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Showing results for tags 'Electrical'.
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Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea? -
Hi everyone, It has been years since I posted anything here, given that we traded our venerable 1996 Outback in on a 2014 model a couple of years back, and I had gotten to the point where I knew just about all there was to know about that old car. But now I'm presented with a new problem, and I'm feeling kind of ignorant all of a sudden. My daughter recently acquired a 2002 Outback H6 VDC sedan, and recently (after a turn signal bulb change) neither the turn signals nor most of the indicators on the instrument cluster are working. I downloaded a service manual for the new old beast, and dutifully traced my way through the wiring, fuses and switches to the point where I'm 90% certain that the Ignition Relay is the culprit, but I can't find it on the vehicle. The manual makes reference to a "relay block" where a number of similar relays seem to be aggregated, but for the life of me I can't find that anywhere. Can one of you guys enlighten me - where can I find the "Ignition Relay" in this H6 VDC? Gracias in advance! -
So I am new here today and I will start by saying I have good mechanical skills and I hate cars. I got married in December and with that came a step-daughter with 1998 outback approaching 300K(she bought it about a year ago). I know nothing about Subaru. I have replaced the clutch and associated hardware in the car. I apologize for the length of this post She called me a little over a month ago to rescue her from a parking lot. I found that the alternator on her car was not charging. I charged her up and ordered a new alternator. She drove the car for two days charging the battery and then taking the short drive to work. On the second day when she was going to bring me the car she called to say it would not start. I drove to her and installed the alternator while charging the battery. After installing the alternator I tried to crank the car over, it cranked but would not start. I checked the spark and it was good, so I started checking fuel, no books, no drawings. I tried to hear the fuel pump but nothing. Now is where it gets weird to me. I stopped to remove a fuel line and check for any sign of pressure or flow and then tried to crank again, nothing....I load checked the battery and it was solid. I went looking for fuses and found none. Did not know where to find fuel relay but that did not matter as the electrical was not getting to the starter solenoid. As the sun was setting I decided to have it towed to my house. The next morning before I left for work I tried it and it started right up. I left a message for the daughter to try it later and she did and it started. She drove it around for a day and the next day she went out and it did nothing again, no crank. That night it cranked but did not start. I found online some information and went in search of the fuel pump. Testing showed voltage on the blue/yellow wire, so I ordered a fuel pump. Her brother and a mechanic friend installed the fuel pump while I was away and it ran fine. 3-4 days later, turn the key no crank. Her mechanic friend said it needed a starter, I disagreed and checked the starter with a remote start switch. All fine there. Next morning it cranked and she drove the car for a couple of weeks with no problem. Monday of this week she drove the car home from work said she was having what sounded like fuel issues to me. She tried to restart it and it would not start. I checked the blue/yellow wire thinking the new pump might be crap and found no voltage. Went and bought a Haynes and looked for answers. I now know where the fuel relay is but i have not dug it out yet as I have not had time. Went out this afternoon and wanted to recheck voltage to pump. Had my wife depress the clutch and hold it down I had her crank it a couple of times. I had her hold the clutch to the floor to try to eliminate a neutral start switch. Without ever letting off the clutch, after 6-7 times cranking, tried to crank again and nothing there. I had it hooked to a battery charger the whole time. Any of this make sense to any of you dear readers? I could use some advice, I noticed when I started to dig for the fuel relay that Subaru's have lots of wires and switch and boxes. Last item. As I was closing up the car I heard a relay clicking on and off. It was flashing the four ways but at half speed of what the 4 way button flashes them. I move the blinker control and it stopped for about 10 second and started again. The daughter has mentioned that sometimes when she parks the car the lights do strange things. Would this have anything to do with the anti theft device? I locked the car up and retreated up to my home office, they were still flashing and then just stopped. Help please -
I have a 2003 Outback and suddenly all of my instrument panel lights have gone out (except odometer light and PRNDL light). Along with these, the bright headlights do not work with the bright on switch when pushed forward, but do work when switch is pulled to flash them. The fog lights aren't working (but I honestly don't know if that has anything connected, as I never use them anyway). The over head light comes on with door opening and by using the light switch itself, but does not come on with the dash dimmer switch. I've checked the fuses and all is well. Any ideas of a source to begin my probing? Thanks -
The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
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Thanks for reading! I replaced the light bulbs in my instrument cluster (speedometer) today, and I noticed a wire harness (male end) pretty much right next to my rear defrost button, which is located on the dash just to the right of the ignition. It appears to be the same size and type of harness plug that the rear defrost uses, however, it is a yellow-brownish color, rather than white like the defrost. (I can only assume that was done purposely to be able to tell which was which) There is no button on the dash besides the rear defrost, and I was unable to find a factory service manual anywhere locally. Does anyone happen to have an e copy of the wiring diagram, or even know off the top of their head what this might have once powered, or can power? If possible, I would like to utilize the plug by adding a switch on the dash, which would control the fog lights I have yet to install. -
