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Found 190 results

  1. I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.
  2. Divisible_By_0

    What if? 1.6l

    So I have an old clapped out 1.6l and was wondering what would happen if it is even possible to slap a 1.8l crank into the 1.6l block mix matching parts as necessary to make it fit. would it even start, would it have more or less comp, would it be stroked?
  3. haydenmtaylor

    EA82 Timing

    Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
  4. Hello, new to the site and hope y'all can help me. I just purchased a dual range 86 Subaru GL for a price I couldn't turn down. Engine idles like a dream, but once rpm's start rising it starts to stumble upon itself causing it to not go over 30 mph. New fuel pump, fuel filter, previous owner said he rebuilt carb. Any tips or ideas on what might be causing problems? Timing? Read something about needle valve in carb clogged possible cause. Any help would be great thanks. Mike 1986 Subaru GL 1999 Subaru Impreza 2002 Subaru Outback
  5. So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.
  6. Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
  7. So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
  8. This thread on lock cylinder interchangeability has gotten me thinking. I'm on the hunt for an EA82 (Specifically an '88 or '89 GL), and have not had luck finding the right one. I've been thinking about gathering parts so when I do get one, I can easily swap out parts and pieces without having to hunt for them or wait for shipping. Ultimately, I would like to add a killswitch (or three) and have the locks be rekeyed to help with security. Can I go the junkyard, take a set of locks off of any EA82 wagon, have them rekeyed at a locksmiths, and have everything swap over really easily? Is there a better way to do this? Is there anything else you do to help with security? Let me know your thoughts!
  9. I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC
  10. As the title says, I'm curious as to what rim/tire combinations are available if you're running a stock height Loyale. I've read the Official 6-Lug Re-Drill Thread, but most of the posts on there seem to be related to cars with lifts. Pictures would be very appreciated! Thank you!
  11. I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
  12. The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time.
  13. Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
  14. I have some six lug hubs and drums on wrecked 84 gl. Will both the hubs and drums switch over to a 90 loyal? Thanks!
  15. I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap...
  16. Hello all, First off I've got a 1990 loyale, base ea82 EFI, 5 speed Sooooooooo about 3 months ago I notice a pretty dramatic drop in my fuel economy 30-32mpg down to 18-20mpg. Around the same time my subie started dying around the same spot on my commute home (13min into my 18min commute). When it died I'd here a clicking sound and poof! engine off. While rolling I press in the clutch, turn it over, it starts and I'm on my way. Well yesterday I drive to church and after service I go to start my car and I can't get it to fire. It turns over, and every now and again a few cylinders will light but its only a few sputters and gone. I popped off a fuel line and turned it over and it looks like the fuel pump is happy. Tonight I'll pull the plugs and see if I can get a couple clues as to what is going on but I'm pretty stumped..... The plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, battery, and timing belts are all pretty new (<9 months). Any ideas??? I kinda wonder about the MAF but I don't think that would come into play until after the vehicle is warmed and the ECU kicks in. Thanks! -K
  17. hey everyone, I recently found a couple cracked vac lines on my charcoal cannister while sitting at work the other day, so I decided to just remove it since I don't have EGR or any other smog type stuff. after removing the cannister ive noticed my fuel tank pressurizes more than normal and i was wondering if there was a return line to the tank that i should put a check valve on or hook up somewhere else??? i have an 89 Loyale turbo thats moderately modified -dual range swap (was 4eat) -VF11 turbo -intercooler -MAF relocation -Delta street cams (260*) -3rd gen heads w/mild porting thanks for any help!!
  18. How does one change a fuel filter (not the one under the hood) in a 87 subi 3door?
  19. just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help!
  20. ferp420

