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Found 174 results

  1. I just want some opinions here, my concern is through the roof. I am considering taking my 1990 Loyale wagon on a trip from Portland, Oregon to Gallipolis, Ohio, which is on the eastern side of the state. The trip is about 2600 miles, beginning on I-84, then moving onto I-80 and I-74. I'm a stranger to drives this far but if I do it, i'm not worried about lack of driving skill or anything like that. I'd maybe cruise a bit less than 500 miles a day until i got there. Who knows. What I AM worried about is ye olde ea82. Its a tough old gal, but it has given me trouble here and there, no surprises. I have a bit of an oil leak on the passenger side cam tower, which became pretty noticeable after cleaning the block. It's not enough so that I need to dump more oil in, in fact, I haven't noticed any oil loss whatsoever. What DOES go down the drain is some coolant, and I dont really know where it goes. Its not an absurd amount but, like i say, noticeable. The car drives like a champ for what it is, a yellow bellied ea82. However, I would kinda be up spoob creek with half a paddle if it blew up on the drive. I know my way around the engine bay no doubt, but thats not gonna save me if i throw a rod bearing or really cream the cam tower/head. Does anyone have experience with a trip like this in a "seasoned" ea82, or some insight they can give me? I would appreciate it greatly. I dont have much cash to save myself in the event of a mass failure. Is it worth trying? Car is a '90 Loyale wagon, optional 4wd, 5spd tranny. Thanks in advance guys. The car has been running pretty solid lately, it has had an electrical problem before but its fixed now. If spoob hits the fan, what kind of costs(jagged, rough estimates) can i expect to get this thing rebuilt? Any parts you see as impending doom-bringers?
  2. So i have an extra EA82 that has about 90k on it, it was running well until the head gasket went. When i took it apart i noticed one of the cylinders had a pitted rust spot about a quarter of an inch square near the end of the piston stroke. I dont remember it smoking, but it probably was to some extent. Would it be worth boring and getting enlarged pistons if i could do the boring myself? I'm currently going to school as a machinist and may have the correct machines to do it at home. But ive read that the EA82 is not worth boring for cost reasons. Has anyone had a bore job done on their EA82? how did it work out for you? Any and all discussion on this topic is welcome and appreciated.
  3. My EA82 wagon has a slight, random misfire. Recently, I've been pretty determined to find the solution. About 20,000 miles ago, I swapped the long block. Used my old distributor, but got new spark plugs (NGK BPR6ES-11), new spark plug wires (Import Direct 40975), new distributor cap (Import Direct 10-0199), and distributor rotor (Import Direct 12-0186). All parts I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Before starting the engine when I installed it, I accidentally hydrolocked it with coolant. I pulled the plugs and cleaned out the coolant. I also accidentally had two of the spark plug wires mixed up. But once I got it all sorted out, I was driving fine. This is when I first noticed the slight misfire. Flash forward to today: I've currently got new plugs (NGK BPR6EY-11) and new wires (NGK 9350) coming in the mail. My current spark plugs don't look abnormal. I think having NGK wires will make a big difference, but I have another issue. My distributor rotor seems to be making serious contact with the cap. There's virtually no up-and-down play in the shaft, nor side-to-side. There's some rotational play, but since it's supposed to be spinning, I don't see how that could cause it to do this. Could it be the wrong parts? What have you guys used for your cap & rotor? I figure what I'll do is grab another distributor from the junkyard. Get a new cap and rotor as well. Besides shaft play, how can I tell how good the distributor is? Is there a way to clean it once I get it home? I have a good feeling that this is what's causing my misfire, since my misfire seems to be very random. It's not necessarily on one cylinder, and it misfires at random times (once every 1-5 seconds).
  4. Gloyale


