Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'EA82'.
-
New here. Trying to get my 94 Loyale up and running again. It is firing on only 3 cylinders and my mechanic has run through most everything now thinking it is the distributor. Just wondering how common a bad distributor is on these and if that doesn't fix it andybody got any other ideas? Much appreciated.
-
In March 2012 I hopped on a train to AZ within an hour of finding on craigsL a 1986 gl wagon on demand 4WD with only 141,568 miles on it! Her color was White and she was Pristine inside and out! Cold AC, alunimun alloy wheels, tires had 3,000 miles on them! For $2000.oo! I drove her the 400 miles home with no problems and she spead right up the hills! Her 5sp was great! Since then I had a new clutch put in and my stepson put in a new water pump and timming belts! I just love Subie's! Thanks for reading and hope to read others experience too! -
Seriously thinking about getting this pair of engines. Is this an okay price, Subaru parts don't come for sale very often? What should I look for when looking at them? Best way to tell if I shouldn't purchase them? http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4394836243.html
-
Hey guys i thought id put this in one easy to find place. This is probably the simplest way to lift your subie. This is for a ea82 but the same methods can be adapted to ea81 models. To lift the front: Recommended but not necessary to function: To lift the rear: OR I hope this is helpful. I did not make these diagrams. Thank you to there authors. Cheers!
-
I bought this 91 Loyale wagon over a year ago TRYING to get the time to do the head gaskets on the motor. My question is with the timing belt covers, they are warped not drastically that being said I don't believe that they would match up if I were to put them back on which I won't be doing anyway. How does, or can one tell how damaged the lower end is without tearing it completely down? I believe I have most of the parts to do the job, I just need to get the heads surfaced (after much consideration I've decieded that this is one thing not on my DIY list ) I can add some pics of the covers later here to see what you think, I am just not sure I want to put more time and money into something that might fail down the road. The PO did tell me it was smoking pretty bad when it was parked and when I drained the oil, it did tell the story of white milk shake. I have spied two other Subaru engines on Craigslist that sound like to be a good fit in my area, very tempted to go grab em up but I don't have much space to put them at this time. One is a 2.2 rebuilt with manual and the other is a EA82 I am guessing. I am very skeptical of buying fresh rebuilt stuff as this guy has stated. See below. http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4394836243.html
-
So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
-
I have some six lug hubs and drums on wrecked 84 gl. Will both the hubs and drums switch over to a 90 loyal? Thanks! -
New Market Skills Center is hosting its annual Car Show on MAY 8th! We have decided to mix it up this year and try to have more variety. Rally cars, clean builds, and even wheelers are encouraged to attend! New market is an alternative high school. In addition to the car show we are also having an open house for our programs. If you aren't interested in the school side its totally fine to simply view the cars. Free burgers! Complete a tour book and insistently win a prize from one of many sponsors! If you would like to enter a car please call (360)470-0596 and ask about the car show. This is a student run event. Thank you everyone! https://www.facebook.com/newmarketskillscenteropenhouseandcarshow
-
So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker -
every time i start my 90 subaru loyale it pops the gasket on my oil filter and spews my oil all over the ground. and i watch the pressure rise on the needle it only takes about 10 secs till it reaches the top. the driver side cam was a little hard to turn when i replaced the timing belts. and yes i did it correctly (the second time after watching miles fox's video. ) i dont know what happened please help!
-
So......the projector headlight thread has alot of talk in it about relocating the Turn signals to the corner markers.........For better visibilty to other drivers, and to upen up room for foglights in teh stock location below the bumper. So I thought I woudl post about how I did mine..... Originally just wired the marker lights to be turns......but that left no marker light......and the old fixtures were cracked and broken, and they blinked clear not amber... and the wattage being off makes em blink fast. Plus....Like I said the old fixtures for the larger bulb are ussually cracked and wont stay in place cause the tabs are busted off. So next I tried this Ford pickup dual filament socket.....with a ground spade on the edge. Used a stepper bit to hog out the OE hole until the ford socket slipped in. Wired it up.......Amber running light, Brighter Amber Turnsignal...the small yellow light is left as a Corner makrer. Works excellent.......I'm gonna do this to the GFs car real soon.
