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Found 174 results

  1. I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
  2. zukiru

    my free 92 sedan.

    To make a long story short my uncle towed it in over a timing belt. They let him have it, cheap. And i got it for the scrap from a very worn ouT XT. one belt and a quart ATF (to stop the ticking), and I have a new daily driver.
  3. Hey fellow Subie fans, I'm going to be moving from Boulder, Colorado (near Denver) to Brooklyn, N.Y. (NYC...) and will be stopping by Denver's Subaru-filled junkyard on the way out to stock up on parts. Do any of you East Coast Subie people need anything while I'm there? If so, give me a call and we can work something out vis-a-vis shipping costs. You chipping in on gas (and maybe a little labor) will be hugely cheaper than having something shipped. Personally, I've had poor luck finding parts and parts cars on the East Coast (they all rusted to pieces years ago). But the Denver U Pull and Pay always has nearly a dozen GLs and Loyales in the yard. If you need something, give me a call at (757) 635-2136. I'll be in Denver until Friday afternoon (May 17, 2013). Cheers, Ben
  4. I have recently acquired a 94 loyale wagon. It has issues starting and running. It had stale gas in it i drained it out as best i could and put about 2 gallons back in it. it has new plugs good spark and 50lbs of fuel pressure but will not start easily at least. The only way i have been able to get it started is if i put a little gas into the throttle body unplug the injector solenoid turn it over for a minute then it will start to fire poorly at wich time i plug the solenoid back in and it will stay running poorly for a short period of time untill it dies. if i leave the injector solenoid plugged in itll turn and turn and it will act like it starts to fire then itll just continue turning over with no fire at all it seems like its flooding itself out but i honestly have no clue any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also it seems to help when you tap on the egr valve when try to start it.
  5. ford'ssubaru's

    Engine races

    Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
  6. ford'ssubaru's

    Engine races

    Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
  7. Hello All, I am posting in search of some help. I am currently helping a friend work on his 86 brat. Due to other issues and finding a new carb off a EA82 , we are replacing the intake and carb with that from a EA82. We removed the intake with no problem but the EGR piping that goes from the top of the block into the intake will not come unscrewed from the block. We have tried using a torch to heat it up and also penetrating spray. There also seems to be a case of 17mm being slightly big and 16mm being too small. This is the pipe we are doing with. I should note we do not particularly care about reconnecting the EGR as we also were able to get a very nicely machined block off for it from the EA82 intake. But the pipe still will pose an issue. Does anyone have a secret for taking this off or possibly going another route?
  8. Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
  9. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  10. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
  11. i have a 1984 ea81 Brat with a 5 speed D/R transmission swap (removal of 4speed auto). the CV axles are going out which axles should i purchases? EA81 or EA82? The Subframe is original EA81, but the transmission is EA82.
  12. suprunner

    EJ swap, Harness question

    Hi, I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Also, what is the "Select Monitor Signal"? Necessary? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf
  13. Part Three of my Left-hand rear wheel-arch repair is now up at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch3.htm and there's a new pic on the bump-stop bracket page at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/Making%20a%20Bump.htm and, as usual the whole story menu is at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm This week I'll be doing all sorts of minor jobs to get the car ready for it's annual MOT test and hopefully I'll have the Honda in the workshop before the end of the month. After that, it'll be my 'secret' project - a prototype coupe based on a much-loved classic.
  14. Ok, so I've gotten some requests for crossmember spacers from some people who have installed my BOSS 2" suspension lift kits. I am testing the pond to see, if it is something enough people want then I will start offering an "upgrade kit" for those lifts, and it will also be available to order with a new kit. What it will be is 6 blocks, made of 1"x2 1/2" T6061 aluminum, plus all new bolts to install it. This will lower the engine and transmission crossmembers 1", improving the camber and prolonging the axle life. I have never had, nor heard of, any issues with the rear axles on a 2" lift, so no need to lower the rear subframe. Steering link not included, and you may or may not have to modify the shifter, sometimes it varies from car to car. Price of the "upgrade kit" will be $120 shipped in the US. Price of a new lift with the upgrade kit included will be $220 shipped in the US. Let me know if you want this, and I will order material and make it happen. I need at least 6 orders. Thanks! -Bill
  15. So I plan on replacing both front axles. I was wondering what you suggest that I should replace or inspect while I am doing this procedure. I was thinking about pads and rotors. Are there any other wear and tear items that I should be replacing while I have the axles out?
  16. This year my Family and I celebrate my Subie's 25 Year Anniversary! My Dad teached me Mechanics since I was a Very Young Child... I Started Learnin' in my 1969 Mercury Comet Coupe, which by the way, reached 40 Years in my Family last Year... You can see Pics & info of it, ~► Here. My Dad Purchased The Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' from there to my Country... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! Some Old Pictures that I've Scanned: In this old Pictures, The Front Rims came from a Subaru XT and the Rear Ones, which are much Wider; came from a Renault. (Cheviot Brand ~ Made in France ~ 4X140) Actually I Changed all those for a complete Set of Newer Rims, by changin' the Lug Pattern. The Odometer is About to Reach 300,000 Miles without Changin' Almost anything inside the Engine, except: Head Gaskets (a Couple of Times), Valve's Seals, the Heads themselves, and the Oil Pump so far... But Outside the Engine I've installed a Weber Carb, plus a Different vacuum advance on the Disty and it has a Free Flow Exhaust, plus Lots of Changes in the Rest of the Car... Here you can See it Parked next to my Other Wagon (The 2.7 wagon, now wrecked) I have been in this site since Year 2001, So I am Reaching this year 25 Years of Being a Huge Subaru Fan, and almost 10 Years to be in this Great Club! ... ... I Must say that I've Learned Many of my Subie Repairs Here, without this Amazing Club I would done many Mistakes ... Also I've Shared my Own Ideas & Experiences on How to do Many Repairs and to do some Improvements to our Beloved Old School Subarus, Posting my Writeups Full of Pics & Detailed info in the ~► USRM. During this Time and with the Kind Help of other USMB Members, I Compiled a Database of All Subarus made & Prototypes, which can be Viewed ~► Here, where you can Find Rare Models like this one: Rare Options, like a Digital Dashboard's Buttons, like the ones in this Pic: Or the Complete List of Subaru Prototypes, with Pics & info: And More Strange & Weird Subaru Stuff! ... ... Like the Subaru "Royale" which is a Stretched XT6 ... Please visit that Thread for Further Details & info. So the Purpose of This Thread is to Say: Thank you So Much to all of You here, in USMB; for being Always So Kind & Helpful! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Links and add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
  17. THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.
  18. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    How to Easily Test an Ignition Module

