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Showing results for tags '4EAT'.
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Hi all so I have had some headaches with this and never found a decisive video on how to test the rear lockup system I recently had no rear wheel lock up but no TCU code either so this is what I found and how to test the system for functionality before reinstalling into the car. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 -
Hey transmission gurus, I have a TZ102Z1AAA-CC in the car and a possible TZ102ZABAA-CL to swap in. Are they are both 4.11? Does the full code reveal additional pertinent info to anyone in the know? -
i have purchased a used matching transmission for my 96 legacy because after driving it around with torque bind something in the transmission gave out. (i suspect it is the front diff, between the engine block and the transmission its self) My question is, is how can i check the resistance of the solenoid coil while i still have this transmission outside of the car. id like to know if it is faulty seeing as it is a used transmission, before i install it completely in the car. i am hoping someone knows what pins on the drivers side electrical connection plug is for the solenoid, and what the resistance should be. i really do not want to cut any of the protective outer jacket to trace out the wires on the connector. if i need to post pictures so people know what exactly i am talking about i can. B raynor -
Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.-
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I've recently purchased a 2000 Outback Limited with "transmission problems". It has the typical hesitation going into Drive from any other position. Sometimes, I'll need to get the revs up in order to get it to engage, but even then, it's sketchy. However, once it slams into Drive, it shifts well, with no other issues (until the next time I need to put it into Drive, again.) Scouring the forums, I've found this to be a very common issue with 99-01 Outbacks. Apparently, the new "phase II" trans was manufactured with bad seals that cause this issue. I tried the Trans-X suggestion first. It worked like a charm! ... for about 4 days. Then the issue returned. A 30-year veteran at a respectable trans shop in town tells me that Trans-X (like brake fluid) swells the seals and will work, temporarily, but isn't advisable, since it doesn't discriminate and swells ALL seals in the trans. It also makes it more difficult to rebuild, due to swollen seals being more difficult to remove. Still worth a shot IMHO. ($8 bottle vs $1k for a rebuild.) My question is: what years and models will interchange with mine (TZ1A4ZCABA-WL on bellhousing.)?? I have found a salvage yard with a '00 Forester Auto (TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8) and an '02 Forester Auto (TZ1A3ZC3AA-PM). The '00 has fewer miles, but I'm cautious due to being the same year model as mine, might have similar issues. The harness plugs appear to be the same and all have the spin-on external trans filter on the side. Any help would be appreciated. I apologize for being verbose, but I'm trying to give as much pertinent info as I can. Thanks! -
I have a 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS with a 4EAT transmission. It was good for the first 4 or 5 years, but then shifted rough when cold 1-2 and especially 3-4. It gradually got worse, to the point where I kept it in 2nd gear until the transmission was hot. In spite of many trips to the dealer, their only solution was to replace the transmission. Recently, my car wouldn't idle consistently and the dealer cleaned the throttle body and did a re-learn on the idle. Besides fixing the idle, cleaning the throttle body made the transmission work nearly perfectly, even when cold. Does anyone know why cleaning the throttle body would improve the operation of the transmission so dramatically? Is there some vacuum feed to the transmission? I though it was all hydraulic. -
93 Legacy - New timing belt & water pump, Tune-up, Intake system cleaned, new filters etc. The car runs much better but still seems auto trans is sluggish. No real hard shifting or slipping but lacking umpf. I would like to change the fluid and filter screen & dont want to have a shop do it- prices are high, employee's are inexperienced, parts and performance lack workmanship & quality. I want to Drain the whole system not necessarily flush it, just get out all the old fluid out & replaced. I have searched on "how to do it yourself" & have a general idea of what to do. Take one of the trans cooler lines off to pump out the old fluid that isnt in the pan, Drain & remove pan then clean it out & remove old gasket material/residue, replace filter/screen gasket & trans pan, And refill with ATF. More or less this is the "How to" I found but very simplified. I think pumping/draining out of the cooler line would be done before the pan right? Would new fluid need to be added while pumping out so system doesnt run dry? I'd rather not run a bunch of new fluid in it just to throw it away. I would like to know if anyone has done a flush or drain the whole system at home & what procedure(with details) was used, problems or issues occurred, *lack of a better term* "Tricks"/techniques to use. What brand ATF is most commonly used by members? Any bad experiences with NAPA brand/Or similar ATF? What is a good way to clean trans out before adding new ATF? I was thinking about adding SeaFoam Trans Tune to help clean it out. Anyone used SeaFoam Trans Tune (not regular seafoam) before? Also read that Trans-X has been used & recommended by quite a few subaru owners in their auto's to help or prevent issues. Add SeaFoam Trans Tune drive a few miles, drain & replace with new fluid and Trans-X additive, what do you think? Any & All helpful information or ideas and opinions are appreciated, hope to get replies/responses ASAP, Thanks. -
I've got my '98 4EAT trans apart and I'm about to order some parts to rebuild it. Does anyone have recommendations? I've done the TCU mods to increase cruising line pressure, a shift kit, and a high stall torque converter. I put that into a JDM trans with low miles and the high clutch is shot a year later. It looks like maybe Alto offers a 1.75" carbonite band, and they have some high energy frictions. What does it take to fit another friction/steel in the high clutch? Some machining I guess, and a different pressure plate. -
I'm looking for some parts for a project Legacy L, but in the process I found something that may help my '99 Outback: http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/4381248624.html It's from a 2000 Outback (I'm waiting to get the transmission code), but from what I have read here it should be compatible with my '99 OBW. Is his correct? Which other years are compatible? Now the other question, and a more subjective at that: would you guys buy this transmission? I'm assuming the "AWD not working" means the center differential is fried, so I can just use the one on mine. The stubby axles are not there, but apparently it's just a matter of popping the ones on my transmission in there. But a) this thing looks somewhat neglected (or is it normal for a transmission to look like this?) and most importantly, it looks like the transmission has been rebuilt before (the sticker is from Reliable Transmissions Ltd. in NY). What should I expect from a rebuilt transmission? Would you guys buy one? Thanks! -
About to pull the engine and tranny out of my project 01' lego. The engine is shot in here so I'm going to pull that and the tranny out since it has 165,xxx miles on her and just rebuild them both at the same time, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a good cheap basic tranny rebuild kit with just the seals and gasket and a cheap engine rebuild master kit. Thanks! -
Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory. -
I just picked up a '99 Forester L with a 4EAT for my wife. This is our 2nd Subi, we used to have a '99 Outback with a 4EAT. It didn't do this. When in 4th and then accelerating enough to cause a kickdown to pass, the transmission has a violent kickdown. It feels as if you got rear ended. RPMs increase substantially after pressing the accelerator before the kickdown, at high throttle, resulting in the violent kickdown. I've adjusted the TPS, drained pan (fluid was clean and not burnt), replaced filter, refilled, no change. The ATF Temp light isn't on and I have not been able to pull any codes from it. The car shifts fine under all other circumstances. Any ideas? -
I am hoping, beyond what I can search here, someone has or has seen a good scope trace of the Duty C signal. In a perfect world, there would be a trace from an '00-'03 and one from an '04, when apparently the signal polarity was changed. Before '04, +12V to the duty C disabled the AWD, '04 and above, +12V fully activates the duty-C and the AWD. What I am hoping is that I can get reasonably close to the proper signal by using a few transistors to 'invert' the signal.