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Found 184 results

  1. Any tips on adjusting the front door hinge? Mine are slightly worn and the door is hanging a little low, so that means I need to loosen the bolts going into the body and not the door. With the fender off it looks easy, but can you get a tool in there without removing the fender?
  2. like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM.
  3. So, I own a 1990 Loyale with push button 4wd. I want to lower it using coilovers or springs(if possible) from a 90's Impreza. Does anyone have experience with this, or other bolt-on/spring swap projects? I'm not looking to cut springs, OR buy 1800 dollar coils.. Help appreciated. thanks!
  4. Not sure if anyone here remembers when I last posted about my cold idle issue. Needless to say, it hasn't been fixed. I've been able to tolerate it the past few months, but now it's getting ridiculous. I've started taking auto tech classes, and my class starts at 7 am, so I have to deal with it every morning.... Please read everything carefully. Car is my '90 Loyale, EA82 N/A. The problem I have is when the car is cold, it doesn't want to idle. I start it up and have to rev it at 2000-3000 RPM for ~5 minutes before I can get it to idle at 500 or so. It's good enough to get going, so I leave. However, EVERY time I push in the clutch (or put it in neutral), the RPMs fall so fast that the engine stalls. When changing gears, this isn't a problem. But if I'm coming to a stop, I must heel-toe and feather the gas to keep it from stalling. Then, randomly, it'll idle normally. Just like if someone flipped a switch, it'll idle fine. It used to take 5 minutes or so before this happened, but now it takes up to 30 minutes!!! My school is about 30 minutes away, and sometimes I can go most of the trip there before it idles normally. Funny thing is, if I've been driving for 10 minutes or so, turn off the car, then turn it back on, it'll idle fine. For example, if I stop and get gas before school, it'll idle normally when I start it back up. The few minutes it takes to fill the tank is enough for the car to decide to idle. I know what you're thinking, it's the IACV or the CTS. I've replaced the CTS twice and the IACV twice. I've cleaned the IACV a few times, but it didn't help. The only part I've noticed that had a difference was the water pump. I swapped my longblock and it came with a new water pump on it. That water pump failed in 400 miles, but during that time, I never had an idle problem. I put my old water pump on and I soon saw the idle issue again. I've never heard of a water pump causing an idle issue, have you? Here are some of the things I've noticed: The issue doesn't seem to be related to weather much. It'll have more problems idling during the winter, but I still notice it during the summer. The issue doesn't seem to be related to how long the car has been sitting. I mean, if it's only been sitting for less than 3 hours, then it'll probably idle. But I've had it idle fine after sitting for 8 hours, and I've had it not idle at all after sitting for 4 hours. The issue doesn't seem to be related to coolant temperature. The temp gauge will reach it's normal range in a few minutes, but as stated before, sometimes it'll take 30 minutes before the car will idle. However, I believe once the temp gauge reads normal, I can turn the car off, sit for a minute, turn it back on, and it'll idle fine. In the video posted below, I took off the IACV hose with the engine running. Made no difference. Disconnected the CTS. No difference. Disconnected the IACV (electrically). No difference. I'll try the tests again with the engine warm, if that's when I'm supposed to do it. My CEL is on, but I believe it's for the purge and EGR solenoids, if I remember correctly. Been a while since I've checked; I'll check again. Anyways, any ideas? Please feel free to ask questions to help with diagnosis. Feel free to tell me any tests to do, and I'll do them (assuming I have the tools for it). When I posted this before, someone stated something about testing a pin on the connector on the ECU. I never got confirmation on what pin and what numbers I should be getting. I'm just kinda stumped as to what it could be, especially since the two most probable causes are not likely to be the problem. My gut feeling says it's an electrical problem, but I don't know where exactly to start with that. I really want to test and diagnose this, rather than doing the "shotgun" method to fixing it: throwing parts at the car hoping one will fix it. Here is the video that kinda shows the cold start. Before you say anything, the oil pressure gauge reads low; always has. And I did adjust my belts after the video. http://youtu.be/KwjWYgybeLc
  5. So recently I replaced the factory adjustables on my 86 EA82 wagon. I had the old adjustables cranked to the high setting to help clear my 215/70/15 tires. The new shocks had a spring perch that sat a bit lower, (3/4 in.) on the shock than were it was in the high position with the adjustables. So hears what I did to mimic the extra preload/height of the old ones using the new shocks. I did need a pair of old spring perches from another non-adustable EA82 shock set. lucky for me I've got tons of suba-spoob everywhere. here's the pics, pretty self explainitory New perch knocked off the new strut. Flipped over and slid back on Old set of perches slid on "correct" way to make lip to hold the spring Finished, spring perch raised about 3/4 inch from factory setting. Note this mod takes away a tiny bit of the "uptravel" of the shock. About 1/2 inch. Which for me is fine since I don't want the tire to be able to "stuff" too far into the wheel well and rub.
  6. Hey all. I was in a minor highway accident yesterday in my EA82. Nobody was hurt, and it was rather low speed, but I've bent my front left quarterpanel up and bent the valence under the bumper. The bumper itself is shifted to one side but it looks okay. I didn't even crack a headlight. However, it leaked coolant immediately after the collision, leading me to believe that the radiator took some damage. I assume this is from the valence under the bumper coming into contact with the radiator, and hopefully NOT from the center support. But on to my real question: I found a good fender/quarterpanel at a pick n' pull nearby, but didn't have the tools necessary to remove it with me at the time. What size are the bolts used to attach it this piece, and does anybody have a good writeup on replacing body panels? This will be my first wrenching on this car and I'm hoping for some guidance. Thanks! edited to add tags