    The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.
  19. As Many of you already know, I Travel too often and Usually I got a Camera nearby... Last travel I saw a Nice Subaru Loyale Sedan, dark grey and its Rear Part was too High than its Front, then I Noticed something "Wrong" with it. See: Well... it is not "Wrong", Just Unusual to see a Loyale's Rear Looking just like my 1969 Mercury Comet: With a Solid Axle big Diff and Leaf Springs Sorry: I Couldn't obtain better Pics, it was Late Afternoon and I Think I Scared the Driver, 'cos after the Third pic I Take, he did run more Faster... and I Slowed down to let him go in Peace... I Wish I Could ask him more Details of the Swap, but I Think it is a Rear Diff + Springs that came from a Toyota Corolla (1983 Wagon?) Nice Swap Idea, if you Consider that Good Quality Axles are Dissapearing and Poor Quality -ussualy Chinese- Brands are taking the Market... Also FWD Axles trend to fail too Often in our Roads. What do you Think About this? Could it be a Good Idea to make a Car More Reliable / Cheap to Drive \ Easy to Maintain? Kind Regards.
  20. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    EA82 to ER27 Swap

    First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.
  21. I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those Rims in the Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for around a Couple of Hours... even we ate lunch Together. Resulted that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was selling in Japan since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of first Launch of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" Engine for that Model and the Very First Developments were going on that Way, With the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer. They Already got the EA81 that was 1.8L so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive and built to stay that way' the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo. So, the Japaneses Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was the new implementation of Timing Belts. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but that about the 2.0L EA engine was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and a awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the Lug Pattern, to fit "Standard" Rims on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.
  22. Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
  23. Well... it all Started one Weekend, my Dad took the Yellow Wagon to do a Short trip, and he stopped at a Gas station for some gas, then at its food mart for some snacks. While he was sat on the car, correctly Parked at the Food Mart, talkin' by Cellphone, someone drunk driver did side hit the front bumper very Fast... and this is the Result: The Damage wasn't much bigger, due to the fact that the bumper was already reinforced with Fiberglass and some added metal assist points, but the car moved around a feet horizontally with the side hit. Well... dad just got a li'l Head's hit, but he's Fine, O.K. Now ... but my Yellow Wagon's front Bumper was in very sad conditions... So, I went home (I work soo far away for now) to do the Repair, and I asked a friend who is a Good Fiberglass Artisan, to help me with such material. First, we took out the Front Bumper. This is a Detailed view of the Damage, includin' some Li'l twist on it's Metallic Base. Then, we started to remove out the old finish material and we Dissasembled it, Repairin' the Li'l Twist on its Base, and Reinforced it with more metallic assist points, a pair of `em did bypass the original plastic cover, The idea is to hold very firm that plastic cover to the Metallic base. We needed to cut down the Remainin' Reinforcement points... ...This is my Friend, doin' that. Then, We used sandpaper and covered it with the Fiberglass. Fiberglass comes like a Fiber Fabric, just cut the pieces you want, and then Spread all over it a Epoxy Compound, mixed with Hardener... Many coats of that Epoxy / Fiber, like you're makin' a Lasagna! Then, we used Sandpaper on the Already Dryed Fiberglass (untill Next day's Afternoon, to be Sure that was completely Cured) And Covered it with Flex. You can Notice a Li'l bit the Heads of the Metallic Assist points, and the Licence Plate's Screws, that comin' from behind the Bumper. This is how it ended lookin` at my Friend`s Repair Shop: (he did help me with fiberglass, I Prepared and Painted it) And Finally, This is the Results: My Yellow Wagon's Smile is Back! ... ... I Love it! The Bumper was Clean, while the Rest of the car was Dirty... But it Looks Soo Good! Well... I Hope this Idea could help those who want to Repair or Improve the Lookin' of their Car's Bumpers... Next to Do: a Hood Scoop... "the InterFooler" ...Comin' Soon! Kind Regards.
  24. Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.
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