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Showing results for tags 'Impreza'.
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I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you! -
I am hoping for some positive news here..... I have a 08 2.5i Impreza 5spd manual with 135K miles. I bought the car used in 2010 and had to replace the clutch about a year ago (110K miles). The replacement was done by a Suby dealer. This was the first clutch I have ever replaced in any of my cars including previous VW (15+ years driving a manual). In recent weeks, my fiance has been taking my car to work. About a week ago, the yard at his job was a mud bog. He said the car was stuck about up to the frame. But he managed to get the car out (AHHHH SERIOUSLY). Earlier today he spent hours trying to get the car out of the snow/yard in PA. When I went outside, the car smelled like a pile of tires smoldering. A few hours later, I was going to go to the store and found out I couldn't. The car shifts into all the gears easily. But when in 1st or R and trying to drive, the wheels WON'T move. The rpms don't act like a slipping clutch though. There are no odd sounds either. I am floored that the clutch may be bad. I drove the car about 2 weeks ago for the day and the clutch seemed fine. It wasn't spongy, no odd noise when shifting and it seemed to catch fine. I am hoping there is something else that could be wrong. (PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS) But I don't expect this to be a cheap fix. Would 2x of trying to drive a car out of being stuck cause the clutch to go in a week? I would expect a diff to may be the problem. But would that keep the wheels from engaging? Any help or guidance is appreciated. -
I just recently bought my 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 170k miles on it for the intention of making it a tuner... sort of. I bought the car because it was my best friend's. He had the car for about two weeks, then he very sadly got into a horrible accident (not car-related) that gave him fatal injuries. I miss him a lot and I bought the car to remind me of all of our great memories and so I could turn it into what he would've done. This is my first car that is "tunable", so I don't even know where to start.
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Hello, Last week I drove my Impreza into a snowbank. I didn't realize how delicate the front bumper was (I won't make that mistake ever again). I got lucky in that the damage is just superficial; the headlights and everything all work. In the meantime, I've been getting quotes for around $1000 to replace the bumper. I was wondering how difficult it is for someone to replace the piece on their own. I am reasonably competent with a screwdriver and a wrench, but I am certainly no autobody man. What would you do in this situation? I have attached a photo to give you an idea of the damage. Regards, Rowan
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Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible?
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Does anyone have recommendations for mud flaps on a 2013 base model Impreza? Should we go Factory or Aftermarket? If aftermarket what brand? Weathertech doesn't have them. My nephew just bought his first Subaru and asked what I thought... -
I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Limited (automatic CVT) that I am having some problems with the front differential. A little background… I was driving fairly aggressive for 1-2 hours and the “AT Temp” light came on. I the slowed the vehicle exited at the next exit (~8 km) and turned it off to cool. The next day I was driving about 70 mph (~110 km/h) when the vehicle had a sudden jerk and vibrated aggressively. The rpms dropped to ~2000 and would not go higher. I pulled over and smelt something burning. The vehicle now makes a grinding clunking sound under the car when putting the foot on the accelerator. It sounds almost like loose grinding wheel bearings and is coming from the diff/transmission area. At first I thought it was the CVT... But I drained the CVT fluid and there were no signs of metal debris and color looked good. I then drained the front differential and there was fine metal debris on the magnet. I put new fluid in and drove the vehicle 25 miles (~40 km). The sound diminished some, but is still there. I drained the fluid again and it was littered with superfine metal flakes smaller then glitter. I found one piece of metal as thin as a razor blade and about 8mm x 3mm attached to the magnet. I planned on selling the vehicle this month prior to the mishap... so I’m trying to determine my options. My brother is a mechanic and we can do the work. The problem is we can’t find a front differential. It seems that everyone wants to sell the differential with the transmission. My question(s) to the forum are: Does this sound like the front differential needs to be completely replaced? Or is it perhaps an easier repair? If replacement its needed… does the transmission also need to be replaced or can a guy just do the diff? Can any more harm be done if I keep driving the vehicle and ignoring the sound it makes? What are the consequences? Much appreciated!! -
Hi all! Just got my first Subaru it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that I recently picked up. So far it has been going great but I will notice something and can't figure out what exactly is wrong or if there is a problem to begin with. When driving I will step on the gas to accelerate and get up to 30-mph the Tachometer will rev up to about 2500-3000 until i get up to speed if I let off the gas pedal it will immediately drop down to 1000 rpm then back on the gas and back up. Just wondering what is wrong if their is a problem I will be getting the transmission fluid swapped soon as well if that will help. It is an automatic transmission as well. Thanks ahead of time everyone!! -
hey guys ive been looking at a ton of forums for bits and pieces of the info i need but cant quite make it 100% i have myself the 2003 baja non turbo and its an automatic sadly. ive been sitting on a 5 speed that i cant seem to get sold so i was considering swapping it into my baja. now i have the brake cluster (clutch,brake,booster) the flywheel a clutch and pressure plate the tranny itself the driveshaft. basically everything. now my issue lies on the wiring,rear end, and ecu. so my questions is would i need to splice wires in do i need the ecu and i think my rear is 4.44 but im not 100% would a 4.11 rear from another subie bolt right in? any other pointers would be great. im quite confident in my ability to do the swap i just dont want to get it apart and realize i need something completely random. photos just of the things ive got.