  7. I haven't really seen any threads or pictures of Toyota inclinometers being installed into Subarus, so I figured I'd post. Today, I got in the mail an identical pair of these Toyota inclinometers: In case you don't know, here's some details on these gauges. Toyota sold them in their '84-'89 4WD pickups, 4Runners, and Tercels. But only on the SR5 models. The 4Runner inclinometer also came with an altimeter on the left, whereas the Tercel ones (like what I got) just had a 4WD indicator light that illuminated when 4WD was engaged. Near-new inclinometers go for ~$200 on eBay, so they're not necessarily cheap. Although I believe you can get them for real cheap at a junkyard, if you find an '80s SR5 4WD Toyota. If you don't know what an inclinometer is, it's basically a tilt gauge. One gauge tells you how angled up/down your vehicle is, and the other tells how banked your vehicle is (helps to avoid rollovers). Seeing as most of the people on here offroad, I'm sure most of you at least know what an inclinometer is. The nice thing about this one is it's entirely mechanical, besides the backlighting (and the 4WD indication light). Inside, it's basically just a set of gears and weights. Just like a Subaru, it's a pretty simple machine. When I first saw a picture of one of these, I thought they were really cool. I don't offroad to a point where rollovers and steep hills are a concern/possibility. But I thought it'd be cool to have one of these in the car, especially since it'd be another thing to make my car unique. So in this thread, I'll be posting about the installation of this, and I'd like to hear your guys' opinions. How do I put this in my Loyale? Well, that's a good question. It does have this "case" which is comfortably close in color to my car's interior. That flat spot on the EA82 dash would be a perfect place to put this. The only problem is that the flat spot isn't very big as you go towards the passenger side, so the only place the inclinometer fits is right in front of the clock. For most EA82 owners, this isn't a problem, since these clocks rarely work. However, since this is my daily driver, I do have a working clock in there, and I'd like to not cover it up. As you might be able to tell, there is a gap under the gauges, which is quite noticeable (and ugly) in person. However, the real problem with this setup though is the angle. I guess the Toyota dashboards are sloped, because sitting on the EA82 dash, the gauges are angled upwards. This is a problem for the pitch gauge, as you have to recalibrate it. But when you adjust it a lot, it's range gets screwed with. Properly adjusted, the pitch gauge reads about +/- 45 degrees. When I adjust it to compensate for the angle at which it's sitting in the above picture, the range is about + 75 degrees, -15 degrees. I have to get the gauges to sit flat for it to work properly. Easy solution is to pull it out of the case. This, as of right now, is how I'm going to install this. Reason being is it's short enough that I can still see the clock, flat enough for the readings to be good, and a good contact surface for me to put velcro down to hold it on the dash (I want this to be as minimally invasive/permanent as possible). The only problem with this setup is it's not super good looking, mainly because of the white case. Solution? Well, I decided to paint it black! Took out all the components of the inclinometer. Pretty simple. Time for paint! I'm just painting the outside of the case black. I'm leaving the interior of the case white because 1) it doesn't matter since you can't see it, and 2) I'm not sure, but the white might help with the illumination. Another thing is the wiring. For right now, I'm not going to wire up anything. I'm talking the bulbs/wires out. If I were to wire up the back illumination, I'd probably just tap into the cigarette lighter wires. I always drive with my headlights on, so they'd be illuminated all the time anyways. And the lighter is a switched power source, so it wouldn't drain power. Wiring up the 4WD light could also be a possibility, although I kinda see it as useless. What I'm thinking of doing is swapping the 4WD indicator light for another gauge--perhaps a voltmeter--since it wouldn't be hard to do so. But I won't worry about that for right now. That's as far as I have gotten so far. The perfect place to install this would be where the radio is, since it's the perfect width. But I have a working radio that I use all the time, so I won't be doing that. Interested in what you guys think, and maybe if you have done something like this before. I think it's a cool gadget, and I also read that it can be used as a g-meter. Accelerating/braking affects the pitch meter, and turning affects the roll meter. However, roads aren't perfectly flat, so it wouldn't be accurate. I'll post more as I make more progress. Currently waiting for the paint to dry, and it's not easy buying velcro at 10 pm, haha.
  8. The A/C compressor on my '89 RX has started to make a groaning noise when the clutch is engaged. When the A/C is off, there is no noise. It sounds like the bearing needs lubrication. When the engine revs the groaning increases. What is the easiest way to fix this? Should I add more R12 (I don't think it was ever converted to 134 previously and I have never touched it) or is there another way to relubricate the compressor? Could it be a belt tension issue? Understandably, I would like to avoid replacing the compressor.
  9. Well, it seems to have worked! For how it was done go to: http://www.nagara.co.uk/MakingBushes.htm They're not perfect but they're good enough for a top spring-damper mount.
  10. Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)
  11. I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
  12. zukiru

    my free 92 sedan.

