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  1. Hi, We have a Swiss Station 1987, EA82 with MPFI and 3 speed AT with ca. 130k km. I replaced the timing belts at 80k km, head gaskets and oil seals a couple years ago, radiator, alternator, some brake lines, brake discs and pads. Generally it's a great car, just getting rusty. It consumes oil at approximately 1L per four tanks of fuel. It has been pinging up steep hills for years; a Subaru garage I left it with said they couldn't reproduce a ping and so it's been left that way. It's recently developed a very slow idle in Drive when the choke turns off. So low, that it dies under load with low throttle, like when you try to reverse slowly. Today the engine suddenly cut out at 80 km/h while cruising on level ground. It cranks over strongly, but we couldn't start it again. I towed it home. I suspected the fuel pump. It makes a buzzing noise when the key is turned to "ACC", but I can't remember what it used to sound like when the car worked?! Apart from taking it out (looks like a rusty mess in there!), is there any way to test it from under the hood (bonnet for you UK readers)? Does the fuel just start flowing out of the tank when you take the pump off? Does anyone have any other suggestions for systematically testing systems to find our problem? Does the idle issue give a clue? I'm fine with old electromechanical cars, but don't have the tools or experience with automotive electronics or fuel injection. Thanks, Jeremy
  2. Suspension Improvements For the third Gen Subaru Leone (also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale, Vortex and even as Isuzu Gemminett II, depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.) However, since the Second Gen Subaru Leone (EA81 / Brat) uses the same diameter and tall coil springs on the Front, being different on their spring rate and load rates only; you can use the third gen Leone's (EA82) coil springs on the second gen Leones (EA81), also you can use the Alternative coil springs from another automotive makes, which I mention here, on the second gen Leones, but their suspension could get way too stiff and might need a small cut off on the coil spring's wire, to work. Remember: going too weak or too stiff on the suspension on any car, could make you loose control of it, mainly on irregular terrains, so this could be Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Disclaimer: Use this information, and All the information I post, at your own Risk! Introduction: Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, Stiffer. The modifications written here, has been tested with great results on the third gen Leone (EA82) Wagon only. My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon EA82 new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs on it since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, things which I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin! In this Writeup: ► Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs. ► Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars. ► Their part numbers. ► Photos. First Part: modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts: About The REAR Suspension: In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye... Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie: The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)... ...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised, two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass. So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring. 2WD .Vs. 4WD ► Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base. Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches. Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber, with Part Number and KYB equivalence: The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230 But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear. Chapter 1: How to Improve the Rear Suspension: First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements: I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo: Honduran “Yonkers” are different from the regular “PaP” (pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in “Areas” so, you can find in a Latin American “Yónker”, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American “Yonker” (Junk Yard): I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities. The variables that I compare, are their Measurements, Spring Rates, Load Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised. So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt. The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones. The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is: ~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers? My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution: To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones! (Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...) As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon. (Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo) The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: ~► KYB 341232 in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market). The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers... According to online databases, it does interchange with: ~► Monroe D8344 ~► Sachs 230631 ~► BOGE 27-D67-A I Tested the KYB 341232 only, any other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear, since many, many years ago... ...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel. (as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3") But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above. In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models, here is the Factory Guide about how to do that: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration. ► LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed. About The FRONT Suspension: The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast", new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers: Passenger Side: ~► 71876 .................Driver Side: ~► 71877 Chapter 2: How to Improve the Front Suspension: Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension). Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight. So, using "my own method" which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire. I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications. ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse... Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here. (thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs, So those should be: ~► MOOG CC854 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775375 for "Napa" Brand. These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift, as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru. Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you: They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities: Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia. The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder, with the stiffer suspension. Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc... ...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before. I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways... ...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads... ...and it Feels Really AWESOME! ... ... but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore. Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!
