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  1. heeeeeey. i’ve been lurking the forums since buying the murder machine in 2017 & getting so much info from y’all thought i’d finally post some photos. 1986 gl wagon, ea81 swap with weber conversion, 4 inch sjr lift. 6 lug conversion currently running 215/75/15. all the interior lights have been deleted, & the cooling fan is on a toggle - i live in leadville so it’s usually cool enuf. straight exhaust to annoy the neighbors. just installed the steel front bumper & winch!
  2. Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.
  3. Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help!
  4. Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help!
  5. Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
  6. Hi again friends. I recently had my clutch changed and immediately after, I had an issue where I would put the car in 1st or reverse, try to release the clutch and it couldn't move, making the engine bog down as if the emergency brake was on or the gears were somehow bound up. However, once I press and release the clutch, the car would take off as usual. Now it continues to bind up occasionally like that (maybe once per day) but an extra press and release of the clutch frees things up. It feels like maybe 4wd becomes partially engaged (just enough to bind - if that's even possible); however I don't understand why it would start immediately after the clutch was changed and why a press of the clutch would release it. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks in advance. JW 86 gl 1.8 5sp dual range 4wd
  7. 1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
  8. So I recently bought a 1986 BRAT and the man I bought it from said that you could put a 5-speed from a different model in the same generation. I was wondering if that is true and if so I was hoping you guys could help as to which trans it was, and some general buying tips. Thanks!
  9. The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
  10. I'm still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done? The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here where someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the brake lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more). I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was the problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
  11. Im still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. I was able to purchase the car for $2500. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done: The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here were someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more. I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was hte problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
  12. Hi All, I've got a 1986 GL Wagon that desperately needs a new transmission (1.8 AWD, 3 speed Automatic). I can't quite afford a rebuild at this point, so I'm looking for used. I'm not sure where to look or who to trust when looking for one - the internet seems full of parts... can anyone point me in the right direction? (note: My mechanic looked for one, but told me his connections were unable to warranty one or were unwilling to ship to NY). Thanks for any advice!
  13. Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam.
  14. Hey there, I own a 1986 Standard 2dr Hatchback that came standard with the two single large round lights. They work fine, but as a side project I was looking to convert them over to the four square light setup as both a practical and aesthetic upgrade. There are times that the rounds just don't produce enough light even with the highs on and having the four lamps seems like the best option. Not to mention they look a lot more appropriate considering I have seen other models of my same wagon with the four light set up and they look unbelievably slick. Because of the universal compatibility of the body styles in this line of vehicles making the swap is relatively easy, however I need some advice on the wiring harness for the lights in terms of whether I would have to rip out and replace the entire wiring setup and replace it with one that was designed to accommodate the four lights, or if there is a half-harness system of sorts that disconnects at a certain point from the rest of the system for this very purpose. Any advice on what sort of parts I might need as well as advice is greatly appreciated. Beaux. For Reference Before: After:
  15. Hey there guys and gals, I am the proud owner of a 1986 2 dr FWD Hatchback with 122K on the car. I bought it from its original owner so most of the original parts that came with it are starting to wear out and require routine matience. I'm working on my clutch and I am looking for a replacement flywheel seeing as the one I have currently installed has already been machined once and I always plan ahead for the unexpected. The only problem I have is that this part is hard to come by. The issue is that I have one of the rare FWD only models that was just sort of thrown together at the end of the model year from leftover parts to create a sellable product. Subaru stopped manufacturing the car model in 1984, but kept selling the vehicles with a new model year on them until they ran out. As a result, I've run into my share of issues when tracking down parts and have spent many a weekend in the wrecking yards tracking down old donor cars to keep my old gal running. I need the 7 in diameter flywheel. Seeing as not many FWD models were really made and still exist, there is very little demand for and no after market manufacturer for this part. All of the flywheels I've found are the 8 in flywheels that are designed for the 1800 class engine that was primarially put into the 4WD models that came shortly after my model year. I'm fairly confident that I can sand the glazing off of the flywheel with my grinder, seeing as it isn't gouged or warped in any way. However, while it may not be an issue now, in the future if I can't find a replacement flywheel for my engine I may be forced to make a conversion over to the 4WD Dual Range, which might force me to have to upgrade to the larger engine. If anyone has this part or has any advice on what sort of transplanting/frankensteining I can do to solve this issue, please don't hesitate to message me. If there are any other models that carry a flywheel that might be compatible then let me know so that I might broaden my search.
