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Vehicles

  1. Problem has been happening since I bought the car. Whenever I go to floor it the rpm's die down a few hundred, for about one whole second, and then shoot to redline. Problem has been happening on hitachi and weber. (this is the reason I swapped). New ignition coil, wires and plugs. Cap and rotor look good, but should I replace those? This is mostly a problem in gear, letting the clutch out without having rpms at like 6k will cause the car to die. Was thinking a fluid change is in order? Maybe seafoam? When the engine is not under load it almost always only dives down, and doesn't die. Also, how are nn a/c cars' alternators attached? Just with the one bolt? I took off my a/c and that's all I ran for a little bit (hour max) but it seems to get loose too quickly and has destroyed my water pump bearing. How are yours held on? Pics are welcome Thanks -CL
  2. Im still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. I was able to purchase the car for $2500. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done: The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here were someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more. I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was hte problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
  3. Hi All I've been struggling with a fuel issue in my EA81 engine (in a converted VW btw). I have finally gotten to the bottom of it and though I would share my experience for others experiencing similar problems... Problem: Engine failing after sustained periods of acceleration - bucking, lagging for 5-10 seconds, then starting again. Work undertaken: Fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced, carbi rebuilt Solution: Problem caused by fuel pressure/vacuum build up. It is understood that the engine originally had a fuel vacuum relief (either on filter or fuel cap), which had been removed in the process of replacing parts i.e. capping line to charcoal canister, fuel filter etc. The solution was to allow for venting via the fuel cap.
  4. So I've put up a go fund me and am hoping to get help from you guys! I am turning my 83 wagon into a rally car. Right now I am working on the weight reductions and the suspension. I'm hoping to participate in some races next spring and summer. It would be awesome to have a USMB rally car to get some attention to the forums. If it's allowed I will post the link below. Please tell me if it needs to be removed due to rules. If anyone could lend some time helping me with various things (Ideas on suspension, Ideas on weight reductions and drivetrains that might work with a higher powered EA81. I plan on getting most of the forged parts from RAM. Not sure about which turbo I want but will figure that out when the motor part of the build comes along. Here's the link if anyone wants to throw a few bucks towards this build. Any help at all... Even encouragement is greatly appreciated. http://www.gofundme.com/baja500racecar Any suggestions for body and paint? I am going to research bed liners and possible cover it in a rhino line... If it won't effect air and weight.
  5. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
  6. So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
  7. Howdy folks, long time lurker here, finally piping up with some questions. I’ve recently acquired a Gen 1 Brat with an EA81 motor and tranny swap. Things are running fine and it’s currently on the road, but I’m looking to drive it from Las Vegas back home to Toronto in a couple of months time when my current gig ends. To do so, I’m trying to compile a list of everything I’m gonna need to replace, acquire, fix and torque down. I’m hoping the USMB can help me out on this front as I try to get everything sorted out. First on the list, I’d like to replace the front axles - the boots on both are completely shot. I’ve read here that a lot of folks prefer having their original axles rebuilt rather than buying replacements. For my purposes, I’ll certainly hold on to my originals for future use, but to drive across the country, I’ll be looking to swap in some new ones. Word on the street is that EMPI have decent build quality, do Gen 1’s and Gen 2’s share the same axle assembly? Rockauto seems to suggest they don’t but it’s not totally clear. Do folks at USMB have a preferred vendor for EMPI? Lastly, if I’m replacing the axles I feel like I might as well do the wheel bearings too - is there anything else that falls in the same category of “might as well replace it” while the wheels and axles are off? I’ve got many more questions as I look to drop a weber on it, delete the EGR, tune up the cooling, switch over to Pertronix from points and possibly upgrade the alternator to a GM, but for now, any guidance regarding my axles and associated upgrades would be tremendously appreciated. Lastly, here’s a pic for those of you that are interested.
  8. Ok so I asked a while ago if it was possible to do wheel bearings without a press and the answer was a definite yes. So probably in June, maybe July, I will be getting them done. I have never done them before but I am very confident in my abilities. I can take a Hitachi carb apart almost blindfolded because ive done it so many times trying to locate my annoying problem . So my line of thinking is, "Hey, wheel bearings can't be half as bad as the Hitachi!". Anyways, I will be gathering info through this thread in the coming weeks so I know what to expect before I go in there. So to start off, I have two questions: first, is this grease suitable? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=s9_simh_co_p263_d8_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=typ-top-left-1&pf_rd_r=0VMM53W26YNTRN8NPDZG&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1827489602&pf_rd_i=typ01 Or should I use this grease? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYFSEDA?psc=1 Second, where is the best place to buy wheel bearings?
  9. So now that my brat is becoming more and more done, I'm getting ready to tackle the heat. Well, lack of it. When I turn the dial absolutely nothing happens. I deleted the a/c, but it wasn't working before that anyway. Where should I start my chase for the fix of the problem? Down the rabbit hole I go.....
  10. I wanna do somethin like this eventually For the front, I was thinking just recreating the stock one out of much more strudy material, like some 2x2 thick wall, and working in the radius rods. I'm guessing a ej 5 lug swap would be needed for strength. Axles would be a pita. Rear would be harder, Especially since I have a torsion bar. Would just replacing the tortion bar with some hard tubing, and then recreating the rear with the same stuff as the front, and then some nice struts all around. Other ideas and input would be amazing. Need some ideas
  11. Seems like if you're going to make a subframe and drop the original one, you could offset it a few inches forward. Would make your approach angle 0 and let you climb up vertical walls. Anyone done this? Theoretically you could do this to the rear axle as well, but would probably look funky as heck. Anyone ever done it? Only issue I can see is steering, and if you use too thin walled material, bending. Thoughts? Opinios?