  3. The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
  4. So the interior of my GL that I'm restoring smells like a old wet gym sock, IT'S GREAT! But all great things must end and I would like to find a fresh carpet. Thing is, my usually go to places either come up with universal carpet kits or nothing at all and worse yet, tell me my car doesn't exist. So I know someone at some point here must of sourced one before. Has anyone been able to find a pre-molded carpet for a EA82 wagon before? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  5. So I'm putting the engine in my 1991 loyale back together because some clutz took it apart. It's almost complete but I'm at a loss on what goes here by the alternator by the plug hanging beside it. Any help?
  6. I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
  7. NWRallySports

    EJ2EA Oil Adapter Line

    Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
  8. Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
  9. when i first got my 89GL wagon it had a cracked windshield, eh 25year old car, what else do you expect, but now that this car is about to see its 5th windshield under my ownership, i think its getting ridiculous, and thats because the windshield that the car came with was a pilkington and not the original, so for all i know its had 5 and going to a 6th in its lifetime (atleast including the original subaru windshield only), it had a pilkington that was cracked when i bought it, autolite was the first one i bought, then pilkington, then solar shade, and now the solar shade just got cracked. they have all been rocks from semis, no i do not tailgate them, infact i avoid them!! the first one was a rock 3 lanes over! i have it on the dash cam, second was the car infront of me bounced a rock from their windshield to mine that came from a semi infront of him (the chances for that to happen)also got it on dashcam, the third that just happened yesterday the semi was in the left lane passing me and i get a thank you by getting a cracked windshield (also taped on my dash cam) tried contacting the company (Sunset Logistics Inc. or also known as Drive4Sunset) to see if i can get them to pay for it because $220 is kinda punishing each time and they keep sending me to a voice machine that leads nowhere, and i doubt the police would do anything, they can care less. what brand of windshield do you guys use and has cracked windshields happen to you? i have a 93 impreza that used to be my daily with a pilkington windshield that has taken 5 rocks and 2 chunks of tires to the windshield and its been perfectly fine, but the first rock that hits my GL always cracks the windshield.. :/
  10. Well, 2 plus years ago when I took this engine out, apparently I had my head somewhere else, cause looking at my crank IT AIN'T right. So any help here would be greatly appreciated. Apparently I am not allowed to up load pics now will try to add a link, don't know how that is going to go since I am not good at that either..... http://1drv.ms/1FIFSna Tester Looks like it is viewable to me anyway. Anybody see it??
  11. Andersondesign-fab.com Well guys I’ve started building lift kits. All my kits are reinforced and built stronger than they need to be, providing a safe and reliable means of lifting your Subaru. I’m keeping the cost as low as possible to make my customers happy and see them wheeling there Subaru’s! Little bit about myself, I have an AA in Architecture, AA in Mechanical Engineering, my year certificate in machining and almost done with my bachelor’s degree in Architecture. I being working/loving on Subaru’s for over 6 years. Been working under one of the best Subaru mechanics, non-other than GD for over 2 year. On to the Lift Kits! This is what i have currently, I will warranty all my kits and parts them self, as i feel i will never have to, due to the over kill of strength. All hardware is included Kits will take up to a week to fabricate, depending on what i have on hand. And yes this is my original design and my fabrication. LIFT SPECS: All hardware is grade 8 strandard, all metric bolts are 10.9 grade. Top and Bottem hats on the front lift blocks are 3/16" steel, sandwiching 1/4" tube walls. Rear brackets are 1/4" steel with 1/4" gussets. All subframe blocks are 1/4" thickness. When any lift kit is purchased, installation instructions in PDF, along with your Invoice, are included. EA81 2" lift $320 Shipped EA81 4" lift $450 Shipped EA82 2" lift kit $180 Shipped EA82 2" lift kit W/ 1.5" Full sub frame drop $275 Shipped EA82 4" Reinforced rear brackets 70$ shipped EJ 1" Solid steel strut spacers. $200 a set Shipped. The spacers are tapped to allow the spacer to be bolted to the top hat of the strut, for a stronger bond. 98-08 Foresters 95-99 Legacys and Outbacks 02-07 Imprezas EJ 2" Strut spacers. $300 a set Shipped. I also have the 2 Bolt rear for the newer Subarus as well. 2" kits are off set for near perfect caber correction. Forester, Legacy, Impreza EJ trailing arm spacer $110 a set Shipped New Gen EJ $300 a set Shipped 2" SH Forester lift kit with rear trailing arm spacers $500 Shipped FIRST ON THE MARKET!! EJ-EA Adapter plate, 6061 Aluminum wet jet cut. Dowel pins line up perfect and have a snug fit.145$ Tapped,shipped in the US. EJ-EA harness Stripping OBD-1 $250, OBD-2 $200. Before: AFTER: Notes: -All EA82 lift kits keep the camber near stock, if not completely stock. -Wheel at your own risk. -Not liable for any damages not under warranty of ADF. More coming soon! Like me on Facebook and keep posted! https://www.facebook.com/ADNFAB Pm me or contact me at ADNFAB@gmail.com for questions and inquiries!
