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Found 180 results

  1. Hello Working on my '85 go 1800 wagon. I've been having some trouble with ignition for a while and I'm thinking it was a failing ignition module that has now totally died. I found a disty in a scrap yard and had it shipped. As far as I can tell it also has a bad module. Both distys have pickup coils that have good resistance so I don't think they are the problem. I've found the module at various sites and stores but the cheapest I've found was over $160, which seems like a lot, especially if this is going to be a recurring thing (which I read on another post on here that it likely is). My first thought was "points are cheap and easy" but quickly found out that would take more fabrication skills than I have. So my next thought is, could I wire in an ignition module from a different vehicle and just mount it near the disty? I've found other modules for Honda and other makes that are much much less expensive, but I don't think they would fit inside. Would this work? It's basically just a switch, right? Thanks in advance!!
  2. Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
  3. Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate.
  4. Hello, I need to pass emissions in California with my 1994 Loyale. When I took it in to get tested it passed everything except for the visual of the EGR system. The tech said that when he pushed the diaphragm on the EGR valve, the car should stumble and/or die, but it didn't, which he said was a symptom of clogged EGR passages. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it, the stem moves well, even when on the car and I increase throttle to 2500 rpms. The carbon deposits didn't look too bad. I tried to clean the passages with a speedometer cable and some carb cleaner. I found that I couldn't get it around some of the bends in the passages. I knocked some carbon loose and vacuumed it up and tried blowing air down the passages. When I reinstalled the valve again, the car still wouldn't change its idle when I pushed the diaphragm in to open the valve. In fact the car ran fine without the EGR valve on (it was louder since it was blowing exhaust gases out of the lower hole). The EGR valve moves when applying vacuum and holds it when I keep the vaccum applied, so it doesn't leak when it is closed and is not seized. Also, the vacuum hoses don't seem to have a leak, since it opens at higher RPMs. I also have a 35ohm resistor mounted on the purge valve solenoid instead of the old stuck solenoid in order to clear the CE light. Would this effect the car and keep it from dying when pushing the EGR valve diaphragm? Or is it a completely different system? The EGR solenoid is brand new. What do you recommend that I do? Is the tech right? Are the EGR passages clogged? How do I get at them? I unscrewed the flare nuts that hold the 90º EGR pipe in place, but seemingly couldn't remove it without taking the intake manifold off. Also, I remember cleaning that pipe 10K miles ago when I did the head gaskets, so I imagine it is other passages? Does anyone have a diagram of how the passages run? Any other tests I can do? Many thanks!
  5. I have an 86' Gl-10 4x4 that has a blown headgasket and seized engine, I want to get the thing up and running again because I love driving it, but I also wanted to look at doing an EJ swap instead, what type of Ej is going to be the most straightforward for the swap, I want to keep my 5 speed in it, although I know I'll have to swap out the 4x4 hi/lo 5spd trans for a newer awd manual trans, what kind of tips and advice can you all offer? Thanks for whatever help I get!
  6. I was wondering if anyone had found a direct-replacement for the parking lamp bulb socket on the EA82 chassis. Nearly every one I've laid eyes on is brittle, broken and turning to dust. They're getting to the point where they don't even hold the bulb inside the lamp properly and I've resorted to taping the socket to the back side of the lamp. I haven't pulled up the OEM part number yet (assuming it's obsolete, based on the failure rate I'm seeing in the field) and RockAuto doesn't list a direct replacement. So, what have you folks been doing about these bulb sockets?
  7. A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.
  8. Has anyone had any experience chasing water leaks into the hatch area of their EA82 3-door coupes? I have a feeling it's coming from the taillamps/trim panel, but I suppose it could be coming from the hatch itself too. Anyone solve this problem? I've got two coupes and they both enjoy collecting water in their smuggler's hatches.
  9. Zeekyal

    My 86 gl wagon (subvee)

    I got this 86 gl wagon for a hunting offroad rig with a 5 speed dual range and 208k miles for just $600 bone stock and running and driving just fine Over the past 4 months I've done tune up and other basic repairs and some upgrades first was 6 lug conversion to get some bigger tires to fish the hunting season then did weber 32/36 and just this past week did my own 2 inch lift with subframe drop and got some brand new 27 8.50 14 achilles desert xmt thing is a beast now love this thing Would post pics but not sure how to get pics on phone to only 2MB
  10. Hello everybody! First time Subaru owner here. I just picked up an 1986 XT Turbo 4x4 complete with the digital dash! Aside from one patch of floor pan rust and the typical rust on the front left subframe, the underbody is pretty minty. Car is straight with the exception of some damage in the front right corner. I still need to figure out fixing the popup on that side, but I just ordered the last new passenger side fender in North America! (Sorry! ) Aside from the dashboard being mincemeat the interior is pretty mint too, not a single rip in the seats, original floor mats, fully functioning dashboard. Radio is dead but I'll take a look at it. Only major problem with the car is she has a wee bit of rod knock and she hates warm starts. She also doesn't like idling after letting off the throttle too quick. My bets are either the IAC or the coolant temp sensor. Anyway, I'm not entirely sure what I want to do with her yet but my ultimate goal is a rotary swap. However since that would be very very expensive, right now I'm heavily considering a B swap! But that's for another post . Unlike many (seemingly) of the other new XT owners, this will absolutely not be a rally car but instead a clean street car. It may be some years before the word "clean" can apply but who knows!
  11. Brianmitchtay