  12. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDRkNHRlhzcXNyNWs/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDM0I0MVp5RmxYMG8/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDMnZ0T1FwMllqQjA/view?usp=sharing Links above are Pictures. Just wondering what tubes I really need. Deleted and capped the egr yesterday. Weber should be here in a few days.
  13. Picture attached. I need to know if the thing that's pointed to comes off, and where I can get one if it does. My current exhaust is welded to it. Pic isn't mine
  14. Step 1: Cut the wishbone out of you old ea81 shock. I cut the metal circle twice, knocked that off, cut out some rubber, used a hammer to bash the metal back and stripped the rubber off Step 2: Take new strut (both sides have to be eyelets) and put it in a vise, clamp towards where you're putting this, metal is solid up there Step 3: Lubricate. Put grease everywhere, inside the eyelet on the wishbone. step 4: Take vise grips and grap the circle part very tightly Step 5: Work the tip of the wishbone into the hole Step 6: Hammer the wishbone in Finished product is attached
  15. I have an EA81 hardtop coupe that is fwd, and my front wheels are shot, as well as having bald tires. I have a pair of 5 lug wheels just sitting around, so i was wondering if it was possible to convert the rear to a 5 lug. It has drum brakes in the rear. Plus, I think that it would be pretty sweet.
  16. Is it true that you can use Mazda Miata rear shocks to lower the rear of an ea81? I have a fwd hardtop, so I can't just adjust the trailing arm to lower it.
  17. I finally got my car running, and took it for a drive. Here's what my problem is: * My car idles really low, and it will die unless I give it gas. * Sometimes, when I press the gas pedal, it will stick. * It backfires at higher rpms when I'm cruising. * The ECS light is on. I've replaced the spark plug wires and both the main and secondary fuel filters. What should I check next?
  18. Hey Guys. I am having fun with my fully restored Brat that I got from a fellow board member, but I have been presented a new problem. Intermittenly, the stupid transmission does not want to come out of 4th gear!! I can sometimes "slam" it, and it will come out, other times, I have to let clutch out slightly to let it grab, then, push it out of fourth. Other times, no freaking issues at all. Any idea what this can be? Good thing I have a spare 5 speed I will be prepping to stick in there when I get some time (depending on issue, maybe sooner than later). let me know.. Thanks!!!
  19. So I can't get the pin off that goes through the end of the clutch cable and the clutch pedal. I can't figure out how to pull the pedal either. Please help me.
  20. I bought this car for $350 a few weeks ago.The body is in really great shape. The interior was terrible and by my standards that's saying something lol, there were no brakes, some electrical stuff is a bit off (No turn signals and fuel pump is hardwired to a fuse), and a lot of oil leaks. It needs a clutch cable too. So far, I've put a new oil pump in, an oil pan gasket, Subaru xt seats, Honda accord rear seats, new brake pads and rotors, spark plugs, and an air filter. I gutted a lot of the soiled interior. It runs great and sounds even better since the muffler had been previously sawed off in the middle of the car.... It won't let me post pictures for some reason.
  21. First post to this board. Just bought a 84 GL. Only one of the four wheel drives works. When the normal 4x4 light is on it won't engage gears. It's like I'm in neutral. When I pop it to 4 lo it works but the guy that sold it to me said he thought that was the only 4 wheel option and he took it up to speeds much higher than 4 low can get to. It is a Manuel, and has a ea81 brat motor in it. I would like to get both working. Just wondering how big a fix this might be. Thank you.
  22. So the other day my brat started idling super slow on me, like it was going to sleep on me. Sometimes it would idle slowly enough that it would quit. Before this started happening I had adjusted the idle speed so that it idled at a little below 1000 RPMs, but now it was idling around 200-300.. It's not overheating, but when it happened the engine was at normal operating temperature. I checked the oil and that is fine. I checked all the wires on the spark plugs and they were snug. I simply adjusted the idle speed screw so that it was back up to around 1000 RPMs, and it runs normally now, but at first (right after I adjusted it) the engine was hiccuping, or lapsing rather. What could be wrong with it? I fear that by simply adjusting the idle speed screw I'm only treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem.
  23. When my dad first acquired what is now my soobie, he had a tune up done on it, and a block heater put in. its REALLY nice to be able to start it so easily in sub zero idaho temps. But when I went to start it this afternoon (outside temp was about 8 degrees fahrenheit) I had the ROUGHEST cold start I have EVER experienced with this car! the temp gauge confirmed that although I had it plugged in, the car did not heat up the way it normally does when I have it plugged in all night. Something went haywire, and im lost as to what it could be. I plugged it in again today when the engine was cold, and normally you can hear a very audible "hiiisssssssss" when the block heater is working but I heard nothing. Any ideas??
  24. Spotted a white 1st gen legacy going through Sandy Oregon today with a factory 1st or 2nd gen factory winch bumper on it. I was to slow to catch up to it since the light turned red, plus i needed to go to dmv to get plates for my brat. If any body knows whose it is let me know or if you see it get their number for me i want to buy the winch bumper.
  25. Anyone used a jeep (cj7) tcase to do the tcase mod? After monster brat fell through due to the rust, I'm hoping to salvage some of it. Everything that isn't frame or engine is bueno and I have 8" c channel from its bumpers (no rust) to use for the lift. Any disadvantage to doing it with the jeep tcase?
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