  12. having serious regrets about messing around w/ my Loyale, "Joan Crawlins" after i finally had her in the best shape she's been in since i got her last Winter in Penn. everything was great as stock, but then i put in a 2" inch lift to gain clearance over sand in btwn the tracks on a rutted out access road to the beach. that messed up the camber of the front wheels something awful (pics here: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs) and after tracking down some 15" alloy pugs in a junkyard in Pennsylvania and ordering lugs from Dan in Sacramento, i thought that would help the camber issue, but it didn't solve nearly enough for daily driving. so pulled the lift kit out, but kept the pugs on and had to cut a bunch of the wells out cause i was getting lots of rubbing since my suspension was in bad shape. put in new struts in the front which helped, gonna put in struts in the back in the next couple days, but having no luck finding coils for the front. CAN I USE COILS FOR ANOTHER SUBARU that are easily available? like a legacy? if so, what should i get? also, now my camber is ok in the front, i'm getting positive camber in the back, which i can only guess was as a result of putting in and taking out the lift in the back. once i put in new struts in the back and hopefully coils in the front, and then get everything aligned professionally, will my camber issues be solved, theoretically? just ruing my decision to have changed anything at this point, but all's not lost by along shot and if i can get the suspension finished and the alignment solves the camber, i'll be happy to have the Pugs on rather than the stock 13"s. here's a look at where i'm at now: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues @175eya @CoyotePaws @Mechanical_Misfit thanks for the help folks, as always, i'm eternally grateful for the advice and support. -Glen
  13. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
  14. So the idler bolt pulled the threads out of the block when it came loose, i drilled it out and put a helicoil in but i diddnt notice it was crooked until it was too late and the pressure with the belt on pulled the threads out of the block for the tensioner, both of them so i drilled those out and helicoiled them but putting them back in one broke off in the block... Help I dont know what to do now, can i extract them and put in studs somehow? or is there a way to oversize them even more but still be able to bolt the tensioner back up? and what can i do about the crooked drill/helicoil for the idler? at a loss here.
  15. After reading all the threads throughout the years, I never broke one of these bolts...until today. One bolt was stuck, used a heap of penetrant and heat to try and get it out, buuuuuut... It's the one on the left. Got the other five out, however now I can't slip the manifold over the broken bolt. What are my options?
  16. Hi All! ... ... Please Correct me if I'm Wrong, this is for my EA82 Wagon. if I Have a PCV Setup like This one... (This Awesome Clean EA82 Engine Belongs to Kanurys) ...and my EA82 is Blowin' Oil thru the PCV setup, I Must install an Oil Catch Can, Right? Recently I Obtained an Oil Catch Can that Looks similar to This one: The Questions Are: Should I Hook it Between the Driver's side Head Hose and the PCV intake Valve, isn't it? The Passenger's Side Hose Doesn't need any Oil Catch Can 'cos it will only "Suck" Air from the Air Filter's Box, at the Carb... isn't it? Any Suggestion, advice or Idea will be Greatly Appreciated. Kind Regards.