    its hammer time again

    Any one going this year I'm dragging my loyale down again this year last year in the forester sucked this year is different for me though instead of runing around trying to get my car together I'm gona run it as is I'm Gona trailer it down throw all my spare parts in the truck and repair as needed and spend my time working on my house right on the edge of the park by soggy lake I can almost see the northern most hammer trails from the house the property touches the park on 3 sides so I can go wheelin right out my front door Im stoke on the loyale for this year with all the porting and custom intake manifold and free flowing exuast the thing is running like a mad dog right now and I've got some new all terains for it and a 2ft light bar It should be fun out there I just have to patch the front bumper I over loaded my trailer and was moving it over logs boards and bumpers and other car parts and I bent the reciver part all up aperently my bumper couldn't handle the 2000lb tongue wait of the unbalanced car hauler being forced over 6x6s it held but it just makes me wounded if its strong enuff for the big winch if I get pinched in somewhere and have to winch at a wiered angle so I'm Gona add some gussets and a safety chain to it just in case and try not to move any more unballenced loaded car trailers and see how it goes my only prep this year is a tire change and a bumper repair Should only be a days work which is good because I only have a few more free days before I leave
  21. Hello everybody! I've recently picked up a 1994 Subaru Loyale for $200 - needed timing belts. I pulled the engine out of the car and did a complete gasket rebuild. While it was apart I noticed parts came out of the camshaft housing/assembly. The parts looked like some sort of oil pressure valve, a spring, a pipe, and a bolt. I did what little research I could and i believed i was able to correctly re-assemble the engine. Eventually got the car running, and I had a horrible ticking sound coming from the drivers side cam housing area. I read that it could be mis-seated rockers and that it could possibly go away with some driving, however mine didn't. engine died while idling and wouldn't start back up. I pulled the engine apart AGAIN only to find that my drivers side cam looks like it was never getting any oil, and seized. What would cause that cam not to get any oil and seize up? I have a new cam and housing ready to go in, but i'd like to make sure I don't have the same problem again. One other thing i noticed is when i pulled the camshaft housing off, oil was coming out of one of the bolt holes in the head. (where a bolt for the cam housing goes into) is this normal? I can post any pictures if anybody feels they would be helpful. just don't have any on this computer at the moment. I greatly appreciate any helpful tips, pointers and advice! I've replaced the following items. - Water pump - Oil pump (OEM straight from subaru) - Timing belts, tensioners and pulley - Full engine gasket set Thanks again!
  22. My 89 Turbo Wagon and I've been experiencing some jumpy idle at start, and then the check engine light has come on. The light dissappears after the car is shut off. I checked and it's a Code 21. So I bought a coolant temp sensor and am wondering if anyone has any experience installing one of these. Thanks y'all!
  23. BoostedBoxer421

    turbo question*

    hey everyone, just a quick question, does the oil in/out of these turbos need pressure to flow (does the turbo pump the oil? or does the engines oil pump supply the flow) same with coolant, i figure the coolant system is always under a certain amount of flow since the pump is always spinning, but does the turbo circulate water or does only the engine circulate it through the turbo? thanks in advance!!
  24. "Could the legends be true?" "Legends dont burn down villages..." Elder Scrolls VI: Pleiades I've got a 1986 Subaru GL-10, I traded an MR2 i got for $500 and $1000 on top of it, This may very well be the only rust free GL-10 in Minnesota, and may be the ONLY GL-10 in MN, there is a red one to be rumored to be in existence here but the rumors are few and far between. Options i have on this car are: Digital Dashboard, Active Ride Height, Trip Computer/Range computer, power windows and locks, sunroof, every option available except leather seats if they were offered. Mechanically it is an EA82T, One of Subaru's first turboed engines. It is unintercooled and the slowest engine ive ever had in my life (runner up is a D15B running on 3cylinders). The transmission is an Automatic 3 speed, which when coupled with the motor makes for a very long trip to 60 mph (16 seconds at 65 degrees going downhill) It sits high but its because this spoob is a massive pain in the wongleflute to lower. I lowered the front 2 inches with Subaru XT struts, which did seem to help the look. The back is dropping 2" on some Eibach replacement coilover struts sized at 9"x2.5" (stock is 11"x2.5") Then i hit the wheels with some 150 grit sandpaper to clean them up, i still have a ways to go. But so far that's where I am now, final product will be 5x100 swapped (GC impreza front suspension, XT6 rear suspension) lowered another 2" on subaru impreza coilovers up front and legacy coils in back. Power will probably come from an EJ family engine, most likely an EJ205 with a STI turbo kit/intake manifold mated to a first gen Legacy 5 speed transmission. So stay tuned guys...
  25. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Ideas on Swaping a Weber Carb on EA82´s

    Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure
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