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So, I've been working on my suspension alot latetly. Got the rear super dialed in. 11 inches of travel!!! WOOT WOOT!! But now I need to work on the front. First try: This worked well for the upper shock mount, and the general location. Also, it was super easy to do by hammering a bolt between the channel that made the sway bar mount. Problem is, the bolts stick down low adn got hung up, also, I felt like my down travel was limited. So on to design # 2: I like this setup alot better. While doing this mod I also added 2" to the lift blocks on top of the struts. Also used some aftermarket springs that were on the a De-air suspesnsioned 92 Legacy. This combo is Muuy Bueno!!! 13 inches clearance at the Front Diff!! 4inches of travel Wish that was better, but I can certainly live with it. Questions? Comments? Pics of your mods? Discuss

Hello All, I am posting in search of some help. I am currently helping a friend work on his 86 brat. Due to other issues and finding a new carb off a EA82 , we are replacing the intake and carb with that from a EA82. We removed the intake with no problem but the EGR piping that goes from the top of the block into the intake will not come unscrewed from the block. We have tried using a torch to heat it up and also penetrating spray. There also seems to be a case of 17mm being slightly big and 16mm being too small. This is the pipe we are doing with. I should note we do not particularly care about reconnecting the EGR as we also were able to get a very nicely machined block off for it from the EA82 intake. But the pipe still will pose an issue. Does anyone have a secret for taking this off or possibly going another route?

Well, the dreaded happened the other day. I went to go check the fluids and this is what I ended up with! So I ordered the new cable online (Park Suabru, ordered it Sun night and arrived Tuesday morn. $14.23. :rock: ) Hood Release Cable, part number 57331GA122 But there was a major problem. How the *%&^ do I open the hood w/o destroying the grille, hood or other stuff. (If your hood is open, then skip ahead to the cable replacement part) Well, for those of us with large hands, an A/C condenser or want to just make it easy, the ever useful slim-jim to the rescue! It was as if this tool was made for this job.. Available at ANY auto parts stores, can be had for around 7 bucks and has helped me and MANY stranded people. (Disclaimer: Never use this tool for malicious use. With a great tool comes great responsibility) Coming from up under the bumper using the notched spade-head side (not the fishtail side), on the driver's side, in front of the A/C condenser, angle the slim-jim at a ~45 degree angle and starting just below the assembly, slide up behind the latch mechanism. Now while flexing the tool toward the grille and dragging it outward toward the headlight, you should feel it catch. This is the latch release. Continue to pull the tool horizontally (toward the headlight, not down toward the marker light/ground) until the hood releases. Viola! Here are some images once I felt the slim-jim catch the release lever. (grille removed for clarity) Under car, looking up. Now that the hood is open, we can get to work! So I started by releasing the 4 plastic anchor clips that hold the cable to the inner fender and core support. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the latch to the core support (you will need to do this if part of the cable is still attached AND to hook the new anchor into the mechanism when installing the new cable) backside with the cable anchor attached Remove the 2 screws holding the cable shield to the latch and the core support. (Set aside the latch) Near the cable end, remove the tear-drop bracket attached to the old cable (you will need to re-use this). Be gentle, it will butterfly apart and then set aside. With patience, work the cable through the pass-through in the core support, around the battery and under the strut tower support plate. Now feed the old cable through the rubber grommet on the driver's side firewall until approx 6-8" are left in the engine bay. Move to the inside. Using a phillips screwdriver, Undo the 2 screws holding the hood release cable bracket to the bulkhead. Once free, take the head of the new cable and tape to the old cable. Wrap several times so the head will not catch on any wires or insulation. Back into the engine bay. Gently peel back the rubber rectangle grommet and pull the old cable up through the grommet until the new cable attached to the old cable is visible. Undo the new cable from the old. Push the old cable back through the grommet completely. Push the new cable through the open hole in the grommet. Push the grommet back into place on the firewall. Make sure to massage the edges well to get a good seal. Water DOES like to nest up there... Back inside. Attach the new cable/bracket assembly back to the bulkhead. The screw holes were very easy to find. Back outside. Feed the new cable following the route the old one took (Under the strut tower support plate, along the inner fender, UNDER the body grounding cable, UNDER the coolant resevoir feed tube and back through the hole in the core support) Be sure to put the protective grommet back around the cable BEFORE you attach the cable anchor to the latch assembly. With the anchor in the cradle of the latch, attach the latch to the core support. Replace screws to the cable shield. Finally, anchor cable to sheetmetal with the plastic retainers. DO THIS STEP LAST. Once the cable has the plastic anchors on, it becomes NEARLY impossible to slide the cable in the retainers. Test pull a few times checking for binding, lack of return or general badness (yeah, it's a word. ) BEFORE closing the hood. If all is good, close the hood to check for binding or excessive force. Grab a beer and enjoy the luxury of having a cable operated hood latch once again!

Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg

i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.

i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.

To make a long story short my uncle towed it in over a timing belt. They let him have it, cheap. And i got it for the scrap from a very worn ouT XT. one belt and a quart ATF (to stop the ticking), and I have a new daily driver.

i have a 1984 ea81 Brat with a 5 speed D/R transmission swap (removal of 4speed auto). the CV axles are going out which axles should i purchases? EA81 or EA82? The Subframe is original EA81, but the transmission is EA82.

Well, it seems to have worked! For how it was done go to: http://www.nagara.co.uk/MakingBushes.htm They're not perfect but they're good enough for a top spring-damper mount.

Hi, I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Also, what is the "Select Monitor Signal"? Necessary? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

Part Three of my Left-hand rear wheel-arch repair is now up at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch3.htm and there's a new pic on the bump-stop bracket page at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/Making%20a%20Bump.htm and, as usual the whole story menu is at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm This week I'll be doing all sorts of minor jobs to get the car ready for it's annual MOT test and hopefully I'll have the Honda in the workshop before the end of the month. After that, it'll be my 'secret' project - a prototype coupe based on a much-loved classic.

Ok, so I've gotten some requests for crossmember spacers from some people who have installed my BOSS 2" suspension lift kits. I am testing the pond to see, if it is something enough people want then I will start offering an "upgrade kit" for those lifts, and it will also be available to order with a new kit. What it will be is 6 blocks, made of 1"x2 1/2" T6061 aluminum, plus all new bolts to install it. This will lower the engine and transmission crossmembers 1", improving the camber and prolonging the axle life. I have never had, nor heard of, any issues with the rear axles on a 2" lift, so no need to lower the rear subframe. Steering link not included, and you may or may not have to modify the shifter, sometimes it varies from car to car. Price of the "upgrade kit" will be $120 shipped in the US. Price of a new lift with the upgrade kit included will be $220 shipped in the US. Let me know if you want this, and I will order material and make it happen. I need at least 6 orders. Thanks! -Bill

Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)

THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.

The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.

This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"

First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.

I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those "Standard" wheels in my Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for almost the whole afternoon... even we ate lunch Together. He said that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Subaru Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also some sort of museum and many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was ready to be sold since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of the first prototype of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted to have a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" propulsion for that Model, and the Developments were going on that Way, having the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer who demanded \ wanted / needed more power from their compact cars. They Already got the EA81 that was a 1.8L engine so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive, and built to stay that way' broke part of their enthusiasm as the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption numbers in EPA charts and somehow increasing import taxes... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo as they where already selling Turbo MPFi versions of the EA81 in Japan since late 1982. So, the Japaneses downgraded the Prototype EA91 engine by destroking it, and Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was limited to the implementation of Timing Belts ... ... and using the SOHC designation which was in fashion, along with the "Turbo" word, on the 80's. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but the one about the 2.0L EA engine in the Original Prototypes (Codenamed EA91) of the Third Gen Leone, was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and an awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the 4x140 Lug Pattern, redrilling the hubs to let fit "Standard" 4x114.3 wheels on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.

Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Hi All! ... ... Please Correct me if I'm Wrong, this is for my EA82 Wagon. if I Have a PCV Setup like This one... (This Awesome Clean EA82 Engine Belongs to Kanurys) ...and my EA82 is Blowin' Oil thru the PCV setup, I Must install an Oil Catch Can, Right? Recently I Obtained an Oil Catch Can that Looks similar to This one: The Questions Are: Should I Hook it Between the Driver's side Head Hose and the PCV intake Valve, isn't it? The Passenger's Side Hose Doesn't need any Oil Catch Can 'cos it will only "Suck" Air from the Air Filter's Box, at the Carb... isn't it? Any Suggestion, advice or Idea will be Greatly Appreciated. Kind Regards.