    Spent Halloween working on my own Frankenstein super lifted T-cased Subaru project. 86 Isuzu Trooper diesel Front frame. Cut just behind the torsion mounts. Keeping the Isuzu A-arms, knuckles, hubs, brakes. Hooking up to Subaru 4.11 Diff using hybrid Isuzu and EA81 Axles. EJ steering rack with Isuzu tierods. Nissan 720 Transfercase Here's some teaser pics. Not sure it's really what I want to do......but it's a start.
  5. This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback.
  6. Hey guys, just wanted to see if anyone had input or experience regarding this bearing/washer combo I came across whilst googling. I have a car with cheap coil sleeves installed on stock struts, and I'm doing a bit of troubleshooting. By the way, I am aware that that last sentence contains atrocious words(cheap coil sleeves, stock struts).. Words that only a young man with a microscopic budget would utter. Try to get past that before you bust the flamethrower out. SO, the car in question has a pretty bad case of "coil-bind" or "spring bind." That's not really a common term, so if you haven't heard of it, here's what I know: we're obviously talking about a macpherson strut setup here, so the strut and spring turn when the steering wheel turns. My springs get hung up somehow, if you get what I mean. There is tension in the steering wheel, particularly when stopped and turning the wheel. The tension builds and "pops," which is audible both inside and outside the car, and can be felt in the steering wheel. The "binding" doesn't just happen when stopped, so say you come to a stop and turn the car 90 degrees to the right. The springs don't want to rotate smoothly, and they make a little pop noise as you crank the wheel. The car now pulls to the right, as the spring doesn't want to rotate back to it's normal position after the turn is complete. They are square end springs, I feel as if the issue is pretty clear(in my head) and the base of the spring is just not rotating properly, particularly since it's under so much pressure. These roller thrust bearings I came across seem like they could be a solution. If not a complete fix, maybe they would "reduce the symptoms" a bit. Has anyone seen this in action on a car, or really anything in real life? I think the consensus will be that I should buy some and try it out, but I just wondered if any of you physics-inclined folks would have valuable input. I would appreciate it, and do flame on if you feel it is necessary. Here are two links that are relevant: Eibach Torsion Release Bearings TRB250 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing QA1 Coil-Over Shock Thrust Bearing Kits 7888-109 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Thanks in advance, Subaru Gods.
  7. My 85 4wd wagon has a bit more rake than I'd like with the 2" lift -when it rains and I brake, it floods the windshield. If I could get it up in front an inch, it would help. Everywhere including the owners manual says there are adjustment nuts, but I don't see them. Forum searches are coming up vague as well. Don't see any plug for the rear torsion adjustment either. Mfg date is 12/84. I think the PO said the d-side strut was newer-the label there is readable,"KYB gas Replacement" -both sides look identical. Could the replacement strut be missing this? Am I not seeing something here?
  8. So my *$%#@ timing belt on the pass. side went mia, leaving me stranded. Went ahead and ordered the kit but it won't be here for a couple days, and I'd like to get the car back home where it's secure & easier to work on. Thought if I could get that belt off the motor on my bench, I could slap that on and drive it here. Trouble is the benched motor has timing belt covers, necessitating the removal of the crank pulley -which is tricky with the motor sitting on a milk crate with no flywheel. Anyone have a trick to get that off?
  9. So today I decided to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes on my Loyale. I've been looking for rear discs for about a year, but not had any luck. Either I don't have the money, there are no junkyard cars, or a list of other reasons. I just spent the $20 and got new drum shoes. Installation went fine (surprising). Wasn't too difficult, even for my first time doing drum brakes. What I have a question about is the old shoes. One thing that caught my eye was the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on two of the shoes. Could these be the original brake shoes that came with car in 1990? The new shoes didn't have the Fuji logo (obviously). The odometer is at 278,300 miles. I doubt these are the original shoes. I'd imagine they've been replaced once before. If they were replaced at the dealership, could they have use Fuji brake shoes? I'm just curious about this. Knowing some of the car's history, I'd say it was probably a 60/40 highway/city driving car. So there's no way the shoes are original, right? They're really worn down, but they still worked. Lift the back of the car, step on the brake, and you can't turn the wheels. Second thing I wanted to ask about is the wear. The leading edge shoe (towards the front of the car) had less material than the trailing edge. Is this normal for EA82s? Both sides were exactly the same, no marks on the drums themselves, and the material on the pads seems pretty normal (no cracks or whatever). I just wanted to ask about this. I kinda have a feeling it's normal, but wanted to check. Thanks for any help. I know a lot of people do rear disc swaps, so not sure how abundant the information on drums is. But all I can say is, the new shoes made a HUGE difference. My brake pedal is a lot stiffer and doesn't have a deadzone in it anymore. I presume the front brakes won't overheat easily anymore. I'll be happy if I can get at least 100K out of these shoes. Thanks!
  10. 86 Wonder Wedge

