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Showing results for tags 'EA82'.
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Any one going this year I'm dragging my loyale down again this year last year in the forester sucked this year is different for me though instead of runing around trying to get my car together I'm gona run it as is I'm Gona trailer it down throw all my spare parts in the truck and repair as needed and spend my time working on my house right on the edge of the park by soggy lake I can almost see the northern most hammer trails from the house the property touches the park on 3 sides so I can go wheelin right out my front door Im stoke on the loyale for this year with all the porting and custom intake manifold and free flowing exuast the thing is running like a mad dog right now and I've got some new all terains for it and a 2ft light bar It should be fun out there I just have to patch the front bumper I over loaded my trailer and was moving it over logs boards and bumpers and other car parts and I bent the reciver part all up aperently my bumper couldn't handle the 2000lb tongue wait of the unbalanced car hauler being forced over 6x6s it held but it just makes me wounded if its strong enuff for the big winch if I get pinched in somewhere and have to winch at a wiered angle so I'm Gona add some gussets and a safety chain to it just in case and try not to move any more unballenced loaded car trailers and see how it goes my only prep this year is a tire change and a bumper repair Should only be a days work which is good because I only have a few more free days before I leave
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Hello everybody! I've recently picked up a 1994 Subaru Loyale for $200 - needed timing belts. I pulled the engine out of the car and did a complete gasket rebuild. While it was apart I noticed parts came out of the camshaft housing/assembly. The parts looked like some sort of oil pressure valve, a spring, a pipe, and a bolt. I did what little research I could and i believed i was able to correctly re-assemble the engine. Eventually got the car running, and I had a horrible ticking sound coming from the drivers side cam housing area. I read that it could be mis-seated rockers and that it could possibly go away with some driving, however mine didn't. engine died while idling and wouldn't start back up. I pulled the engine apart AGAIN only to find that my drivers side cam looks like it was never getting any oil, and seized. What would cause that cam not to get any oil and seize up? I have a new cam and housing ready to go in, but i'd like to make sure I don't have the same problem again. One other thing i noticed is when i pulled the camshaft housing off, oil was coming out of one of the bolt holes in the head. (where a bolt for the cam housing goes into) is this normal? I can post any pictures if anybody feels they would be helpful. just don't have any on this computer at the moment. I greatly appreciate any helpful tips, pointers and advice! I've replaced the following items. - Water pump - Oil pump (OEM straight from subaru) - Timing belts, tensioners and pulley - Full engine gasket set Thanks again!
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My 89 Turbo Wagon and I've been experiencing some jumpy idle at start, and then the check engine light has come on. The light dissappears after the car is shut off. I checked and it's a Code 21. So I bought a coolant temp sensor and am wondering if anyone has any experience installing one of these. Thanks y'all!
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just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help! -
hey everyone, just a quick question, does the oil in/out of these turbos need pressure to flow (does the turbo pump the oil? or does the engines oil pump supply the flow) same with coolant, i figure the coolant system is always under a certain amount of flow since the pump is always spinning, but does the turbo circulate water or does only the engine circulate it through the turbo? thanks in advance!!
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Hi, We have a Swiss Station 1987, EA82 with MPFI and 3 speed AT with ca. 130k km. I replaced the timing belts at 80k km, head gaskets and oil seals a couple years ago, radiator, alternator, some brake lines, brake discs and pads. Generally it's a great car, just getting rusty. It consumes oil at approximately 1L per four tanks of fuel. It has been pinging up steep hills for years; a Subaru garage I left it with said they couldn't reproduce a ping and so it's been left that way. It's recently developed a very slow idle in Drive when the choke turns off. So low, that it dies under load with low throttle, like when you try to reverse slowly. Today the engine suddenly cut out at 80 km/h while cruising on level ground. It cranks over strongly, but we couldn't start it again. I towed it home. I suspected the fuel pump. It makes a buzzing noise when the key is turned to "ACC", but I can't remember what it used to sound like when the car worked?! Apart from taking it out (looks like a rusty mess in there!), is there any way to test it from under the hood (bonnet for you UK readers)? Does the fuel just start flowing out of the tank when you take the pump off? Does anyone have any other suggestions for systematically testing systems to find our problem? Does the idle issue give a clue? I'm fine with old electromechanical cars, but don't have the tools or experience with automotive electronics or fuel injection. Thanks, Jeremy -
The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
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So the interior of my GL that I'm restoring smells like a old wet gym sock, IT'S GREAT! But all great things must end and I would like to find a fresh carpet. Thing is, my usually go to places either come up with universal carpet kits or nothing at all and worse yet, tell me my car doesn't exist. So I know someone at some point here must of sourced one before. Has anyone been able to find a pre-molded carpet for a EA82 wagon before? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks! -
So I'm putting the engine in my 1991 loyale back together because some clutz took it apart. It's almost complete but I'm at a loss on what goes here by the alternator by the plug hanging beside it. Any help?