I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
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Hello All, I have an issue with a 2001 Subaru Outback that I have never come across before. In the middle of moving from Albuquerque to Hawaii my Outbacks air conditioning dyed at the californai state boarder in route to Los Angeles (about 100 deg. at time). For ~ 2 months prior to this trip the check engine light would come on, but would turn off usually after I removed the gas cap then put gas cap back on... figure old cap not keeping pressure. Okay, fast forward from california boarder to three weeks later after picking up outback it now has check engine light on continuously. Week after that (~ 300 miles on car since air conditioning went out), I noticed when car was stopped at a stop light or in a parking lot still running, the temperature gage would begin to rise toward the red zone (over heating)... when I could drive the temp gage heads back toward the normal temp operating range... At this point you might be thinking, relay?, fan?, plugged radiator?, makes sense. The car is NOT over heating, infact the mechanic actually took the radiator cap off while the cars temp gage was "red lining", and of course we could hear/see that the fan is kicking on. Now stuck in traffic, you can put the car in neutral and rev the engine to "kick on" the coolant pump, and the temp gage would come back down to normal temp range, you can open the vents, crank up the hot air (do not have working ac at this time) and buy some time before the temp gage crawls up to red line.... My problem here is... what on the planet can cause a car to read like it's overheating without it overheating? Yet, causes the air conditioner to stop working, since the check engine light (read cooling problem) was cleared the car has continued to repeat the above issue without triggering the check engine light... With the age and milage I would just let this go as a unique quirck, however Hawaii is hot, I have a 2.5 year old, and AC would be nice, but why spend money on recharging etc... if this problem might just kill it again? The mechanic thinks it's electrical, but does not do electrical. Other than the temp gage reading like a perfect fan/relay/plugged poblem and the AC dying nothing else is wrong with this car. This is a tough one, any ideas my fellow subinites might have will be greatly appreciated.... Thank you! -
Anyone have a fix for this issue that these seem to have? My passenger side I wiggle the wires a little and it comes on the drivers side goes out. I just got the car but I had this issue on my 01 legacy gt. I'm going to try contact cleaner and that gel stuff they try to sell you at the store. -
Hey there, I own a 1986 Standard 2dr Hatchback that came standard with the two single large round lights. They work fine, but as a side project I was looking to convert them over to the four square light setup as both a practical and aesthetic upgrade. There are times that the rounds just don't produce enough light even with the highs on and having the four lamps seems like the best option. Not to mention they look a lot more appropriate considering I have seen other models of my same wagon with the four light set up and they look unbelievably slick. Because of the universal compatibility of the body styles in this line of vehicles making the swap is relatively easy, however I need some advice on the wiring harness for the lights in terms of whether I would have to rip out and replace the entire wiring setup and replace it with one that was designed to accommodate the four lights, or if there is a half-harness system of sorts that disconnects at a certain point from the rest of the system for this very purpose. Any advice on what sort of parts I might need as well as advice is greatly appreciated. Beaux. For Reference Before: After:
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Greetings all - My son's 9 Legacy died on the road, and initially thought it just was a jumped timing belt. Did the whole rigamorale of installing a new belt pulleys etc..however... After reassmbling everything, found that when the ignition\power was turned on we got these symptoms : check engine light on, no flashing purge control solenoid clicking a\c sub fan relay clicking blower fan relay clicking fuel pump cycling on\off rapidly radiator fan cycling on\off The alternator, starter & battery have all been tested and came back good. Checked and double checked the grounds & battery connections. Replaced the main relay, swapped out the ECU with a known good one, and inspected the fuse box. Replaced the voltage ballast. Nada. Any suggestions? I'm at a complete loss here..... -
im sorry if this already exists elsewhere but i literally could not find anything about it including on the internet, if anything, it thinks im searching for a back up light switch, if one post already exists, please direct me to it. ive been wanting to do this project for quite some time now but i literally don't know where to start, i want my blinker to turn off and on instead of on and off, ive been running my car with the amber lights on for about 2 years now and using the corner parking light as my blinker, law seems fine with it so i want to step it up a notch, i want my amber lights to blink off and then come back on as i have it on with the virgin switch, and have my parking light on all the time once again like it should be. is there a kit where a small computer can do this online? the only thing i can think of is a double relay but that means that atleast one relay must be on all the time and ill end up with a dead battery anyways, if that idea even works. any help is greatly appreciated!!! thank you.
