RedRX

How did you tweak it? On a rolling road or by trial and error? I ask because my same era RX (with mods) also does this sometimes at high revs (ditto fuel cut disabled)

Had another play today. Best run was 9.2 sec for 0-60. Conservative launch (since I am crap at it and the tires are crap too), so little wheelspin hence a boggy take-off. Not bad for a car that handled sandy beach-dune tracks that stopped some Forresters.

I think more aggressive cams do more for older engines (ie pre- 16 valves etc) due to the greater compromises made for economy and drivability. Not many newer engines can be improved much with cams. From whats been posted here the EA82T benefits. Mine has 30-70/70-30 durations but I have never driven a stock RX nor is my engine well set up yet (ignition or fuel issues - not sure. Sometimes runs sweet, othertimes crap)

GTech just arrived in post so had a quick play in the RX. Uncertain of all mods to engine (inherited it sort of), but has wierd hi-tensile socketted head bolts, and 30-70/70-30 cams (had covers off to do lifters once). Only 3 runs pulling onto a highway from the verge and all crap launches trying to offset wheelspin (in front-wheel-drive) with the motor bogging down. Best 2 were about 9.7 sec for 0-60, not enough room for the 1/4 which would be more appropriate for a turbo. Anyone else posting results from this gadget?

Actually hard corner issues are dealt with by dry sump systems. Catch cans are designed to separate/catch oil vented by crank ventilation system and stop oil vapour being sucked into the turbo (oil droplets can lead to detonation).

I long ago added another ground to the other side of the engine. Anywhere else I should do so to assist with the ignition system?

The only thing is I would have thought a bad alternator would lead to flat battery issues - which has never happened in nearly 2 years.

I have noticed that the engine runs much less smoothly (and more liable to stall) when the headlights are on - or even sometimes the fan. I can understand the drain on the alternator affecting idle speed due to loading but rougher running at higher RPMS while driving? Any educated guesses or experience.

GTech just arrived in post so had a quick play in the RX. Uncertain of all mods to engine (inherited it sort of), but has wierd hi-tensile socketted head bolts, and 30-70/70-30 cams (had covers off to do lifters once). Only 3 runs pulling onto a highway from the verge and all crap launches trying to offset wheelspin (in front-wheel-drive) with the motor bogging down. Best 2 were about 9.7 sec for 0-60, not enough room for the 1/4 which would be more appropriate for a turbo.

Have an engine in my RX with a semi-unknown history. Ex-rally kinda - then some-one else had a tweak and rebuild but it sat on the bench. Before fitting had HUGE custom fuel rails and big injectors. Valve covers off show big round 30-70/70-30 cams (apparantly pretty aggressive - i have to idle about 1200rpm) and big black hi-tensile socketted head bolts rather than standard. OK - the question. Tested compression during some lifter issues and have found low all round comps (ie 70-80) but pretty damn even. Now the engine does NOT blow smoke (oil use strictly thru damn lower engine leaks) and from the cleanliness on the inside has been pulled apart not so long ago. Could this be deliberately low compression in order to run higher boost? As far as drivability she is a dog off the line (unless u rev and drop it and spin wheels for 1st and 2nd) but cams and boosts up at 2500rpm and kicks u back (and sometimes starts the wheels spinning again) Having said all that took her on a club day down the beach and hot soft sandy tracks (on a 38 degree C day!), UNLIFTED mind, and she climbed everything including some slopes that stopped 2.5lForresters and the like! Never above halfway on the temp either. Only bogged down once on the beach. So my little show-pony can hack the pace off-road too, SWEEEEET!

Hell if I know what exactly was done to the motor - all I know is that little happens before 2500 rpm and its a dog right off idle. High tensile socketted bolts hold the heads on (aparantly forged pistons but I cant vouch for that). The engine was built up for a local Subi rally drivers son to practise with before finding its way into my car. All ancillaries are standard to bring it back to road spec for registration purposes (ie removed huge fuel rails and oversize injectors). But hey, I'm not claiming i can clean up any old car - just one particular factual event that surprised the hell outa me (and HE was sure hovering about to get a surreptitious look at my bog-standard exterior). Maybe he missed a change and bogged down....

Had a wet road traffic duel the other day. Took off around a corner with a riced WRX on my tail (u know - gauges, BOV, fart-can exhaust). 1st set of lights he is in front of me and takes off on the green - I floor it (in 2WD) and spin on 1st - then 2nd - then 3rd gear before i start to move. He's miles ahead...hehe. Next set of lights and i slip into low 4WD - alongside this time. Launch..... only when I back off at 80 does he come past (BOV hissing away). I guess i caught him by surprise. RedRX - 86 RX turbo, low-comp rally built motor with 30/70 cams, running 10psi with no IC (at pres)

BTW - any comments on RX body-stiffness? I notice all the metalwork box-sections across the parcel-shelf in the boot and imagine the difference compared to a wagon where all that is missing. dang, its good to have her back!!!!!

Okay - after pulling the inlet manifold and seeing (via plug-holes and inlet ports) valves look to be ok just lots of crud on valve stems. Sprayed Subaru Upper Cylinder cleaner direct onto valves and wow - 1st hand view of this stuff working - just disolves away. Did another compression test with decent SCREW-IN tester (tip there for accurate tests) and got an even 100 psi in all cylinders cold. I think this engine has been built low comp for high boost in rally work - they are low but even. Reused inlet gaskets as near new with just a smear of Ultra-grey. Bolted back together (with no bolts left over!) - noticed MISSING engine mount to cross-member nuts!!!!. Found high-tensile nuts to fit and bolted the sucker in. Anyways running 10psi with no pinging or detonation in 33 degrees heat (gotta find a way to get an intercooler without a bonnet scoop) and she does get up and boogie after 2500rpm. Not to mention the pleasure of driving her again with the 2.25 cat-back exhaust. Cheap - with a (cough cough) Holden straight thru muffler (no chrome fart-can here) sounds like a worked WRX and has the sweatest growl on the overrun. Seems to be better anyways - not too bad a flat-spot (just that from the 30-70/70-30 cams). No sign of porting work BTW but i guess thats kinda redundant on a turbo.

Hey at least be grateful all u gotta do is change the belts and set the timing. NO smashed valves, NO smashed pistons.