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Showing results for tags 'Electrical'.
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I have a '96 Legacy L wagon. Lately, we've noticed that all the lights (headlights, dash lights) briefly dim and brighten. There it no pattern, just a brief dip in brightness, usually once every few seconds. I figured likely alternator or voltage regulator, less likely the diode. I took it to the shop and they said the voltage was fine, alternator and diode seemed fine, and it was going to require disconnecting things till they found the problem. I didn't like that idea much and needed the car back for the next snowstorm. All the lights dimming said to me it had to be an overall voltage drop and, sure enough, my VOM showed voltage dipped to about 12.9V from ~14.2 whenever the lights dimmed. With an OBD2 reader, I can see the voltage briefly spike downward. It never goes above about 14.5V, making me think the regulator is ok. Revving the engine makes no difference. However, I found that with enough electrical load (e.g., the headlights on AND the fan on full speed (but not half speed) or the rear defogger also on and the fan at half speed, the spikes disappear and the voltage sits steady around 13.5V. Grounding and connections between the alternator and battery are fine. Anyone run into this? I was ready to buy an alternator, figuring maybe the brushes were going bad, but the discovery that enough load stopped the spikes made me wonder if it was the regulator, after all. (And can someone tell me where the stupid regulator is located? Google isn't helping and it does not seem it is in the alternator like in many cars - in fact, it costs much more than a rebuilt alternator.) Many thanks. -
I need some help with an odd electrical issue. (I could not find any existing threads on this, but please point me toward them if they exist!) This is a 1993 Legacy L Wagon with 226k. About a year ago, during the cold Chicago winter, I started noticing the following behavior. At random times, the entire electrical system in the car experiences what seems to be a pulsating voltage change, like a sine wave, at around 80-120 Hz. All the lights pulsate bright-dim bright-dim in unison, and I can hear the cabin fan spin faster/slower in unsion with the lights. Sometimes, the Brake warning light on the instrument cluster will flash on and off in unison as well. I know that the Brake light coming on is a failure mode for the alternator. The alternator is quite new and I had it and the rest of the charging system checked last year - it's all fine. I replaced the battery (needed it anyway) and also the plugs and wires (was having a starting problem). No change. Over the summer, I did not notice this issue. This week, as the cold sets in again (30-50 F), I see the same issue. The only suggestion I've heard is to check the grounds, but since the issue seems related to cold weather, I'm not sure that is the issue. I will have them checked at next service. Any ideas on this? Thanks! -
Looking for a schematic for 2008 Outback dashboard. Specifically looking for 'Oil Sensor' and 'Oil Light' wiring. Thanks in advance, MTG -
Oh, this is a fun one. ('87 GL Wagon) Was on a lunch break at work last week. Decided to hose the dust off the car. Finished up, shut the hose off, looped it on the loopy. Turned around and my tail lights were on. Baffled, I unlocked and opened the driver-side door, peered inside as if I was going to locate the problem, paused, realized... "****!" Long story short, it's been a week and it hasn't rained. If whatever got wet was going to dry out, it would've by now. (The fuse box inside the cabin is dry by the way) I found the fuse within the circuit, so I've been pulling it everytime I park. Now, there is a plethora of custom electrical work on this rig. Meaning, I'm asking for help regarding what it could be though things could be different. Fuse 4 seems to be the guy that stops the non-sense. What, I say what would cause the rear tail lights, as well as the front indicators to stay on, with the car off, keys outta the ignition? Thank you, thank you all in advance. -BR. -
Hello, I'm working on a swap project (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/) and am looking for the pinout for the '89 GL transmission. I've been looking everywhere and for some reason can't track these down - it's really just two plugs... If anyone can point me to one or send me one you'd make my life a bit easier.
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New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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Hello, Is this a common problem with a common fix? Does anyone know the reason for this? The 15 amp fuse that keeps blowing out is for ECC, Room, Stop. Stop is the brakes, Room is the interior, so what is ECC? I thought to look at the brake pedal switch, but dont know where it is. -
I replaced the cabin filter yesterday and now the front running lights and taillights don't turn off. I wrnt out last night and saw them on, couldn't get them off so I disconnected the battery. Help read about the parking button on the steering column... switched it off... problem solved. -
My girlfriend swears that the switches on the steering column (the ones that control the lights and washers) used to light up. The mechanic says that the switches are not back-lit and he can not find wiring for them in the schematics. Please if you own a 2004 forester x please share with me if the switches are back-lit on your vehicle. -
Cranks fine but no start. Checked all the hoses and everything is connected. Assuming electrical issue since the pre-start warning lights are on all the time even without the key in. I know it's something simple but I'm having a brain fart as to why it won't turn over. -
So my Brat has always had pretty weak headlights, but lately they have been downright unreliable. My car runs completely fine, but when I go to turn the lights on at night, my headlights flicker off. When they turn off, I also hear a strange electrical sound (sounds like a servo or something like that). It doesn't happen every single time that I try to run my headlights, but pretty close. I don't think it's the battery, and I already took my alternator out and had it tested, but it passed the test just fine at O'Reilly's. Could it only be bad wiring that is doing this, or does anybody have any other ideas of what the problem might be? p.s. The right headlight shines weaker than the left. I don't know if that is significant or not.
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So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
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This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon. Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it. It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt. I can't find a constant 12 any where. Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d
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98 Legacy Outback Limited, manual trans. I thought my battery was dead this morning when I attempted to start it but it must be a different issue as after charging the battery and no change. I actually switched a battery from the other car to see if there was a difference. Chime is strong and loud when door is open with key left in ignition. However, no dash or idiot lights come on when ignition is turned to on position and the interior lights don't work. The only electric item that I can witness is hearing the chime. Is there a fuse or relay somewhere that could be causing this?
