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Showing results for tags '1983'.
Found 15 results
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I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap... -
Hi, I'm Jeremy and I live in Lake Stevens, Washington. I have a 1983 Turbo Brat that needs some serious help. A friend of mine was supposed to help me restore it during last winter, then without telling me he up and left for Alaska after pulling the dash out. I am now stuck with a non-drivable truck. I don't have a lot of money, so taking it to a shop is out of the question. If any of you would be willing to help me put it back together I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time. -
Here we go... I currently on a 1983 turbo Brat. I'm looking for someone to help me put it back together and do some major repair work. Parts Needed: front end core duel fans front end intercooler (added?)
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Here is my silver unicorn.
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howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask! -
So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
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Hello all ... im rebuilding 1983DL with stock engine EA71 . i have an electric distributor , everything else is stock. does anybody know if i can plant the "ef" fuel injection on it ? or should i use another cam. with another carb to get more power of this engine?
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Hi; I have a 1984 turbo wagon with an automatic trans. The trans shifts and seems to work like it should, but I have a bad crunching and vibration when the car accelerates. The former owner had new axels installed so not them. I pulled the axels and the splined stubs appear to be loose, maybe something in the front diff? I also have a 1986 turbo sedan for a parts car, dual range 5 speed, that I would like to install into the wagon. Has anyone done a changeover like this? Would the later clutch pedal and cable work on the older car? Just from measuring none of the crossmembers look like they will work, so I guess that I will have to fabracate my own. The rear gears are the same 3:70's, but the sedan has LSD in it. Any ideas, input would really be appreciated.
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So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
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Okay, it's obviously far from new. But it's new to me! I've had an 82 and a ratty 86, but this 83 is easily the most solid one I've owned yet. I have a few mechanical bugs to work out, such as a tune up and cleaning the carb, as well as some rust issues that need sorted out (but nothing too terrible), but this single owner Brat was picked up for a mere 900. I'm thrilled. I've named it Johnny #5. If you don't get the reference, you need to brush up on your 80s movies.
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Good evening folks, I've owned an 82 and 86 Brat, both with manual transmissions, and am naturally blown away with how good it is off road. Naturally some of that is because of the low range that comes with the 4 speed. I'm about to buy an 83 with an automatic in pretty nice shape for a good price. Is the Brat with the 3 speed auto as good wheeling as the 4 speed with low range? Is it essentially like running in 4-hi? I'm not expecting it to be as good as my old Jeep Wrangler, but how well will it compare to the manual Brats I've had in the past? Thanks in advance. *Naturally I will post pics as soon as I pick it up tomorrow.
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Here are the pics showing how my EGR/ASV system was plugged/modified, whatever you want to call it. First is a picture of the entire engine. Look below to where the exhaust would come out. There is a little pipe about the size of a quarter in diameter coming towards the camera, it's been cut and welded shut. The next picture is of the same pipe, just on the other side of the engine, the driver side. Same thing. I was told these pipes are part of the ASV system by someone on a forum here. My mechanic said EGR.. Wouldn't these pipes normally lead up to the EGR valve somehow so it can redirect exhaust to the intake? On the first pic, see the bolt directly above the pipe I'm talking about. What engine port is this. There is just a bolt instead whatever went here. A sensor perhaps? The third picture is a closer image of this same bolt/port. It is right by the passenger-side rear spark plug. The next (fourth) picture shows the EGR valve close up. As you can see, the (intake?) hose for the valve just has a bolt shoved in it. The fifth picture is just a view from a little farther away so you can see where the valve is.. The sixth pic is of the EGR valve, looking from the passenger side. This shows another engine port on the intake manifold where a bolt has just been shoved in. What is this port for?? The horrible part is that I don't know if these "bolts" can be easily removed. They look like they were welded in.. One last question, the last (seventh) pic shows the passenger side of the engine from the front view. There are tons of attachment points for bolts and what not on this side. What are they meant for?
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For the EA81 engine, and 1983 Brat, does anyone know where the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is? There is a sensor near the thermostat housing (which is by where the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold I think, passenger side of engine bay) but this sensor is two-pronged which means that, according to all parts catalogs that I've looked at, it is the radiator fan switch, not the temp. sensor that connects with the dashboard temp. gauge. The temperature sensor is just one pronged (at least the aftermarkets that you can buy are one pronged). -
So my Brat has always had pretty weak headlights, but lately they have been downright unreliable. My car runs completely fine, but when I go to turn the lights on at night, my headlights flicker off. When they turn off, I also hear a strange electrical sound (sounds like a servo or something like that). It doesn't happen every single time that I try to run my headlights, but pretty close. I don't think it's the battery, and I already took my alternator out and had it tested, but it passed the test just fine at O'Reilly's. Could it only be bad wiring that is doing this, or does anybody have any other ideas of what the problem might be? p.s. The right headlight shines weaker than the left. I don't know if that is significant or not.
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This is my 1983 BRAT that I bought this summer. It was in pretty good shape when I had bought it, but it needed a paint job for sure, haha. The previous owner had put hours into it, and it was running well. He had also cut out and re-welded all of the large rust spots/holes. I had been looking for a BRAT for a while, and this one was in good enough shape to give me the gumption to purchase. Here is a complete list of what the seller did to it before I got it (besides body work and rust replacement): At 167,000 miles Converted Trans to 4 speed single range 4WD Manual out of an '81 GL At 175,000 Front right wheel bearing replaced At 191,000 Engine/Transmission swap. 4WD Dual-range, 4 speed Manual trans with a bigger clutch from an '84 GL wagon. Engine still an EA81. 135,000 miles on those. Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, 2 crank seats, carb gasket New clutch disc, new pilot bearing, new fluids New balljoints, new tie rod ends, new brake rotors, rebuilt calipers, remanufactured CV-axles (auto zone), new brake pads, front wheel bearings repacked with fresh grease, alignment New performance exhaust Front shocks/struts out of a low mile '86 Brat New Monroe rear struts Bucket seats from an eagle talon installed Custom rear bumper installed Front and rear body cut flush with bumpers Then, when I was in the process of buying it he sealed the undercarriage and coated it with Rhino Liner and coated the bed with Rhino Liner also. After I bought it, he did extensive body work to both doors and the front fenders, primed it, and painted it (double stage paint job with pearl metallic black paint with red flecks that show when the sun shines directly onto the car) He also installed another step panel, so now both sides have the secret step panel. I then put in a carpet kit (which wasn't even wide enough for the car, which was great) and have spent many many hours cleaning and detailing the interior. I also broke all of the plastic fins off the vents because the plastic was all crumbly and nasty. It looks pretty clean now. Since I have bought the car, I have made it my mission to get it to stop leaking, so I have since had new oil pump housing gaskets installed and the crank seal replaced. When we bled the brakes, the master cylinder froze up, so we installed a new master cylinder. It was still leaking, so we replaced a large part of the oil pump that was cracked and put in a new oil sensor. Then the water pump and front brake calipers started leaking so we replaced those. I just barely ordered new rear drum brake adjuster screws because the old ones are completely worn out. I also have new KYB front struts, but haven't put them on yet. The mechanic told me that the only thing that they can see that is still leaking is the rear main seal, but I am waiting to replace that since the engine must be removed to replace that one. I am hoping that it will definitely not leak after this.
