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Showing results for tags 'Clutch'.
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I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded -
I have a 98 Impreza. A little while back it started popping out of 4th while driving thrn 3rd and 5th followed. First question what would cause this? Second question I was going to take it to my mechanic to get the transmission checked. It backed out fine went into first fine, but when I tried to go in second it would not go in gear and would not go into any gear after that. What would cause that? I am mechanically retarded, the second sounds like a clutch issue, but I'm lost on the first issue. The car only has about 135k miles on it. Any info would be greatly appreciated -
Look what I got! 89k on it, has been sitting in a container at the junkyard I picked it up from since 1993. Car it came from was an 85 so it was only used for 8 years. High mileage for it's age, but low mileage for me!! The trans in my car is getting pretty bad too so it couldn't be better timing. Anyway, excitement aside, reason for posting; I'm going to be scouring all the threads on how to swap transmissions out, as I've never done one, as well as clutch jobs as I figure I may as well put a new clutch in while it's all apart. I'm figuring I'm going to pull the car up on ramps on all four wheels, that should give me a pretty good working space underneath the car. Do I need to remove the flywheel and have it re-surfaced? Is that advisable? My car has 82k on it. Also, should I go through the trouble of cleaning it up and painting it before installing it? Any tips or things to check on beforehand? I have a lot of questions about how things are going to connect, but I figure as I take my trans out I will see. Glad I've FINALLY found one.- 127 replies
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I have an '82 GL 5 speed turbo wagon, 4 x 4, 350,000 miles, same tranny. It worked great 2 days ago, except the clutch acted like maybe a bad throw-out bearing because the clutch/car would shake a little when starting out in first gear. That problem has been going on for 2 years. It has not impcted driving. So I drove it into the garage 2 nights ago. This morning it starts right up then they symptoms get wierd: I can't move the car, like something is holding onto the tranny or wheels. 1. Stick shift "feels" normal and seems to move into each gear, stopped in the garage. 2. If in nuetral and you let the clutch out, car acts like it is in a fwd gear (1 or 2),.. but stick is in nuetral position 3. I put it in reverse and it won't move, like tranyy is saying reverse, but something else is preventing that. 4. Try to start car with clutch out, but in nuetral position,.. no go. IT wont start, acts like something is holding engine back, but starter will turn engine. 5. I looked under car for obvious linkage issue and I dont see any. 6. Hand brake is off and verified rear wheels free. Has throw-out bearing failure casued this? Internal transmission failure? differential? is there a front differential, I thought that was just the tranny. Help!
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Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for. -
Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.
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My clutch seems to be disengaging lower and lower to the floor every day. System has been bled (several times) New slave cylinder New clutch and bearings Any adjustments I make under the pedal only seem to be temporary. Always reverts very low. I've heard issues reported on other makes and models of the firewall flexing. My firewall IS in fact flexing slightly when I push on clutch pedal. Is there a support bracket that can be modified/replaced in order to correct this? Assuming this is the issue of course. Regards, -
Hi All Have an issue with a clutch in a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback, The pedal the clutch went dead, flat to the floor without any response to push it back. I have read that it sounds like a potential clutch slave cylinder issue. Found the slave cylinder and it seemed like that could be the problem, casket looked old and leaky Got a new clutch slave from local auto parts store, and replaced it. Bled the line for air, took a while to get that done. Started depressing the clutch pedal to build up pressure.....could see it was, with each push of the pedal it was, pushing the clutch fork as expected....it built a little bit of pressure in the pedal. Ultimately built up so much pressure in the slave cylinder it extended the rod that pushes the clutch fork all the way out and rubber gasket started leaking fluid. It never built up enough pressure on the clutch pedal to get it to push back from the floor. Thought maybe the master cylinder to the clutch needed to be replaced. Replaced it along with the hose that runs to the clutch slave. Refilled and bled that system (air seems to be removed completely from what I can see). Ended up with the same issue. To much pressure in the clutch slave cylinder and not enough pressure to make the pedal more then an inch or two. Tried to make sure the fork linkage that connects the master cylinder to the clutch pedal looks the same.....also tried to adjust it....same issue each time. The clutch fork that extends down into the trasmission seems pretty solid, there is a little wiggle to it but it does not push by hand....only when the little rod from the clutch slave pushes it. Any ideas? Thanks for any input. -
2000 Impreza outback sport - Manual Transmission 209k miles Hello all - It has been a while since I have been on here, but I know this message board is full of knowledge, and I'm having some trouble diagnosing a speed dependent clicking noise in the drive train somewhere. The clicking started before my last major project, in which i replaced: - All 4 Struts - Steering Rack - Both Tie rod ends - Rebuilt power steering pump - Both Front Axles - Both lower control arm ball joints - 4 New Tires - Transmission fluid (prior to this project, but still recently) Many may immediately jump to CV joint, but noticed the wear from the old damaged ones, and that is no longer noticable with the new axles, so i have ruled those out. The noise is speed dependent, i can feel the clicking in the shift knob, and when the clutch pedal is partially depressed, the noise is significantly louder.it is a relatively fast click - i think it is similar to the sound made when two wheels are off the ground, and you rotate the wheel one direction, and you hear the clicking from the differential. Seems to be speed dependent only and can be heard in any gear. My thoughts are: - Clutch - would a broken finger from the pressure plate cause such a clicking? - Differential - Transmission any help would be greatly appreciated. I do need to drive the car across the country in less than 5 days. -
OK I am going to ask for help and see what happens? My 88 dl 2wd wagon w/ 200k plus miles is giving me clutch fits! A couple years ago I replaced a broken clutch cable, I thought at the time the parts house (Auto Zone or Oreillys/schmucks) had given me the wrong cable as the horseshoe clip to hold cable in bracket did not fit the new cable. I was able to make the cable work for awhile but now when i adjust the cable to where I can get car into reverse and shift, the adjustment does not hold. Lasts maybe an hour of driving and must be adjusted again?? I am determined to keep this car on the road as I feel it is just reaching its prime and I want to do my part to aid OPEC in world domination. My plan is to order a new correct cable- getting one from a dealer is too costly, trying to find a 2wd Subi in an OREGON u-pull it is like looking for UNICORNS OR HONEST POLITICIANS. Does anybody have advice? Once I replace the cable I am prepared to do the clutch and all hardware if not shifting happily? Thanks -
So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
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'87 s/r and d/r clutch question
BoostedBoxer421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i have an '87 GL Turbo (5-speed s/r) and an '87 RX Turbo (5-speed d/r) on my GL clutch, it seems like the clutch starts to disengage as soon as you begin to press pedal, and is fully disengaged once its at floor (about 6-7 inches of travel).. and my RX clutch doesnt start to disengage until about 2 inches from floor and is fully disengaged once pedal is on floor (only 2 inches of travel) so im really just wondering if my GL has worn out clutch or if the RX is adjusted differently?? ive only ever driven my GL, so i dont have much experience with how these clutches are supposed to be "normally", or if they differ between the s/r and d/r turbo transmission -
Hi folks, New member here. Joined the other day in order to get started on research for a clutch replacement in my '99 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L (228,000 miles---purchased at 198,000). I've got a gearhead friend helping me with the repair in 3 weeks, and doing all the reading and Youtubing I can in the meantime. Seems like we'll be able to pull this off. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a clutch kit, but had a question about non-OEM kit quality. I was planning to just pick up the Exedy OEM kit (KSB04): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2392652&cc=1389405 However, a friend said it's very worthwhile to go ahead and grab a kit that contains a worn snout sleeve---also called PDM sleeves. I checked out the video here which is very good for describing the issue and its solution: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-transmission-housing-repair-kit/ Now, the sleeves on their own are pretty pricey at some suppliers, ballpark $150. That's on top of a clutch kit, which would be $140 or $150 for OEM at Ebay or Rock Auto (link above). On the other hand, there are some kits that include the sleeve, and my friend indicated that these are significantly cheaper in part because it's a different method of fabrication. Specifically, I'm looking at AMS Automotive part 15004R. Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1524032&cc=1389405 Questions: 1. Should I be overly concerned about the drastic difference between the price of fancy Six Star sleeves sold by specialty suppliers, and the ones included in kits like the AMS kit I linked above? 2. How is the quality of AMS clutch kits? They advertise "rigorous OEM spec" - but does that mean I'm guaranteed the same quality as an OEM Exedy kit? If there's any doubt, I would prefer to go with Exedy. I don't know where AMS kits are manufactured. Should I worry about this? I don't want this to give out after another 20,000 miles! Thank you. I'm happy to answer any follow-up questions if any of this is unclear. This will be my first clutch replacement so I'm learning a lot as I go. -
so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
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So I have a 1989 GL hatchback with 4x4 D/R 4 speed high low. This is an EA81 with 21 splines. I'm currently on rock auto looking for the correct clutch kit and there are a lot of strange options and I want to make sure I am getting the right one. The only ones listed with 21 splines say fwd? For some reason they are listing 24 spline count for the 4x4's? is this just ea82 stuff? http://www.rockauto.com/ Also I see a few listed under autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1989-Subaru-GL/Clutch-Set/_/N-ihl1aZ6o243 I'd like to order from rock auto because I have a credit with them I would like to use up. If anyone could help I would appreciate it, thanks.
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What I have is a 2001 legacy sedan and what I need is a good clutch and timing belt kit. My car has 113xxx on her and the clutch is on her way out and while I have the engine out I want to do the timing belt and everything because it was last done at 50,000 so I figured on just doing everything at once so I don't have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles. But what I want to find out is what is a good clutch but nothing to expensive, also what is a good timing belt kit Thanks, Luke -
So, I suspect the throwout bearing might be going as it is hard to downshift from 4th to 3rd unless the rpms and speed is just right - this has been going on for about 3000+miles. Now, I have an oil leak (getting under car in a minute to figure that out) and all of a sudden car is making this high pitch whistle/whine noise, but only in 4th, and only when accelerating, if I let off the gas for a 1/4 second noise goes away, comes back when I push the gas. no noise at high rpms in other gears or neutral. Is this the TO bearing, or a transmission issue? I always appreciate the help from USMB. Thanks folks! -
Hey guys, Does anyone have a good resource on clutch replacement. mine went out yesterday and im looking for some good info. much appreciated!
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Hi All--- I'll be pulling the engine from my 2003 Forester (next week. I hope) to address a number of issues. I'm trying to put together a parts list so I don't have to waste time chasing stuff down once it's out. Does anyone have a list of parts I'll need and/or any suggestions about what else I'd be smart to do "while I'm at it." Dennis111 had a good write-up on his HG replacement, with pics on Pbucket. Thanks, Dennis Thanks, JW -
Hey all, The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"... I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise). The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other?? Thanks, Greg -
I'm considering buying a 1994 WRX 5 spd transmission for a swap project, but I'm having a HUGE amount of difficulty finding out anything about it. It is JDM and from a RHD vehicle. I'm looking for gear ratio (although I'm guessing it's 3.90), I'm wondering what sort clutch it accepts ( Pull style, push style, hydraulically activated or cable) Also, is there any reason I might avoid this transmission?? Any help, of info will be greatly appreciated. -
OK so i have a 1992 subaru loyale 5sp w/4wd and the clutch is having issues and i have ordered a new clutch, my problem is i think i ordered a clutch for a 2wd and not a 4wd, so will it work in it or did i just screw up and need to return it after i get it?