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I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
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when i first got my 89GL wagon it had a cracked windshield, eh 25year old car, what else do you expect, but now that this car is about to see its 5th windshield under my ownership, i think its getting ridiculous, and thats because the windshield that the car came with was a pilkington and not the original, so for all i know its had 5 and going to a 6th in its lifetime (atleast including the original subaru windshield only), it had a pilkington that was cracked when i bought it, autolite was the first one i bought, then pilkington, then solar shade, and now the solar shade just got cracked. they have all been rocks from semis, no i do not tailgate them, infact i avoid them!! the first one was a rock 3 lanes over! i have it on the dash cam, second was the car infront of me bounced a rock from their windshield to mine that came from a semi infront of him (the chances for that to happen)also got it on dashcam, the third that just happened yesterday the semi was in the left lane passing me and i get a thank you by getting a cracked windshield (also taped on my dash cam) tried contacting the company (Sunset Logistics Inc. or also known as Drive4Sunset) to see if i can get them to pay for it because $220 is kinda punishing each time and they keep sending me to a voice machine that leads nowhere, and i doubt the police would do anything, they can care less. what brand of windshield do you guys use and has cracked windshields happen to you? i have a 93 impreza that used to be my daily with a pilkington windshield that has taken 5 rocks and 2 chunks of tires to the windshield and its been perfectly fine, but the first rock that hits my GL always cracks the windshield.. :/
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Well, 2 plus years ago when I took this engine out, apparently I had my head somewhere else, cause looking at my crank IT AIN'T right. So any help here would be greatly appreciated. Apparently I am not allowed to up load pics now will try to add a link, don't know how that is going to go since I am not good at that either..... http://1drv.ms/1FIFSna Tester Looks like it is viewable to me anyway. Anybody see it?? -
Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
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Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
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So the idler bolt pulled the threads out of the block when it came loose, i drilled it out and put a helicoil in but i diddnt notice it was crooked until it was too late and the pressure with the belt on pulled the threads out of the block for the tensioner, both of them so i drilled those out and helicoiled them but putting them back in one broke off in the block... Help I dont know what to do now, can i extract them and put in studs somehow? or is there a way to oversize them even more but still be able to bolt the tensioner back up? and what can i do about the crooked drill/helicoil for the idler? at a loss here. -
After reading all the threads throughout the years, I never broke one of these bolts...until today. One bolt was stuck, used a heap of penetrant and heat to try and get it out, buuuuuut... It's the one on the left. Got the other five out, however now I can't slip the manifold over the broken bolt. What are my options? -
im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
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Hello all. After doing a full engine out reseal and clutch replacement on my 1990 loyale I'm having trouble getting my motor dialed in. It fires up and runs but it's VERY rough at low rpm. The timing is not dead on but pretty close. When I pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3 they look a little sooty but not bad. Cylinder 4 is very sooty/wet and show now signs of spark. Cylinder 2 is sooty and doesn't show much sign of spark. While the motors running I can pull the number 4 wire from the disty and it makes no difference. If I pull the number 2 wire the rpm fluctuates slightly but not much of a change. If i pull wires 1 or 3 the engine dies. ADDITIONAL INFO: After running for a bit the passenger side of the engine is hot to the touch while the driver side is cool. After the engine had been running a while the exhaust was glowing red. (maybe unburned fuel from cylinders 2 and 4??) Here's what I've tried: -Swapping spark plugs -new wires -new coil -new cap and rotor Any ideas? I'm going to the parts store here in spokane to rent a compression tester. but I'm pretty stumped Thanks! -K -
Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!!
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I bought a 91 EA82 with EFI and automatic for my wife and I'm only getting 22mpg. The check engine light comes on after a few miles but runs fine. This mpg seems low. I had an 89 with carb and auto that got 28mpg. I was expecting as good or better with the EFI. Any ideas?