  16. First time posting here, been lurking for awhile. I recently purchased a 1986 Subaru GL station wagon Carbureted EA82 5spd 4wd 218k. The car is a turd and has more rust and random colored body panels than numbers in it's VIN. But it was only $175! Car was running/driving daily and then I went to start it one morning like normal and nothing... -Things I've checked so far: Plugs/cap/rotor Coil Fuel pump/fuel filter Relays/condition of wires Fuses Vacuum lines -Things I've found out: No 12v to fuel pump at all but pump works fine when wired to 12v No spark at the plugs at all No 12v to either coil leads + or - No voltage coming out of coil main lead going to dist. Checked the screw on the dist. Rotor. Replaced relays and nothing changed Bench tested the coil to find 1ohm on primary winding and 9000 on secondary. Even replaced the " fuel pump control unit" aka FPCU or Revolution sensor. It's the small black box located in the drivers foot well near the hood latch area. I've come up with nothing after hrs of scouring through this forum on this issue except a few dead threads on the FPCU. Questions : Could the control/ignition module inside the dist. Be bad ? Although would this cause no power to fuel pump? I'm familar with subarus pretty well mostly ej engines but this ea82 should be simple enough is there something I'm missing that's obvious ? Any opinions or answers is greatly appreciated as I've been at it for 2 days and no luck at all. THANKS!!
  17. In March 2012 I hopped on a train to AZ within an hour of finding on craigsL a 1986 gl wagon on demand 4WD with only 141,568 miles on it! Her color was White and she was Pristine inside and out! Cold AC, alunimun alloy wheels, tires had 3,000 miles on them! For $2000.oo! I drove her the 400 miles home with no problems and she spead right up the hills! Her 5sp was great! Since then I had a new clutch put in and my stepson put in a new water pump and timming belts! I just love Subie's! Thanks for reading and hope to read others experience too!
  18. So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
  19. So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer
  20. A few days ago, all of a sudden, I noticed a very low (400-600 rpm), shaky idling issue coupled with terrible gas mileage... Today it started stalling at every stop unless I give it gas. I believe cylinders 2 and 4 are missing, though it's hard to tell because the idle is constantly fluctuating and randomly stalling. When I get into gear the engine runs fine (still crappy MPG) and when the choke is on it runs fine. I have new Bosch spark plugs and NGK wires replaced less than 200 miles ago. New fuel filter. Cleaned the crap out of the carb. I pulled the plugs and they look normal. Wires are certainly carrying a charge. No random arcs. No visible crack in distributer cap, terminals look fine. Pretty sure there is no vacuum leak but I'm about to do a carburetor cleaner spray check. Head gaskets look fine, no coolant leak or anything. Could this be a problem with the ignition coil pack? I planned on picking up a better one anyways, hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a thermostat issue? I flushed the radiator not long ago, I'm sure the current thermostat is 166,000 miles old. PCV valve maybe? What other checks/cleaning should I do before I go on a random part-buying rampage with money I don't have?? I certainly won't be driving this thing until I figure it out. Thanks
  21. So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?
  22. Half way through a drive I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal much farther before braking began (they worked fine when I pulled of of my driveway). The brakes acted as if they needed to be bled. I didnt get around to it and a few days later the left rear wheel cylinder broke and by the time I made it home all of the fluid had leaked out of it. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes and bled the brakes at the master cylinder and all wheels in the correct order. Yet in order to get any braking power, i still have to pump the pedal 6-8 times and even then it sucks. Sometimes it pulls hard to the left, sometimes it doesn't. Needless to say, I won't be driving like this. Could this be a problem with the master cylinder? There are no fluid leaks. ANY advice would be appreciated!! Thanks!
  23. Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap
  24. so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year
  25. You could say I lucked out on this local craigslist find. 71k miles, rust, scratchless, spotless interior, all original and all electronics working flawlessly, 1986 front-wheel drive automatic XT Turbo. I'm a complete novice when it comes to modifications, but I want to upgrade the audio.....Replace the tape deck/am/fm unit with a modern deck, replace speakers, install small sub and amp. The sound system is complete crap. Anybody have experience upgrading these components in an XT? Any advice would be extremely helpful. Love my first subaru!
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