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Found 126 results

  1. Hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Title says it. Was cursing along and poof there goes the timing belt, heard squealing and immediately dropped the clutch to the floor, belt snapped and engine stopped silently and I glided to the shoulder. I've done a lot of reading and understand I have an interference engine and the chances of damaged valves are very high.. I have been doing a lot of thinking and have found a few options so I am seeking some advice. My options are: A) Replace timing belt and hope for the best B ) Assume damaged valves, remove heads and order new valves, gaskets, etc.. C) Assume damaged valves and replace heads with two used ones I sourced locally ($125 each + machining + gaskets) D) I also sourced an EJ22 locally for $600, it has considerably less km (116,000km) than mine (273,000km) but I would need a shop to do labour (cost??). E) Scrap it, buy a Yaris and cry myself to sleep I bought the car for $2000 from someone with no mechanical knowledge, I did a lot of work, wheel bearing, brakes, exhaust, etc.. and drove it clean across the continental US from British Columbia, down to Cali across to NY and back up to Nova Scotia. It worked like a dream! It's rust free and I'd like to see it on the road again! Needless to say id like to do this as cheaply as possible. I have never done anything this complex but I have the mechanical confidence to dive in. Any info or experiences will help. THANKS!
  2. I am planning on replacing the stock radiator. Which brands would you recommend? There are a huge range of brands and prices from generic, no name for $65; to NISSENS for about $145. Thanks for your input
  3. Anyone experienced similar issues, Please help?! She's a 92 Liberty GX AWD Auto wagon, EJ22. After sitting overnight, If I start and run motor on a short trip, like around corner from home to filling station, and switch her off before reaching normal operating temp, she then refuses to fire up again for about 20mins or so! Engine rotates but won't fire up! Half hour later when she does fire up, she puffs out a small smokey bluish cloud, like she's clearing her throat or something! Anyone have suggestions or similar experience to share??
  4. New member here. Don't own a Subaru at this point, but have loved them since I learned to drive stick on my dad's '81 GL hatchback. Have lurked a bit before joining --gathered some intel on what to look for in buying a car from the mid-late 90's era, so thanks for the info all. From what I read, it looks like the EJ22 is the motor I want to look for, especially if I go for a high mileage car. Two questions: Was that motor ever put in an Outback or a Forester? Or was is mostly the Imprezzas and Legacies? Also, how do you tell the difference between the EJ25 and the EJ22 visually? Many thanks!
  5. Greetings- I just bought a '95 Legacy LS wagon with the EJ22 engine (EA4T with 143k) for cheap ($500) because it needs head gaskets. I'm going to do the work myself (first time for this repair) and I'm wondering if anyone in Northern VA area has a recommendation for a shop that can machine the cylinder heads after I remove them. I live in Springfield for reference. I'm going to pull the engine to do this so I am going to do the timing belt/water pump (of course) and already saw some discussion about the eBay kits with the Aisin water pumps (which looks like a great deal). I also see that there is decent amount of gunked on oil on/below the block so I am going to clean the block and investigate that and figure out what else I need to do (e.g. oil separator/baffle plate, etc.). I'm still trying to figure out which head gaskets I should use. I know the consensus for the EJ25 motors looks to be a HG with MLS. How about for the EJ22...do most people use an OEM head gasket? Decent aftermarket like Felpro that is similar to the OEM? Or some other aftermarket that is superior to the OEM? Any info is appreciated.
  6. Hi there guys, Pretty new to Subaru's and recently had a head gasket go on my ej22 in my 97 impreza OBS, priced parts and was about to order them when I found a guy in my town selling a ej22 for cheap and it runs minty, my only concern is that it's out of a 95 legacy and I know that the 95 ej22 and the 97 ej22 have slightly different internals and the compression is higher. So my question is would the ej22 out of the legacy swap right into my impreza or would i need to play with the harnesses or swap any parts over? Cheers guys and gals. Also not sure if this is the right board to post this if not could someone please direct me to the correct one, Thanks
  7. Hello All, I've heard there shouldn't be any issues with this swap but wanted to make extra sure. The EJ22 engine in my 2000 OBS is shot. (Long stupid story, let the oil get too low) I've got a 2003 Forester with an EJ251 engine that's got a pretty banged up fender and door from a hit and run. The OBS is a 5s manual, the Forester's an automatic. I've done some net searching and from what I hear, the EJ25 should have no issues swaping into the OBS. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for any and all help.
  8. I have a EJ22, is the Subaru coolant conditioner (which I think is designed to help with head gaskets?) worth the money? Would you recommend it? Is it worth the extra money? This is the product I am talking about: http://prntscr.com/1rdov6
  9. Hey Everyone, I'm happy to be back in the gang of scoobie owners. I just purchased a 1995 Legacy LS wagon (for $500) to use as a third car for my oldest daughter who is about to get her license. I have previously owned a number of family members: '86 GL-10 sedan, '87 GL wagon (loved that d/r), '88 DL wagon, and a '90 Legacy wagon (we had some bad luck with that first gen EJ22!). This wagon is in pretty good shape with only 143k miles and no body rust. The big project for it is the need for head gaskets. I'm going to work on that myself so I'll continue digging into the various threads here on that topic. I've seen lots of discussion about what gasket to use (OEM v. some other MLS) and I haven't figured out what direction I'm going yet. I have some time so I can do more research. I need to find a shop in northern Virginia (just SW of DC) where I can get the heads measured for flatness and machined if needed. Anyone have a recommendation? I look forward to using the board more. I received some great help (on the old message board!) when I changed my first timing belt on the '87 GL back in 2001 or so.
  10. I am trying to find the correct part number so I can replace these two hoses. At sixteen years and 241,000 miles I am, over time replacing all of the hoses. Picture is from Chilton's manual. I think if I removed them I could easily match them up to rockauto pictures, but I could easily damage them too. Thanks for your help.
  11. Anyone worked out if it is possible to replace burnt out bulbs in the heater controls? I had a look took it to pieces but it seems to be a sealed unit? Thank you
  12. BoxerRebellion

