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Showing results for tags 'Exhaust'.
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Hey everyone, I just bought my first subaru a few weeks ago. Its a 99 legacy sedan L sedan. So far I like the car, I think I lucked out getting a 99 since its the base model but I still have the sunroof/spoiler/alloy wheels combo. Its a 5 speed standard too which is fun since I spent the winter in an automatic jeep cherokee. I paid $800 for the car which has 155,000 miles on it. When I bought the car the man who owned it told me the check engine light was on for a front 02 sensor. When I had the codes checked it turned out it had codes for front 02 as well as a knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and it seems to be running more smoothly already. My main question and motivation for posting this thread is this: When I jacked the car up to change the oxygen sensor, the source of my exhaust leak became obvious. I have a fairly significant leak coming from where the header meets the manifold. It looks like the flange is pretty well rusted out. Is it possible that this leak before the 02 sensor could be causing the code? I was thinking of replacing the sensor to see if it would clear the light, but I feel like that might be a waste of time since the leak might be the reason for the code. I was thinking of ordering a replacement header, which runs about 140 bucks from advance auto in town, but they'd have to order it anyway so I'm looking around a bit for better prices. Should I replace the header & o2? or just one or the other? -
Picture attached. I need to know if the thing that's pointed to comes off, and where I can get one if it does. My current exhaust is welded to it. Pic isn't mine
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im offering single port unequal length headers for EJ 2.2 motors. in both stainless and aluminized steel. tig welded with mandrel bends. everything is made in house, flanges are water jet cut, it will bolt to factory subaru exhaust. i am located in st helens oregon 97051 store pick ups are welcome to order you may call 503 750 nine eight 4 two or email sube4x4@gmail.com my current website is www.infernofab.com the current prices are Stainless Steel: 260.00 + 40.00 for shipping. aluminized are 200.00 + 40.00 for shipping pricing may change afer i get my webstore online. i will be offering flanges mandrel bends and collectors as well as straight tube.
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I'd like to upgrade the exhaust. But all I can seem to find is set ups for GT wagons. Does anyone have any expierience with this? Will it work? ID also llike to upgrade the suspension. I've been looking at coilovers, I don't want to drop a whole ton on something like Tien's. Any suggestions? -
Buying a 2013 wrx sedan with 4,000 miles on it. I can spend $3000-4000 on mods. I was thinking an intake and full exhaust. What do yall think? If I were to do more mods after that what would you do? I'll post a pic of the car. Oh and rim color ideas? -
I'm sure its somewhere, but I can't really find anything on the effects of having no backpressure on an ea82 turbo engine My front cat on my 87 GL Turbo recently fell off, so I put a small section of pipe on it to keep exhaust off the CV axle. It seems to be running smoother and a little more powerful, but I keep thinking it could damage something internally driving it like that. Anyone have first hand experience with this?? Haha
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I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point. -
I had my muffler on the bench, I was renewing the short piece of pipe I use to connect the muffler to the pipe from the resonator (ever since the muffler/pipe flanges disintegrated). The muffler was upside down on my tool cart and water started coming out of the bypass valve cover. The cover has been coming off for years and I have been ignoring it, but if water can come out an exhaust leak can't be far behind. I have been fully confident the valve has been stuck shut for years, if not since I bought the car. Recently I put softer springs from the ex pipe to the frame (pulling the exhaust against the converter donut since the bolt flanges disintegrated) to help the donut last longer, and when gunning it the pipe was forced back! A lot of back pressure. I didn't realize when you took the cover off it gives access to the shaft and spring, but you cannot remove the valve. Anyway the metal around where the cover bolts on was paper thin, so I just chiseled around the metal frame of the valve mechanism and then cut the metal frame with the die grander, and removed the entire valve. I cut a piece of 16ga mild steel to fit the over the opening and brazed it on (amazing how good a treadle shear can cut outside curves). Definitely revs up cleaner, starting at 4k or so. No longer sounds strained above 5k. No longer seems to creep from 5.5 k to redline. BTW I had driven over 20 miles in temps over 50 degrees, and the bypass part of the muffler had a good bit of water in it. Exhaust finds it way in there and the water condenses out, apparently even after everything is well warmed up. -
Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU -
I snapped off the threaded collar on the catalytic converter for the front oxygen sensor and am now trying to replace the whole catalytic converter from flange to flange. How do you get the top bolt off of the front flange between the cat and the header pipe? -
So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
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Hi guys, I'm new here so forgive me if I screw anything up. I'm looking at purchasing a TSUDO n1 Catback exhaust for my 2004 Subaru Impreza 2.0 GX. The site I'm looking at says that the exhaust is designed for 1998-2005 RS Imprezas. I'm wondering whether this exhaust would fit on my GX. Thanks. I've uploaded a pic of what I'm getting here: http://imgur.com/Zt87i3O Also, if it makes a difference, I'm in Australia and this exhaust is coming from the US... sorry I'm just currently in the learning process at the moment -
i just finished putting true dual glasspacks on my 78 brat, am i the only person to ever do this? ive searched and cant find anybody else that has! am i unique? am i insane?
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I have an exhaust problem with my 1984 GL wagon. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/weimadog/media/IMG_1068_zpsf20d217a.mp4.html The video explains the problem. I found it by connecting a shop vac to the exhaust pipe, and listening for the hiss. That's a lot more pleasant than getting under a car and dealing with a hot exhaust. One bold is rusted in place, the other one is still springy. What's the solution for this one?
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Hi guys, I'm about to replace my '99 impreza with a brand new one. One of my biggest pet peeves is rust. (Especially in new england). The first thing that I always see rusting is the exhaust, even after a few thousand miles. Does anybody know of a good paint to coat the exhaust with that will prevent any corrosion? Or are their any other methods of preventing exhaust rust? The main reason I've had to replace my old impreza is because of rust, which is why I'm really focused on eliminating it. I want to squeeze as much life as possible out of this new one that I'm about to get. As far as everything else on the car, I will be undercoating it with par-al-ketone and a couple of other chemicals that I use on our aircraft at work. If anybodies wondering, here are some of the other chemicals: corrosion x (get the aviation standard because it's better), mastinox, boeshield t-9, and cor-ban. -
My Soob, which I Purchased 3 months ago, it's exhaust is concerning me. It is a really clean car, I am in LOVE! I just want to prolong the life of her. I I do lite offoading, since it is also my commuter. This is the problem. It knocks loud when warming up, and when accelerating. When warm, the noise dies down, and is periodic. I pinpointed the noise when changing the oil, noticing it on the passenger side of the front muffler assembly exiting the motor. Remedies? Replacement? I am trying to avoid purchasing a catylic converter, but the only parts found online include it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks for reading! -
So awhile back I had a bolt that went in and kind of mangled the threads to the driver side head, so I have a exhaust leak in that area and it's a little annoying how would I go about fixing it?
