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Showing results for tags 'Ej22'.
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Hello everyone I'm new to the forum, also new to the Subaru owner ship. I recently bought a 1995 Subaru impreza 2.2L, automatic with Ej22 engine, and 4dr. I got it really cheap and it was running fine and smooth. Recently it started leaking oil and it's dripping on the down pipe I think, and also power steering is leaking. But the thing is I don't know where the leak is coming from. If any of you ever had this problem please help me out narrowing it down so I know what to fix, and buy. I tried putting all info I could think of, and sorry if this had been asked before. Thank you for reading and hope I can get some help and guidance thank you. -
Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks -
like to say whats up first of all, never been a member on a forum so please forgive my noobness. i recently acquired a 2000 impreza L wagon to screw around drive to school and back and beat up. but i have had so much fun with it i want to keep and give it a better life than what it had in vermont. its got 125k on the clock and is rustier than all heck, i want to take it to a shop and get it check out to see if its still safe or worth investing money into it. the only thing i could think of making this subaru 10 more badass is turboing it. i wanna keep the whole sleeper and college kid look to it. http://www.automersion.com/2015/05/turbo-your-non-turbo-subaru-ej22/ i found this article and it fits what I'm planning to do. my only question is when it comes to getting a wrx header and up pipe and crossmember what years can i get. other than that how much would it cost time and money wise or a noob like me to get this project done or would it be cheaper and better to get it done else where thanks
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so i am pretty new to subaru's I have driven them and helped a few pepole do small stuff. But any way I was on CL the other day saw a ad selling a ej22 phase for 75 bucks 150 with the manifold (ad said it had a spun bearing). So i figured hell why not just buy it and learn on the worst thing that could happen is I learn something new. Got it home started to take it apart i should have the block split by today. So my goal as of right now is throw better cames on it new rods and pistons boost it and throw it in something lol. So the pics are what i have taken apart right now. Update:i saw this ad cl for 2005 impreza sti heads anyone know if this will fit if so do you for see any issues i may run into?
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threw a code for tps (94 legacy ej22) replaced with new one. aligned with paint marks but still throwing the code, getting a sputter at WOT from a dead stop randomly, especially when not at full operating temp -
I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy that has a strong engine but it smokes intermittently (not always but usually) in a big puff when I am traveling down a mountain (I live in Colorado) on the interstate and I begin to accelerate after costing in gear a good ways down to help slow the decent. More recently will also let out a smaller puff of smoke while traveling down the interstate at a constant speed in a more level place like Denver if I start accelerating, although that doesn't happen as consistently. I have replaced the timing belt twice (it's been happening the last 40,000 miles) and understand this procedure as well as have done it on multiple cars. It is definitely not a timing problem. I am curious if the issue is a result of some sort of blow by, rings, or if there is some other possibility such as intake parts/valves that could need replaced? Ideas? I would like to resolve this without having to take the long block engine apart if possible! Overall the EJ22 runs as strong as any I have had and there is no suggestion she is ready to quit. There is roughly 230,000 miles on this well maintained machine. -
Backstory: We purchased a 1995 Impreza L. It was originally equipped with an EJ18, but has an EJ22. It has run like crap the entire time and recently emptied the oil, due to a 0.45 cal hole in the oil pan. We have removed the engine and cracked the case for the rebuild. I found that the engine came from a 1995 Legacy Wagon 4EAT. I have several issues that I want to address. 1. There are vacuum lines disconnected and plugged. From experience, these are crucial to the computer deciding how the engine runs. I believe it has the original EJ22 intake manifold. I need help here. 2. Since this engine was in an AT, the MT requires the Timing belt guide plate. Which part is appropriate for this. Note: the timing keeps slipping. 3. Since I am replacing the wear components in the engine, what are the original specs on the crank, rods and cylinders? 4. Is there a solitary kit or will I need to piece together a kit. I have found some kits, but they are missing components that I need or have components I don't need. 5. What would be the proper vacuum hose routing, given this configuration? 6. Any other information that you can think of... Does anyone have information on these issues or know of a source where they have already been answered? This engine is unusual, when compared to others. This is a daddy/daughter project. I have concerns, because I am giving this car to my her and hope that it will carry her for the next 20 years. Thanks, -
I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful. -
I have recently pulled a EJ22 engine to swap into a 94 Legacy that threw the rod. I have removed EJ22 engines a few times on other 2.2L Subies, done timing belts, and it is a fairly simple process. My question is the engine I've found has several oil leaks which I would like to clear up before installing. One of the confusing ones is the Camshaft o-ring replacement. On the back of the engine (passengers side?) it seems like the oil is weeping out of the cover which is bolted down on the head. I understand there is an o-ring in here as well as one on the opposite head in front. Are these o-rings easy to replace and can I get some advise or a link into a string that goes over this? I can't find this process discussed in any depth within the forum.
