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Showing results for tags 'EJ25D'.
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I'm going to need to replace the engine on my '99 Legacy Outback wagon. Reading up on it, it looks like the '99 EJ25D factory hybrid one-off. Should I be looking to replace it with the same engine? What are my best options? I'm not looking to do any street racing. I want a reliable commuter car and to be able to make it into the mountains and back.
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---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a continuation of my dads car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana. Just looking for pointers as I things here and there. Just this past weekend I finally started the car! Good news is that it runs pretty darn good considering what its been through. What I've done so far: - Changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, grommets for the bolts. - Spark plugs - Oil and Oil filter - Thermostat, Radiator cap and coolant. - Drained old fuel and added new fuel So after 2 years she started up and ran fine, fans kicked on and I burped the system for bit then capped it off and drove it around the block a few times. Everything feels pretty good, lots of power (for 160Hp that is), breaks work but need to be changed, power steering squeaks a tad when fully locked out to either side. Couple issues. 1. When shifting from Park into reverse, there is a bit of a lunge or soft clunk and you can definitely feel the car shake a bit. When driving through the gears its good but could be a little smoother. So I'm not sure what is all to be concerned with there. 2. I was test driving and I noticed the temp gauge started to move a tad bit past the middle so I drove back a 1/4 mile and parked it and saw a trail of me dripping coolant all around the apartment complex. Popped the hood and found the upper radiator hose spraying coolant out the side. I grabbed the hose and it came right off and there was a piece of the upper radiator port broken off inside the hose and I squeezed the hose and the plastic part of the port stuck in there snapped so it was very brittle and from my memory of when it was overheating 2 years ago in Montana, that hose was spewing coolant. so time for a new radiator. Any precautions I should take when swapping the radiator out seeing as how there was broken pieces in the hose and I'm worried some may have gotten in the engine? however It seemed fine while driving back other than I noticed the temp gauge rising. and should I go OEM with the new radiator? they are currently like $300 -
--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD --- Hey all! In anticipation of a engine swap I was talking with my local shop that is insanely experienced and truly honest, fair and professional their name is Kaiju Motorsports here in Henderson, Near Las Vegas Nevada. Let me know if there any other shops out here so far this seems to be the top notch shop in Vegas. They quoted me about 17-25 hours @110/hr for a swap with a 2.2L or 2.5L, they said it would be that many hours due to all the inevitable issues that pop up with an engine swap like wiring and other mechanical hiccups. Is that a fair quote for guys who 100% know what they are doing? its not just swap and that's it they make sure it fully functional and kinks are worked out before the job is "done" also if I'm buying an engine what else is necessary to purchase? I imagine its not just buy 1 engine and that's it, I'm sure there will be new gaskets or wires or ecu i have no idea.. so what else am I looking for when "buying an engine" so I can price things out ahead of time. also let me know if swapping to an H6 ez30 is a better idea since i want to lift this thing 2 inches and make it a camper and i doubt that the 2.2 will make life very enjoyable loaded up with camping gear, they quoted about 25-35 hours for that.
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--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 DOHC 4EAT AWD --- Hey All!! I've looked through forums and other threads but cant find what I need. I might have to do an engine swap here soon depending on whether or not this engine is worth fixing. I really want to lift this thing about 1.5-2 inches and go 1 size up in tire size from 205/70/R15 to ---> 215/75/R15 My Goal is for it to be a good camping vehicle that can try to keep up with my buddies jeep. If I'm going to do an engine swap id like to have enough power to accomplish this goal without it being underpowered after the lift plus camping gear and full size spare etc... I want an easy swap, something that's pretty plug and play hopefully around 10-15 hours of labor. Im pricing out having a shop just do it for me but I am pretty mechanically inclined and I'm quite sure I could swap an engine myself with the proper tools and meticulous labeling and organizing of all the wires hoses and other stuff. For someone who has never even come close to swapping an engine, however I have changed spark plugs, distributor and a thermostat, I Imagine it would be easier to swap an engine with no experience than say replacing head gaskets with no experience, but again I have no clue, I just feel like it would be a bit less advanced to swap a intact engine and just hook up some hoses wires and bolts etc.. Let me know if I should just stop this line of reasoning and leave it to the pros or not haha. But other than that what engine would be the best option for what I want to do. Hopefully plug and play enough that it doesn't cost too many shop hours or plug and play enough for me to do it if yall think that's a good idea.
