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Showing results for tags 'Brat'.
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Hey all! My name is Dave, and I live in Mount Joy, PA. I joined this forum about a month ago, and I'm just getting around to introducing myself. About six months ago, I married into the Subaru family. My wife's daily driver for the last 10 years is her beloved 2003 Baja. She says she would like to keep it for another 10 years, so, I guess I'd better learn how to work on Subarus. She also has said that she thought it would look really cool to have a restored Brat sitting next to her Baja in the driveway. I'm inclined to agree with her, but that's a future project. I've enjoyed looking through some of the different build threads on the forum here. I'm looking forward to learning and contributing as we go.
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G'day all I've been lurking on here for a while & have picked up heaps of useful info from you all. I was thinking it was about time I at least posted a few pics of my Brumby on here for you guys to have a look at. I took a 12 hour return trip to tow it home on a trailer to my house. Since getting it I have mainly concentrated on getting it in good running order so I can use it to travel to and from work. I have also got hold of 2 different sets of wheels in 13 & 14 inch & fitted gen 1 Legacy seats. The cover was gone off the back so I got a new one of those too. My most recent addition is an Addco rear swaybar that I got Jegs to ship over for me. Okay enough outta me, here's the photos: Hope you all like it Cheers Jake
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Half way through a drive I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal much farther before braking began (they worked fine when I pulled of of my driveway). The brakes acted as if they needed to be bled. I didnt get around to it and a few days later the left rear wheel cylinder broke and by the time I made it home all of the fluid had leaked out of it. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes and bled the brakes at the master cylinder and all wheels in the correct order. Yet in order to get any braking power, i still have to pump the pedal 6-8 times and even then it sucks. Sometimes it pulls hard to the left, sometimes it doesn't. Needless to say, I won't be driving like this. Could this be a problem with the master cylinder? There are no fluid leaks. ANY advice would be appreciated!! Thanks!
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I need a drivers side window for my 1980 Subaru brat, can't find one anywhere. any help? -
So I've finally gotten around to post my ride. Ive had my brat for about a year now and i picked it up for $1200. This was the day i brought it home. fenders were rusted and the body was a little rough, but she runs good and i can modify, beat up, and generally have fun with this and not worry. The idea Ive had was to make it look like the warthog from the game Halo. I'm still working on uploading more photos so hopefully this should be photo rich by the end of the night!
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Hey whats up guys, I have a 1985 brat 4wd and im in the process of rebuilding the carburator. I thought i had a dcz 328, but when the rebuild kit arrived i realized the gaskets dont match up. I searched around but cannot find a straight up answer as to which carb i really have and which rebuild kit i need. Id rather not waste more money on kits i cant use, can anyone help me out?
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Curious what the difference is between the models? It looks like there were 79 brats with dual headlights and some with four.....is that the only difference between these models. Did one come later in the year....which is more desirable? thx!
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Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap
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Vehicle: 1986 Brat GL Weber Carb swap, D/R 4spd My dash indicator "brake dummy light" started rearing it's ugly head a while ago, in addition to the turn signal right arrow blinking as if the lamp was out First thing i did was swap the bulbs out in the passenger side assembly, as this was where things were funky. No change. Cleaned the ground that is behind the bed access panel. No dice. The major problem is that the entire tail light assembly goes dark when applying the brake pedal, rather than illuminating brighter. The fuel gauge has always been unreliable, but it stopped working completely after cleaning the ground wire. Which may be a clue to someone as to the circuit in question. Last night I checked the lamp connectors for corrosion, cleaned them, as well as inspected the wiring/pigtails for damage. This got rid of the rapid turn signal indicator, for now... I am kind of stumped as to what is going on here, and i dont feel like being pulled over for something so idiotic. HELP! S.O.S. Thanks in advance -
Most parts from a '79 Brat Post with questions, PM with offers. Buyer pays shipping. Just the handrail is left. VLV!!