    To make a long story short my uncle towed it in over a timing belt. They let him have it, cheap. And i got it for the scrap from a very worn ouT XT. one belt and a quart ATF (to stop the ticking), and I have a new daily driver.
  13. Hey fellow Subie fans, I'm going to be moving from Boulder, Colorado (near Denver) to Brooklyn, N.Y. (NYC...) and will be stopping by Denver's Subaru-filled junkyard on the way out to stock up on parts. Do any of you East Coast Subie people need anything while I'm there? If so, give me a call and we can work something out vis-a-vis shipping costs. You chipping in on gas (and maybe a little labor) will be hugely cheaper than having something shipped. Personally, I've had poor luck finding parts and parts cars on the East Coast (they all rusted to pieces years ago). But the Denver U Pull and Pay always has nearly a dozen GLs and Loyales in the yard. If you need something, give me a call at (757) 635-2136. I'll be in Denver until Friday afternoon (May 17, 2013). Cheers, Ben
  14. I have recently acquired a 94 loyale wagon. It has issues starting and running. It had stale gas in it i drained it out as best i could and put about 2 gallons back in it. it has new plugs good spark and 50lbs of fuel pressure but will not start easily at least. The only way i have been able to get it started is if i put a little gas into the throttle body unplug the injector solenoid turn it over for a minute then it will start to fire poorly at wich time i plug the solenoid back in and it will stay running poorly for a short period of time untill it dies. if i leave the injector solenoid plugged in itll turn and turn and it will act like it starts to fire then itll just continue turning over with no fire at all it seems like its flooding itself out but i honestly have no clue any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also it seems to help when you tap on the egr valve when try to start it.
  15. ford'ssubaru's

    Engine races

    Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
  16. ford'ssubaru's

    Engine races

    Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
  17. Hello All, I am posting in search of some help. I am currently helping a friend work on his 86 brat. Due to other issues and finding a new carb off a EA82 , we are replacing the intake and carb with that from a EA82. We removed the intake with no problem but the EGR piping that goes from the top of the block into the intake will not come unscrewed from the block. We have tried using a torch to heat it up and also penetrating spray. There also seems to be a case of 17mm being slightly big and 16mm being too small. This is the pipe we are doing with. I should note we do not particularly care about reconnecting the EGR as we also were able to get a very nicely machined block off for it from the EA82 intake. But the pipe still will pose an issue. Does anyone have a secret for taking this off or possibly going another route?
  18. Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
  19. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  20. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  21. i have a 1984 ea81 Brat with a 5 speed D/R transmission swap (removal of 4speed auto). the CV axles are going out which axles should i purchases? EA81 or EA82? The Subframe is original EA81, but the transmission is EA82.
  22. suprunner

    EJ swap, Harness question

    Hi, I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Also, what is the "Select Monitor Signal"? Necessary? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf
  23. Part Three of my Left-hand rear wheel-arch repair is now up at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch3.htm and there's a new pic on the bump-stop bracket page at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/Making%20a%20Bump.htm and, as usual the whole story menu is at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm This week I'll be doing all sorts of minor jobs to get the car ready for it's annual MOT test and hopefully I'll have the Honda in the workshop before the end of the month. After that, it'll be my 'secret' project - a prototype coupe based on a much-loved classic.
  24. Ok, so I've gotten some requests for crossmember spacers from some people who have installed my BOSS 2" suspension lift kits. I am testing the pond to see, if it is something enough people want then I will start offering an "upgrade kit" for those lifts, and it will also be available to order with a new kit. What it will be is 6 blocks, made of 1"x2 1/2" T6061 aluminum, plus all new bolts to install it. This will lower the engine and transmission crossmembers 1", improving the camber and prolonging the axle life. I have never had, nor heard of, any issues with the rear axles on a 2" lift, so no need to lower the rear subframe. Steering link not included, and you may or may not have to modify the shifter, sometimes it varies from car to car. Price of the "upgrade kit" will be $120 shipped in the US. Price of a new lift with the upgrade kit included will be $220 shipped in the US. Let me know if you want this, and I will order material and make it happen. I need at least 6 orders. Thanks! -Bill
  25. So I plan on replacing both front axles. I was wondering what you suggest that I should replace or inspect while I am doing this procedure. I was thinking about pads and rotors. Are there any other wear and tear items that I should be replacing while I have the axles out?