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Showing results for tags 'EA82'.
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So...I've been noticing this noise coming from the bay when I start the car. it's pretty loud from a cold start then tends to die down once the engine warms up. it kind of cycles between loud and quiet not really sure what's up, but I uploaded a video to youtube so you can get a better idea of the noise i am hearing and where it's coming from. no idea on oil pressure as my gauge is non-functioning and from what I hear are unreliable anyway. Might be time to re-seal the oil pump.... here is the video. cheers, TJ
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retorquing of head bolt in an EA82?
StephenJ101 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Per the service manual for the EA82 engine, it states to retorque the head bolts after the engine has warmed and cooled after new head gaskets are installed. My question is has there been a new and improved / effective way to torque the bolts on this EA82 engine during the initial installation so the retorquing is no longer necessary? I'm hoping there is experience and success by torquing the head bolts initially therefore, disassembly to retorque is not required. Any suggestions and insight is appreciated. Thank you SJ -
retorquing of head bolt in an EA82?
StephenJ101 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Per the service manual for the EA82 engine, it states to retorque the head bolts after the engine has warmed and cooled after new gaskets are installed. My question is has there been a new and improved / effective way to torque the bolts during the initial installation so the retorquing is no longer necessary? I'm hoping there is experience and success by torquing the head bolts initially therefore, disassembly to retorque is not required. Any suggestions and insight is appreciated. Thank you SJ -
I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either. -
I am looking for the torque spec settings for bolts in the EA82 engine. I have a 1992 Subaru Loyale that i am replacing leaky seals and gaskets. also replacing the timing belts and checking / adjusting the valve / cam clearances. is there a sheet or file that has all the various bolt torque specs used in this car / engine. Thank you, SJ
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I have a 1980 BRAT with the stock EA71 engine and 4spd trans with stock carb. For now I am looking at just swapping to a EA82 d/r 5 speed an rear diff someday im looking to swap to an EJ22 but I can't find information on if that will even work in my year I am only seeing EJ swaps in 2nd gen BRATs The main thing I am looking for currently is will a EA82 d/r 5 speed fit the engine or will I need adapter plates and different bell housings and what am i looking at for swapping in the rear EA82 diff or should I buy a newer BRAT if I want to change things -
I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
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I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.
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So I have an old clapped out 1.6l and was wondering what would happen if it is even possible to slap a 1.8l crank into the 1.6l block mix matching parts as necessary to make it fit. would it even start, would it have more or less comp, would it be stroked?
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Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
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Hello, new to the site and hope y'all can help me. I just purchased a dual range 86 Subaru GL for a price I couldn't turn down. Engine idles like a dream, but once rpm's start rising it starts to stumble upon itself causing it to not go over 30 mph. New fuel pump, fuel filter, previous owner said he rebuilt carb. Any tips or ideas on what might be causing problems? Timing? Read something about needle valve in carb clogged possible cause. Any help would be great thanks. Mike 1986 Subaru GL 1999 Subaru Impreza 2002 Subaru Outback -
I'm swapping the whole drivetrain out of my loyale and wanted to lift it while I'm there. It's my dally so I was thinking a 4" AA lift, might go with a 6" depending on how much harder they are that a 4". Never lifted a Subaru before but I know you have to extend the steering knuckle, radiator hoses, and brake lines but is that all with the 4"? Is there more to fabricate with a 6" or are they about the same? I also found a 84 GL yesterday for free and its got a d/r tranny so I wanted to make it a trail and hunting rig. Mostly swamp or snow around here so I'd like to make it water crossing ready, maybe side by side tracks, big o lift, welded diff, ext. Will it's little 1.6 and 4mt be able to handle that though? I know the 4speeds are considered crap but this thing will pretty much live in low range and crawl around. Also how high can I lift an ea81 with stock axles? What all do I have to extend and disconnect.
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Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
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So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.
