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  1. So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?
  2. G'day all, I'm hoping someone here will be able to help me out. I've just noticed a "second" seal on the back of an EA81 crankshaft. There's the usual one then between the bolt holes and the flywheel centring ridge is an orange seal. My local parts joint only have one number for the EA81 rear main seal. Do I need to replace this orange seal or just leave it? It's not leaking but while I'm in there it's usually worth doing. Any insight or thoughts on this appreciated. Regards Bennie
  3. I have an ea81 I know for a fact the vacuum advance on my distributor is bad. The problem is I cannot find a suitable vacuum advance to replace my current one while i send it out for rebuild(have to get to work) So whats the DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ADVANCES FOR MANUAL AND AUTOMATIC? also is there a difference between advances with california emissions and without? They're no advances available for my 83 GL brat but I believe a 83 accord will work but the only one i can find is for an auto trans and the brat is 4 speedmanual and also my daily driver til my machinist finishes retrofitting my other subarus control arms
  4. This is my sedan what do ya think? i will more pictures up later today.... This is nikki, shes a little rough around the edges but overall shes not too bad A little surface rust never hurt anyone eat sleep shift Chocolate brown interior <3 More interior Them carpets be lookin great Just broke 210K Shes still gettin warmed up And here she is sitting at the gas station more photos of the engine bay and all that fun stuff will be posted later, i got some questions to go along with them
  5. Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap
  6. My cluster only has a speedometer and the subaru car HUD (4wd, parking brake, etc). I kind of wish I had a tachometer. If anyone had a spare cluster like this, I'm willing to buy it. Anyone know if it's plug and play? Would it be easier to buy an aftermarket tach gauge to stick somewhere on the dash? Thanks
  7. New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
  8. I had advertised these in the parts forum as 13" wheels, but today I discovered they're actually 14" wheels: I know there are issues with ea81 13" wheels hitting the brake caliper on ea82 models, but would there be any clearance issues using a 14" steel wheel (I think they might have been for an XT coupe) on an ea81 car?
  9. Ever wonder what the plaque that says "this vehicle equipped for the installation of optional A/C" means? Driving yourself crazy looking for why your fan has no power and can't find the relay? Well here's part of it. First off, unless you have "Subaru" A/C.....you don't have a relay. Later EA81 Blower circuits are setup with a connector, that provides for the Non-a/c fan circuit, to be bypassed......and run through a new relay.......bringing power for the blower fan through a single 20 amp glass fuse taped up in the harness. I believe this leaves the original blower circuit extra electrical capacity to power the compresor clutch, fan relays and pressure switches,etc.... Here is a pic of the jumper that is in the setup from the factory on non-a/c cars. This connector is up under the dash, right below the column, coming out of the big bundle on it's own 20" or so pigtail. The glass fuse is wrapped up just a bit closer to the fuse box. And Here is what the circuit looks like after Dealer installed Genuine subaru A/C setups And here's the thread that made me tear apart 2 dashes trying to find this sucker cause it was driving me nuts.......Never had to look for an EA81 blower relay before http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140151-brat-blower-motor-relayproblem-solved/
  10. see my build thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137408-weber-carb-on-an-ea81-in-a-subaru-standard/ so I got a new ea81, a weber carb and all the other pieces. got the correct adapter plate. put the hitatchi throttle cable stay on the weber carb. got a manual choke pull. cleaned the carb and all seems to be functioning. it came off of a small 4-cyl datsun truck. but I can't figure out how to run the throttle cable. it makes no sense. I got this little $25 adapter piece from carbs unlimited in auburn, but no clue where it goes to make the cable work. plus a few other tiny issues I'd like to get sorted out. I'll trade beer and some cash for someone to come show me what's up and get the thing running. I've got a garage and all the tools... but I normally work on MUCH smaller engines (vintage vespas), so all of this is very foreign to me. I'm free this weekend -- preferably sunday afternoon (june 2nd 2013)
  11. So I just had my engine pulled out of my '83 Brat to replace the rear-main seal. Turns out it didn't even have a rear-main seal. Anyways I also found out that the entire EGR system has been plugged. The EA81 in this car is not original so I was wondering if Brats had an EGR system in 1983. If they did, then my engine has been swapped illegally and won't pass inspection; however, if they didn't, then plugging up the EGR system makes sense and is legal. I need to know fast, so any information would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Does anybody know if the 32/36 DGEV model Carburetor from Weber Carbs is the only model that would be compatible with the EA81 engine? Also, are weber carbs recommended? What do you all think?
