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Hey all, I finished a Frankenmotor build about a month ago. I used the short block out of a '96 OB, and the heads from a '96 Legacy. I surfaced the heads on my own via the flat board/sandpaper method. I used .056" thick Cometic MLS headgasket with their hybrid pattern. This is my third HG replace dealing with a Subaru motor, and I have other background experience with Toyota motors. I'm just trying to convey that I'm not unfamiliar with these things, nor to say that I'm an expert. I have found coolant seeping from the passenger-side head upon start up. It'll seep out onto the exhaust and smoke. After running to temperature/driving, the seepage stops and all is dry underneath. I have not seen any white smoke from out of the tailpipe; usage from the over-flow tank is not unreasonable. I followed the directions for headbolt tightening via the FSM. Doing this before, I've yet to see this seepage. But I was also using OEM headgaskets from Subaru. The MLS HG was pretty beefy. The rings surrounding the combustion chambers were aggressive. I've talked with some big-power-turbo Subaru enthusiasts, and they've mentioned different specifics for the torque. They use 30-60-90ft-lbs (I believe those were the numbers they referenced...) increment increases (first tightening is 30ft-lbs, second go around 60ft-lbs...). Is it possible that the FSM procedure doesn't squeeze the MLS HG enough? Can I safely tighten the head bolts now? Say another 25-45 degrees? Or is there an torque end-value that is actually achieved via the FSM process? Or is this a moot point, and I should be preparing for a HG replacement? I watch my gauges and fluids religiously, so I know that I could probably get away with driving it more without overheating. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg

Hey all. I keep finding JDM EJ22 motors on Ebay out of Legacy LSi's with about 40k on the clock. I'm wondering if there are marked differences between USDM and JDM blocks that would make parts hard to find? Thinking this could be a great candidate motor for a swap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-98-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2L-ENGINE-JDM-EJ22-LEGACY-LSi-Engine-EJ22-Automatic-4wd-/371159568581?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item566ad590c5&vxp=mtr Years available generally look to be from 94-98. Thanks! W

What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!

hey guys i also have a ej22 with single port exhaust and was wondering if any of you would know where i could find the part number for those cylinder heads. i cant seem to find them / it anywhere. I picked up a 98 legacy with a 96 ej22 with bent valves for dirt cheep and i am looking to hunt down some good remanufactured and or new cylinder heads depending on the cost. What do you think would be my best value ?

I have a 99 OBW that I've done a 2.2 swap in. I'm needing to replace the valve stem seals and I was wondering if anyone has ever done this job in the car? I figure I have a little more room to do so with if be a ej22 so I hope I can do it.

So.. I'm back in with you guys, funny how that worked out. Wasn't looking for a Subaru, but I couldn't pass this one up If RallyAlex is reading this, sorry bud! As much as I hate to, had to pass on the White Lightning wagon :/ I almost regret that decision, but hey I was about to buy a Toyota SR5 truck, didn't expect to jump back two decades, I have to be weened back on the Subitol I have to point out, this is my 100th post, coming with my second Subie, THAT'S how it's done Thank you all for all the help thus far, Best garddarn forum on the globe! I'll be working through a few minor issues, and scowering the forum for information as usual. I'll go ahead and drop the topics, in case anyone would like to chime in 1/7 Blown driver's door speaker 2/7 one rear window is slow going back up (auto windows), wind noise on the highway (frameless doors yay, gotta love'em gotta hate'em) I've heard of lubing up the window rollers. Would cleaning and conditioning the seals for the doors and windows help? 3/7 Rear diff had oil splotch, how do I go about checking the oil level? 4/7 Plan on replacing the rear spring/strut assemblies. ...Monroe aftermarket, or pick and pull? The former is decently cheap. 5/7 Horn is going out, luckily I still have my low-tone I was going to use to upgrade mee Mazda3. 6/7 One rust spot near the rear wheel well, NEED to take care of that asap. 7/7 Full tune-up, timing belt might be original. Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles.. like *du-duuuuh vroom* like if it lacked the energy to turn over. I imagine a fresh set of plugs, and the timing belt and oil change should take care of this. Coolant flush ASAP, brake bleed seems in order as well. ~A little TLC and some SeaFoam never hurts, That seems to be all folks!

The car: 1996 Legacy, 90,000 miles, 4EAT transmission, new plugs at 60k, new fuel filter at 70k. Symptoms: Loud metal on metal clanking sound when driving up steep hills. The sound is like the sound of a crinkling can but repetitive. Only happens up hills when RPMs are slowing because of increased load from road grade steepening. If I let up on the gas the sound stops and if I floor it and the transmission shifts down the sound stops. The sound is audible with the windows up and is very loud. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart! I just bought the car and used 87 octane on the first fill. The second tank i used 93 octane and am still getting the sound when pushing a bit uphill. Anyone have any idea?