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SOLVED Body: '98 OBW Current motor: EJ251 block, EJ25D heads (rings are letting oil be consumed, and there are sounds of the beginnings of rod-knock) Newer motor: Reman EJ253/251 block, EJ25D heads. Hey folks. I bought a reman block form subaru. EJ253/251 block for a 2003 forester. Mating it with EJ25D heads to replace my current hybrid (EJ251 and EJ25D heads). Everything is just about ready to go except the PCV system. The newer block has what appears to be a threaded-in bung to accepted a threaded PCV. Being that the intake I'm using is for the heads, it already has a PCV. Has anyone put a newer block into an older system and routed the PCV system successfully? The old-style is just a pipe that comes out of the block, with the vinyl tubes coming off of it. They don't fit over the new interface. I'll try and get photos soon. Looking at pictures for the newer PCV, it doesn't look as if its outer diameter is the same inner diameter of the older crankcase hose that would be going up to the PCV on the intake. a Thoughts and advice much appreciated. Greg -
Hi all, Does anyone know if there is a difference between the crankshaft sprocket for a 00/01 EJ251 and a '97-98' EJ25D? I'm trying to diagnose some engine-performance issues and will be looking at my timing soon enough... I have a EJ 251 block mated with the heads from a EJ 25D. The crankshaft sprocket came from the 251, and the cams are for the 25D heads. I read on here that there may be differences between A/T and M/T sprockets of the same block, and I do not know which transmission this block was mated to. According to opposedforces.com, and an online subaru dealer parts page, the sprocket is the same between the 25D and SOHC blocks. Just wondering if anyone knows of a difference. Issues at hand include odd imbalance/vibrations between 1800 and 2500 rpm. Feels like there's a cylinder not firing. Smoke test, and leak-down test are in order, hopefully next weekend after finals. Take care, Greg
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Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
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Hey Gang, I just signed up. I'm new to Subaru's, but am not a newbie. I an experienced DIY wrench. I just bought (traded, really) a dead 1997 Outback wagon EJ25D from my brother in law for effectively $100. He bought it three years ago for his kids, but the engine coughed up a lung two weeks into ownership. The car began to miss on one cylinder and he limped it home. Professionals told him it was probably the timing belt. He parked it at the back of his driveway and there it has sat, until now. I'm starting a new business, and need a roof rack. The car spent the first 16 years of its life garaged in NYC, and it has only 80K miles. The interior is like new. The exterior is good, but could use a respray. This wagon IS WORTH FIXING. It has only 80K original miles on it. The Obie experts on YT, from my research, seem to suggest pulling the motor to fix the valves/timing belt/cogs/pulley issues. So that's the plan. I bought the Haynes manual and read it thoroughly. I've watched the Mike Bauer and Briansmobile1 video on YT. I've bought a good quality engine stand, and following Mike Bauer I've removed the battery, accessories, and the intake manifold yada yada yada. I've freed the exhaust manifold, the two motor mount nuts, and the four engine to bell housing nuts/bolts. Also freed are the four flywheel bolts. I've completed the list via the Haynes manual and am about to rent the hoist. And for your information when I pulled all four spark plugs I found that #3 was smashed in. Houston, we got a problem... Once the engine is on the stand I shall remove the DOHC heads carefully. I've found a local machine shop in Yonkers, NY, that claims to fix "...about ten of 'em [subaru cylinder heads] a week." The shop gave me some good instructions on how to remove the DOHC heads off the motor. The shop told they will call once their diagnosis is complete. I will have to choose what parts to buy, or perhaps a rebuild kit. This is where I'm open to advice from the gang here. I don't know if I will need new cam shafts, or just new valves and springs. I'm pondering if I should do a bottom end rebuild as well. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks. -King B. -
Hi all, Hoping if someone with experience could help me with identification. Up to this point, it's me, my limited knowledge, and pictures from eBay. I recently purchased a 1999 Legacy Outback Limited as a parts car, engine donor. running and driving for $300 out of someone's front yard. I pulled the engine and replaced head gaskets, upper engine seals and timing components as usual. I noticed a few differences between this engine, and the two others I have experience with, a 97 EJ25D and a 98 EJ25D. Up until late reassembly, I just thought, "oh it's just a weird '99 thing," assuming they updated the EJ25 along with the phase I/phase II split in the EJ22 of the same year. I can't find any source saying significant changes were made for 99 only. Instead, it seems to match that of a JDM long block with USDM manifolds and waste spark. I've listed some strange qualities about it below, let me know what you think. -"4 CAM 24 VALVE" embossed on valve covers - wire clip bracket on timing belt cover (for front mounted/uel cats?) -threaded holes near spark plug holes, as if for coil-over-plugs -flat top pistons with machined provisions