This year my Family and I celebrate my Subie's 25 Year Anniversary! My Dad teached me Mechanics since I was a Very Young Child... I Started Learnin' in my 1969 Mercury Comet Coupe, which by the way, reached 40 Years in my Family last Year... You can see Pics & info of it, ~► Here. My Dad Purchased The Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' from there to my Country... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! Some Old Pictures that I've Scanned: In this old Pictures, The Front Rims came from a Subaru XT and the Rear Ones, which are much Wider; came from a Renault. (Cheviot Brand ~ Made in France ~ 4X140) Actually I Changed all those for a complete Set of Newer Rims, by changin' the Lug Pattern. The Odometer is About to Reach 300,000 Miles without Changin' Almost anything inside the Engine, except: Head Gaskets (a Couple of Times), Valve's Seals, the Heads themselves, and the Oil Pump so far... But Outside the Engine I've installed a Weber Carb, plus a Different vacuum advance on the Disty and it has a Free Flow Exhaust, plus Lots of Changes in the Rest of the Car... Here you can See it Parked next to my Other Wagon (The 2.7 wagon, now wrecked) I have been in this site since Year 2001, So I am Reaching this year 25 Years of Being a Huge Subaru Fan, and almost 10 Years to be in this Great Club! ... ... I Must say that I've Learned Many of my Subie Repairs Here, without this Amazing Club I would done many Mistakes ... Also I've Shared my Own Ideas & Experiences on How to do Many Repairs and to do some Improvements to our Beloved Old School Subarus, Posting my Writeups Full of Pics & Detailed info in the ~► USRM. During this Time and with the Kind Help of other USMB Members, I Compiled a Database of All Subarus made & Prototypes, which can be Viewed ~► Here, where you can Find Rare Models like this one: Rare Options, like a Digital Dashboard's Buttons, like the ones in this Pic: Or the Complete List of Subaru Prototypes, with Pics & info: And More Strange & Weird Subaru Stuff! ... ... Like the Subaru "Royale" which is a Stretched XT6 ... Please visit that Thread for Further Details & info. So the Purpose of This Thread is to Say: Thank you So Much to all of You here, in USMB; for being Always So Kind & Helpful! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Links and add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Suspension Improvements For the third Gen Subaru Leone (also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale, Vortex and even as Isuzu Gemminett II, depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.) However, since the Second Gen Subaru Leone (EA81 / Brat) uses the same diameter and tall coil springs on the Front, being different on their spring rate and load rates only; you can use the third gen Leone's (EA82) coil springs on the second gen Leones (EA81), also you can use the Alternative coil springs from another automotive makes, which I mention here, on the second gen Leones, but their suspension could get way too stiff and might need a small cut off on the coil spring's wire, to work. Remember: going too weak or too stiff on the suspension on any car, could make you loose control of it, mainly on irregular terrains, so this could be Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Disclaimer: Use this information, and All the information I post, at your own Risk! Introduction: Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, Stiffer. The modifications written here, has been tested with great results on the third gen Leone (EA82) Wagon only. My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon EA82 new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs on it since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, things which I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin! In this Writeup: ► Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs. ► Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars. ► Their part numbers. ► Photos. First Part: modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts: About The REAR Suspension: In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye... Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie: The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)... ...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised, two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass. So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring. 2WD .Vs. 4WD ► Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base. Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches. Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber, with Part Number and KYB equivalence: The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230 But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear. Chapter 1: How to Improve the Rear Suspension: First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements: I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo: Honduran “Yonkers” are different from the regular “PaP” (pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in “Areas” so, you can find in a Latin American “Yónker”, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American “Yonker” (Junk Yard): I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities. The variables that I compare, are their Measurements, Spring Rates, Load Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised. So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt. The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones. The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is: ~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers? My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution: To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones! (Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...) As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon. (Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo) The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: ~► KYB 341232 in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market). The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers... According to online databases, it does interchange with: ~► Monroe D8344 ~► Sachs 230631 ~► BOGE 27-D67-A I Tested the KYB 341232 only, any other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear, since many, many years ago... ...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel. (as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3") But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above. In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models, here is the Factory Guide about how to do that: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration. ► LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed. About The FRONT Suspension: The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast", new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers: Passenger Side: ~► 71876 .................Driver Side: ~► 71877 Chapter 2: How to Improve the Front Suspension: Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension). Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight. So, using "my own method" which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire. I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications. ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse... Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here. (thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs, So those should be: ~► MOOG CC854 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775375 for "Napa" Brand. These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift, as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru. Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you: They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities: Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia. The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder, with the stiffer suspension. Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc... ...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before. I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways... ...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads... ...and it Feels Really AWESOME! ... ... but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore. Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!