  13. In the works of finishing swapping the EA82 intake on an EA81 Brat. The intake came with the EGR deleted (a nice plate with gasket covering it). What are the issues with deleting it? The issue is also the EGR pipe isn't exactly lining up, its sitting a bit higher. Should we just get a cap and cap off the EGR pipe? I did attempt to search but seeing as EGR is too short of a word to search for I did not get much. If anyone has an useful links that would be awesome.
  14. Closed thanks for all the ideas and help
  15. How accessible are the Thermostat and the temperature sensor in the EA81 engine? Would they be really easy to replace, or would you have to take a bunch of stuff apart?
  16. I know it's been asked before, and I've read the responses, but I'm still at a loss. My 83 Brat has an intermittent problem of stumbling upon acceleration. It occurs whether the car is warm or cold. It seems to stumble only with slow acceleration and if I step on it, it surges and opens up, feels smooth. Doesn't seem to lack power overall and idles decently enough once it's warmed up. Stock Hitachi carb. So far, in attempt to fix this issue and just because it needed it, I have replaced both fuel filters, air filter, spark plug wires, spark plugs(with new NGK, properly gapped), new distributor, put a bunch of heet and seafoam through it to clean out any gunk or water and checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses (no change in idle speed noted). I also only run 89 octane or higher fuel. Im thinking it could be a partially clogged jet in the carb. Maybe some other jet opens up with more throttle and thats why it only occurs at low throttle. I haven't opened up a hitachi, but I would be willing to rebuild it if that would help. And no, I'm not getting a Weber. I've gotten 31 mpg with the Hitachi properly tuned. Any advice would be appreciated. Let me know if more info is needed. Thanks yall.
  17. So I took my little sube to a Mud competion here in Oregon this weekend. Pretty good time. Super gnarly course, I opted out of certain obstacles but not many. Here is the first 2 videos on youtube. Other to be loaded and lots of other people were filming and sadi they would eb posting too so more to come. I sustained almost all the damage of the run on this first drop in! Twisted the driveline and ripped carrier out of its rubber but it all held for the rest of the run. This was the second series of holes. I had tettered in and out of this one twice before this video starts. Dual ebrakes working great to get me out and around when the tires are in the air! This is were the crowd starts to get behind me instead of ridiculing me. Kinda brutal and short, but enjoy.
  18. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  19. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  20. My 82 Brat has been acting up in the cold weather. The voltage needle will read correctly sometimes and everything is fine as far as power output. Sometimes, however, when I start the car, the needle is at about 9v once running, and it obviously isn't charging. It drops off the scale when I turn on the lights, the car must be running soley off the battery, because the lights are very dim and the wipers swipe really slow. If I drive it around enough, the needle will pop back up and the lights will brighten. I think it has to do with engine temperature perhaps, because turning it off and restarting does not make it work correctly, but it seems like the low battery light will blink on, then it starts to charge. I don't know if that is a symptom or a cause, perhaps the light coming on "kicks" something on, or perhaps the light just comes on once the connection finally gets enough continuity. I did notice some corrosion on my battery terminals, so that is where I'm going to start, I'll probably replace the batter (it's pretty old) and clean up the contacts to start. I had the alternator tested when it was working correctly and it tested fine, so I don't think I need to change it out. Any other suggestions on this issue?
  21. i have a 1984 ea81 Brat with a 5 speed D/R transmission swap (removal of 4speed auto). the CV axles are going out which axles should i purchases? EA81 or EA82? The Subframe is original EA81, but the transmission is EA82.
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