for valves, as opposed to the dished pistons I've seen in the other two engines -different style water pump with a forward facing thermostat and aluminum thermostat housing. Had the Fuji Heavy Industries logo embossed on both the pump and housing. The water pump is what made me wonder, as another (long-dead) thread stated that the JDM engines used the turbo style water pump, whatever that may be. The car sat for two years so the coolant was basically mud, and the pump would have been trash if I were to run it anyways. Unfortunately because of that, I threw it away before I noticed the difference. I got a Gates component kit, (third one I've installed, never had an issue with fitment before,) and the housing bolts on differently so it would either be facing straight forward or back, as opposed to out the side like I need it to. Also, the Gates pump has a curve and a raised provision for the thermostat, making the center timing cover not fit properly. If I were to just use the center timing cover from my known USDM engine, would the pump still be compatible? Thanks for any help! -
I have a 1999 Legacy GT with the 2.5L EJ25D (dohc, phase 1) and I want to swap the heads. Now I know that I'll need new 2.2L heads with dual port so I don't need to change my exhaust, and I've read that you need a new timing belt. (Donor car will likely be 1995 Legacy 2.2L) Now here are the issues: - Do I need to use the 2.2 head cam sprockets or can I use the ones from the 2.5? - Besides the previous question, do I need anything else other than the 2.2 belt for the timing system? - The bolt pattern for the 2.5 manifold I have has bolts in a straight line, however the 2.2 heads I've seen (1995 and older) have diagonal bolts. - Can I use the 2.5l head bolts? I have a new set which I will use. 14mm 12 point. - Is the bolt pattern the same? My current one has 6 bolts, 3 on top behind the top cam, and 3 down low behind the bottom cam. - If the donor engine (2.2L) didn't have HG issues should I still get the heads planed by a machine shop? - Should I get new valves seats/guides/valves/springs or is that overdoing it? Pics are here (2.5l head, block and manifold): http://imgur.com/a/ExhsZ -
I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance. -
Took my car for a drive today, I live in the buffalo area thats all over the news so the cars been sitting for a few days. I usually let the engine warm up before I drive it but today I was in a hurry so just started up and drove it. As Im driving it, since I pull out of the driveway and for a solid 10 minutes after it feels as if the engine is bogging down, almost stalling so it bucks if I accelerate from 25+ Holds in gear for a little bit (a few seconds at 3000 rpm), but might just be because Im putting my foot down, it always does that. After it bogs the revs jump up, like its bucking but speeding up. The surging feels almost like tranny slip. I know it has a bit of tranny slip, I live on a steep hill and really have to give it to 'er to make it up with any sort of speed. Any tranny slip ive experienced before occurs above 4500 and lasts half a second at most. Todays occurances were at 3000. The bogging feels like the timing isnt advancing. (As i put my foot further down it bogs harder) I dont think its a trans issue as it happens in all gears. It went away mostly as the engine warmed up though. Didnt go away, but got much much better. After the engine was warm when I got home, I revved it up under the hood, with my hand pushing the throttle linkage. The engine would stutter, feel like its about to shake itself out of the car, then rev normally. I cant rev it long at idle 'cause it overheats with its leaky head gaskets. Could the head gaskets be doing this? (Probably a stupid question) All of the ignition componants are origional to my knowledge, and its pushing 85k. I was just reading on another thread last night about how ignition coils go easily on these due to heatsoak issues. Also on the same thread how upstream O2 sensors could have a similar affect to my symptoms If this is an engine problem I couldnt care less as long as it runs, its almost swap time anyways. Im worried about trans issues. I have not had the trans serviced and there are no records. I was told not to have a flush done for the first time above 80k, as it could loosen debris and cause failure sooner. Help! Please and thank you!
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Hey everyone I just have some questions relating to the exhaust on my 97 Legacy, was wondering if anyone has experience that would be most helpful. I recently put UEL headers on (with questionable success) and after replacing the stud I broke I am dissapointed at the lack of noise. Im looking at a Magnaflow 14832 (No fart cans!) however the inlet size on that is 2.25 inches. Can anyone tell me what the stock exhaust diameter should be on a 97 Legacy? Also, since I am operating on a college budget and do not have access to a welder, what would be the best method of coupling the muffler, pipe, and most likely adapter together? Ive seen butt joints and slip joints with sleve clamps (and copper RTV silicone) on them. How reliable are these? Ive already put up with horrible exhaust leaks and do not want to go back and "unbreak" stuff again. What would be best? Or should I just give up and pay some shop to do it for me before I find out its not possible?
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I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point.
