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Showing results for tags 'ECU'.
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I've got a couple of strange questions. I've got a 2000 OBS w/ standard transmission and was wondering if there is a sensor telling the computer what gear the car is in. I was thinking it's pretty unlikely but was just curious. If so is it possible to get this information from the computer to an external circuit? Does the computer read the tach? Again, if so is it possible to get this info from the computer to an external circuit? Thanks in advance. Jimbo -
So, I'm wondering about the potential of using a stock ECU for an engine swap. Does anyone know what would be required to use the stock ECU for a 2007 ez30r in a different vehicle? has anyone tried to swap this engine and had results with said stock ECU? I've heard that there might be a bunch of issues with regard to the fact that there wouldn't be a bunch of sensors that the ECU would expect to be present, but I'd REALLY love to save the $2200 that would be potentially spent on a aftermarket ECU (I'm considering the Haltech p2000 sport since it looks like it can run the AVCS programs) Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
Hello All, I have an 84 brat turbo, which the car dies after driving, very intermittent, A quick Key off, on will get it going again. it idles for a few minutes then just shuts off. I replaced the computer, mass air flow, Distributor. I recently replaced the transmission. the car sat for a few months with the key accidentally left on (battery dead) after the automatic tranny swap, it had 2 bad injector coils. two injectors replaced, it would run, but had a bad miss at various rpms. so I ordered a remanufactured computer ecu. this did not fix it I then unplugged the mass air flow. it ran better, but not right, so I bought a remanufactured MAF. this made it a little better, I then replaced the entire distributor, no change. I unhooked the knock sensor unit, unplugged the altitude sensor, etc eliminated every electronic component I could still intermittent acts up. It does this with the anti knock control unit unplugged.(car will run without it) It idles better with the Mass Air flow unit unplugged as well. I measured all wiring from engine side of wire harness to the ECU, nothing measures bad. UGGGG!!! at this point. Tomorrow I plan on replacing the coil, and fuel pump. seems to act up when I hit a bump on a right hand turn. also, with headlights off it runs better. Im thinking either the fuel pump is getting knocked and acts up, Coil may be getting hot and drawing more current, or alternator is acting up when hot. Car runs with battery terminals unhooked, so I know alternator is charging. I will ultimately fix it and post my findings. I still love my little money pit.....BTW also has a new turbo....wheel bearings, got a small fortune in it.... I named it Johnny Cash..... one piece at a time....only wish it didn't cost me a dime... Bill https://www.facebook.com/bill.sherman.58
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Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz -
New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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I need a little help. I have a 92 4wd Loyale Wagon that I need to smog in. Runs great but the CEL is on. Just drove 850 miles and got an average of 34mpg. Hooked the green test cables up on the driver's side in the engine bay and shows a code 34. I jumped the cables at the EGR solenoid, as described in this forum along with disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/103456-cel-34-and-35-1990-loyale/?p=1182243 No change, the CEL is still on. Does this mean the ECU is bad?
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So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