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Okay, it's obviously far from new. But it's new to me! I've had an 82 and a ratty 86, but this 83 is easily the most solid one I've owned yet. I have a few mechanical bugs to work out, such as a tune up and cleaning the carb, as well as some rust issues that need sorted out (but nothing too terrible), but this single owner Brat was picked up for a mere 900. I'm thrilled. I've named it Johnny #5. If you don't get the reference, you need to brush up on your 80s movies.
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I just spotted a 1978 Brat at my local wrecking yard. Portland Or. SE Pick-N-Pull. It looks complete and straight. It has a bit of rust in the drivers side rear quarter panel. Too bad you cant purchase the complete thing. Better get to it while its there. They said that most cars only last about 1 month before they are sent to the crusher. These photos were taken at the local yard. Hope this helps you out. I dont work for the wrecking yard, just happened to spot it while shopping at the yard today. I hate seeing classics go without a fight. Anytime I get to put a shout out I try. Also there are 6 Loyals & 11 Legacy's at the same damn yard. Most of which are all complete. Cheers
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I just spotted a 1978 Brat at my local wrecking yard. Portland Or. SE Pick-N-Pull. It looks complete and straight. It has a bit of rust in the drivers side rear quarter panel. Too bad you cant purchase the complete thing. Better get to it while its there. They said that most cars only last about 1 month before they are sent to the crusher. These photos were taken at the local yard. Hope this helps you out. I dont work for the wrecking yard, just happened to spot it while shopping at the yard today. I hate seeing classics go without a fight. Anytime I get to put a shout out I try. Also there are 6 Loyales & 11 Legacy's at the same damn yard. Most of which are all complete. Cheers
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Hello all, So as of a few weeks ago, the idle on my '86 Brat dropped so low (to less than 100) that she'd stall after a couple of seconds at idle. However, when driving, performance is normal. I Imagine I'm going to have to take a look at the carb, there are various leaks, and I'm sure it's got a lot of gunk stuck in emulsion tubes...etc.. While I've never rebuilt / cleaned out a carb before, I know someone who's very good at it, and that will be helping me. Until then though, did some experimentation and developed a little quick fix that I'm not quite sure about being legit, but the result is an idle of about 1000. Here's what I did: In the picture above, noticed that there's a vacuum hose attached to some kind of thing-a-majiger (circled) that when the car is on, opens the throttle a bit. To get the car to idle again, basically fooled around with this, so that it opens the throttle more. Ended up moving the washer (orange arrow) to the other side of the bracket holding it and loosening the nut to shorten the arm that pulls on the throttle. Now it idles at about 1000. So my questions are: ... what is this thing? ...Is it part of the idle control? It was just a wild guess to adjust it like that. ...Is it safe for the engine to do this until I'm able to clean out the carb? ...and are there any other reasons why that would be causing her not to idle, but perform fairly well when driving? Thanks guys! -
Good evening folks, I've owned an 82 and 86 Brat, both with manual transmissions, and am naturally blown away with how good it is off road. Naturally some of that is because of the low range that comes with the 4 speed. I'm about to buy an 83 with an automatic in pretty nice shape for a good price. Is the Brat with the 3 speed auto as good wheeling as the 4 speed with low range? Is it essentially like running in 4-hi? I'm not expecting it to be as good as my old Jeep Wrangler, but how well will it compare to the manual Brats I've had in the past? Thanks in advance. *Naturally I will post pics as soon as I pick it up tomorrow.