    Odd A/C behavior

    Calling A/C techs... I had a theory about the problem, but I'd like to confer before proceeding. A/C system was working last 2 years, but now it only cycles for ~10 seconds, then shuts off until I cycle the A/C (or defrost) off/on. Does this every time, no matter how long I wait between A/C cycles. Belts are tight, no clutch slippage (that I can observe) and the engine DOES idle up when running (pulser is gapped to spec) Hooked up the R-12 gauge and there were the readings: Engine at EOT, system off: Low side: ~50 psi HIgh side: 55 psi System cycling: Low: drops to ~0 psi quickly High: raises to ~75-85 and holds After cycle: Low: raises to ~55-60 psi High: drops to ~60 psi I added less than 5oz of R12, but same result, only the high side raises slightly, but the low raises when the system is not cycling. Before I add (or maybe waste if the receiver/drier needs replaced) any more, I just wanted to confirm that it just might be low on R12 and the trinary switch is deactiviating due to low pressure.
  11. Good afternoon all, I have a 1989 Subaru GL wagon (EA82) that I will be lifting 2". I am looking for recommendations for rims & tires. I will also be drilling out my hubs to the toyota 6 bolt pattern. Any favorites for big tires and rims (size, brand, etc) that have the off-road look and feel without sacrificing street handling. I will most likely be driving to work (20 mi) with this car. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cost is always king I am not looking to sell my kidneys to fund this build but I understand it will take some coin. Thanks, Lewis
  12. Gloyale

    Front suspension mods

    So, I've been working on my suspension alot latetly. Got the rear super dialed in. 11 inches of travel!!! WOOT WOOT!! But now I need to work on the front. First try: This worked well for the upper shock mount, and the general location. Also, it was super easy to do by hammering a bolt between the channel that made the sway bar mount. Problem is, the bolts stick down low adn got hung up, also, I felt like my down travel was limited. So on to design # 2: I like this setup alot better. While doing this mod I also added 2" to the lift blocks on top of the struts. Also used some aftermarket springs that were on the a De-air suspesnsioned 92 Legacy. This combo is Muuy Bueno!!! 13 inches clearance at the Front Diff!! 4inches of travel Wish that was better, but I can certainly live with it. Questions? Comments? Pics of your mods? Discuss
  13. New here. Trying to get my 94 Loyale up and running again. It is firing on only 3 cylinders and my mechanic has run through most everything now thinking it is the distributor. Just wondering how common a bad distributor is on these and if that doesn't fix it andybody got any other ideas? Much appreciated.
  14. Seriously thinking about getting this pair of engines. Is this an okay price, Subaru parts don't come for sale very often? What should I look for when looking at them? Best way to tell if I shouldn't purchase them? http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4394836243.html
  15. In March 2012 I hopped on a train to AZ within an hour of finding on craigsL a 1986 gl wagon on demand 4WD with only 141,568 miles on it! Her color was White and she was Pristine inside and out! Cold AC, alunimun alloy wheels, tires had 3,000 miles on them! For $2000.oo! I drove her the 400 miles home with no problems and she spead right up the hills! Her 5sp was great! Since then I had a new clutch put in and my stepson put in a new water pump and timming belts! I just love Subie's! Thanks for reading and hope to read others experience too!
  16. I bought this 91 Loyale wagon over a year ago TRYING to get the time to do the head gaskets on the motor. My question is with the timing belt covers, they are warped not drastically that being said I don't believe that they would match up if I were to put them back on which I won't be doing anyway. How does, or can one tell how damaged the lower end is without tearing it completely down? I believe I have most of the parts to do the job, I just need to get the heads surfaced (after much consideration I've decieded that this is one thing not on my DIY list ) I can add some pics of the covers later here to see what you think, I am just not sure I want to put more time and money into something that might fail down the road. The PO did tell me it was smoking pretty bad when it was parked and when I drained the oil, it did tell the story of white milk shake. I have spied two other Subaru engines on Craigslist that sound like to be a good fit in my area, very tempted to go grab em up but I don't have much space to put them at this time. One is a 2.2 rebuilt with manual and the other is a EA82 I am guessing. I am very skeptical of buying fresh rebuilt stuff as this guy has stated. See below. http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4394836243.html
  17. kirzick

