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Showing results for tags 'EA82T'.
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I have recently acquired an '88 GL, my first Subaru, and am looking for a D/R transmission. My understanding is that there were a few models offered. The most highly desired is the trans with a separate lever to shift 4H and 4L. If you are looking at the tranny, is there an obvious way to tell between the two? Anything that a vin number would tell you? I have been using sites such as partshotline.com and car-part.com as there are practically no Subarus, let alone of that era, in the junkyards around here. Most places i have called have the parts out of the car, and arent able to tell me which style of tranny they have. They just have them listed as 5sp, dual range, non-turbo/turbo. I found a non-turbo tranny that came out of a low mile car ~70k for relatively cheap ($250 shipped) but they have no idea which style it is. Also - my car is a turbo EA82 - what are the differences between the turbo and non-turbo trans? The turbo trans are full time 4wd? Please excuse my ignorance - i am a new, excited member of the Subaru world. Thanks in advance for your help guys. I have a 3" lift on the way from Highguyslifts and got a set of 6 lug wheels that i am cleaning up. I am planning to redrill my hubs when i get the lift in order to run the toyota wheels. I am super pumped about this car. The D/R tranny will be my last mod for a while as i am quickly running out of money! -
so recently ive noticed a weird vibration on the passenger side (right front) in my 87 GL Turbo wagon if i turn left at speeds over 50mph. it has a s/r part time 4wd 5spd. i recently replaced the cv axle, wheel bearings, and ball joint. and when i changed the axle i realized that the inner cv joint can move around a bit, what im wondering is if its a bearing on the output shaft or just that its really worn out. and how hard it is to replace/change it thanks everyone -
EA82T - Boost but no power gain
BoostedBoxer421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
so ive searched all I could on this and have gone over a lot of different possibilities of what it could be; new plugs, wires, cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, and MAF sensor. I haven't changed anything recently except for putting a new up-pipe to turbo to replace one with broken flange. it spools up just as fast but it seems like I'm not getting any power from the boost, almost like its bogging down.. if I floor it at 60 in 5th it slows down, but if I ease into it I barely have the same acceleration as my brother's weberized ea82 Im stumped here and can only hope its a mystery vacuum leak somewhere lol any suggestions?? -
so recently ive been driving my turbo wagon daily, and now whenever i put gas into it or go up a steep hill and the gas gauge moves it dies when it dies i know its something electrical because i cant pop start it and the tach wont move when starter is running, but it'll start after a few minutes and i know when its about to start because the tach starts to jump when trying to start it ive never heard of anything like this before, so i was hoping someone may have had the same problem before and might know what to do. has been really frustrating lately
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Does anyone have a reccomendation for a good 185/70R13 tire? I need to replace the old winter tires on my GL Coupe, but I'm not sure which. Right now I have it narrowed down to Epic Tour A/T or Aspen Touring A/S from Big-O, but I don't like the sound of either one. I'd also like to stay below $400 for mount+balance+alignment, so around $75 per tire max. I will be keeping at least two of the winter tires to put on the front when it gets bad here again. On a side note, what did these come with from the factory?
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1987.5 -EA82T- fuel pump relay?
BoostedBoxer421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
hey everyone, this has been happening every time I start my 87.5 GL turbo recently.. as soon as I turn the ignition on to pressurize fuel, there's a relay above the boost solenoid that steadily clicks and keeps the pump going and doesn't stop pumping until I start it. I don't know what it is but would assume its the fuel pump relay since my 87.1 RX doesn't get fuel unless I use the one from my GL. what I'm trying to find out is where I can get one, because everywhere I've searched I cannot find it. the only numbers/letters on it are- JECS A15-000R00 (stamped) and 7413NA (black ink) -
hey there everyone, so I did a timing belt job on my '87 GL turbo the other day after the passenger side belt broke. after I had everything back together and lined up correctly, (99.9% sure in my mechanic/automotive skills ) and there was I REALLY bad clicking coming from the passenger side #3 cylinder (back passenger side).... in knowing I had everything aligned and set up correctly I let it run for about 4 er 5 minutes and the sound is completely gone want this car to last a long time so just wondering what could have caused this or what could have gone wrong with a breaking t-belt thanks everyone, hope my 87 wagon continues on its 231,000 mile streak
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need help with vacuum lines on an California 88 GL 4X4 5speed. The vacuum lines im needing help with are the far left on the vapor canister. the bottom line on the Cruise control unit. and 2 random lines i dont know about. along with where to place the check valve and T's
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i know its been discussed a few times before on here, but just wondering the difference between the 1/2/3 gen heads for an EA82T other than just the composition of the metal??? what brought up the question is that i noticed the metal oil line from the head going in/out of the turbo is different between 1st and 2nd gen my 87 GL Turbo has 2nd gen heads w/235,000 miles and 87 RX Turbo has 1st gen heads w/245,000 miles 1st has ea82 with no marks 2nd has ea82 underlined 3rd has ea82 boxed in
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HEy all, I was trying to fins out is it possible to entirely swap out the ea82 engine and replace it with ANYTHING, other than an old model engine. Price is whatever, meaning if the Trans has to be new too, thats cool i just want to know about size and a secure safe fit. Thanks. -
Alright, so I finally made the purchase of the 1986 GL coupe, however it seems like it doesn't want to idle now, even though it ran perfectly two weeks ago. I have to give it throttle or it will die. It's also running rich, but it was doing this two weeks ago as well. So far I've heard that the MAF and IAT sensors might be dirty and that it might be a vacuum leak. Any other ideas?