  17. I have been chasing the cause of extreme surging with this car. It was a bad O2 sensor. So as a quick heads up, most people will tell you its not possible for that to be the cause, but trust me it was. With the new O2 sensor it was running much better (solved the extreme surging) but with some slight hesitation and almost a miss. Later in the day I am pretty sure I found the source of the hesitation/miss... Timing belt that decided to break on my way to show off the car to a buddy. Hopefully the new timing belt will take care of the last remaining problems. But let me digress, I had a fun time changing the O2 sensor on the newly purchased 1993 Subaru Loyale. After many trips to the store to grab different tools and things I ended up getting the O2 sensor out. At first I spent some time attempting to use a harbor freight O2 sensor removal tool but just managed to figure out that its a bit tight to make that tool work and once you have figured out a way to make it work... its a 22mm O2 sensor and not a 7/8 like the harbor freight tool. Ok run to the local autozone and rent there O2 tool kit (25.99). Throw on the 22mm O2 sensor tool and manage to fight the sensor for another 30+ minutes before saying screw it and removing the whole y-pipe. Once the y-pipe was out I managed to finish rounding off most the existing O2 sensor and was ready to take to my friends metal shop to just drill it out. Then I had one last idea, remove the heat shield and see if I could fit a box end on the O2 sensor that way. Magically it worked. I could fit a 22mm box wrench on the O2 sensor and with some help of a rubber mallet I was able to break free the O2 sensor from the exhaust. It was a bitch but I am pretty sure this was the only way I would have been able to remove the O2 sensor and also the most simple fool proof way to do it. tl;dr Remove the y-pipe. Once thats free remove the heat shield around the cat. Use a 22mm wrench and a rubber mallet to beat the O2 sensor out of the cat. Tools Needed: 12mm, 14mm, 22mm, rubber mallet, PB blaster (or something of the sort), rags. Hope my pain is another mans gain.
  18. im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
  19. Hello all. After doing a full engine out reseal and clutch replacement on my 1990 loyale I'm having trouble getting my motor dialed in. It fires up and runs but it's VERY rough at low rpm. The timing is not dead on but pretty close. When I pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3 they look a little sooty but not bad. Cylinder 4 is very sooty/wet and show now signs of spark. Cylinder 2 is sooty and doesn't show much sign of spark. While the motors running I can pull the number 4 wire from the disty and it makes no difference. If I pull the number 2 wire the rpm fluctuates slightly but not much of a change. If i pull wires 1 or 3 the engine dies. ADDITIONAL INFO: After running for a bit the passenger side of the engine is hot to the touch while the driver side is cool. After the engine had been running a while the exhaust was glowing red. (maybe unburned fuel from cylinders 2 and 4??) Here's what I've tried: -Swapping spark plugs -new wires -new coil -new cap and rotor Any ideas? I'm going to the parts store here in spokane to rent a compression tester. but I'm pretty stumped Thanks! -K
  20. Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!!