    Cheap and easy 2'' lift

    Hey guys i thought id put this in one easy to find place. This is probably the simplest way to lift your subie. This is for a ea82 but the same methods can be adapted to ea81 models. To lift the front: Recommended but not necessary to function: To lift the rear: OR I hope this is helpful. I did not make these diagrams. Thank you to there authors. Cheers!
  18. So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
  19. New Market Skills Center is hosting its annual Car Show on MAY 8th! We have decided to mix it up this year and try to have more variety. Rally cars, clean builds, and even wheelers are encouraged to attend! New market is an alternative high school. In addition to the car show we are also having an open house for our programs. If you aren't interested in the school side its totally fine to simply view the cars. Free burgers! Complete a tour book and insistently win a prize from one of many sponsors! If you would like to enter a car please call (360)470-0596 and ask about the car show. This is a student run event. Thank you everyone! https://www.facebook.com/newmarketskillscenteropenhouseandcarshow
  20. So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker
  21. every time i start my 90 subaru loyale it pops the gasket on my oil filter and spews my oil all over the ground. and i watch the pressure rise on the needle it only takes about 10 secs till it reaches the top. the driver side cam was a little hard to turn when i replaced the timing belts. and yes i did it correctly (the second time after watching miles fox's video. ) i dont know what happened please help!
  22. After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at?
  23. Was referred to the site by a kind gentleman who sold me a set of studded snows on factory steelies in Lacey - thanks again! First car (and what little mechanical experience I had) was an 86 22re Toyota PU 4x4. When I lost reverse, decided to take a chance and trade for an 89 Loyale with the 4x4 high low - despite having a blown headgasket. Found a guy on CL named Able who has been working on subarus far longer than i've been around town. After finding a running motor in Seattle ($150) he came down and did the swap, along the way I fell in love with the genius that is Subaru engineering! Once the car was running (with blown head gasket motor in the garage) he came back and showed me how to replace the front axle and hub assembly. Car has been on the road for two months now. Replaced the thermostat (there wasn't one in the salvaged motor...) and on my first run down to lacey the car got close to 30 mpg - my excitement is now through the roof LOL. Have also replaced the front rotors; calipers are operable so were left original for now. When we pulled the original motor (car has 275k) there was no coolant, wasn't surprising as the passenger head gasket was blown, with evidence the previous owner tried a white stop leak (visible once the intake was removed, as well as all over the underside of the motor). Having drained the caramel frappacino looking oil out of the block, I am curious as to the actual condition/damage done to the motor. This is why I came to the USMB. I have a chilton manual and have read up on removing the cylinder heads, but am looking for advice on the issue. Ideally, I would like to rebuild this motor and learn how these things really tick - not comfortable taking this thing to elk camp in the fall on the current motor, however well it may be running. Reading online, it appears my options are a regasket/reseal kit, or a complete rebuild kit. Being on a tight budget - with a few other loud hobbies - I am hoping to do all or most of the work myself. Have a friend who worked at a garage with machine shop nearby if the heads need to be resurfaced. What would the first step be in diagnosing the damage (can I do a compression test with the intake manifold off?) I am most concerned about removing whatever crap the PO added to the coolant system - is a complete tear down my best or only option? Dont mean to ramble, but thought i would throw out a line before pulling the valve covers..
  24. Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)
  25. So I have recently acquired a 94 loyale and upon inspection and diagnosing the engine needs gone through in short. The engine is pulled and ready to be worked with. Now originally I was just gonna do a regular spec rebuild nothing special new gaskets rings pistons valves etc etc well I got to wondering why not build it up a little? Its not a race car and I know im not gonna get anywhere near 200hp but I figured it could at least push 130-140hp. So has anyone done a build on an ea82? Or know of where I can get larger cams and pistons or any "performance" parts for a fuel injected ea82 and just more bang for my buck?