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Showing results for tags 'Forester'.
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Hi, im looking at a 2002 forester with a 2.5L flat 6 engine with a 5 speed and 60,000 miles but when i started it up at the used car dealership it ran really rough and almost sounded like a diesel for a bit also the whole car shook a bit when I was starting it and when i shut it down. Is this normal or is it a sign of something wrong with the engine? Thanks -
Hi All, I was referred here from the CarTalk forum to seek advice on my to-be-crippled 2007 Forester. I'm the third owner of the vehicle, and the used dealer that I bought it from did a number of services to it before I purchased it, including new head gaskets. Well, his have started to fail now, and the Subaru specialist in town here has quoted me $2k for parts&labor. One person on the CarTalk forum suggested that it may be cheaper at a dealer, so some feedback on this would be appreciated -- is this a fair quote? The other thing I'm thinking about is selling the car, as I've been getting the P0420 engine code on and off for the past year now, and don't want to buy a new cat converter. How much is a fair price if I were to sell this to a dealer, and if I'm selling it privately? The car has 131k miles, a new radiator, all belts/hoses in good shape. Thanks so much! Ryan -
Greetings, I recently bought a non running 2009 forester, I have a question on what motor to replace it with. I believe this is a California spec car. Can I use any donor motor or does it need to be from a California spec car? Thank you
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Hi all, thank you in advance for taking your time to read this. I just purchased 1998 Forester. Automatic. Miles unknown odometer shows 97k but it's not working. The speedometer and odometer is not working at all. It's giving me code P1507 and idles rough almost stalling. I've searched the forum and changed VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but speedo is still not working. I've jacked up the car, put it on jack stands (all 4 tires off the ground) so i can put the car in D and simulate driving. When i simulated driving without the VSS, where the VSS connects is not spinning at all. (see picture) Should this be spinning when car is driving so it can spin the VSS? If so am i screwed? what can i do to fix this?
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2003 Forester XS, 125,000 miles...for the last few weeks, it was wandering around its idle speed, difficult to start, finally threw the TPS code, so I swapped it out, and while I was there, changed the PCV, since I have no idea when it was last changed. Upon starting it up afterwards, I couldn't get the idle under 1200 rpm...adjusted TPS, adjusted bolts on throttle cable, no help. On test driving it, it would wind itself up to well over 3000 rpm before shifting, and it shifted very hard...on shifting 2-3, it took it almost to 4000 rpm, and again a hard shift. Now its displaying P0122, which is also a TPS code, and the TCM is flashing me 31 and 45 codes, for the TPS and the intake manifold pressure. I swear, I didn't touch anything...what the hell happened? -
Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock! -
G'day I have a 2002 Forester and today the driver's side window decided to remain in the down position (right side window; I'm in Australia). When i opened the window today the motor kept running after the window was down, and it wouldn't go back up again. When I try to use the switch to move the window it makes a whirring sound - like the motor is still operating but not grabbing anything. We've removed the interior door panel and tried to move the window by hand but it seems firmly in the down position. We've also tried using the window switch at the same time - again no luck. Over the last year the window has intermittently hesitated before operating when raising and lowering it. Possibly related? Does anyone have any recommendations for how to determine what has failed and how to fix it? Also, does anyone have a quick fix for how to get the window up again so I can drive it in the rain or park it somewhere unattended? Thanks! -
2001 Forester Took my wagon through a puddle, got er nice n stuck, managed to get myself out by rocking back and forth and some high revs. Drove up out of the puddle, and about 100 feet from the puddle she died mid shift. Couldn't get it to start up again, tried a couple roll starts and still nothing. When I got it home I tried to start some more, car was hydrolocked, pulled spark plugs, cleared the cylinders, put it all back together and tried to start again. Car turned over but didn't cough or sputter. Nothing. Took off the fuel line at the filter and noticed no pressure in lines, and the pump wasn't priming. Replaced the pump, new pump primed once on first try, did not prime again. Still no start. Pulled spark plugs and it appears that there isn't any spark, Any ideas?