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Hi. I put 94 legacy n/a into my Vanagon a couple years ago. My first trip to Washington and then south to San Diego yielded mileage of 18-21 per gallon. I took a trip to Sacramento yesterday and got 12 . The van ran strong and seemed to run as usual. I only noticed the fuel wasn't lasting too long. My wife drives the van mostly around town and is always filling up, I figure because of all the stop and go. My idle only seems a tad slow but it has always been that way. I pulled the plugs and did a comp check, 150-160. The plugs looked a bit lean but not like they get hot. I can run at 70 all the way to Sac but generally keep around 60 - 65. The only oddity I see is my first water reserve goes low and doesn't push water into the overflow tank.
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This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated
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I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
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So first off let me say hello, and thanks for this informative site. Im not very experienced in working on my own cars. Ive in a bit of a money crunch these days ad have decided to do some basic stuff myself. I have a Haynes manual which seems to help. Ive succesfully changed the fuel filter and replaced a cracked fuel line. The engine has been running really rough, and cutting off in the middle of the road, especially at stop lights, etc. I took it to the shop for a diagnostic and they said the spark plugs were fouled and the engine was running on three cylinders. I got some new plugs from car quest and they made sure they were gapped there for me. Nice guys, they have offered me some good info before. I changed out the plugs out no problem (didnt use a tork wrench though). The car wouldnt start. I tinkered with the plugs and tightened them a bit and got it running. But the car runs rough still, revving up and down when in park. I took for a spin and it cut off, same as before. I double checked my haynes manual and it looks like I have the wrong plugs and the gap we set it to was wrong. I just wanted to get some opinions and see what people thought, is this the problem? I cant get back to the store to get new plugs for a bit. Im hoping that this will fix the problem though. -
Finally started on the engine removal of my EJ22 so I could get at the oil separator plate replacement. I'm knocking on wood as I write that I didn't have any sheared bolts yesterday, which is always a pleasant surprise. For my maiden voyage, I spent about five hours marking, undoing electrical connections and getting everything undone. The engine is unbolted and ready to lift. My last three hours were in the dark (I don't have a garage, so I'm in my cul-de-sac) and when I went to get the cherry picker set up I realized that there was only a chain, and no quick links or shackles to attach to the lift points. I figured that was a good time to pack up for the night. Those lower engine nuts near the drive shafts were a bit of a bear to get. The passenger side is tight and I had a hard time getting the correct combo to get in there (3/8 wrench with short 14 mm socket was not long enough to clear obstacles, 1/2 with adapter and 14 mm was too long and hit axle cup, 3/8 with deep 14 mm was also too long). Finally was able to crack it using a standard socket so I could get a swivel on it with a 14 and a long extension. The biggest surprises were (1) the number of acorns sitting on top of the block under the intake manifold next to the coolant crossover pipe and (2) how little gas came out of the fuel lines when I disconnected those. (The Beer Garage description had me ready to catch a lot more.) Rain predicted for the next few days so the lift will likely have to wait until the weekend. Then I can replace/reseal the plate and a bunch of other o-rings and seals and tighten up the oil pump screws. For reference I used , the factory service manual, and Beer Garage.
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I'm thinking 25d block, 22e heads, cometic gasket, all with the ej18 intake so I don't have to touch wiring (that stuff scares me ). Doing this for cheap power in my imp. Good or bad idea? Or maybe just throw a 25d block inbetween my heads. I just miss my power from my 2.5gt. -
Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe? -
Hello everyone, just have some general questions regarding my newest purchase. I have recently bought a 1997 Subaru Impreza, engine is an EJ22, 2.2 L, automatic, and only 114k miles. After a couple of weeks with the car, I have a few questions. 1) The brake seems to go halfway to the floor before I get any sort of stopping power. Pumping does not seem to help. I took it to Belle Tire to look at it since it was free. They said the pads and rotors were in good shape, as well as the rear drums. When I asked about the pedal going halfway to the floor, the man working the counter told me his mechanic said it felt fine. I really don't think its normal, but if it is, or someone knows what the reason might be, that would be great to know. I initially thought that it was air in the system, but the previous owner had the brakes done at the dealership, which makes me skeptical that there would be. I didn't see any leaks underneath or on the wheels, and I do not seem to be leaking any brake fluid. 2) recently when I have been starting my car, I've noticed a very slight knock, that goes away once the car heats up. From what I can gather, it seems to do with the oil that's currently in the system? Its only been into the low 40's overnight at best, if that helps at all. I also think it may have sat for a short period of time before it was sent to auction, and subsequently to the dealership I got it from. 3) I've read of head gaskets going bad on Subaru's somewhat frequently. Although I do not think it is, it still has the original gasket so I'm somewhat skeptical. My fluids clean and don't seem to be mixing with anything, but I would like to know how feasible it would be that it is bad, or will be going bad in 2 or so years. 4) Really anything else I should look for/check that has been a problem with the model. Thanks for all of your help in advanced, Trevor -
Ive got a 95 legacy LSi Sedan EJ22 with 170k on it...I finally have a subaru...any way..Ive got a few a Questions.....1. I would like it to be a lil sporty but I wanna keep it N/A...what parts would be good for it exhaust? Intake? MSD?.ECU? Cam?.ect....2..where do I find the front and rear bumper and the side skirts from a 97-98 legacy gt...3...the tranny is about 1/2 of an inch from the block..the owner b4 me said it went out he had it rebuilt an bought a new torque converter...and it would fit back in it...just curious what could cause that...wrong converter?..I have no clue..any help is great -
So I've already got the EJ25, from my legacy, sourcing a 22 block won't be hard. Head gasket is tricky to me, where to modify it for oil lines ect. Also engine management, should I get a megasquirt? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149590-anyone-built-a-reverse-frankenmotor/ I read through this thread which is quite good except there's some things I diassagree with ej22t crank & rods -- same as the non turbo ej25 (NA) block halves. The whole point of this is to use the ej22 short block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with hydro adjusters) -- should be able to just use my heads newer EJ25 flat top pistons -- Aren't my current pistons/ the 22's pistons sufficient? ej20g intake manifold with 440cc injectors -- One of the 2 manifold I have will be good, no? vf8 turbo (ej20g) ej22t exhaust (until I put the downpipe in) ej22t fuel pump 2002 WRX top mount IC ej22t bypass valve (I replaced with the TurboXS one) ej22t ECU & wiring harness. original ej25 harness/ECU is gone, and the ej22t ECU sits in it's place, and is all wired in, and I can check code like normal (ej22t way) -- I shouldn't have to use a 22 turbo block, can just use a normal block, almost the exact same. So the wiring harness mesh is moot then, right? Would absolutely love to do this build, but need to have all the parts before I do the biuld, and have as much of it pre assembled as I can as it's my dd. Thanks - H
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i need help really bad my engine in my 2006 legacy is shot due to a cracked head and i cant find any EJ253s any where iv read online that i could put a 2.2 in my car but i need to know from experts please help me? -
I have my flame suit on so here goes... I've searched for the past 4 hours on here for EJ22 to EJ20T swap threads and came up empty handed. I'm looking to swap an EJ20T from a WRX 02-05 into my 99 OBS with an EJ22 to bring her up to spec with how she was supposed to be imported here into the states before the bureaucraps got in the way! Need to find a build thread which outlines which components I need to grab from the other car. It's my understanding I would only need the Engine (duh), the exhaust components for turbo operation, and the ECM. Does the 99 OBS harness plug directly into the WRX ECM/Engine Harness or do i need to do a harness swap? I have a good line on an EJ20T longblock with a TD0520g turbo, but has rod knock which I can rebuild no problem, have a shop with lift and cherry picker and am not in a hurry so I can build the engine/exhaust etc off the car until ready for install. I am just trying to avoid making a big mistake from a technical oversight with compatibility or missing something obvious. Thanks for the help, and yes I'm sure there is a thread buried out there somewhere.
