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Vehicles

  1. Hello again- So I'm looking on Craig's List at a 1985 GL that has a 1996 Ej22 engine swap - and no AC. Is it at all possible to add AC to this car, and if so, what kind of cost and contortions am I looking at? Thanks!
  2. Long time reader first time poster! I've begun a restoration project on a Subaru 1974 GL Coupe that has a 1600 engine, and wanted to post it here. And here's after I hosed it off a bit. Engine needs a bit of cleaning, and the previous owner put a Weber carburetor on it, but for some odd reason completely disassembled the choke system, so I need to fix that. Interior is pretty fantastic in my opinion, electrical is solid and there's only damage on the driver seat. I've been looking online and this car is extremely hard to find parts for, if anyone has any tips they'd be much appreciated! Just ordered new struts, rotors, brake calipers, brake pads and rear drum shoes, a back driver's side tail-light(had a small break in the original one, and the only other break is the front-left blinker). It sat for years, but a new battery and key-turn and the engine fired right up, sounds really great and has a small oil leak on the crankshaft oil seal. The muffler has about 4 massive holes through it, and will need to be replaced. There's a small flip-switch to the left of the headlight pull switch, and following the wire I found that it's cut and ends up stuck near the passenger glove box, is this aftermarket or should I investigate more? I'll be posting updates as I work on this car, my deadline is about two weeks from now, so I'll be posting regularly! The radiator has a leak at the base, can I swap it out for an 80s gen radiator, or does anyone have any parts connections?
  3. Was looking for skidplate designs to "borrow" and found these, and hadn't seen anyone mention them. http://get-primitive.com/wheels-rally-race-street/466-team-dyn-15x7-5x100-matte-blk.html Expensive, but easier than drilling or finding pugs. Note: I'm not affiliated with them in any way.
  4. Both codes 34 and 35 are flashing on the LED Under the steering column. Most of what I find online supports the same information that it is the two components or systems I have listed in the title. I am capable of changing things on vehicles, and usually there is a wealth of information, but for some reason not mine. Is there a clear demonstration video or a list of how to diagnose why there may be a malfunction in the solenoid/ system? I would hope I can change the part myself, provided access is not too complicated. Also How can I tell if the air charge sensor is malfunctioning versus the rest of the circuit? I am having a difficult time clearly identifying these components under the hood. the more detail the better. I am hoping to find a manual specific to this vehicle without the ambiguities that a manual covering different models might have.
  5. Hey there, I recently ordered some replacement CV axles for both the front driver and passenger sides. I measured the old ones and since they were so beat up I wasn't super accurate with my measurements. I purchased new Surtrack axles online, the number of splines matched up and the length seemed right. However when I got them at my house I compared them to the old ones and they were apx. 2" longer, I thought I would try them anyways and though maybe they will compress more with some weight and and pressure. I got one in and it is definitely to long. I can get it into the steering knuckle and through the bearing all the way and put a axle nut on it all the way and get the other end on as well. The issue is now my steering knuckle is being pushed too far out from the control arm and ball joint. Does anyone have experience buying new axles for this model 1985 GL Hatchback 4spd Manual HI/LOW 4x4 1.8 OHV? Every store online that their axle will fit and has the correct splines but they are all 27 13/32 - 27 3/8 and I believe I need something closer to 25 3/8 - 26 3/8. If anyones has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this Subie out on the Minnesota streets and lakes before the weather gets to warm! Thank you.