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So I've got a 92 loyale with a rebuilt 1.8 and the stock 3AT tranny pb4wd. The engine seems fine other than some valve chatter I've been to lazy to fix but the 3at is getting sketchy. It's left me stranded a few times and it gets -60 here so no good. I'd love do drop in a 5 speed d/r but haven't found one yet and frost is on the ground so I'm down to what's at the landfill. I can pull whatever parts from a 90s? Legacy sedan, 91 loyale with a sloppy 5speed, or the only one that's in any remotely decent shape; a 84 GL with a 4speed or MAYBE a 5 speed not sure as I didn't get a chance to mess with it much. So is it feasible to swap out the 3at for a ea81 4 or 5 speed? So fare on here I haven't found a thread with much on the subject. I know the 4speed isn't as good as an ea82 5speed but the 5speed in the 91 loyale is very sloppy and goes into gear with out the clutch so I'm assuming it's toast. Should I just deal with the 3at till I can find a good 5speed d/r? Swap in the questionable 5speed from the 91? Try to use the ea81 tranny? I also plan to do a 4" lift and maybe a EJ engine swap if that matters.
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So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
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This thread on lock cylinder interchangeability has gotten me thinking. I'm on the hunt for an EA82 (Specifically an '88 or '89 GL), and have not had luck finding the right one. I've been thinking about gathering parts so when I do get one, I can easily swap out parts and pieces without having to hunt for them or wait for shipping. Ultimately, I would like to add a killswitch (or three) and have the locks be rekeyed to help with security. Can I go the junkyard, take a set of locks off of any EA82 wagon, have them rekeyed at a locksmiths, and have everything swap over really easily? Is there a better way to do this? Is there anything else you do to help with security? Let me know your thoughts!
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So on my way home from work about an hour or so and when I got on the brakes suddenly there was tons of banging coming from my left front. Thankfully I was only like a block away so I just put my hazards on and crept home. I put it up and took the wheel off and the whole hub and brake could be rotated forward (handbrake was on) Unfortunately it was too dark to see or do anything so I had to put it back together for the night. I'll take another look in the morning but I just wanted to get some thoughts and opinions since I dont know if it is the hub or maybe the brake assembly or something else. Its a 85 gl wagon, 5sp dual range if it helps/matters, and thanks in advance for any help
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The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time. -
As the title says, I'm curious as to what rim/tire combinations are available if you're running a stock height Loyale. I've read the Official 6-Lug Re-Drill Thread, but most of the posts on there seem to be related to cars with lifts. Pictures would be very appreciated! Thank you! -
Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
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I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap... -
hey everyone, I recently found a couple cracked vac lines on my charcoal cannister while sitting at work the other day, so I decided to just remove it since I don't have EGR or any other smog type stuff. after removing the cannister ive noticed my fuel tank pressurizes more than normal and i was wondering if there was a return line to the tank that i should put a check valve on or hook up somewhere else??? i have an 89 Loyale turbo thats moderately modified -dual range swap (was 4eat) -VF11 turbo -intercooler -MAF relocation -Delta street cams (260*) -3rd gen heads w/mild porting thanks for any help!!
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How does one change a fuel filter (not the one under the hood) in a 87 subi 3door?
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Hello all, First off I've got a 1990 loyale, base ea82 EFI, 5 speed Sooooooooo about 3 months ago I notice a pretty dramatic drop in my fuel economy 30-32mpg down to 18-20mpg. Around the same time my subie started dying around the same spot on my commute home (13min into my 18min commute). When it died I'd here a clicking sound and poof! engine off. While rolling I press in the clutch, turn it over, it starts and I'm on my way. Well yesterday I drive to church and after service I go to start my car and I can't get it to fire. It turns over, and every now and again a few cylinders will light but its only a few sputters and gone. I popped off a fuel line and turned it over and it looks like the fuel pump is happy. Tonight I'll pull the plugs and see if I can get a couple clues as to what is going on but I'm pretty stumped..... The plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, battery, and timing belts are all pretty new (<9 months). Any ideas??? I kinda wonder about the MAF but I don't think that would come into play until after the vehicle is warmed and the ECU kicks in. Thanks! -K
