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  1. so this morning for the first time since I figured out how to start my car in cold, I had one hell of a time getting it running. as I found out a few months ago, I have to pretty much prime the engine by stepping on the gas twice before cranking and itll fire right up. however this morning after doing the same thing, it just kept cranking with out firing. tried stepping on the gas while it was cranking, and nothing. after a minute of this it finally fired, but was only holding about 500 rpm idle. that's not so unusual, as ive seen it do this idle before. when I tried to bring up the rpm, it killed it right away. start it back up, same low idle. now I can bring it up to about 1000 before it dies. try again, and it goes to about 2000 before it wants to die. I held the rpm at about 1700 for a few minutes before I saw the temp needle move, and after that it seemed fine. im guessing my carb somehow threw it self out of wack, as ive had it be hesitant to rev up when cold like the mixture is off a bit. any ideas or consensus on my idea of whats wrong? and if it is the carb, where is the mixture screw? I believe I have the hitachi carb.
  2. What do you guys do for sway bars on the ea cars? I want to be able to hoon around some still after I install the 5" lift, and I remember some people talking about 3 wheeling just driving on the off ramps when they're lifted this much I was thinking I could weld on some hrew/dom onto a cut down front sway bar, and thread a heim into that, with some rod style links (I know heims are supposed to mount vertical, but I don't think there is enough force to break one on these cars in this application) For the rear I was thinking finding a basic sway bar shaped like this: And then mounting it on the rear lit blocks, with the same style linkage to some custom mounts on the " a arms" of the ea suspension (most likely a plate welded to the 2 trailing arms, and then a hole/nut or a heim mounting tab. Was also debating trying to fab one onto the torsion beam, but don't know how it would respond to the heat, and the added twisting. This is all on a car that will have a frame built for it from 2x2x.25, like 88hatch has on his, but with more mount points, along with 2x5x.1875 rock sliders/rocker panels that will be tied into the frame (doing boatsides with HDPE plastic), so I think it could take the extra stress
  3. So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
  4. Was unable to find any info on this, I'm sure it's been asked before. Will the 5 speed single range 4wd transmission from a 91 loyale bolt up to an Ea81 motor? I have an 85 brat and a spare EA81 out of another 85 brat, possibly purchasing a 5 speed single range 4wd transmission, just wondering if and what I would need to make this work. Picture of the brat for posterity.
  5. Just installed a Weber 32/36 DEGV this weekend. I wasn't sure what to do with the vacuum port on the EGR, so I left it alone. Drove 300 miles home just fine and super smooth. Got in touch with Weber and they said to remove the screw-type plug from the front left port on the Weber, so I did. Hooked a vacuum line from that port directly to the Weber last night. This morning on the way to work, the car would hesitate and/or stumble, no noise, just bog down a bit on the acceleration and randomly pick back up. Ran fine yesterday, so I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR. Now it runs super smooth again. Forgot to add, EGR was recently cleaned, and the intake EGR ports were cleaned during the Weber install. EGR seems to operate properly, opening and closing as I rev the throttle up and down. So, I've read that keeping the EGR is ideal, but not necessary. Am I missing something on the install, I thought it should be direct from Weber to EGR? Any explanation would be appreciated. Thx all. EA81 GL 2dr Hatch
  6. Bought my self an 82 DL Brat that has a 32/36 dgev or dgv weber on it. Starts right up even in cold weather. Idles great but when you're giving it gas it has 2 spots that it'll start to bog down before running smoothly and what not. I'm thinking it has the wrong jetting, but I haven't messed with a weber in a few years so I'm trying to get some outside advice.
  7. OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL
  8. Alternator blew out last night, happened to find another super easy alternator upgrade. This alternator does not require a pulley swap unlike the altima alternator Mine came off of a 1994 pathfinder v6. But I'm fairly certain that any alternator from a Nissan vehicle equipped with a naturally aspirated VG30 (3 liter V6) will fit. Only modification needed is to grind the inside (sides facing each other) of the mounting "ears" on the side with 2 mounts. There's a bolt sleeve type thing that you'll want to grind flat. Then get a small washer and put that in between the bracket and the alt when you bolt it on. Not 100% sure if the non pivot side mount fits onto our Stock bracket, but it appears it's almost the exact same size. (my brat didn't come with that bracket, I use a bolt coming straight up out of the engine to push up the alternator). Wiring should be the same as the altima mod
  9. Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
  10. Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
  11. I have a good running EA81 subaru engine and a good working 5-speed dual range 4x4 4wd transmission with a brand new never used clutch. I was going to put this set up im my subaru brat but decided to go a diffrent route. Im selling this because im going to collage on March 3rd and I need it gone or it has to go to scrap. so im asking $200 OBO. thank you for your consideration. If you're intrested please call me at (541) 323-5000. I'm located in Bend Oregon.
