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  1. Is seems I'll never run out of problems to ask you guys about... So it has been rather hard to start now that it's getting cold here in VA, I've actually had to use starting fluid a number of times. But yesterday I was running errands all day and while it ran fine most of the day, by the time it got dark the engine started stumbling at low rpms... sometimes I could have the pedal floored with no response and was forced to downshift...progressively got worse... and today, even though it was warmed up, it stalled at a stop sign, couldn't get it into gear for like 5 minutes without stalling. It idled at like 500 rpms (usually its between 700-1000). It would rev better in neutral than when driving (still crappy though). I ended up just coating the air filter in starting fluid and I got home just fine, as much as i hate resorting to starting fluid. Oil is slightly low, but not to where it should hamper performance. Coolant is fine and relatively young. Spark plugs were replaced last night, didn't help. My small oil leak has been getting worse, mostly from the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets which I will replace today, a little bit seems to come from the sender, which was recently replaced so I'm hesitant to replace it again. Maybe it just needs some teflon. Not sure if this increased oil leakage could have anything to do with it running like crap... Any suggestions?
  2. I just put the EA82 in my 88 GL back together after a blown head gasket and now the engine runs fine but it's having idling problems that it didn't have before I took it apart (several months went by between starting and finishing, busy with other stuff). I have drained the tank of old gas and replaced it with about a half a tank of new gas and sea foam, changed the fuel filter in the back by the tank, and blew the carb out with some carb cleaner and sea foam. All of that helped a lot but none of it fully fixed the problem. Basically I was hoping it was just bad gas / something simple that would just clear up on it's own, but it doesn't seem to be. When I adjust the throttle (the only thing I touched when I took everything apart for the head gasket) so it idles at around 1000, it's fine until next time I start the car, then it's way too low or way too high. Literally just turning the car off then on again. I played with it and cleaned the carb more (without taking it out) and once the car was warmed up and was idling in a more predictable way and revving normally, I took it down the driveway and the accelerator kept sticking, every time I use the gas pedal, the engine only returns to around 2000 rpms until I lift up on the pedal with my foot. Maybe I have a sticky pedal, throttle cable, or accelerator; maybe carb dirt; maybe something dirty still happening in the gas tank or earlier in the fuel system. I have very limited cash and time otherwise I would be into doing more hunting or taking the time to properly clean the carburetor. Should I: Keep hunting for the sticky gas pedal problem? Take the carb all the way off and take it all apart and thoroughly clean it? Or would it be easier to just get a rebuilt carb and replace it? I have only cleaned little outboard boat motor carbs and a motorcycle carb once and I'm afraid of taking it apart and wasting too much time and not getting it back together properly. Would it work to get a used one off a EA82 at a junkyard / online or am I likely to have the same problem / more issues? What are other variables I am ignorant to? I'm new to Subarus and suck at carburetors, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there are any helpful pictures I could take or any other information I can provide. Thanks
  3. Hey whats up guys, I have a 1985 brat 4wd and im in the process of rebuilding the carburator. I thought i had a dcz 328, but when the rebuild kit arrived i realized the gaskets dont match up. I searched around but cannot find a straight up answer as to which carb i really have and which rebuild kit i need. Id rather not waste more money on kits i cant use, can anyone help me out?
  4. Does anyone know what function the vent valve solenoid on the Hitachi carburetor performs. I located the source of a recent electrical malfunction and it was a burned-out wire at the base of the solenoid. Is this part available at most auto parts stores such as NAPA or Orielly's.
  5. Does anybody know if the 32/36 DGEV model Carburetor from Weber Carbs is the only model that would be compatible with the EA81 engine? Also, are weber carbs recommended? What do you all think?
  6. Been working on my '84 Brat lately. A few years ago I bought a Hitachi Carb from a junkyard, but I can't remember what it came off of. Was wondering if anyone could ID it, and could maybe give some insight on if I can use it on my Brat. Excuse me if I don't know the technical names of some of the parts. The one on the left is the Hitachi out of my 1984 Subaru Brat. The one on the right is the Hitachi from the junkyard. Noticeable differences: Original carb has two metal doohickies on the rear (circled) while the junkyard carb has only one. Original carb has mechanical/electrical solenoid on the left, yellow wire. Junkyard carb has all electrical. Original carb has a hose attached on the front (circled), the junkyard carb does not have this hose attachment. Junkyard carb has a hose going from the metal doohicky on the lower rear to the top of the carb. Original carb does not have such connection. I actually installed the junkyard carb and attached all the hoses, and was left with an extra hose with no connection, due to the junkyard carb not having the hose connection on the front. Car started and idled normally and throttle worked fine, however I was worried about the extra hose so I came here to ask the pros. The hose I'm talking about his highlighted in the second picture, I took pictures of everything before I unhooked the original carb, and labelled each hose. Anyone have any info on the mystery carb and if I can use it? Thanks in advance. Can get more pictures if needed.
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