    Fan Speeds

    Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
  12. Somewhere along the road from Alaska to Utah one of the boots of my front right CV axle blew a hole and I still haven't dealt with it properly, the axle is getting pretty noisy now. I browsed the forums here pretty thoroughly and compared what I read to the FSM Diagrams, then pulled the trigger on this axle from Rockauto which they have listed as fitting a front right 4wd MT Fuel Injected 1987 GL with my SOHC engine. After getting the axle in the mail today though I counted the splines and realized it has 25, not the 23 the manual says I'll need. So I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with this so I can know whether or not the axle will fit before I tear the car apart and count the splines on the old one?
  13. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  14. So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
  15. So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.
  16. I have a 1987 GL Coupe that I just picked up. It is running 'ok', some hesitation and a little surging. Did a basic tune up and oil and coolant (the shop had put in two quarts of oil too much and I drained it, some had dripped on the cat I think from the rear seal but stopped). Been driving it for about 2 weeks to work it out and yesterday I checked the coolant and it was down a quart and the reservoir was empty. I had put a can of conditioner in it after the change so I just filled it up and have taken about 4 trips around town to work and back and I'm getting a coolant smell every once in a while and just a wisp of steam from under the carb between the spare and the air cleaner. There as a tiny pool pf coolant on top of the block, maybe 1 tablespoon. It has a 1.8 OHC with 100k on it and otherwise seems ok. What should I be checking? Where might this be coming from? I've not seen this before in any of my EA-82's. Any help is appreciated.
  17. Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)
  18. I bought an 87 GL-10 turbo with a blown head gasket recently. I tore the engine down to find both the heads have cracked and the cylinder bores are rusted and have scarred. I've been thinking about getting the cylinders rebored, but I don't know where I could find some oversized pistons. Does anyone know where I could look? Or is there a better alternative I should look at?
  19. I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
  20. The next project I intend to tackle on the DL is installing new timing belts. I've watched a few videos of the process, but they all seem to have the motor out of the car. Any tips, hints or tricks of the trade you'd care to share would be greatly appreciated.
  21. Hello, I just installed a VDO vac/Boost combo gauge in my gl10 turbo. Measured at the plenum (after Throttle Body): -20 inHg at idle (looks good) ~4psi at wide open. (low?) Measured at turbo outlet 0 inHG at idle ~8psi at wide open. So i have two questions, but they relate to one another. I get with the throttle plate closed (idle) i shouldn't see almost any vacuum at the turbo outlet. However how come i don't see vacuum when i press on the accel and i only see when boost starts to build? Shouldn't the (negative) pressure wave travel down the intake? Or is the flow rate too low to see a difference? That would explain the lower boost numbers, however what number is more accurate when determining performance; why do most boost gauges measure from the wastegate if those numbers don't take vacuum into account? And which is more accurate? Does my engine see "8 psi of boost" (the actual boost the turbo puts out) or "4 psi of boost" (the actual amount of boost minus the residual vacuum) Or is my turbo not flowing enough compressed air? Color me confused.
  22. Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
  23. Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
  24. I just replaced timing belts and did my water pump too. I put water pump rtv on both sides of thegasket. Got the bolts snug till it ooZed the waited an hour then snugged them down. I took just a scraper to clean the old stuff off. I started the car up and i noticed it leaking. This had been days after I installed the new water pump before I started the car. Should I take the water pump off and get a new seal? The seal that came with the pump looks really thin and cheap too I noticed. Any advice??
  25. Hi there Subaru lovers of all kind lol. I have had my Subaru since I was about 2 years of age. It has stayed in the family for years. I would like to put an sjr lift in it but I know you have to do some fabrications and such. I was wondering if there was a professional shop that could install the kit properly or anyone that would like to do it on the side. I would like to see past work of course. This car is very sentimental to me. It's an 1989 GL with the high low gear box. I'm currently putting my rebuilt ea motor in it as we speak. If anyone can help me out I've been searching for a long time. My dad also has one that needs to be fixed. I think he has the 4 inch lift in it now.
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