As Many of you already know, I Travel too often and Usually I got a Camera nearby... Last travel I saw a Nice Subaru Loyale Sedan, dark grey and its Rear Part was too High than its Front, then I Noticed something "Wrong" with it. See: Well... it is not "Wrong", Just Unusual to see a Loyale's Rear Looking just like my 1969 Mercury Comet: With a Solid Axle big Diff and Leaf Springs Sorry: I Couldn't obtain better Pics, it was Late Afternoon and I Think I Scared the Driver, 'cos after the Third pic I Take, he did run more Faster... and I Slowed down to let him go in Peace... I Wish I Could ask him more Details of the Swap, but I Think it is a Rear Diff + Springs that came from a Toyota Corolla (1983 Wagon?) Nice Swap Idea, if you Consider that Good Quality Axles are Dissapearing and Poor Quality -ussualy Chinese- Brands are taking the Market... Also FWD Axles trend to fail too Often in our Roads. What do you Think About this? Could it be a Good Idea to make a Car More Reliable / Cheap to Drive \ Easy to Maintain? Kind Regards.

Well... it all Started one Weekend, my Dad took the Yellow Wagon to do a Short trip, and he stopped at a Gas station for some gas, then at its food mart for some snacks. While he was sat on the car, correctly Parked at the Food Mart, talkin' by Cellphone, someone drunk driver did side hit the front bumper very Fast... and this is the Result: The Damage wasn't much bigger, due to the fact that the bumper was already reinforced with Fiberglass and some added metal assist points, but the car moved around a feet horizontally with the side hit. Well... dad just got a li'l Head's hit, but he's Fine, O.K. Now ... but my Yellow Wagon's front Bumper was in very sad conditions... So, I went home (I work soo far away for now) to do the Repair, and I asked a friend who is a Good Fiberglass Artisan, to help me with such material. First, we took out the Front Bumper. This is a Detailed view of the Damage, includin' some Li'l twist on it's Metallic Base. Then, we started to remove out the old finish material and we Dissasembled it, Repairin' the Li'l Twist on its Base, and Reinforced it with more metallic assist points, a pair of `em did bypass the original plastic cover, The idea is to hold very firm that plastic cover to the Metallic base. We needed to cut down the Remainin' Reinforcement points... ...This is my Friend, doin' that. Then, We used sandpaper and covered it with the Fiberglass. Fiberglass comes like a Fiber Fabric, just cut the pieces you want, and then Spread all over it a Epoxy Compound, mixed with Hardener... Many coats of that Epoxy / Fiber, like you're makin' a Lasagna! Then, we used Sandpaper on the Already Dryed Fiberglass (untill Next day's Afternoon, to be Sure that was completely Cured) And Covered it with Flex. You can Notice a Li'l bit the Heads of the Metallic Assist points, and the Licence Plate's Screws, that comin' from behind the Bumper. This is how it ended lookin` at my Friend`s Repair Shop: (he did help me with fiberglass, I Prepared and Painted it) And Finally, This is the Results: My Yellow Wagon's Smile is Back! ... ... I Love it! The Bumper was Clean, while the Rest of the car was Dirty... But it Looks Soo Good! Well... I Hope this Idea could help those who want to Repair or Improve the Lookin' of their Car's Bumpers... Next to Do: a Hood Scoop... "the InterFooler" ...Comin' Soon! Kind Regards.

Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure