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Showing results for tags 'Gl'.
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This is my sedan what do ya think? i will more pictures up later today.... This is nikki, shes a little rough around the edges but overall shes not too bad A little surface rust never hurt anyone eat sleep shift Chocolate brown interior <3 More interior Them carpets be lookin great Just broke 210K Shes still gettin warmed up And here she is sitting at the gas station more photos of the engine bay and all that fun stuff will be posted later, i got some questions to go along with them
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Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap
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Hello, I'm working on a swap project (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/) and am looking for the pinout for the '89 GL transmission. I've been looking everywhere and for some reason can't track these down - it's really just two plugs... If anyone can point me to one or send me one you'd make my life a bit easier.
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Hey all, I was wondering if anyone had info on removing the stock loyale shift knob. I have already gotten the pin out, but i'm not sure how to remove the 4wd button. Inside the knob is a white plastic casing. will the casing remove from the knob, or do I have to cut the knob off around it? I am going to put the button somewhere on the dash or center console, and thread on an aftermarket shift knob. words of advice/pics much appreciated. Thank you subie family! -
I just bought a 4-Door 1984 GL Wagon with 164,xxx thousand miles. it runs and drives well, save for the lack of rear differential mount bushings making a racket in the rear end, the engine surging because the distributor is very sloppy, and the oil dripping from the power steering pump. The power steering pump seems to be leaking between it and the reservoir, so I believe I should be able to take it apart and re-seal it, correct? The distributor just needs to be replaced. The bushings I cannot locate for the life of me so I am looking for suggestions on where to get them or if I should make them. The owner I bought it from had just replaced the shocks and struts all the way around, the starter, got new tires, new seats, rebuilt the tranny, and replaced all seals and gaskets for the engine. This is the first Subaru I've owned, and auto parts stores don't seem to have the parts I need to replace, so where do you guys suggest I look? And what else, if anything, should I look into on this car that could be a problem in the future? Thanks for any feedback.
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My cluster only has a speedometer and the subaru car HUD (4wd, parking brake, etc). I kind of wish I had a tachometer. If anyone had a spare cluster like this, I'm willing to buy it. Anyone know if it's plug and play? Would it be easier to buy an aftermarket tach gauge to stick somewhere on the dash? Thanks -
New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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Hello all, Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow. The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway. This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before. I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing. The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck. I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -
Been surfing this site for a while but couldn't find a thread on researching older subaru's for a noob. Many years ago, I used to own an 88 GL Sedan with D/R 4x4 - nothing could stop it. Later I had a 90 or 92? Loyale wagon with the push button 4wd - good car just not as much grip low end power as the D/R, but a bit better on the HWY. Looking into getting another Loyale or GL wagon with d/r 4wd but don't know all the drawbacks to each model etc. I am not at all a mechanic, but I want to start doing some stuff on my own. Start simple and build on it, but most stuff I would need a mechanic if fixing was needed. I am not looking for a crawler, more like a capable daily driver/cruiser I could take to the beach, mountain, and camping(but able to handle some serious shiggy if needed). Would like to work at making it reliable for longer 1000mi+ car trips too(later). I see a lot of 87 GL wagons with the D/R 4wd for sale at a lot of different prices and newer Loyale wagons with the push button. I am pretty sure I want dual range 4wd but the loyales seem to usually be in better shape. A lot of broken down 87's out there which makes me consider getting the better running Loyale and later swapping in the d/r 4wd- if that is suggested? Questions - looking at spending around 1500 initially... Based on needs should I look at getting an 1987 with D/R or get a 90 or newer Loyale and convert to d/r later on - any idea on cost for shop to do? Is it better to buy something running well at higher price or get something that needs work at a low price? What should I consider when perusing craigslist? Questions to ask? Any advice or links to different threads is appreciated, maybe even links to CL with some pointers on why good buy or not. Just can't believe how much information there is and sifting through it a bit challenging for a noob. Thanks! -