Has anyone tried these? Can anyone vouch for them? This is the link for my car: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DM9SZPI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6JK0PO3GJYXY If not I'll buy the Timken part from Rockauto. FYI the Amazon part is $34 including seals and snap ring. The Rock auto is a lot more as you purchase each part separately. Thanks in advance. As you know the job sucks I don't want to save 50% and do it again next year. Pressed bearings suck!

I just put a new, to me (used rack}. I put in cheap power steering fluid as I intend to flush the system and replace. I have to assume rack and my handiwork will produce contaminants. How long should I wait before I change? I was thinking a month (I drive about 1,400 miles per month. Thanks in advance! If this is elsewhere and I missed it, sorry.

I'm trying to ID what part is leaking on my 92 Legacy Wagon. I recently replaced a bad A/C compressor unit and noticed liquid under the car (maybe 12oz or so). I started the engine and traced the leak to the front left of the engine near the outer passenger CV boot area. I have not seen the leak again and the day it appeared, the heat was about 99F and the car was running with A/C for 45 min. Any help on finding out what this is would be greatly appreciated.

98 ej22 in a Legacy L. ~141k I'm pretty stumped at this point and I appologize for a long post - bare with me here: After an oil change I start the engine with the knock sensor disconnected. I then reset the ECU or clear the code. Don't ask me why - it prevents the bogging issue - it works for me. After the latest oil change at 140k (Castrol 10w-40, FRAM filter), however, I have been getting the typical knock sensor bogging issue even after the tribal oil change dance. I moved the knock sensor to the location of a factory ground point (on bracket above starter), reset the ECU and drove for about 100 miles. Knocking? Yes. Hesitation, bogging BS? No. Corrosion was apparent on the mating surfaces so I sanded them back to clean metal. I then tried the old knock sensor in the factory location, reset ECU and got no joy. I do observe the ~15mile learning cycle by the ECU before it begins to bog. It is at this point I was confident a new knock sensor would fix my woes. I purchased a new Knock Sensor from Autozone and installed in correct location with about 15 ft-lbs making sure to orient the wire lead so that it was clear of block protrusions. Reset the ECU and got no joy. Now I started to suspect a bad connection so I cut the wire and hardwired the old knock sensor in sans connector. That resulted in no change of symptoms (see note 1 below). Now I was becoming befuddled and a bit ticked off. I can change the performance of the car by relocating the knock sensor but a new one won't fix the problem. I figured I didn't need a new knock sensor and, at this point, I started to march down the path of "Gee, maybe there's too much knock!" so I returned the new KS to Autozone. I drained/refilled and burped (to death) cooling system and installed a new thermostat (the bigger OEM type) and a new rad cap. Operates right around 180-190F according to OBDII data so it is not running hot. Then I went after the ignition system a bit: I installed $40 NGK wires and NGK Irridium plugs gapped to a tight 40 thou. I also installed 500 pounds of copper all over the place to enhance grounding. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the igniter and it's mounting plate, although the igniter is currently sitting on two ring terminals - one as a spacer only - the other with a lead directly to a ground point on same sheet metal platform igniter is mounted to. The coils are about 25k miles old and I have an older set which I have swapped out with no change in symptoms. The coil contacts are clean and I use dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Then I filled up with high octane gas and reset the ECU. With the original KS installed in factory location I still got the bogging issue. When I move the KS to my off-the-block location the bogging goes away and there's no audible knock with high octane gas. So, at least I know that high octane gas really has a higher octane. After all this I went to the junkyard to source an OEM connector and soldered it in. There is a short section where the sheilding is soldered together but the rest is completely sheilded - see note 1 below. I then went back to Autozone to buy a new knock sensor. I did this with the hope that I would get another knock sensor (not the one I returned) but I got the same one. I'll ask and see if I can try another next time I'm by there. I purchased a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII adapter (cool tool) and tried to read engine parameters with Torque Lite. All I got was engine temp and load so an actual analysis of engine parameters was a dead end there. (If I buy Torque PRO will it give more engine data or is my car just too old-school?) At this point I'm thoroughly stumped. I will check the main harness connections but I don't expect anything to come of it. I saw some other threads on USMB with good info but it seems the threads just died without any real resolution - here, here, and here. I can't imagine it is anything other than knock sensor related. My next steps are to check the car's recall history and see if I can get a hold of a second new knock sensor to test the infant mortality theory. If a third knock sensor makes no change perhaps the ECU is to blame. All pointers/tips/ideas are welcome and appreciated! I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and can surmise that the real need for the sheilding on the knock sensor wire is when ignition parts begin to leak their current i.e. a leaky spark plug cable that is jumping to metal on the engine somewhere rather than fully to the plug. I can't imagine that there is any other source of electrical interference in the engine bay that could induce electric current in the wire - mine was a short, unsheilded piece which, I believe, means there has to be a LOT of unshielded current flowing somewhere else before any induction will take place in the short unsheilded wire to the knock sensor.