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Hi guys, Upon deciding the stage 2 wasn't enough, I have decided to look at getting a bigger turbo and the supporting mods to go with it. Research hasn't lead me anywhere productive and I have run into the problem of knowing if a turbo will bolt on or fitment treatment is required. I originally leaned towards a blouch td05-18g but later found out it wont fit. Is there a list of turbos I can find anywhere that have power ratings and are known to fit this model forester? Thanks! -
So here's my problem. Bought a brand-new 2016 Forester and it's swell and all. Only it won't play my iPod through the stereo system. Have tried multiple iPods (rebooted, taken back to factory settings and reset), different USB cords, etc. What happens is the music plays fine for anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes, then the iPod shuts down and console stops recognizing the USB port. Took into the dealer and the service department said they were able to get their device, an iPhone, to play just fine.So they said the problem is mine and nothing can be done to fix. May not seem like a huge deal, BUT the only two things I really want out of a car is the ability to drive in the snow and listen to my music. (Which I don't store on iPhone.) Anyone else run into a similar problem, per chance? Any proposed solutions, or suggestions I can take back to the dealer? Thanks mzb PS-Fwiw, iPod plays just find using the auxiliary cord/setting, though the sound quality is greatly inferior -
Hi Starting this project thread to show my progress in making my Legacy -94/95 more suitable for the winter forest roads. This will be a long time project that starts with fixing the breaks. I hope I will be up and runing with this project later this week. /slugg -
Hey all, Just wondering what the possibilities are regarding swapping an 09 xt forester 2.5l turbo into say an older ( **** - 2008) forester, liberty, outback, wrx etc? any quid pro quos or pitfalls that would make it overly difficult?
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I got a little mod-happy yesterday. It started with pulling my sway bars and sort of snowballed from there. I made a mesh sport grill by cutting out the old silver parts on the stock grill, painting it black and cutting some honeycomb expandable steel I got from the metal supply place. I also grabbed some aluminum to make a lightweight skid plate for the bottom. It isn't gonna support the weight of the car or anything, but it'll definitely protect against rocks and stumps in the trail. Tomorrow I'm going to the junk yard and pulling a grill guard off a Rav4 to see if I can make it fit on the foz. I'll let you guys know how it goes! Before After The front attaches to the stock threaded holes form the plastic splash guards. Bent it to wrap up the front and tuck it under the towing receivers. Attached the back under the existing subframe plate
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It is a 2000 "Forester S" automatic with 270K miles. I replace the gasket on the water pump yesterday. After that, I put all the parts that needed to be removed back together to get the engine like it was before this project. At that point the engine would not start. The engine will turn over, so the battery is working. I pulled off the fuel hose off the injection tube and turn the key to the start position... At that point, fuel was pushed out, so it seems that the fuel pump is working and the engine is getting fuel. I checked all the fuses and none of them are broken and all work. I also charged the battery to insure it was working... it was working and I tried to start it by jumping the battery during the starting try... the engine turned over like normal but it still didn't start. Am I missing something? What could I try to solve the issue? Thanks -
Hi, Does anyone know who makes the head unit for my 2015 Forester 2.5i Premium? I've seen Harmon Kardon and Clarion mentioned. Thanks, Greg -
So today I replaced balljoints in my 2000 forester. The old ones were a pita to get out but with a little heat and some motivation from a 3# sledge they gave in and came out. I was thinking everything was good...cleaned up my mess and started the car to test it out. As soon as i shifted from park to reverse there is a loud humming/grinding noise sounds like its coming from where the axles meet the differential. I did have to do some beating, pushing, pulling and a lot of cussing to not only get the old joints off but I also had a hard time getting the stud part of the bj back into the hole on the a arm. It makes the noise going into any gear and I also noticed the "AT oil temp" is lit up on the dash. Before I saw the light my first thought was while I was in there messing with it maybe i pulled the axle out a little ways and now the splines arent matching up? I didnt think I was putting that much pressure on it plus i never even messed with the pin holding the axle on but Idk. After seeing the at temp light now Im lost because prior to this Ive never seen that light or had and kind of sound or issue. The light came on within 30 sec of the car being started so idk hot it would get hot that quick but idk. Its dark here now so tomorrow my day is going to consist of taking it back apart and trying to diagnose the problem. I did some searching and didnt really come up with anything so I figured Id ask around here and hopefully get a few opinions and possibly a starting point. It just seemed strange to me that I didnt have any problem until I did the ball joints. which shouldnt have affected anything but the...ball joints?? I also forgot to mention that when I try to shift back into park theres a grinding noise like trying to shift a manual without the clutch and it only stops when i turn the key off but when you start the car the noise isnt there until you try to shift out of park. This ******* thing has me baffled! Anyways like always any info or help is greatly appreciated!! -