Hey guys, i need some advice on how to handle this particular situation, as some of you know, i've been around the forums here asking for advice on various things with my 82 wagon, affectionately named Ruth. So, I'm at the point where i need to decide if it is worth taking Ruth to the mechanic to have the brakes worked on, or if working on the brakes is something that My friend and I can handle. My buddy is pretty mechanically inclined, and has done brake work on similar manual brake systems including a 1970 Camaro, and a few VW bugs. I personally have never done any sort of brake work. So here is whats wrong as far as i have deduced. Brake Pads - They are shot on front passenger side. One of them broke off completely when i was checking them out this morning. I looked and it has been pushed out of place from the last time i drove. So there is the brake pad problem. Brake Rotor - The passenger side brake rotor has a pretty deep bore into the outer most part of the rotor. 99% sure from the busted/worn out pad. So the rotor on that side needs to be replaced, i don't think it can be refinished. Calipers - They look fine on both sides, but because of the busted pad i can't really tell. I feel that i should get the calipers replaced on both sides, or at the very least the passenger side. Brake Pistons - I have not checked, but I think they are fine. Master Brake Cylinder - Almost entirely positive that there is a busted seal in there. The brakes don't leak when parked, but when the car was driving I had to really keep my eye on the fluid tank. The brake has always been a little spongy, but has always been able to brake, fairly hard on a couple of occasions. Still, There is definitely been air in the system, and i don't know if it was me, or the master cylinder was already busted before I bought Ruth. Side Note - there is wetness underneath the Master Cylinder, and i think it has dripped over to the brakes on the drivers side. I don't believe the rubber hoses are having an issue or are in need of replacement. I think the fluid is all from somewhere near or in the Master brake Cylinder. Are these all things that my friend and I, and possibly one of you awesome Forum memebers, could work out? Or should i really take this to a mechanic and have them fix it. Some quick pricing puts me at 200-300 bucks to fix it at home, 500 upwards at a mechanic. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm located in Mountlake Terrace in Washington if anyone is nearby and wants to join the fun if we make this a home project. -Scott
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Howdy folks. Here's my recently acquired GL. The peeps who had it before me did a little work. This GL makes my fourth Subaru. This is the first one to be lifted, as opposed to the obvious alternative - lowered. So, it's new. To me. '87 GL frame and body. '95 Impreza 2.2. '91 Legacy tranny. 4" SJR lift. Raked. The underbody LED kit was included in purchase. The Weapon-R intake I've had for a number of years. I originally purchased it for a Legacy.... That Legacy was totaled. Held onto it for three years, put it right back where it belongs. An EJ22. I've a number of things to do to this GL. The list is adding up. The most crucial being the front rotors/pads. Upon trying to switch out pads, I discovered the rotors were so far worn, that the created outer lip is preventing the caliper from being removed. I'll figure out what to do there. Also, the bumper. Does anyone have any info on it? I've seen three Subies so far here on USMB with the same bumper. Where'd it come from? Company? Individual? Anwho, if I have any questions... I know who to ask. Or where, rather. This is BoxerRebellion (a.k.a. Evan) signing out. Talk with you all soon. Cheers. -Let's hit T-Line. Now.
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And here we are once again. Smack in the middle of a rotor/pad job. For.... Whatever reason, I can't for the life of me get the Front-Left caliper piston to go back into it's home. I've repeatedly serviced brakes on five different Subarus throughout my life. I've yet to run into this problem. Even broke the handle on my brake depress tool. Sweet. Opened the bleed valve, pulled the roof off the master cylinder, nothing. Rock solid won't budge. After scurrying around the interwebs I read multiple articles regarding vehicles having caliper pistons that twist in. Does the '87 GL have these twistyroo pistons? Is that the problem? Who here knows something I don't? Any info - greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
Aright so ej swap has been on the road for 25k miles, then it starts normal one morning, shut it off for a few hours, go to take off again and it just cranks and trys to start soo bad, it sounded like a low idle while cranking, but nothing. It has spark and fuel too, the spark looks bright yellow? I got towed around the block with it in gear, it did nothing but spudder here and there. I replaced the cam/crank sensors, the ignitor, coil, and plugs and nothing. I jumped the main relay and also squeezed the fuel return to build higher fuel pressure incase the regulator crapped out. I also got another harness and ecu, tryed the ecu first, same result. Now I just got done spending like 12hours on the new harness, and put it in the car and the SAME crap. The main ground for the ecu is good and snug. I pulled the side timing cover and wiggled the belt and it's tight, i couldn't possibly see it slipping. BTW before doing all this I pulled codes and got idle switch, iac, neutral sw, and st. switch. none of these seem like they would threaten it starting at all? I also hooked the start switch up this time. Also The only ground is through the harness and to the intake manifold, for the ecu that is, but that worked before. -
Just wanted to say hi to everyone, as I'm new to this forum. I drive an '88 Subaru GL that I've had for going on 4 years now, and love everything about this car! It definitely has its quirks for being 25 years old, but that's what makes it so great! My dad taught me to drive in an '87 Subaru 2-dr hatchback, and my first car was an '81 GL. My dad is a huge fan of these cars, and needless to say I've caught the Subaru bug. I'm really looking forward to being a part of this community!
