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Showing results for tags 'Ea81'.
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Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
I have a 1984 gl 4spd duel range. I have a clean 92 ej-22 sitting in the garage. A friend will sell me a harness and ecu for 50$. I still need a fuel pump, clutch,trans plate, re drilled flywheel, high pressure fuel line, front wheel bearings, fluids, and a cv axle. I have about $500 saved up. Can i get the swap done with this much money? i cant afford to have my car not be usable for more then a few weeks. Any input would be appreciated, thank you.
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Greetings to the group, I've been a 'lurker' for a long time and keep watching the threads about EJ22 updates. I have a 83 EA81 BRat, which I dearly love. It is not a daily driver, but when it is taken out, it is often for a long distance...two or three hundred miles each way. I am planning to do some minor rust removal and paint work; but I just ran across a local 95 Legacy 2.2 4WD manual transmission, with 209K miles, that has some well bent sheet metal. It is being sold as a parts car. It is all there, having just been towed to the owners home after the accident. I have only seen pictures at this point. They are asking $500 for the whole thing. I was not planning on this project, but the opportunity to get a whole donor, close to home, has arrived. As I understand, I will either need to use an adapter plate to retain my 4-spd D/R tranny, or forgo the D/R and use the non D/R 5-speed tranny from the donor chassis. Is this correct, or is there another tranny option I also understand I will need to do a lot of wiring modifications to accommodate the FI computer and different ingition system. The owner says the car does have some minor oil leaks, (with 200+ K on it I'm not surprised) but that it was running just fine prior to the accident. The major damage is to the right front suspension. If it was not for the broken strut and bend lower A-arm, it looks like it could have been driven home. Am I overlooking anything serious? Any major or minor "GOTCHA'S" I am going to look at the car this evening. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Rod J -
New Market Skills Center is hosting its annual Car Show on MAY 8th! We have decided to mix it up this year and try to have more variety. Rally cars, clean builds, and even wheelers are encouraged to attend! New market is an alternative high school. In addition to the car show we are also having an open house for our programs. If you aren't interested in the school side its totally fine to simply view the cars. Free burgers! Complete a tour book and insistently win a prize from one of many sponsors! If you would like to enter a car please call (360)470-0596 and ask about the car show. This is a student run event. Thank you everyone! https://www.facebook.com/newmarketskillscenteropenhouseandcarshow
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After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at? -
A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
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For the EA81 engine, and 1983 Brat, does anyone know where the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is? There is a sensor near the thermostat housing (which is by where the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold I think, passenger side of engine bay) but this sensor is two-pronged which means that, according to all parts catalogs that I've looked at, it is the radiator fan switch, not the temp. sensor that connects with the dashboard temp. gauge. The temperature sensor is just one pronged (at least the aftermarkets that you can buy are one pronged). -
My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
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Hey guys I want to build up a brat with a swapped ej22 turbo as a rally racer but was wondering how well they hold up and if the hatch or the wagon or anything i'm forgetting would be a better option. Also i just want to hear everyone's opinions.
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Hi, of so ive been doing work on my 1982 subaru brat like cutting out rust and pulling the front end out since it has been in a front end collision . (carfax needed) lol. So after pulling the frame and paint and such i would like to build the suspension for baja style off roading. I was reading that body lifts limit the amount of down travel so i want to stay away from that. Soooooooo, im pretty sure many of you guys have pondered this idea and i think ive seen a white gl wagon with long travel shocks in the rear but not up front. I know this will be a very involved process and will take a lot of work and everything will have to be custom fabb'ed but still would be a cool idea or possibility. My buddy built his own suzuki samuri using toyota solid axels and was telling my that i could make custom long travel a arms and it would be , also that i could use coilovers up front but how to get more down travel up front? THe rear is east to get the down travel but the front is only like 3 or 4 inches than on jacks. I'm not really looking for a crazy lifted suspension (not body lift) or a down travel of like 12 inches but just more. Would this be remotely possible with the knowledge and custom fabrication or am i just plain crazy . Please post your opinions and yes i have searched this in the search bar but couldn't really find anything about the front other than people just saying there is nothing other than ranchero shocks available. Thanks guys! hopefully i can pull the frame straight then get it ready for rego . hasn't been registered in 8 years and doesnt have the pink slip. Yeah california! haha -
I'm thinking of doing a lift on my Brat (1983, so it's an EA81) and have three questions: 1. Is there anyone that makes a 3" lift kit for EA81? 2. How close can you get the tire to the wheel wells before they will hit once the suspension is compressed? (I measured 15" from hub center to the bottom of the fender. Without doing a lift, if I ran 28" tires, would they hit the wheel wells ever? Would I have to go smaller than 28" tires? In other words, would 1" between the tires and the fenders be enough distance to keep from hitting?) 3. I heard from AKghandi in a different topic that, "On an ea81 you have to drop the subframe when you lift it. Otherwise your cv axles will explode." What's this mean/is it valid?