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Hi, I have an '87 GL Turbo, and if I floor it or pump the accelerator between 2.5k and 4.5k it starts to miss and sputter, but if I gaive it say 3/4 throttle, it will rev up perfect My first thought was the intake was leaking because it started in boost range (boost light comes on at 2k every time) but can't find any leaks.. Timing advance? Bad pcv letting air in before turbo? Maf sensor? Idk what to check now.. -Thanks fer any help! Just got two feet of snow at my house and my wagon still goes anywhere!
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I did a bit of searching and couldn't find much about this topic - so i shall ask. I have an 88 GL Turbo and eventually want to re-route the exhaust as i am lifting the car, and i want to upgrade the exhaust. When i do this, i want to put a high flow cat and possibly a magna flow muffler. I also plan to bump up to 2.25" or 2.5" pipe. Has anyone out there upgraded the exhaust on an EA82T? What did you use? Pipe diameter?? - this is my main concern as i know a high flow cat is a high flow cat, and mufflers are pretty much a preference for sound etc. Any suggestions would be stellar. My goal is to boost performance a bit and to make that little EA82T boxer sound good. Cheers Nate
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i've recently acquired an 87 RX turbo and it wasnt in running condition. had to get replacement MAF sensor and fuel pump and filter as soon as i tried to get it started i could tell it was trying to fire then all i could smell was varnished gas.. so its been sitting for a while if i pour good gas into throttle body it will fire up for a second, but now that i have good gas in the tank and lines with new filter it doesnt seem to get any gas to the injectors. somewhere between filter and injectors??
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I have a Rx with ea82t and Gl with ea82t, and was wondering if anybody knew any differences between the engines. First thing I noticed was that the Rx's wastegate goes directly to intake, and on the Gl the wastegate hose goes to a switch then another goes to intake
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so ive been looking into dependability of my ea82t, and was wondering if anyone has ever used the ea82t dual intake mpfi heads for a dual 2 barrel carb set up obviously would require mods to distributor and fuel system, but would it be worth the conversion for the dependability of being carbed instead of turbocharged
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Hi there - soob newb here. New on the forum as well - Nice to meet you all! I am currently driving a Corolla AllTrac Wagon - that is for sale to fund my next project (an 80's Subaru wagon). And this will be my first Subaru. I am currently looking for one - and boy are they hard to come by that aren't rusted to smithereens here in the salt belt. I found one not too far from here - 88 GL-10 with EA82T. 110k miles w/ 5 speed - blown head gaskets per usual. Car was driven by an elderly couple - interior 9/10. Factory roof rack. On factory steel 13s with good tires. Runs as it sits. Body is in pretty good shape - less rust than most in these parts. Rear wheel wells are the most of it. Some rust underneath, nothing that can't be worked with. Rockers are solid - car honestly looks fairly clean for the year (living most of it's life in the midwest) The guy is asking $1000 for it, which seems a bit high to me, but with my minimal knowledge about these cars, i figured i would go to the master resource. Another thing that concerns me is the turbo motor. Historically, are there any added issues to having the EA82T vs the non turbo EA82? Any reason why i should pass and wait for a non turbo? What are the +/- of having the turbo EA82? I am going to check it out in person this weekend (pics and info from current owner) - anything i should look for in particular? What would you guys pay for such a rig? Any input would help - i am stoked to have potentially found a 88 GL wagon in pretty damn good shape. Let me know what you think! Thanks!
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Hey all, I'm working on getting my 1987 XT turbo back in proper working condition. The car has the flapper style MAF but a spider manifold was retrofitted by a previous owner, so there are all kinds of wiring oddities I am still trying to sort out as I get it closer to running properly. It was pointed out to me that the knock sensor is currently disconnected; I looked for a pigtail to plug into it but couldn't find one. I did, however, find two broken wires coming out of the harness that crosses over the block...I checked my spare EA82T manifold as well as my ER27 and it looked like the knock sensor plug was a single-wire setup. So, does anyone know what those two wires might be for, and if they are not the knock sensor plug I am looking for, where would I find it on the harness? I haven't been able to find anything. Pics below for clarification. and the plug that appears correct on my spare manifold... -
Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory. -
just for kicks, I thought I would share my et on my 86 rx sedan bone stock launching in low range 60ft- 2.08 1/4 mile- 16.4 mph - 77
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I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
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In my years of research on here and working on these cars, I have in my head that EA82s have a VF-7 and EA81s have a VF-4 then early Leggys get a VF-11. If that is wrong we can end the discussion. It is also my understanding that the EA81T VF-4 was oil-cooled only. Well, I pulled the turbo from my 88 RX. The unit is clearly marked as VF-4, and it is water-cooled. I'm pretty sure that it is the same turbo that came in the RX with ~120k miles. The previous owner had it for a couple years and thought that it was an original motor. It could be from a different EA82, or maybe bonus junk from another car purchase, but I'm pretty sure it was my first one and daily driver. Could it be a rebuilt VF-7 with a VF-4 compressor housing (where the marking are)? One of my motors is one of the JDM imports, could it be a JDM-only legit water-cooled VF-4?