    My lifted whiperoo

    Howdy folks. Here's my recently acquired GL. The peeps who had it before me did a little work. This GL makes my fourth Subaru. This is the first one to be lifted, as opposed to the obvious alternative - lowered. So, it's new. To me. '87 GL frame and body. '95 Impreza 2.2. '91 Legacy tranny. 4" SJR lift. Raked. The underbody LED kit was included in purchase. The Weapon-R intake I've had for a number of years. I originally purchased it for a Legacy.... That Legacy was totaled. Held onto it for three years, put it right back where it belongs. An EJ22. I've a number of things to do to this GL. The list is adding up. The most crucial being the front rotors/pads. Upon trying to switch out pads, I discovered the rotors were so far worn, that the created outer lip is preventing the caliper from being removed. I'll figure out what to do there. Also, the bumper. Does anyone have any info on it? I've seen three Subies so far here on USMB with the same bumper. Where'd it come from? Company? Individual? Anwho, if I have any questions... I know who to ask. Or where, rather. This is BoxerRebellion (a.k.a. Evan) signing out. Talk with you all soon. Cheers. -Let's hit T-Line. Now.
  13. Someperson

    Xt6 swap help needed

    So, I can't get a definitive answer about what i'll need for a crossmember to drop my ej22t into my xt6. I was told an ea82t crossmember would be workable and i've gotten conflicting info there stating that the xt crossmember won't bolt up to the mount holes in the 6... anyone here done the swap before?
  14. After fixing my t-belt, and re-doing my harness for swap into my 87 rx, It will start up perfect and run for about 5 seconds, then stall. If I touch the throttle it stalls. and It will not start at all if I give it any throttle. Theres no codes except when I unplugged some sensors and such to se iff running would change and it doesnt. No new codes if I reset ecu. Im pretty confident in the harness as I've done them before. The thing I look at first is my IACV hose, it's hooked up good and the same as it's always been, I don't have a fuel pressure testor, but i'm assuming it has enough since it pushes through the regulator, I also pinched the return to spike the pressure to the max the fuel pump out puts. I switched ecus, nothing, pulled a plug, looked at spark, it looks good even when it starts stalling. I took an LED and hooked up to an injector plug to kinda moniter the pulse and it looks like good solid blinks until it starts stalling, it faints to very light blinks like it's leaning it. If I crack the throttle the blinks goes almost non-existent so it appears that it is stalling because the injectors are leaning fuel until it stalls?? I tried reading the plugs, but it's kinda difficult since it wont run long enough. As much as I dislike this I used some starting fluid and It kept it running for a lot longer too. I also played with the IACV with the top off and turned by hand and it stays running just as long when I adjust it by hand Unplugging the MAF connector makes NO difference either
  15. Aright so ej swap has been on the road for 25k miles, then it starts normal one morning, shut it off for a few hours, go to take off again and it just cranks and trys to start soo bad, it sounded like a low idle while cranking, but nothing. It has spark and fuel too, the spark looks bright yellow? I got towed around the block with it in gear, it did nothing but spudder here and there. I replaced the cam/crank sensors, the ignitor, coil, and plugs and nothing. I jumped the main relay and also squeezed the fuel return to build higher fuel pressure incase the regulator crapped out. I also got another harness and ecu, tryed the ecu first, same result. Now I just got done spending like 12hours on the new harness, and put it in the car and the SAME crap. The main ground for the ecu is good and snug. I pulled the side timing cover and wiggled the belt and it's tight, i couldn't possibly see it slipping. BTW before doing all this I pulled codes and got idle switch, iac, neutral sw, and st. switch. none of these seem like they would threaten it starting at all? I also hooked the start switch up this time. Also The only ground is through the harness and to the intake manifold, for the ecu that is, but that worked before.
  16. So I just recently raised my Legacy onto Outback Suspension and put 27' General Grabber AT2's on her. I've noticed a HUGE loss of power, which I expected. With a tired out EJ22 I know its time for an engine swap in the short future. My question is, What are my options? I dont want a EJ25 because of the common HG problems. Would a 3.0 out of an H6 Outback work? I'm open to just about anything, but I wanna try to keep it subaru.