Spent Halloween working on my own Frankenstein super lifted T-cased Subaru project. 86 Isuzu Trooper diesel Front frame. Cut just behind the torsion mounts. Keeping the Isuzu A-arms, knuckles, hubs, brakes. Hooking up to Subaru 4.11 Diff using hybrid Isuzu and EA81 Axles. EJ steering rack with Isuzu tierods. Nissan 720 Transfercase Here's some teaser pics. Not sure it's really what I want to do......but it's a start.

so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.

The Basics: 1993 Legacy Wagon. 2.2 engine with 109k on it. Automatic transmission. AWD. So we pulled the engine using the instructions from http://beergarage.com/ and YouTubes from the MercedesDieselGuy. The instructions we all good, but Beergarage was pulling a Stick shift and the Videos were great but glossed over a few points that I NOW know. I need advise on two different points. 1. One of the things that I missed in pulling it apart was removing the 4 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter. When we pull it apart the TC was still attached to the Flywheel. Before we reassembled, I pull the TC off and then feed it back onto the transmission spindle and rotated it until is seated all the way back on the spindle.After getting it all back together and turning the engine over for the timing test, a big puddle of ATF appeared on the floor...... HELP 2. After: carefully getting the crank shaft spindle lined up on the TDC mark; AND both cam spindles lined up on the top center marks on the cover; AND getting the timing belt marks all lined up on the spindles and marks; AND all the of the engine put back together - We cranked it over and it would not start. We rechecked all the wiring plugs and hose connections and tried again. Still no luck. What am I missing????? Thanks in advance for your HELP! Patrick

Searched with no luck. Anybody got the cometic part # for the gasket to put EJ22e heads onto the EJ25 block?

Saw an interesting local ad for a 1995 Outback with the 2.5. Only 155k miles. I have not checked the car out yet but I have gotten conflicting info about whether or not that motor was offered for the '95. Is the owner mistaken?

Hi everyone, thought I'd show you what my friend and I have been working on. We are currently making a prototype ej22 single port header that we plan to produce and sell. The prototype Header features CNC plasma cut 3/8" flanges, mandrel bends, our own Collector/Diffuser, 1.75" 16 Guage Primaries and Tig Welds all around. In the future we will be offering these in Mild steel with a few coating options, or 304 ss. The prototype is of EL design and currently has 39" and 35" primaries. When production begins we will have the Headers Equal Length +/- 2". For all of you who prefer a nice rumble, we'll be offering a UEL design as well. As many or you know the stock collector for the ej22 is absolute garbage and is one of the main choking points in the exhaust. Our collector solves this problem and Improves scavenging effect through the primaries. Another side effect of proper collector design is that regardless of the EL or UEL design, both Headers will have excellent performance gains. Here is a comparrison between the Collectors for all you visual learners. Sound clips coming soon. Shooting for a price range of around 300$ + Shipping for Mild Steel with gaskets, we'll have an excel order sheet shortly, there you'll be able to choose a variety of primary diameters, materials and coating options. For more information or requests for custom work, feel free to contact us at: Millercleanfabrication@gmail.com Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Or simply reply to this thread

So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released.

I have a 1984 gl 4spd duel range. I have a clean 92 ej-22 sitting in the garage. A friend will sell me a harness and ecu for 50$. I still need a fuel pump, clutch,trans plate, re drilled flywheel, high pressure fuel line, front wheel bearings, fluids, and a cv axle. I have about $500 saved up. Can i get the swap done with this much money? i cant afford to have my car not be usable for more then a few weeks. Any input would be appreciated, thank you.

Greetings to the group, I've been a 'lurker' for a long time and keep watching the threads about EJ22 updates. I have a 83 EA81 BRat, which I dearly love. It is not a daily driver, but when it is taken out, it is often for a long distance...two or three hundred miles each way. I am planning to do some minor rust removal and paint work; but I just ran across a local 95 Legacy 2.2 4WD manual transmission, with 209K miles, that has some well bent sheet metal. It is being sold as a parts car. It is all there, having just been towed to the owners home after the accident. I have only seen pictures at this point. They are asking $500 for the whole thing. I was not planning on this project, but the opportunity to get a whole donor, close to home, has arrived. As I understand, I will either need to use an adapter plate to retain my 4-spd D/R tranny, or forgo the D/R and use the non D/R 5-speed tranny from the donor chassis. Is this correct, or is there another tranny option I also understand I will need to do a lot of wiring modifications to accommodate the FI computer and different ingition system. The owner says the car does have some minor oil leaks, (with 200+ K on it I'm not surprised) but that it was running just fine prior to the accident. The major damage is to the right front suspension. If it was not for the broken strut and bend lower A-arm, it looks like it could have been driven home. Am I overlooking anything serious? Any major or minor "GOTCHA'S" I am going to look at the car this evening. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Rod J