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Is this normal wear for only 150 miles? Just finished swapping this engine, replacing a profusely leaking oil pump and noticed this. Don't know much about the health of this motor. Is this normal?
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Hello Folks - I am looking for some step by step help with repairing a '97 EJ22 head gasket in car. What I know so far... 1. Drain oil and coolant 2. Remove spark plug/alternator/starter wires etc. 3. Remove intake manifold and attached hoses 4. Remove external belts/pulleys 5. Remove timing belt cover, belt, pulleys 6. Remove heads (Valve covers stay on) 7. Resurface heads, OEM/felpro gaskets only, specific torquing procedure I am concerned with the timing belt removal and re-installation (I understand the '97 is an interference engine). Are there other points of particular concern? I know a few of you on here are very familiar with these engines (grossgary, MilesFox, Gloyale, others I'm sure) and have said it's probably among the easiest subie head gaskets to do. I figure the learning has to start somewhere. Background on the car: Bought a '97 legacy wagon with a new head gasket at 123k miles. 12k miles later it overheated and stalled out (I wasn't driving), lots of oil in coolant, no combustion gasses detected, no coolant visible in oil. Car still ran, I was stranded, so had a shop take a look, top off coolant, drove 300 miles home. Temps were stable all the way, but it's idling a bit rough. Many thanks! -
I recently purchased an EJ22 from a trusted friend of mine. Got it for $200. Includes sensors and wiring attached to the engine (no harness), and AC compressor, flexplate, valve covers, etc. EDIT: does have the harness 'NOTHER EDIT: SHE'S STAYIN' STOCK. My EJ25's starting to overheat so I just need this one together sooner than later... :/ tl;dr version: -need advice on how to rebuild/where to start -what will give me more power without compromising reliability -any general tips Full, rambling and slightly boring version: The story I got is that it was pulled from a car that hit a deer and tweaked the frame, was wrote off as totaled. The last owner intended to build it, however never had the time and hasnt done anything to it. It supposably has 140k on it. Did not come with an oil pan, stored in a cool, dry, fairly clean area as far as I know. I got a "money back guarentee," so if I take the motor apart and find its blown up, the person I bought it from will buy it back. Discovered it is most likely a 97 (see thread "What year is my engine?") however by the way it sits I cannot access where the VIN is supposed to be, so the manufacture date on the oil filler cap is what I am going by for now. Im making this thread to document the build process I will most likely go through. This is a long term project. Im working on a college budget but still am (mostly) financially able to work on it. I am 17 and this is my first major build done alone. Ive been inside small block mopars and AMC I6 motors, however those have all been someone elses under their supervision and I did not do anything besides taking parts out and putting them back/installing new parts. Im also here to ask if anything could be done to improve power output without ruining reliability. I would like to keep this engine tame for daily deiver use eventually, Im waiting for my EJ25D to chew up its head gaskets (its at 81k) and might temproarily swap depending on if/when it happens. Ive done a small amount of research on porting, decking and polishing heads, delta cams, stroker kits, frankenmotors, turbo builds and the sort. Im wondering if anyone has experience building an EJ22. I know a lot can be done with these and they are strong engines for the most part (forged crank, strong bottom end, etc). Im open to NA or turbo, maybe a WRX turbo swap (last owner's intention). My main worry is that upgrades will cause fitment issues, electronic issues, ECM issues, timing issues, and, well pretty much anything that could cause a problem. Essentialy, what should I be aware of and what should I stay away from? The build hasnt started yet, so Im open to any suggestions (within reason, of course) If the motor goes in anyting soon, it would be my 97 OBW EJ25D 4EAT. As stated before, this will be a long term build. Im going to college for Chrysler training and Im an intern in the shop of a Dodge dealer. I have tools (with the exception of specialty tools, air tools, and welding equipment). I just lack in experience.