  17. Alrighty... So I'm posting the tail end of my build thread here, since it looks like there are a lot of swap savvy subaru enthusiasts here and I humbly ask for your advice and knowledge in advance Title sort of covers it -- I have an EJ22 (pre-OBDII, but not sure what year exactly) and I'm swapping it into my 1973 VW bus. I'm more or less adapting a similar conversion to these guys: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=492898 They used an H6, I'll be using the 4 cyl 2.2, but I'm going to go with the same cooling setup. I plan on using these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Radiator-00-06-Scion-Toyota-Echo-xA-xB-1-5-l4-/300584025817?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AScion%7CModel%3AxA&hash=item45fc343ed9&vxp=mtr I wish they had an all aluminum version but unfortunately they don't. I would do what the New Zealanders I linked above did (using all alum. honda civic radiators, turned on their sides, with the pressure caps welded shut and the hose outlet re-located) but I don't have a tig welder and don't want to pay a guy 200 bucks to do it either. SO the plan is to use these guys, since overall they should be *just* the right size to fit in the same spots. I only have 14-15 inches of clearance height-wise. for the fuel pump I'm going with this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/walbro-gsl392-255lph-fuel-pump-p-312.html along with a mounting bracket kit. for the fuel return, I was thinking of using this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65385?seid=srese1&gclid=CJvs_KPT_7cCFehAMgodERgAZg because my stock fuel tank was for a carb and only has the outlet, and I don't want to mod the tank. Bolt-in solution is the key here. For the engine mounting bracket/cradle, I'll have to fab one after the motor is mocked up in the engine bay. I also will need to run the coolant lines, add a pressure cap/expansion tank, maybe some bleed valves, etc. I have the stock exhaust to hack into something that fits, and I don't know yet if I'm going to shorten the oil pan or not. I'd rather not, but I also want a decent amount of clearance since I plan to take this bus offroad sometimes. I think that addresses the main points of the build, I've already stripped down the wiring harness to the stock bits, but I have to run and sleeve everything so it'll look nice. here are some pics of whats been done so far... engine cleaning after I got it and tore it down to the block. I got everything from a donor car for 100$ on CL All clean! the old aircooled motor: another shot of the removal, and the recipient of the subaru... the pile of wire on the left by the cardboard is the crap I don't need. the tiny pile on the left by the grill is all thats necessary for the engine to run. Currently, I'm torquing the heads back on after I installed new head gaskets, and I'll be doing the timing belt and water pump next. After that, I'll mount the motor in the car while I play with where things are going to go, flip the intake manifold around and relocate the alternator, and route the various fuel lines, coolant hoses, and electrical stuff. more pictures to come! any and all advice and questions welcome.
  18. hey guys lookin for a lil advice here. workin on startin an ej22 swap into my 88 gl and am wondering if the original single row radiator will provide sufficient cooling or if its better to go with a 2 row that would require some modification to move the original mounting holes on the car to fit the different radiator? thanks guys, Ryan
  19. So I took my little sube to a Mud competion here in Oregon this weekend. Pretty good time. Super gnarly course, I opted out of certain obstacles but not many. Here is the first 2 videos on youtube. Other to be loaded and lots of other people were filming and sadi they would eb posting too so more to come. I sustained almost all the damage of the run on this first drop in! Twisted the driveline and ripped carrier out of its rubber but it all held for the rest of the run. This was the second series of holes. I had tettered in and out of this one twice before this video starts. Dual ebrakes working great to get me out and around when the tires are in the air! This is were the crowd starts to get behind me instead of ridiculing me. Kinda brutal and short, but enjoy.
  20. Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
  21. Engine starts and idles fine but bogs out and dies at 1500 RPM. I pulled the timing belt covers off to check the timing marks on the cams and it "looks" like it's still right. Swapped out the cam sensor to see if that was the problem but no change. When idling the left cam pulley looks like it might be wobbling slightly but could be an optical illusion. I checked the pulley to see if there was any play but it was solid. Any ideas?
  22. Hey all, The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"... I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise). The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other?? Thanks, Greg
  23. suprunner