I drive a 1998 Forester I've had it throw codes quite a few times now. First time, a month ago, there was a lot of lurching, it was repeated misfires. Got sparkplugs changed (went with NGKs) and new plug wires as well. Ran nicely after. I had it diagnosed at an autozone, so while I think it was 3 and 4 misfiring, I didn't get a look at the exact diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure. Second time, used my OBD II reader, 3 & 4 misfires. Had them pretty consistently, swapped the coil pack. They seemed to stop. The engine threw the same cylinder 3 and 4 misfire codes on the way home today. I've heard from friends that injectors seem unlikely since the misfires wouldn't be this random if that were the issue. Not all that sure where to go next. MAP sensor or vacuum leak? Possibly irrelevant facts: 1. Swapped my clockspring last night. Successful. Airbag light is off and horn and cruise work again. 2. Driving (or trying to drive) from Ogden, Utah to Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 3 days. Joy. -
Hi - first time post on here, but have been experiencing a frustrating problem with a 2014 Forester 2.5i. I had some front end damage about six months ago. Shortly after, I began hearing a squeak whenever I accelerate (particularly when going over bumps). The body shop said not to worry, but I'd like to resolve. Any ideas about the cause and a resolution? Thanks! -
While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
Hello and thank you in advance for all of your help and suggestions. I've bought an old sf5 that's been swapped and had a host of problems that i've been trying to sort out on my own. The car hasn't had a good life and it shows. 2 years ago its been swapped with a gc8 wrx motor mated to a type ra 4.44 close ratio box and differential. It works for the most part but it's never had a working speedo. Lots of other things work. It's got rpms, temp, fuel, outside temp. It has no check engine light and the obd port has no power to it. My issue is that it gets speed cut. The gear box has the three wire speed sensor, I've got a manual forester gauge cluster and manual forester 4W 3 plug ecu. I need help fixing the speedcut. i would like to wire the speed sensor directly to where the signal needs to go. I've tried sending the speed sensor signal to the ecu and it has no effect. also tried a different ecu because i had that option and it didn't work either. I've tested the speed sensor output and the sensor works well, the issue is the correct wiring of the speed signal to supposedly the gauge cluster. In trinidad we get international versions of japanese cars as well as roll on roll off jdm versions. I believe this car is an international version that was a automatic when stock.
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Hello everyone, I am new to the community and about to take my first step into the Subaru world. Please keep in mind that I have little car experience and almost no mechanical savvy, and that we are in need of a car and have a pretty fixed income (grad students). I am seeking advice about purchasing the following used Subi with the following specs: 2003 Forester XS Wagon. 170k on the body, but with a 40k engine in it (a 2L engine as opposed to the XS's 2.5 - avoids piston slap problems, increases gas mileage a bit?) * No accidents * Not a salvage title * 3 month/3,000 mile warranty * The engine was replaced because the previous owner ran it out of oil * Leather, sunroof, heated seats, 6-disc changer * Interior/Leather is in great shape The dealer did the following: * New tires (80%+) * Replaced front and back pads and rotors * Replaced timing belt kit (water pump, etc.) * New doors and bumper (the previous owner had spray painted the old ones for some reason) * Willing to replace windshield (a small chip) * Willing to fix leaking right rear strut (after our mechanic discovered it) They are asking $6500 to have all this work done and the car is ours. We know that a new(er) engine does not mean a newer car, but I understand that it can add up to $800-1000 to a price at a dealer. Given all the other work they have done and are willing to do, what are your thoughts on this price and purchase? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you. -
Seat Covers for Subaru forester 2008-2013
Michael Johnson posted a topic in Products for your Subaru
It is simple to make the interior of the car more comfortable and elegant - you have to choose covers for SUBARU FORESTER (XT TOURING, PREMIUM, LIMITED) 2008-2013 from the MW Brothers company. Precise fitting of the products and European materials make our products the best in the market of model car seat covers. Price; 219$ (10% discount for clubmates). Contact us: Mail: mw.brothers.usa@gmail.com Phone: (424) 666-1165 Office: 9908 San Fernando Road Pacoima, LA ,CA 91331,USA Web page: mw-brothers.com Any question you can ask here -