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Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam. -
I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded -
I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback. 2.5L NA 5MT about 163xxxKM on it. I bought this for 500$ as my winter beater because the lady friend and myself just bought a house, so I sold my Jdm subby for some of the down payment for the new place. The previous owner was a 16 year old that decided he was going to try and be an electrician. Now its my job to undo his awesomeness! (car mechanically is fantastic. Cv's, tyrods, rotors, pads, tires, timing belt (new clutch) trans linkage etc are all in good condition. The couple issues that I'm dealing with are as follows. 1 - All of the Driving lights (when the steering column is switched to any of the 3 options) do Not turn on. I've repeatedly switched them on and off to see if they just got stuck. I'm curious if a relay could be the cause here or is there a way to test the switch its self. (headlights, signal lights, brake lights all work) 2 - The windshield wiper *washer fluid* for both the rear window and the from window have been switched. ex: In order to put washer fluid on my front window, I have to use the rear window washer fluid toggle and vica versa. Is there a switch that was installed backwards or should I open up the steering column and switch those 2 actuator wires? (if thats the case does anyone have a diagram for which colors they are?) 3 - Dash lights wouldn't come on. Found out after opening up the dash that they didn't reconnect the illumination wire when they reinstalled the stock stereo system. I wired this one to *ignition on* for ease of purpose. 4 - Speedo will be registering the proper km/h and then either bounce around OR drop dead completely and the time before coming back on is between 5 seconds and 30 minutes. (going to check the speedo sensor that bolts to the transmission to see if its loose. 5 - Suspension was lowered and very gently rubs tires on occasion. Am I able to install a 99 Forester strut and spring? give it some lift while also firming up the suspension a little? Does anyone have any for sale? 6 - the window switches on the drivers door. They all work, but the plastic toggle cover for the "Auto" drivers switch fell off. I was wondering if anyone had a spare or knew where I could order one? I've spent a couple hours searching for this and the only thing I could find was 90$ + shipping for the whole window switch assembly. 7 - Tumblers in both driver and passengers door are rather loose by my standard. Sometimes takes some wiggling. 8 - Tumbler in the steering column binds when turning the ignition off and you need to give it some wiggling *For both 7 and 8, are these standard tumblers? Grab them from a locksmith, rekeyed for your car, pop in and good to go? Or are these specialty items like i was told by a subaru guy (but not a professional) I'm very sorry if this is posted in the wrong spot! Usually I give advice on a forum, rarely have I needed to ask for help. I thank everyone in advanced for any advice given! Have a great new year all =) Frosty from Canada. -
My 88' XT6 has these problems; - battery shows good voltage with tester, but dash shows lower voltage, I cleaned all contacts. - alternator gets really hot fast. - belt squeals every time when starting, the belt tensioner is stripped, where can I get a new one? - fan relays are all messed up, I have to put a fuse in the relay socket to jump the fan to run and pull the fuse out when I park. - air vents will not switch. - Tachometer sometimes is way off too high. - cybrid steering is shitty at low rpm, could that be the brushes in the motor, or low current from the alternator, belt also squeals when taking slow tight turns sometimes. any gurus with advice out there? I'm in the PNW anyone local? -
Hello all! I have owned my '92 subaru loyale for 3-4 years now and it has always ran strong. It has recently been asking (kindly) for some repairs, and I have been trying to decide if I should just sell it and get a new car, or put money into it and have it run for another 100k. I just recently decided to go for the repairs option, and suddenly it died... completely. I came here hoping to get some advice on what is wrong with it. Here is the scenario: Went to work like I do every morning, worked all day, and when I went to go home it wouldn't start. It cranks over fine, but acts as though it has no ignition at all (not even a sputter). I checked everything: It has 47lbs of fuel pressure, there are no CEL codes, the distributor was a little worn, but replacing the cap and rotor did not help. When I first check it had spark at the plugs, and gas, but no running. I had to get a ride home that night, I went back the next morning and checked the fuses. After I checked the fuses I thought I would give it another shot. To my surprise it actually started! I left it running, and shortly after it warmed it it died (in a hurry... again, not sputter, just dead). Ever since it died the second time I haven't been able to get it to sputter at all. There is a spark from the coil (though I must admit it seems slightly erratic), and the coils resistance reads right at around 5ohms. Bottom line: * Has gas * Spark (ish? as far as I can tell) * Distributor rotor is turning, so at least ONE of the timing belts isn't broken (not sure how to verify the other isn't broken) * No check engine light * Before when it ran, and when it ran for a little while it purrs like a kitten... no sputter, no funny sounds. Any ideas? In theory '92 is supposed to have fuel injectors, but I can't find them (the fuel line goes to what appears to be a carburetor). Also, the distributor IS actually a good old fashioned distributor (not an Ignition Module). Thank you!