    EJ swap, Harness question

    Hi, I have been trying my best to strip the wiring harness down. This is what I've done so far: I went through a Legacy ECU pinout, and labeled/sepparated every wire that pertained to the ECU. Was this the correct way to go about it? Now I have a large pile of wires that didn't directly go to the ECU, and then the four plugs and their corresponding wires that connect to the ECU. Are these all I will need? Or did I just make myself a mess...? Also, what is the "Select Monitor Signal"? Necessary? Thanks, Greg 1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf
  24. I haven't posted on the forum since I'm not very experienced and don't feel I really have much to contribute to this forum, but I may have something after changing the timing belt in my '96 Legacy L wagon. The crank pulley was severely overtorqued (didn't come loose with either my dad or I on a breaker bar in 5th gear, e brake on, braced against the passenger's fender with ~1/2 revolution) and as it turned out had RTV as a Loctite substitute. My dad has a Bridgeport mill, so that's how I made the tool, but it could be done with a drill press and band saw in a pinch. Dimensions are the following: 5/16" Gr 8 bolts on 3.15" centers 1.25" center hole 1" flats for holding with a wrench It took me about 2 hours, but would take less time if fly cutting, digging tools out of the mess of a shop, precision machining, etc. aren't an issue.
  25. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    EA82 to ER27 Swap

    First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.