Hello, We're looking at a 2002 Forester with a rebuilt engine. The shop deals exclusively in foreign vehicles, they have a great reputation around town, and they deal exclusively in foreign cars. They also offer a three-month, 3,000 mile warranty. They are currently asking $6,200. New tires, sunroof, leather seats, new front breaks, and the body is in beautiful shape (the "best they've seen for a 2002") + the rebuilt engine. The price is high, no doubt, but we're not sure how much we should reasonably be paying given the condition of the body (pretty much perfect) and the rebuilt engine. Kelley Blue Book has it listed for $4030 at good condition "fair purchase price," $4614 for a "perfect condition" vehicle, and with a suggested ticket price of $5110. A few questions: 1. how much should we reasonably be paying given all of the above (the condition, the rebuild, etc.)? 2. what questions should we ask about the rebuilt engine? (they've done the belts and the head gasket) 3. is the high-mileage worth the purchase given that they've rebuilt the engine? They think it still has 100k in it. 4. what else might we be wary of for a Forester with this mileage on it (rebuild aside)? Any advice would be much appreciated. We're in Iowa and are poor graduate students. We're new to the Subaru world but are excited to purchase our first given the culture. We are also mostly naive in the way of cars, regrettably. Thanks. --Matthew
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Thought I'd share my Forester with you all. I know it's new-gen, but it is 12 years old with 207,000km so it's a long way from mint, the photos make it look waaay better than it is. Basically, it's a 2002 SG Forester 2.5X. NZDM, so it has the 1.19:1 D/R 5-speed, a vLSD rear, rear discs, and the EJ251, not the EJ202 like JDM Foresters. Plans are to just build it up a bit, get a set of cheap snow tyres off a Jap import for 4x4ing and just drive it. Snow tyres are cheap here as we don't ever get enough snow to really need them, my photos say otherwise, but they are all taken above 600m (1200ft) and the amount of snow is low anyway. The tyres come in on Jap imports from the mountains over there. My main build thread is over on offroadsubarus.com at http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5568 I bought the car early June, and immediately started modifying it - nothing too obvious as the laws are fairly strict here in NZ, but just a few things that would give it a unique look. Started off with a skidplate from my old Leone - it died a natural death from multiple causes, had terminal rust in the firewall and A-pillars, as well as surface rust on the roof and bonnet and too many rusty stone-chips to count - basically needed a full respray. The engine was rattly, ticked, leaked and burnt oil and coolant and the 3AT was on its way out (nasty rattle and erratic shifting), and the suspension was shot... If I had a spare 5 grand and a lot of time I'd have restored it but yeah, I'm way too busy with studies and that. So a Forester it was, as the L had failed its last warrant and I needed a car for the winter's skiing. The manual in the Foz was a bonus, I was sick of driving auto. Here's one of the Leone: The other attraction with the Foz was the dual-range full-time AWD and the better ground-clearance, without the need for a lift kit (which requires an engineer's certification in NZ). While the reduction isn't amazing at 1.19:1, it's a lot better than nothing, and it works well from the offroading I've done so far. Bashplate: Stickers: Diff breather: DRLs: I also screwed the bottom corners of the number plate in to prevent it getting ripped off when fording rivers, I've seen it happen before. Intake: I did this to make water ingestion less likely when fording, as the stock airbox wasn't the best design. I've since added another PVC elbow to replace the first box too, sealed the joints with silicone. Changed the plugs, they were toast, as well as the gearbox/diff fluids. I also touched up my stone-chips to prevent a repeat of my previous car. To give you an idea of how bad rust can get in the Dunedin climate, here's an old MY wagon from up the Peninsula, just before the Karetai Rd. turnoff: There's pretty much nothing left below the doors. Previous owner bent a couple of the pinch welds on the sills. A shot of it the day I got it, prior to new tyres (slightly oversize at 215/65R16 vs 215/60 stock), RallyArmor mudflaps and removal of the little flaps before the front wheels. A few shots of it in various scenery: A bit of flexing. I could have flexed more, but I had to reverse out, I was by myself down a long dirt track and I didn't want to get stuck due to diagonal spin. Anyway, that's probably enough pic dumping for one day.
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Hello good day... i have a 2000 forester with original transmission. The problem i got is that my power light flashes non stop and the transmission in is field safe mode where it shift from 1st to 3rd. i had all the solenoids checked out and my TCU refuses to connect to the OBD11 ... my transmission also makes a rattling noise which increses with RPM. any help would be greatfull
