dash that turn on the AC, heater, etc. is defective. The owner swears that if I replace the switch button unit, it should work fine. My first question is if You guys agree or dissagree if the push buttons could cause this? My second question is, how do I find out if that is the problem. And can I run a bypass switch inside to fix this temporarily. The seller says that this vehicle has the volkswagon boxer motor. My last question for now is... Is this true? If so what is the Boxer engine, and what do you think about this motor. Also is there any cool upgrades that I could do to this engine affordably? I am thrilled to have found this site, and I thank each one of you for any help, comments, opinions that you could post Thanks a bunch Citrushark 8>)