-
Was referred to the site by a kind gentleman who sold me a set of studded snows on factory steelies in Lacey - thanks again! First car (and what little mechanical experience I had) was an 86 22re Toyota PU 4x4. When I lost reverse, decided to take a chance and trade for an 89 Loyale with the 4x4 high low - despite having a blown headgasket. Found a guy on CL named Able who has been working on subarus far longer than i've been around town. After finding a running motor in Seattle ($150) he came down and did the swap, along the way I fell in love with the genius that is Subaru engineering! Once the car was running (with blown head gasket motor in the garage) he came back and showed me how to replace the front axle and hub assembly. Car has been on the road for two months now. Replaced the thermostat (there wasn't one in the salvaged motor...) and on my first run down to lacey the car got close to 30 mpg - my excitement is now through the roof LOL. Have also replaced the front rotors; calipers are operable so were left original for now. When we pulled the original motor (car has 275k) there was no coolant, wasn't surprising as the passenger head gasket was blown, with evidence the previous owner tried a white stop leak (visible once the intake was removed, as well as all over the underside of the motor). Having drained the caramel frappacino looking oil out of the block, I am curious as to the actual condition/damage done to the motor. This is why I came to the USMB. I have a chilton manual and have read up on removing the cylinder heads, but am looking for advice on the issue. Ideally, I would like to rebuild this motor and learn how these things really tick - not comfortable taking this thing to elk camp in the fall on the current motor, however well it may be running. Reading online, it appears my options are a regasket/reseal kit, or a complete rebuild kit. Being on a tight budget - with a few other loud hobbies - I am hoping to do all or most of the work myself. Have a friend who worked at a garage with machine shop nearby if the heads need to be resurfaced. What would the first step be in diagnosing the damage (can I do a compression test with the intake manifold off?) I am most concerned about removing whatever crap the PO added to the coolant system - is a complete tear down my best or only option? Dont mean to ramble, but thought i would throw out a line before pulling the valve covers..
-
I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
-
I have alot of parts for the 86,87,88 subaru xt coupe. Should fit the XT6 also. I want these out of my basement. I have stored them many years, tried to sell them on here before. I would like someone to buy these as a lot. I will separate the smaller items but do not want to ship the hood, deck lid, dashboard or seats. The items are in NH. Let me know what you want and shot me a price. Here is a partial list. hood with turbo scoop rear deck lid front and rear seats door panels, front and rear center console drive shaft (4wd) door glass seat belt motors (retractable) both sides innner rear window panels, around glass too upper door glass seals headliner dash board, no cracks lower seat belts spare tire with cover rear tail lights with center section, center section has very small crack window motor and tracks, both sides visors defroster vent door threshold, both sides vanity light third brake light side mirrors passive belt control unit module ECU A11-000-R06 power window relay cont. unit h/low module distributor trip computer front kick panels heat ducts wiper switch steering lift handle rear view mirror moon roof and seal I believe I have the starter, will have to verify. bunch of relays rebuilt turbo EA82 motor most likely a couple more items. I do NOT have doors, fenders, motor, bumpers, wheels, exhaust or front axles. Email me at fdgwolfeboro@hotmail.com or call me at 603-715-5670. Remember I want to get these out of the basement and would love someone to buy the whole package. -
Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html -
Hey guys I want to build up a brat with a swapped ej22 turbo as a rally racer but was wondering how well they hold up and if the hatch or the wagon or anything i'm forgetting would be a better option. Also i just want to hear everyone's opinions.
-
I did some searching and found stuff stating that it can be done. but I've not found any proof of it being possible and what customizations have to be made. I've got the xt6 5 lug swap done. I know the outer front axles will work there. but the trans is a female not a male like the xt6 correct? I'm thinking I would have to run impreza axles. and then comes the gear ratio matching with the rear end and driveline length I believe is shorter. if anyone has any info on this I would love to hear it. I'm going to continue clicking on the search button in the meantime! forgot to mention I'm going to be doing a ej20t swap from a 94-96 sti
-
I've got a set of EA82 turbo heads off of my 1987 GL-10 wagon. Motor lost a rod bearing in the bottom end, but there was no sign of failure from the top end. Includes intake, fuel rails, etc.... Finally did the EJ22 swap after doing one on my Vanagon, so I don't need these goodies anymore! Make me an offer, I was thinking in the neighborhood of $100. I am in the Portland area if you want to pick them up, since the cost of shipping would be atrocious.