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What years and body styles interchange for a DR 5 speed transmission? Will the 5 speed DR interchange easily between the models? I know this question has been beat to death, What years and parts interchange between the 2 Gen Brats, Wagons, Hatches and Coupes? I'm mostly interested in the sheet metal and exterior interchange. Thank you, Mike -
I just finished putting in a 5-speed for my brat. I go to start it and it starts imidiately but then wants to die. It sounds like something is hanging up, I think it is the starter but I don't know for sure . The transmission is in nuetral. Are the starter motors for the four speed and five speed different? or does anyone have any suggestions? -
my dad got this brat last summer after i spotted the same guy's 83 brat in my search for parts for my 85. which he didn't want to sell but i got a free canopy and my dad got a $100 brat that had been sitting since 97 after the guys wife got in a accident. the morning after he got it he put in a battery and some gas down the carb and it fired up. its basicly been sitting and collecting more rust besides getting the carb rebuilt about 3 months ago. most recently i've been putting in a set of rear seats. the place where we picked it up in the dalles wrong head rest they were just for measurements
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Here are the pics showing how my EGR/ASV system was plugged/modified, whatever you want to call it. First is a picture of the entire engine. Look below to where the exhaust would come out. There is a little pipe about the size of a quarter in diameter coming towards the camera, it's been cut and welded shut. The next picture is of the same pipe, just on the other side of the engine, the driver side. Same thing. I was told these pipes are part of the ASV system by someone on a forum here. My mechanic said EGR.. Wouldn't these pipes normally lead up to the EGR valve somehow so it can redirect exhaust to the intake? On the first pic, see the bolt directly above the pipe I'm talking about. What engine port is this. There is just a bolt instead whatever went here. A sensor perhaps? The third picture is a closer image of this same bolt/port. It is right by the passenger-side rear spark plug. The next (fourth) picture shows the EGR valve close up. As you can see, the (intake?) hose for the valve just has a bolt shoved in it. The fifth picture is just a view from a little farther away so you can see where the valve is.. The sixth pic is of the EGR valve, looking from the passenger side. This shows another engine port on the intake manifold where a bolt has just been shoved in. What is this port for?? The horrible part is that I don't know if these "bolts" can be easily removed. They look like they were welded in.. One last question, the last (seventh) pic shows the passenger side of the engine from the front view. There are tons of attachment points for bolts and what not on this side. What are they meant for?
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So I just had my engine pulled out of my '83 Brat to replace the rear-main seal. Turns out it didn't even have a rear-main seal. Anyways I also found out that the entire EGR system has been plugged. The EA81 in this car is not original so I was wondering if Brats had an EGR system in 1983. If they did, then my engine has been swapped illegally and won't pass inspection; however, if they didn't, then plugging up the EGR system makes sense and is legal. I need to know fast, so any information would be greatly appreciated!
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So my Brat has always had pretty weak headlights, but lately they have been downright unreliable. My car runs completely fine, but when I go to turn the lights on at night, my headlights flicker off. When they turn off, I also hear a strange electrical sound (sounds like a servo or something like that). It doesn't happen every single time that I try to run my headlights, but pretty close. I don't think it's the battery, and I already took my alternator out and had it tested, but it passed the test just fine at O'Reilly's. Could it only be bad wiring that is doing this, or does anybody have any other ideas of what the problem might be? p.s. The right headlight shines weaker than the left. I don't know if that is significant or not.
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Is it possible to install AC in a 79 brat? If so....how much and how difficult is it? Thanks! -
This is a project I started yesterday when I was given a Mini Brat shell that someone had stored in the rafters of their barn for 25 years.
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Hello, Anyone ever built a Subaru trailer? I am going to give it a whirl. What do ya all thing?
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Hi there folks. I have been absent from the forums (and from my shop) for a few months due to 84 hour work weeks. Yikes! They're finally moving my hours back enough that I'm starting some of my planned summer projects on my BRAT. Now I've been researching all afternoon for a thread anywhere on the Internet and only found one in which a guy upgraded his subaru brat hubs to a modern subaru 5 lug. My question is, what all HAS to be changed to get the new hubs? I know I'll need new rotors and brake assembly but can I keep the same struts and tierod and such? I'm looking for cost effectiveness but I will change anything that makes sense to. Thanks in advance! Ratch