  12. Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
  13. Greetings, I did a little work on the 1985 BRAT this weekend. I finally got rid of that pesky EGR valve warning light. Following the advice of others on this forum I learned that the light comes on every 60,000 miles irrespective of EGR status. As wikipidia states, the function of EGR is to reduce emissions: The light comes on to remind you to remove the EGR valve and perform a cleaning procedure that is described in the service manual. Some folks perform this, some ignore it, and some install a delete kit that looks like this: Which ever way you choose to go, this will not reset the light. To do this you must get up under the dash and swap a single electrical connection (at 60k) from Blue to blue to Blue to Green. At 120k you reverse the swap back to Blue to Blue. I performed the swap this weekend and spent a good amount of time under the dash looking at the rats nest to find the appropriate connections. Below are some photos to document the procedure so as to help others. First take the panel off below the steering wheel, to reveal the wiring. The wires in question will be found behind the fuse box area. See the Blue connector behind the fuse box in this photo for the actual location: Once you find this, unplug the cable and locate a similar looking plug in the opposite color. Here is a look at all three plugs. You may need to do some fidgeting to provide enough slack to make the connection. Here is what the final connection looks like: One word of caution. by spending so much time crawling under the dash, I managed to break my step assembly trim component (the plastic thing that says subaru next to the seat). This was a major bummer. Take precautions not to put too much weight on this piece. Cheers, Chris
  14. Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure
  15. I'm getting a couple ea81 turbos soon, - one with a bad bottom end, the other is assumed running condition - and I'm considering using the good ea81t in a ea82 wagon with SPFI. I don't have the ecu's or the MPFI wiring. Here's what I'm thinking: -EA81T block w stock turbo cam -EA82T Heads shaved .025", maybe not( I'm aware of the change in valve geometry) -EA82 Pistons(compression bump) -EA82 SPFI (Already in the car) Ok so I've dropped ea81's into ea82 cars before with spfi, but I have no experience with the turbo ea81s. I'm not gonna use the MPFI injectors, but they'll stay to plug the injector holes. Once I get the compression up, my big question is the EA81 cam...will it be worthwhile? Gutless(more gutless than a stock ea81 under ea82 spfi)? I'm not interested in building an ea81 turbo, but I have these parts and I wouldn't mind a running engine. I couldn't find any info in going from ea81 turbo-->ea81 non-turbo w/ spfi or weber, any input is appreciated! TIA Josh
  16. Hello Everyone, I just picked up this car with an EA81 with bent pushrods. I have the engine out, on a makeshift bench and ready to fix the issue. This is my first time working on an engine, so I will need your help and guidance. Really looking forward to ripping this thing apart and finally seeing what happens inside this thing. Preliminary questions: What are some good must-have resource for the job I am undertaking What special tools will i need What are big DON'TS while ripping this apart I am doing this for the first time and really want to understand the inns and outs, language, terms so any resources I should check out, let me know The Issue, my current situation, what should I do? Picked the engine up, creatively moved it by myself to my new homemade bench Here is how she sits now, all the bolts are out, but this flywheel casing will not come off from the engine. I didn't want to force anything, so thought it would be a great time to stop and actually find out what to do next. I was trying to take it apart to get to the Cam to see if there is any damage to the cam. bolts out The push rod that was bent is the 3rd one from the left. So if we count 1, 2, 3, 4 stating with the one furthest to the left. Number 3 is the one that was bent. (drivers side of engine) On this side If we count 1,2,3,4 number 2, was not bent but it was stuck. Number 2 and number 3 are right across from each other, I imagine both are activated by the same cam. (if thats the right way to say that) this is the passenger side of the engine. Looking for any tips or advice, thanks a ton!
  17. Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
  18. Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice!