  6. Just installed a Weber 32/36 DEGV this weekend. I wasn't sure what to do with the vacuum port on the EGR, so I left it alone. Drove 300 miles home just fine and super smooth. Got in touch with Weber and they said to remove the screw-type plug from the front left port on the Weber, so I did. Hooked a vacuum line from that port directly to the Weber last night. This morning on the way to work, the car would hesitate and/or stumble, no noise, just bog down a bit on the acceleration and randomly pick back up. Ran fine yesterday, so I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR. Now it runs super smooth again. Forgot to add, EGR was recently cleaned, and the intake EGR ports were cleaned during the Weber install. EGR seems to operate properly, opening and closing as I rev the throttle up and down. So, I've read that keeping the EGR is ideal, but not necessary. Am I missing something on the install, I thought it should be direct from Weber to EGR? Any explanation would be appreciated. Thx all. EA81 GL 2dr Hatch
  7. Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
  8. Hello I am a newbie that loves working on his new 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. I am wondering if any of you can tell me how hard it is or if there are any special tricks to changing a water pump. The Mechanic I took it to said it was leaking in multiple places and was wanted 450 to change it. Considering I bought it for $500 I figure I should do it myself. If you have any info on changing the pump, or any manuals for the 85 GL it would be hugely appreciated. Thank you, Dewey
  9. Hi again friends. I recently had my clutch changed and immediately after, I had an issue where I would put the car in 1st or reverse, try to release the clutch and it couldn't move, making the engine bog down as if the emergency brake was on or the gears were somehow bound up. However, once I press and release the clutch, the car would take off as usual. Now it continues to bind up occasionally like that (maybe once per day) but an extra press and release of the clutch frees things up. It feels like maybe 4wd becomes partially engaged (just enough to bind - if that's even possible); however I don't understand why it would start immediately after the clutch was changed and why a press of the clutch would release it. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks in advance. JW 86 gl 1.8 5sp dual range 4wd
  10. 1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
  11. Hello I recently bought a 1985 GL Wagon 1.8 liter 5 speed. It has 120k miles on it. I know it has some good life left in it. The previous owner didn't keep it up very well. I don't have the service manual for this car. I decided to change the transmission fluid and the oil and filter, along with the starter distributer cap, plugs and wires. The guy at the auto parts store looked up the amount of fluids needed for the oil and transmission fluid. He stated that the transmission needed 7 quarts and the engine needed four quarts. After finishing all other projects. And filling the fluids up,... It definitely seems to be way too much in fluid amounts with the oil and tranny fluid. If anyone can give me the recommended amounts for tranny fluid and oil that would be great. The oil is easy I guess, just fill it up till it's right on the dipstick. By the way the tranny fluid looked really bad as well as the oil. Thank you, Chris
  12. When I start my car, I get some white smoke for about the first 5 minutes it runs. I notice moisture from the tail pipe when it smokes. I knew the answer to this one once before. Gasket problem? No overheating. Oil pressure sits under 45 when warmed up.
  13. Im about to head outside to replace my front passenger wheel bearing FWD. I haven't done one in years and it was on an Isuzu rodeo. Can someone give me a quick rundown on the process before I jack my car up? Much Appreciated!
  14. After FINALLY getting my cv axle out of the front passenger hub to replace the bearings, the inner bearing came out with the axle! 'Tis stuck pretty good on there and I need some tips on how I can get it of without ruining a good axle. 87 FWD GL 3door
  15. I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.
  16. Heater switch, er HVAC was wonky when I bought my 87 gl. It required constant pressure to work the heater. I used duck tape for a while until it completely failed me. Upon pulling the HVAC line out, some of its "bearings" were loose because parts of it were melted. I pulled one from another car that appeared fine and swapped it. I also replaced the resistor and heater blower motor with brand new ones. AND GUESS WHAT?! It still acts weird, needing pressure or to be pressed just right to work when you let go. Granted all fan settings work now instead of only the 4th one with the original melted pos. Please, someone tell me what I am missing here.
  17. im tring to find out if any other year distribitors will work fo my 84 gl wagon 4wd im sure the pick up is bad it runs for like 7 mins till it gets hot then quits. after that i have no spark. any help would be great
  18. What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
  19. How hard would it be to swap the hubs from a 91 legacy onto a 88 gl? Any input would be greatly appreciated. If this is or already had been discussed somewhere can someone please put a link in this thread.
  20. There has been a very obnoxious whining/whistling coming from my engine. I've checked all the vacuum lines, the air filter and in the process replaced both of my belts. This sound appears to be coming from one of my belts that gets louder upon acceleration. It sounds like the alternator belt, but I'm obviously lost on this one. Loosening/ tightening were attempted as well, but no dice. I've been ignoring my car sounding like a UFO for a few months now and it hasn't gotten any worse...or less annoying. Would this issue have anything to do with a loss in power when accelerating? (that could be a completely different issue.) 87 gl 3-door 5speed
  21. I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful.
  22. I have a 1982 Subaru gl and I am just wondering what years are compatible for basically the whole driver side. Bumper, Fender, both doors and rear quarter panel. thanks for the help gents.
  23. The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
  24. Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
  25. So a friend sent me the link to a CL ad and I had a buddy pick it up for me while I was across country. I guess I will find out what I bought when I get home in a few weeks. All I know is the Seller claims it needs ALOT of work. Here are the CL ad photos for now.
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