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Hi USMB members- I just picked up an '89 GL wagon. The driver's side front tire is "toeing out" bad. I replaced the stabilizer bar underneath as it appeared bent but it did not fix. Alignment shop won't align and says it's either arm or strut but I think they truly didn't know. I like fixing my own stuff anyway but not sure what to do on this. Will a new strut solve this. I attached a picture I don't know how well it will show the toe-out. Nothing appears to be bent or out of the ordinary on the arm. Thanks in advance for any replies/advice.
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Hey fellow Subie fans, I'm going to be moving from Boulder, Colorado (near Denver) to Brooklyn, N.Y. (NYC...) and will be stopping by Denver's Subaru-filled junkyard on the way out to stock up on parts. Do any of you East Coast Subie people need anything while I'm there? If so, give me a call and we can work something out vis-a-vis shipping costs. You chipping in on gas (and maybe a little labor) will be hugely cheaper than having something shipped. Personally, I've had poor luck finding parts and parts cars on the East Coast (they all rusted to pieces years ago). But the Denver U Pull and Pay always has nearly a dozen GLs and Loyales in the yard. If you need something, give me a call at (757) 635-2136. I'll be in Denver until Friday afternoon (May 17, 2013). Cheers, Ben -
Just showing off my BRAT's. They're not usually all together, but today they are, in a moment of rareness. Two 1986's and a beautifully restored1979 (and an SVX which is hidden in this picture). I may be willing to trade something for a 360 or a Sambar. ;-)
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This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon. Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it. It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt. I can't find a constant 12 any where. Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d
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I have a 86 Subaru brat. I have three original center caps. I found a full set in better condition On a 84 gl hatch. Problem is they don't catch when I try to put them on. Is there a trick to get them to hold. I noticed the clips are a little different. The originals stick out higher then the new ones. But mine don't even stay on all that well. Does anyone have any ideas? the left side is from my brat. the right from a gl hatch http://file:///Users/admin/Downloads/image_1364517789482399.jpg -
Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and live in the northwest have owned 2 Subaru's my VERY FIRST CAR was an 82 Subaru brat I was driving in the country and spotted it sitting under a collapsed barn with a for sale sign in the window I had to have it! paid $450 bucks for it! and drove it home.. man oh man did it need help! first time in the drive way. started fixin it up 2 months later while driving home it caught on fire. I now drive my 2nd Subaru. also my 2ND CAR an 88 GL wagon picker her up off CL for $500 fell in love! she is super clean and RUST FREE! (: after the journey home I will start a build thread because I do plan to build her! stay tuned for more pics and upgrades
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The Car: 1984 Subaru Brat EA81 Turbo - 5 speed D/R swap (3" body lift, increased tire size) ........................................................................... The issue: 1984 5-speed D/R Transmission has a small amount of play (side to side, up down movement) on both of the front splined-stubbed output shafts. on both (passenger and driver) sides of the Transmission. there is a noticable difference between the amount of lateral movement experienced in the front stub shafts (transmission) and the rear stub shafts (rear-differential). ...... i recently put in both new (not remanufactured) front CV-axle shafts, from O'reillys. (yes ive read all of your posts' about the low quality since acquisition). the axles went 200 miles and developed a significant amount of slop; to the point where i do not feel comfortable driving it. the inner CV axles (inner boot) on both front shafts are now quite sloppy. I popped out the pin and removed the Half shafts from the transmission splines (stub shaft) and found them to have some lateral (side to side) movement. I then compared this to a spare rear-differential i had in the shop and found the the transmission to have a noticable amount more slop than the rear-differential. ........................................................................... The Question: what is the correlation between the amount of slop on the stub shafts and its effect on the CV axles? vice versa? is it possible (or necessary) to tighten the stub shaft and remove the play? does an incorrect alignment increase the failure rate of CV axles? How can i get more life out of my half shafts? any other question and useful information on this topic? -
Hello all in USMB world, Happy to be a new member, Thanks. I've had many different models of Subaru over the years, none modified, but its been a while. My newest to me is an '89 GL 3dr D/R 5 Spd that I bought last Saturday. Even before buying it, but not before checking out some of ya'll's too cool modified Subaru', it was earmarked for a small lift and not so small tires. The Info here is inspiring! So far, I think a 2" strut lift, 6 lug conversion, 2.2 swap, I want it to go anywhere my Suburban will go and beyond while still being a good daily driver. I love reading about and seeing what others have done. Amazing! There is probably a thread I haven't found on it yet but I found this Impreza and it's soon to be crushed. http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/pts/3564522993.html I'm wondering if the Struts out of this 97 Impreza would be a good change or not for my GL and if maybe the seats or anything else would be good to grab. Hate to see good parts get crushed. I am very interested in hearing ideas from other more experienced modifiers. Many of you have already been very helpful.