-
Hello everyone, new member, purchased a '92 Loyale wagon to get us up the mountain (and our driveway) in the winter. Car was running great for the first few weeks of ownership but just lately has started to run a little erratically. So far I've cleaned the MAF sensor and have installed a new WIX brand air filter from Napa. First start in the morning it used to run at a high idle until the accelerator pedal was depressed then settled into a lower idle, which from experience is how it should run. Reversing up to the driveway and then going up the driveway it ran great, no hesitation or stalling. Now when it's started in the morning it'll run high idle for about 10 seconds and want to cut out. After about 30 seconds warm up I go to reverse and it wants to die unless I keep the revs up and ride the clutch a little. Same going up the driveway it wants to cut out and hesitates. Also when driving around town it doesn't run smoothly, there's a distinct hesitation when accelerating which dissipates somewhat if you increase the revs before changing up gears. So I'm thinking possibly fuel filter clogged or possibly the TBI injector faulty or maybe the air bleed valve or similar is not working properly? Or could it be an electrical problem? Any guidance or suggestions much appreciated. -
My son and I got the tires and wheels on Smokey the Subaru. We bought a set of Toyota 15" steelies and re-drilled the rims. Re-drilling was made easier by using an old hub I had from replacing the front hubs last summer. I also created a template in Adobe Illustrator that I set up on the 4x140mm. I've attached it here for anyone else who wants to use it. subaru_lug_template.pdf Re-driling went pretty well. It was smarter to use about 5 different sizes before ending on the big 1/2" bit at the end of it all. RapidTap makes it a lot easier to get the job done! We got about a 2.5"-3" lift just from adding the wheels and tires. They're 235/60/15 snow tires we bought from a used tire place in Salem, Oregon. I had some tires to trade in from another rig and was able to get all 4 tires plus mounting and balancing for about $100 out of pocket. We went with snow tires because it's almost snowboard season around these parts and I'd rather have the studded snow tires on for his safety over mud traction right now. They certainly clog up with mud quickly but it's a sacrifice I'm willing to make. The front tire rubs on the front side of the fender ever-so-slightly when you turn the wheel about 20%. Beyond that though we haven't noticed any real issues. We'll likely trim the fender a bit but I'm not convinced I want to spend the money on a 2" lift right now. We'll see... Happy young man... -
I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers? -
So my 87 carb'd GL has had cooling system issues since I got it. Due to an old clogged radiator. couple weeks ago I broke some of the fins on that old radiator and it started leaking. This was my GL's first cooling system leak. Got around to replacing the radiator while on a trip in Pennsylvania. I noticed along the drive that when the system was topped up with coolant I would have James Bond types of smoke (steam) clouds coming out of the back of the car on the highway. That's no good, so I replaced the radiator while I was there. Problem solved right? No. On the drive back to Jersey I still had occasional giant clouds of smoke out the back of the car on the highway. WTF right? Car stayed cool on the highway, got hot on local roads. Got the car home, haven't touched it in a week till now. Dug in and found that one of the bypass hoses had ruptured. It was leaking coolant on to the intake manifold and it would pool and eventually spill over right on to the exhaust. There's my steam out the back of the car. Documenting this for anybody searching issues like that. Steam out the back of your car and you're sure your headgaskets are okay? Chances are it's one of the small bypass hoses. The one that ruptured was the one coming from the thermostat housing. I've got replacement hoses for that particular hose, as well as another bypass hose that runs from above the water pump and wraps back and down just behind the driver's side of the Craptachi. I'm also replacing that small 90 * hose that comes from the top of the water-pump as well. I do have a question though; considering I have my air-box off and all these vacuum lines exposed, I've been trying to find GD's guide on what I can get rid of and cap off. Can anybody help me out there? It's just the stock Hitachi on an EA82. Thanks in advance. I HATE cooling system problems. Ugh.
-
So, ive spent the last 2 weeks either waiting for parts or having to return parts because my local auto parts store always orders the wrong thing. Only to run into problems with the finished project... Here is the run down. Its an EA82 1985 subaru gl station wagon. Recent headgasket failure ( cracked heads ) non existent choke, and possibly a bad starter, and bad breaks. So i recently bought re manufactured heads, and a weber carb, and some shiny new brakes. My subi will be perfect after this! IF i can get it running. Here is what I'm 99% sure of. The cams are timed, the distributor is timed, ( enough to start ) and in correct rotation for TDC ( I have rotated it 180 degrees as i made that mistake and troubleshooted that issue. ) I have gas ( 2.5 psi worth from the fuel line ) I'm 90% sure i have no vacuum leak from the intake. as there is good vacuum there. I have excellent compression on all my heads. ( 120-140 ) So i think i have narrowed it down to spark. Which i have, on all wires but... The only thing i have to suspect is my ignition coil reads a little under spec, and my ignition control module reads as having interference. ( which it shouldn't ) But as i have spark im not sure if that matters. The other fishy thing is that my carb seems to spray alittle gas up through the choke butterfly as it turns over. It is so close to starting its not funny. But it just wont get there. Its just not catching/starting. Please help! I'm at wits end and i need this thing running before the end of the week. -
GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore! -
Hey all, I'm working on getting my 1987 XT turbo back in proper working condition. The car has the flapper style MAF but a spider manifold was retrofitted by a previous owner, so there are all kinds of wiring oddities I am still trying to sort out as I get it closer to running properly. It was pointed out to me that the knock sensor is currently disconnected; I looked for a pigtail to plug into it but couldn't find one. I did, however, find two broken wires coming out of the harness that crosses over the block...I checked my spare EA82T manifold as well as my ER27 and it looked like the knock sensor plug was a single-wire setup. So, does anyone know what those two wires might be for, and if they are not the knock sensor plug I am looking for, where would I find it on the harness? I haven't been able to find anything. Pics below for clarification. and the plug that appears correct on my spare manifold...