  21. Well, the dreaded happened the other day. I went to go check the fluids and this is what I ended up with! So I ordered the new cable online (Park Suabru, ordered it Sun night and arrived Tuesday morn. $14.23. :rock: ) Hood Release Cable, part number 57331GA122 But there was a major problem. How the *%&^ do I open the hood w/o destroying the grille, hood or other stuff. (If your hood is open, then skip ahead to the cable replacement part) Well, for those of us with large hands, an A/C condenser or want to just make it easy, the ever useful slim-jim to the rescue! It was as if this tool was made for this job.. Available at ANY auto parts stores, can be had for around 7 bucks and has helped me and MANY stranded people. (Disclaimer: Never use this tool for malicious use. With a great tool comes great responsibility) Coming from up under the bumper using the notched spade-head side (not the fishtail side), on the driver's side, in front of the A/C condenser, angle the slim-jim at a ~45 degree angle and starting just below the assembly, slide up behind the latch mechanism. Now while flexing the tool toward the grille and dragging it outward toward the headlight, you should feel it catch. This is the latch release. Continue to pull the tool horizontally (toward the headlight, not down toward the marker light/ground) until the hood releases. Viola! Here are some images once I felt the slim-jim catch the release lever. (grille removed for clarity) Under car, looking up. Now that the hood is open, we can get to work! So I started by releasing the 4 plastic anchor clips that hold the cable to the inner fender and core support. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the latch to the core support (you will need to do this if part of the cable is still attached AND to hook the new anchor into the mechanism when installing the new cable) backside with the cable anchor attached Remove the 2 screws holding the cable shield to the latch and the core support. (Set aside the latch) Near the cable end, remove the tear-drop bracket attached to the old cable (you will need to re-use this). Be gentle, it will butterfly apart and then set aside. With patience, work the cable through the pass-through in the core support, around the battery and under the strut tower support plate. Now feed the old cable through the rubber grommet on the driver's side firewall until approx 6-8" are left in the engine bay. Move to the inside. Using a phillips screwdriver, Undo the 2 screws holding the hood release cable bracket to the bulkhead. Once free, take the head of the new cable and tape to the old cable. Wrap several times so the head will not catch on any wires or insulation. Back into the engine bay. Gently peel back the rubber rectangle grommet and pull the old cable up through the grommet until the new cable attached to the old cable is visible. Undo the new cable from the old. Push the old cable back through the grommet completely. Push the new cable through the open hole in the grommet. Push the grommet back into place on the firewall. Make sure to massage the edges well to get a good seal. Water DOES like to nest up there... Back inside. Attach the new cable/bracket assembly back to the bulkhead. The screw holes were very easy to find. Back outside. Feed the new cable following the route the old one took (Under the strut tower support plate, along the inner fender, UNDER the body grounding cable, UNDER the coolant resevoir feed tube and back through the hole in the core support) Be sure to put the protective grommet back around the cable BEFORE you attach the cable anchor to the latch assembly. With the anchor in the cradle of the latch, attach the latch to the core support. Replace screws to the cable shield. Finally, anchor cable to sheetmetal with the plastic retainers. DO THIS STEP LAST. Once the cable has the plastic anchors on, it becomes NEARLY impossible to slide the cable in the retainers. Test pull a few times checking for binding, lack of return or general badness (yeah, it's a word. ) BEFORE closing the hood. If all is good, close the hood to check for binding or excessive force. Grab a beer and enjoy the luxury of having a cable operated hood latch once again!
  22. Hello again, I've now drop my shiny rebuilt ea82 back into my loyale but I've got a concern... I haven't started the engine yet but I noticed that pushing in the clutch does nothing, and it feels pretty loose. If I put the trans in first and push the clutch in I should be able to push the car foward right?? As I understand it the loyale doesn't have a master and slave cylinder its just a cable straight to clutch release lever. I see the lever move but It doesnt feel like it's engaging the pressure plate? Any wisdom would be helpful.... Thanks!
  23. I bought a 91 EA82 with EFI and automatic for my wife and I'm only getting 22mpg. The check engine light comes on after a few miles but runs fine. This mpg seems low. I had an 89 with carb and auto that got 28mpg. I was expecting as good or better with the EFI. Any ideas?
  24. I picked up a 1993 Loyale wagon for 400$, expecting the best from it as i always have... well it just so happens i bought the only subaru that has ever given me problems! Mainly due to the fact that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing and messed alot of things up. looking for some advice and guidance for sure! Ive done head gasket jobs on plenty of my buddies chevys but never on a boxer. ive got a chiltons on the way and wanted to ask if theres anything i should know before ordering parts and diving in? any info would be greatly appreciated. My ultimate goal is to lift it 2' and turn it into an offroad rig.
  25. Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!