  19. ive got a question about part interchangeability. the clutch release lever in my 88 gl 4wd broke almost in 2, and im currious if i could substitute it for one from a 2wd. im having trouble finding the leaver. auto parts stores dont carry it, and dealers almost dont have any. i need a functioning lever asap, as every day my car is not running, im losing money by being out of work. if anyone has one they can overnight or knows where to look, i would be very grateful. i know the part number for the one i need is 30531aa031 and the part number for the 2wd lever is 30531aa100.
  20. i need help with my car. just got a 3 door 1988 GL 4x4 and it ran good when i bought it, but now it wont stay running when i put any load on the engine. i can get it to idle, then if i put load on it, it sputters really bad and stalls. takes a bunch of tries starting to get it to stay running again. the ea81 was put in by the previous owner, and it has a 2 barrel weber carb that i was told needs adjusting. im stuck cuz i have to drive 700 miles and my other car just broke down
  21. My '84 GL Wagon (2WD) has blown out the driver's side ASV,become difficult to start, and sooted up that side of the engine compartment. Anybody have one for sale or know a work-around? Thanks, Geoff in Georgia
  22. Been having bad backfires with my weber, and the car will almost die if floored from idle. This causes the car to be gutless in anything besides 4wd lo. Video: Good parts are 0:00-0:30 1:20-1:30 and then 2:00 to the end. The shot of the shifter is me going into 4wd hi, after that it dies, but I think that's partly because my u joints are crap. As you can see my tach is broken. Can you guys please post pics of how your tach is wired to the engine? I have this plug, which is in a sheath with the shiny connector beneath it. https://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/ComatoseLlama/0623150959_zps4hnmfo9i.jpg?t=1435798642 Bonus shots of the luscious interior.
  23. I'm still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done? The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here where someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the brake lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more). I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was the problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
  24. Been having bad backfires with my weber, and the car will almost die if floored from idle. This causes the car to be gutless in anything besides 4wd lo. Video: Good parts are 0:00-0:30 1:20-1:30 and then 2:00 to the end. The shot of the shifter is me going into 4wd hi, after that it dies, but I think that's partly because my u joints are crap. Bonus shots of the luscious interior. As you can see my tach is broken. Can you guys please post pics of how your tach is wired to the engine? I have this plug, which is in a sheath with the shiny connector beneath it.
  25. Greetings everyone: My first post, here goes: Background on the Car: 1984 Subaru 155K miles. I bought this car not running. I don't know much of the history other than it hasn't been on the road since 2002. The previous owner parked it because it stopped running. After inspecting the motor and pulling the plugs, I found coolant in all four cylinder heads; intially, I thought that the motor had blown head gaskets- but then after reading several posts on USMB, it got me thinking the intake manifold gaskets were bad. This would explain why I had coolant in all four cylinders. So, I went ahead and pulled the intake manifold last weekend- and, to my surprise, found the passenger side coolant passage completely blocked with this white waxy/pasty gunk. I have no idea what this substance was, it reminded me of Elmer's Glue white paste. The blockage was about 1" thick. The only thing I can think of is that the previous owner added "Head Gasket Sealent" attempting to seal the coolant leak that was getting into the heads and the stuff sealed up the intake coolant port. So, I cleaned this blockage out the best I could using the head of a flat head screw driver and flushed the coolant ports out with water. I just finished cleaning the intake manifold mating surfaces in preperation for the new gaskets. I have also replaced the thermostat and thermostat gasket while the intake is off. My question is: Since the intake is already off, should I replace the head gaskets as well? I'm worried that after putting the new intake gaskets on, I'll find out that the head gaskets are bad and have to replace the intake gaskets twice (cleaning those mating surfaces was not fun and I would hate to do it twice!). If I don't pull the heads and just replace the intake gaskets, how should I go about getting the coolant out of the cylinder heads? When I turn the motor over with a wrench I can see coolant in the intake port as well as see pooling coolant looking through the spark plug hole. Should I consider flushing out the clyinder heads, then sucking out the water and coolant with a pump? Check out this pictures I took of the gaskets and unkown blockage substance: http://www.dropbox.com/sh/nnwoarop3cy5g3v/AAB1IrYALGDwwEL3_-LZv3gVa?dl=0 I would really appreciate any advice people have.
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