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Hello again, I've now drop my shiny rebuilt ea82 back into my loyale but I've got a concern... I haven't started the engine yet but I noticed that pushing in the clutch does nothing, and it feels pretty loose. If I put the trans in first and push the clutch in I should be able to push the car foward right?? As I understand it the loyale doesn't have a master and slave cylinder its just a cable straight to clutch release lever. I see the lever move but It doesnt feel like it's engaging the pressure plate? Any wisdom would be helpful.... Thanks!
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Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!
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I picked up a 1993 Loyale wagon for 400$, expecting the best from it as i always have... well it just so happens i bought the only subaru that has ever given me problems! Mainly due to the fact that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing and messed alot of things up. looking for some advice and guidance for sure! Ive done head gasket jobs on plenty of my buddies chevys but never on a boxer. ive got a chiltons on the way and wanted to ask if theres anything i should know before ordering parts and diving in? any info would be greatly appreciated. My ultimate goal is to lift it 2' and turn it into an offroad rig. -
Hi all! Im sort of new to this whole thing but here it goes, I have a 1987 subaru gl base with the stock EA82 engine in it. Im 16 and I certainly dont know all that much about cars so Im not sure what could be going on but ill try to explain, I had removed the battery and when I went to put it back in I placed the positive wire to the positive terminal and the black box thats mounted to the coolant tank popped and start to smoke. All three wires that were in it blew in half and now when I go to start it nothing happens. The battery was in correctly im not that naive but im not sure what I need to do. Any suggestions?
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Hellloooo USMB. First off, thanks for all the advice on here. I've been lurking for awhile, probably should have posted something earlier but anyway... like before I bought this flesh-colored wagon. 1987 GL wagon, carbed, Hi Lo tranny and 125,480 miles and lots of...let's call it character so I don't start swearing lol. First mistake-- didn't drive it much, towed it home. Replaced (new parts) water pump (old one dead) timing belts plugs (NGK R) Wires Dist Rotor Battery Has 1/4 or so new gas with a bit of sea foam Used Weber DGAV 32/36 Carb, trans-dapt mounting plate, 130/130 jets. No choke. Doesn't have air filter on it meow. I've also ripped out the interior and cleaned out the critters' collection). Sheesh that was a PITA. It seems that either engine mounts were sheared or the bolts fell off?? One of them doesn't line up. There's a bit of crumple around the hood zone, and no grill. I did some compression tests, and they are loooow. ($25 Harbor Freight tool) I tried to give each cyl 10 cranks, and did each three times. Removed all plugs. Didn't do wet test, from what I've read (source:internet) boxxer engine doesn't give best results for that? I can probably figure it out if y'all think I ought to tho. 3-70, 60, 75 psi 4- 70, 80, 80 psi 1- 80, 60, 70 psi 2- 70, 70, 80 psi This was warm. (I also did the same test cold (like at 40 degrees) and they were all 100-110 psi what gives?? I did procedure same same, maybe there was moisture in there, it had been sitting for awhile?) Also, if I keep cranking, it will keep going 100+, but doesn't jump a whole lot the first crank, 10-20psi. If I let it idle, it will eventually stall out with fouled plugs after 15-20 minutes. With clean plugs, when I run it at 3500 or so rpm for a few minutes (in neutral, it ain't regstrd yet), the plugs look like this--(left to right 1,2,3,4 cylinder) Odd, no? The #2 looks healthy, but the others are blackened. I guess "fluffy" describes it. If it won't start, it has been bc plugs are fouled, and #3 has been wet fouled. This is what I think, but I the stump has been chumped, and I would like your input. 1. The carb needs adjusting. There may be a small vac leak. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference, although I think I can hear a sucking sound when I screw it all the way in (idle screw in = less gas for idle?) 2. The engine needs a rebuild, and the plugs will continue to foul until that is done. Headgaskets came to mind? but the exhaust doesn't smell sweet by any means. It blows out a bit of white exhaust I guess. I have had to fill the coolant, but I figured that was just the cooling system filling in? Something to keep an eye on anyhow. me--> What do you think? Is there any other info I can provide? All input is welcome! I appreciate all your knowledge and have learned a ton lurking. Thanks A Bend, OR (ps hope the images are large enough, they look small in preview...)