Hey guys i'm relatively new to subaru's so i don't know much about them at the moment so i was wondering if you guys could enlighten me on a few details. And yes i have searched through the forums and google but i can't seem to find much info on anyone swapping from a ej20 to a phase 1 ej22. Everywhere i could find was about people swapping out a ej25 to 22. I was wondering what i would need to replace/ modify to get the ej22 into the 2000 forester(manual) I am using the ej22 as it was the engine in my last car which i still have but with a blown head gasket and 350 thousand km's (doesn't blow smoke just compression gasses going into the cooling system atm) and I want to pull the engine out of the car and replace the head gasket with a thinner one, pulley's with light weight ones, maybe a lightweight flywheel. Maybe even cams, Pistons and conrods depending if i can get the money when i start putting the engine back together By the way the ej22 is out of my 1991 FWD Liberty LX (auto) or Legacy everywhere else P.S I apologise for the somewhat disjointed post as it's quite late for me in sydney

I recently picked up a 96 legacy OB, 190k miles, fairly complete maintenance records to 175k, EJ22 motor, manual tranny. The engine makes a ton of noise, which I have gathered is normal, but the ticking / knocking is louder than most videos I have looked at. Initially i assumed lifter tick - replaced 1 qt oil with MMO, drove around. 500 miles later, not difference, if anything it is louder now... Bought some valve cover gaskets, plan to pull the lifters this weekend and see what they look like. Thought it might be a fuel injector, so i tried disconnecting each of the injectors on the driver side one at a time, no difference. symptoms: coming from driver side head (seemingly). louder from above the engine than if i crawl underneath. Tried to do some ghetto stethoscoping, but wasnt able to pinpoint it. Noise is present cold OR warm, idle or rev, coast or accelerate. Noise does get a little quieter when warm, but is still very much present. car drives fine, doesnt have all that much power, but I am not familiar enough with the ej22 to know if it is "normal" or not. No CEL or pending trouble codes in the computer (once i cleared the ones from my injector test ). video of engine running here: http://youtu.be/gzz8o9zHDYE I also looked at the sound clip, tick is every 2 engine revolutions, unfortunately most everything it could be happens once every 2 revs... it sounds too high pitch to be a rod knock, too deep to be lifter tick, too quiet under the engine to be a crank bearing, could be piston slap? I think piston slap would change more as it warms up, and it is never really cold here in CA, so the engine is never started all that cold. Plus I though piston slap would get quieter with a disconnected fuel injector? any suggestions would be appreciated! I love my sooby, but its a bit embarrassing to drive through downtown like this....

Hey guys, I am thinking about taking on an EJ22 to EJ20T heart transplant for my 99 OBS, had a few questions: MY OBS has the 5 speed MT 1) what years of WRX with EJ20T should I look for? 2) What all components do I need to take from other car: brakes, ECM, harness, exhaust, etc (not looking to change dash)? 3) what should I absolutely avoid in the process? (tips/tricks) 4) Should I keep my "glas trans" or should I grab the WRX tranny and rear end to match the gears too? Thanks everyone. this is a killer forum. Cheers.

Have my 99 OBS with EJ22, 120K on engine, 173k on chassis, Weapon R Dragon Short ram Intake (no CEL over rides needed) new timing belt, plugs & Wires. I've owned it since 140K and done some restorative maintenance on the powertrain (tranny bearing, center diff, CVs, U-joints, back to stock exhaust setup) When moderately accelerating in any gear from low RPM to high RPM ( 1200- 3200) it hesitates/hiccups until 3200/3400 when it cleans up and picks up steam solidly. Damn near like hitting a powerband on your 2stroke dirtbike! like when a boggy turbo finally overcomes lag and boost kicks in (mind you this thing is not turboed!). ALso it is critical to note I am not changing the throttle position during acceleration, just depressing the pedal to mid throttle and waiting for it to tach up so it will stop hiccuping and get my butt down the road. No DTCs according to the Innova, timing is on according to spec. If I drive miss daisy it will accelerate smoothly up through the tach range. Hypotheses so far: 1) clogged fuel filter 2) fuel pump working on taking a crap 3) clogged injectors 4) gremlins, drunken gremlins

Hello, I'm currently converting my 1992 Legacy EJ22 to LPG and I have a problem to get an engine speed signal. the wiring diagram for the LPG control unit tells me to connect the corresponding wire to ignition coil minus or to another signal with min. 4 Vpp (peakt-to-peak voltage). Since there's no minus at the ignition coil, I took the minus at the igniter. But I don't get a proper signal there. Has anyone an idea, where to connect that wire? Thanks!