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Thanks as always for the help. Love these forums. On my 1999 Legacy Outback (2.5L DOHC), I recently replaced my timing belt & components after a slipped tooth resulted in poor compression and misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Before the timing belt replacement I got 90 and 80 psi compression on cylinders 1 and 3, respectively. Now I get 210 and 60 psi respectively. (On cylinders 2 and 4 I got 190 and 180). I detailed this info in this thread. A friend advised a leakdown test next. I put Cylinder 3 in TDC, held it in place with a socket and breaker bar, dialed input pressure up to 75 psi and got 72-73 on the other gauge, i.e. approximately 3-4% leakage. I could hear a quiet hissing through the oil fill cap. 1) Do these numbers seem right---i.e. are the results of my leakdown test consistent with the compression test? Want to make sure I'm doing it right. 2) Assuming it is right, this means I have worn piston rings or cylinder walls, right? -
Legacy EJ25D 2.5L DOHC. Engine began running rough and idling rough a few weeks back, CEL diagnostic codes said cylinder 1 & 3 misfire. Diagnosed with a compression test. Cylinders 1 and 3 were getting 90 and 80 psi respectively. Cylinders 2 and 4 were 190 and 180 respectively. I just put the timing belt back on and re-checked compression on the right side. Cylinder 1 is now getting 210 psi, but Cylinder 3 is only getting 60. (Note---I did this before the engine was all back together, so I didn't idle it beforehand and the compression test was run on a cold engine.) I'm pretty sure I got back the power I was lacking when the timing belt slipped. Just took it for a spin and it feels about the same as I recall it in terms of acceleration. So, it's possible that cylinder has been underperforming for some time... Now that I have the results of a compression test and verified timing is like new again, is there anything further I can do without getting into expensive territory (valve work... piston rings etc.)? This is an old car (228k miles).
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I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets.
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I need to clean up the threads inside my crankshaft. Made a mistake using a puller; got a small piece of metal jammed in the crankshaft end but fished it out with some epoxy. I want to clean the threads up before putting it back together. I am measuring thread spec using my crankshaft bolt and calipers. By my measurements major thread diameter = 12.8 mm, thread pitch = 1.5 mm (averaged along 15 threads). Should I assume that the proper tap size = M13x1.5? (The reason I come here to verify is because M13 isn't a common size, so I want to make sure I'm right before I order the tap). Thanks.
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Howdy folks, Newbie here. I need to inspect my timing belt---suspected jumped a tooth... see earlier posts by me in the last couple of days if you're interested in the full saga. I removed radiator, accessory belts already. Last step before removing timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley, and I don't know how to get it off. I began following this tutorial by MercedesDieselGuy on youtube He advocates a bit of a redneck method for loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt (bracing a breaker bar against the body and cranking the motor for a split-second). I applied WD-40 beforehand and followed his advice; it loosened up with no problem. (It was only later that I came across this thread where user Alias20035 said (s)he doesn't like that technique, but as far as I can tell I didn't bork it). I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt entirely, and the pulley itself stays in place. It rotates just fine (I'm using an old leather belt & vice-grips), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to slide out. MercedesDieselGuy, in the youtube link above, recommends turning the pulley clockwise to align the hash mark with the "0" reading stamped on the timing belt cover. (Later in the vid he seems to change his mind; thinks that step may be unnecessary). In any case, I did that (using a white paint mark I found on the front face & grooves of the pulley) and it doesn't seem to help with yanking the pulley. The timing belt cover seems to be plastic---so there was nothing solid to brace against when I tried wiggling a prybar gently. Other notes: the grooves at the back of my pulley are banged up, a couple of chips, making me think previous owner &/or a sloppy mechanic had the same trouble I am having, and tried brute force. Finally, I used a small mirror and my headlamp to get a good look at the pulley's center hole. I can see a notch at the back of the pulley on one side; hard to tell if it's part of pulley or another component/bushing behind it. But if I slowly turn the pulley with my belt wrench while watching with the mirror, I can see the notch rotates with the pulley. Is that back notch the "crank key" referred to in the thread I linked above? Any advice on how to get this dang thing off? Is there a trick to it? Thank you!
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I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
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My 97 legacy obw has the ej25d motor and is now knocking quite noticably what would be the best approach to fix rebuild or swap out -
Does anyone know the official combustion chamber volume of this head? I've seen either 50cc or 53cc posted on the internet, but nobody has posted anything concrete. So has anyone out there actually cc'd this head, or know where I can find something from subaru stating the specs for it? -
Hi everyone, my Forester decided to let loose a piston pin retainer; found it in oil pan. So, I have to open the engine for inspection cuz it was knocking pretty bad. Didn't see any metal shavings or particles in oil so that's a good sign, but still I want to make sure nothing broke. Anyways, I'm posting pictures of the job, so if anyone needs an specific image of anything let me know. -
Ok so this is probably been answered someplace unknown to me. I have a 1999 Subaru legacy outback SUS EJ25D with the 8 bolt bell housing hookup. I continue to run into people saying that car is type specific as far as engines go. what are my options? can I use a JDM 4 bolt EJ25D or EJ22 because I cant seem to find a 25 that's not high miles and very expensive 1300$ was the best I could find. I am interested in these 4 bolt JDM motors. will they work Plug and Play with my 99 SUS? Thanks all this is the JDM I would like to use