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G'day all, I've finally got my red targa brumby's engine to fire up - but it's only running on one side of the engine (driver's side to the US crew). I've checked plugs and leads, swapped the working side to the non working side without any change, swapped a good set of leads in without change. When I remove plugs 2 & 4 there's no change in it's operation. Would I be correct in thinking that I need to play with the valve clearances? Cheers Bennie -
So if you havent seen my members ride thread youll be delighted to read this. I apologize for the redundancy but I dont wanna clutter that thread unnecessarily, and would like to reach the rest of you folks. Car drove to where i bought it and sat for two years. Im having an issue where im starving for fuel even though both filters remain full and clean. I can hear the fuel pump working away. Car will start, and run. then if gas is applied or a load put on, it bucks, surges, and dies in short order. car has an o2 sensor so that would mean I have the illustrious feedback hitatchi right? confirmed vac advance, spark are both good. advice?
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Over the weekend it snowed in Washington. I had just got my 1984 gl all freshened up with new wheel bearing and cv axles. I went to my old schools parking lot which was super snowy and untouched. i had some fun doing awd skids but i got a little crazy. i couldn't see a curb hidden by a snow bank. i went sailing sideways towards a empty looking corner of the lot. BLAM! i hit the curb on my back tire at about 30 mph. As soon as i tired to drive away i knew somthing was wrong. the rear end keeps pulling out to the left and trying to skid me out. I'm at school and the cars at home so i drew this awesome sketch. How likely is it that i majorly screwed up something? i will post better pictures later. thanks.
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So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
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Freezing coolant(water) killed my car?!
82GLWag posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance ! -
so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
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Okay so its not literally purple lightning but thats what it looks like. My coil is arcing between the posts with purple "lightning". Ive never seen this before nor do I know how to diagnose this.... any ideas as to whats wrong? Is the coil itself bad or is it something I can fix? i.e. is it not grounded properly etc.... thanks for the input! I just wanna get my 81 sedan back in tip top condition so i can get it to the show this coming year.
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So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
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Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?
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I sold my awesome daily driver brat to buy a wagon with a blown engine and 391k miles (and fill my pockets with the moneys leftover). The pretty gal who owned it before me ran it out of oil... but somebody prior to her really took awesome care of this wagon, and i will continue to do so. Dropped in a 90k mile hydro-lifter EA81 and new exhaust gaskets and she ran fair. Did a "Gloyale quicky rebuild" to the Hitachi and now she runs awesome. So lets see... how about some stats: Sunroof, power steering, power windows, A/C delete, impreza alternator swap, slant console with USB pioneer deck, amp, sub etc. EA82 5 speed D/R , rear disc brakes, 14" peugeot alloys, 3.9 LSD converted Enjoy some pr0nz : Cheers y'all
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Do they make a KYB gas adjust shock for my 1982 gl 4x4 wagon? I can't seem to find them searching in google. Does anybody know the part number if they are out there? I'm planning in running the KYB excel g/gr2 in the front and i want to run the gas adjusts in the rear. And any suggestions on where to order from? Thanks!
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Ive got an ongoing issue with my 1985 brat, it fights and hesitates when i gibe it gas, sometimes stalling the engine. If i very lightly tap the pedal, its fine. If i floor it, it will hesitate very briefly and then rev up properly. Its right in the middle where i have the most problems, the position you would use most for daily driving. Ive rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor (my first time, i may have missed the problem here) and the problem persists. Changed spark plugs, distributor cap and even added a little fuel additive, but im not getting any improvements. It isnt so much of a problem when the car is warmed up, but i dont have 7 or so minutes to spare every time i need to get somewhere. Anything i should be checking that ive missed? A simple solution right in front of me? Ive even considered a FI manifold and ecu transplant if it means the car will run fine again. I will try to add a link to a video of the problem when i m off work tonight.
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After reading a bit on the forums I think I've found out there is an EA81 flywheel with 105 teeth and another with 115 teeth. Here's the story. I bought an EA81 from someone that was out of a BRAT, unknown year. I took it in and had it rebuilt at the machine shop. I used the flywheel that came with it and installed it all into my 81 GL 4x4 Wagon which supposedly has the tranny out of an 83 Wagon. When I try to start up the engine there is a wicked loud knocking sort of grind when it's trying to start up. What appears to be happening is the starter never disengages and keeps grinding against the flywheel. I've gnarled up the flywheel pretty bad, but I think technically it's probably still fine. I tried shimming the starter out with a couple of thick washers, but that doesn't help even remotely. I'll be counting the teeth tonight on both flywheels I have to see if there's a difference. However I'm a bit at my wits end because I've already had to pull this newly rebuilt engine once to have the engine shop fix something they messed up. A friend mentioned maybe changing out the bendix gear on the starter or getting a starter for the 105 tooth version. However I also read that the 115 tooth version is needed to drive all four wheels. Can anyone provide any more illumination? Thanks. Eli
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Will my trans. put up with the added power i was thinking of adding? I have a 83 Brat Gl with a mostly stock ea81 minus some emission deletes, an extra ea81 in my garage, and an ea71 next to it. So the plan was and still is at the moment to.. add dual carbs with custom carbon fiber manifold shave cylinder heads different cam or cam grind EA71 pistons enlarge intake port by a smidge along with complete new everything i can find and probably other stuff i cant remember How tough were the 4 speed dual range trans? I think the actual name of the trans was T81W 4WD