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Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated. -
Hi there, My 1990 Loyale won't start, and it appears to be due to an electrical problem. Symptoms: Weak power to accessories when ignition is in "accessory" mode. Weaker power, and sometimes no power, when ignition is in "on" mode. Car does not start, and accessories lose power completely when ignition is in "start" mode. Testing: So far, I have done the following: checked battery voltage, checked battery connections, checked fuses, checked fusible links, tested six relays for switching and continuity (4 above the fuse box and 2 above the ECM), tested ignition switch for appropriate continuity at the different key positions, partially tested steering column switches for continuity (the diagram in the Haynes manual confuses me; nevertheless, I disconnected the steering column switches and the problem remains.) I have not noticed loose grounds or frayed wires, but perhaps I have missed some. There are a couple of interesting items to note. First, when I activate the switch for the hazard flashers, the lights do not operate and a buzzing sounds. I have disconnected the power to the flashers module, and this of course silences the buzzing sound, but the original electrical issue remains. Second, occasionally when I turn on the parking lights via the steering column switch, the needle on the tachometer jumps - this is all without the engine running! It's a mystery to me - hopefully someone out there can point me in the right direction. Thank you! Jason -
So the title pretty much says it all, can't get my brat's interior lighting to work besides the dome. Would very much like to have that, what are the main wires for that? Also, my heating doesn't work, but I don't have my ac compressor connected, don't know if that's the problem or not. Anything helps Thanks -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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Hi all, I'm new and have a question about my 91 legacy 2wd automatic It runs great starts fine, But when I try to put it in reverse it won't. Not w/o a lot of patience. The thumb trigger won't push in but sounds like a switch is closing. After 20 or so times it finally works. Once in gear no problem r-d-123. Seems more finicky over 4 days. Is there a switch that allows it to be put in rev? If so what's it called? The clicking seems to come from the steer column. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers -
my 1997 Legacy L Wagon has a new issue. Intermittently, the dashboard and instrument panel backlighting will not come on when i turn the headlamps on. when i got this car about two months ago, the lighting for the climate control didnt work, and i figure that is just the bulbs behind the panel. but now the instruments and the radio lighting will fail to come on when the exterior lights are turned on. however, a solid strike to the dash seems to make them come on. anyone have any ideas?is it worth chasing this electrical gremlin, or just let it be? -
So i recently bought an 87 subi wagon, it had intermittent spaz sessions where it would lurch from low rpm to high. it happened under load most. I think tracked it down to the FI system, most likely electrical... i thought i fixed it with a new rotor and cap as it ran well for about a mile... when it completely stopped getting fuel. My fuel pump is fine. but I tested the FI itself and it its impedance is out of spec. I'm not sure if that can cause it to fail to inject fuel or not, but currently my next move is to get a pick and pull fuel injector that passes the ohms spec from the book. ive got all the pieces of the puzzle except fuel to get her started again. Any of you guys think that the spaz sessions, and the not starting is the same issue? Is there anything i haven't thought of that could be causing this issue? If so which systems would be good to check? Thanks in advance. -
Just picked up a 1990 legazy auto for cheap. only got it cheap because a pack rat ate the engine harness up. so i got a new harness from a junk yard. replaced it and turns out it has been parked the past 4 years was im pretty sure the ignition control module went out. only cylinders 1 and 2 firing. not 3 and 4. well did research on here and check the continutiy between the coils and control module. good. changed coils. no change. so going to get a new on of those. but to be sure that it's not a ground issue i need help locating where this one ground goes. on the passenger side under the abs unit there are 2 grounds. one from the headlight harness that goes to body and the other one i can not find any place that it would hook up. can some on please point me in the right direction or picture. i got the manual with the ground locations but its so vauge it just doesn't help. thanks