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We fixed it but, I am leaving this post up for two reasons. If it happened to us then it may happen to someone else. I have attached the photo because I have a question as well. The plug connected to the small housing had a missing bolt and it was moving around. I noticed when I moved it with my hand the engine would stall. My question now that we put a bolt in and it fixed the car is, What is this housing and plug? I am very curious as I cannot find anything on it. Thank you all. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all, My son has a 203 Impreza RS 4 door sedan. We are having a terrible time figuring out the problem to the point that we are just throwing parts at it. When he is driving the car, full tank or not it literally stalls on a left or right hand turn. When going over bumps in the road is loses power like it is going to stall, but he usually still has his foot on the pedal so you notice the hesitation until it catches again. We have done the fuel pump that is in the tank, IACV, TPS, Fuel pump relay under the passenger side kick plate and the fuse. IT has its' tune up, but I think this is a fuel issue and I am not sure where to check next. Any ideas? It sits and idles fine and runs fine. It is the turns and the sharp turns and bumps. The typical bend int he road does not affect it. Thanks all for your help. If we cannot figure it out it will go to the mechanic next week. I am tired of messing with it.
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I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin -
Hello there, This is my first post to the forum and i'm hoping someone can help me. While installing a reversing camera and parking sensors in my Subaru Impreza 2012, I had to remove the small front right (drivers side) kick panel. While running the reversing camera wire, I found two unconnected wires, one male and one female connector, hanging close together. mauve?/white (male) and black/yellow (female) (see attached photo) Given their proximity and the fact that they would easily connect together, i'm wondering if they should be connected and have somehow come apart. I'm hoping some kind person with the necessary knowledge or a similar age vehicle can take the time to check and advise me if I should connect them or not. Thanking You John Wex
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A few months ago I bought my first Subaru in 20 years. It's a 1997 Impreza Outback Sport, manual, royal blue. I love this little car! But it has serious issues, and I'm starting to think I'd be better off walking away from it. I replaced the front brake calipers, some fuel return lines, got new front tires, charged the AC, did a full detail and some serious body work, put on a hitch and wired it for my little trailer. After digging into the car it's now apparent it was flooded at one point. There is dirt everywhere, and rust also. I think it was in freshwater. So, having just learned this after weeks of work, I also found out that the fuel lines are rusted, causing it to drip gas. The drip seems to be inaccessible without pulling the fuel tank, which might be impossible with the undercarriage rust. It doesn't seem to affect mpg much, if at all, but the fumes are intolerable with the windows open. Do I have any options here? It only has 134,000, and runs like a top. The motor and transmission are great. The timing belt was done recently. I've gone through it and everything else looks good. Are there ways to repair rusted fuel lines without dropping the tank? I looked in the fuel line access hatch (which is how we discovered the flood factor), and you can't see the leak through that. Thank you for your help, wise Subie gurus! -
I have a 2002 impreza 2.5 TS that was purchased at the beginning of this year. Check engine codes have come on and off over the last 9 months and the engine has progressively shown less power over time. I thought it was misfiring, because whenever I put any load on the engine it would chug like it was misfiring. Spark if good, coil pack is good, spark plugs are good. The chugging became worse and worse over time to the point where it would chug even with a small increase in speed or hill, and eventually one day just quit on the road and hasn't been able to start up since, (unless I give it a lot of gas and it was attempt to stay idle erratically). I put injector cleaner in the gas tank while it was still running, no improvement. The fuel pump noise come on when I turn the key to the on position. Where should I go from here? Pull the injectors and replace? Might it be something else? Codes: P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold P1507: idle air control system malfunction P0456: Evaporative system leak detected (very small leak) -
Hi guys. I need some help. I've swapped and ej20g in to my Subaru pickup. I've had it running fine but recently its not started. It was running fine one day, the next day it didn't so I made a different earth for it and I started straight away. I then left it for another day. Not touched anything and it won't start. So I removed the new earth and it fired up again. Running brilliantly Left it another day and it won't start at all. It cranks but I have no spark. Has anyone got an answer for this. Ibe already swapped the crack sensor over. I'm hoping it's just a relay that was intermittently broken and now has completed given up. Any help with this is appreciated. Thanks -
Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks -
I have an oil leak (maybe multiples) coming from my 96 subaru impreza outback 2.2L (268,000 miles). There was gunk and dirt and oil pretty much everywhere so to help find the leak we cleaned everything up with degreaser. After driving it around I found no signs of dripping but I am getting lots of smoke off my exhaust especially where the connector is. I'm thinking it could be a main seal or separator plate or perhaps even a differential leak but nothing is obvious so I'm quite unsure without any real knowledge of what to do next. In the last 4k miles I've only had to add a quart of oil to the car which doesn't seem like a lot given how much it has been smoking. The diff oil was slightly low as well as the tranny fluid but both within range. Any suggestions on what to do now?
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I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated
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Just recently came a fault code on a 2013 subaru impreza P2090 "B Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1" Can any one point me in the right direction. -
For at least a few months I have had this popping sound coming from what sounds like is inside the dash after decelerating from highway speeds. I am hoping that someone has heard this before or can help me pinpoint cause. I'd like to fix it if possible or at least know that something critical is failing or going to leave me stranded. This is a 1993 Subaru Impreza Wagon/Hatchback and has an EJ18 1.8L SOHC engine with manual transmission, AWD, and no ABS. This sound only occurs after the car as warmed up (it is silent when cold), after driving at 50+ mph for at least a few minutes, and then decelerating and driving around slower. Here is a video where you can hear the noise I am talking about: This video has the driving around cut out. This is after I have driven probably 5 miles at 55 mph and then slowed down into a subdivision. You will notice that it starts making a popping noise which sounds like it is somewhere in the middle of the dash. This is noticeable after getting off the highway but becomes even more noticeable once I slow down further from 35 mph to 20 mph. During the course of this video, I move the camera around between the drivers side and passenger side under the dash, and the on top of the dash. This noise is noticeably louder if there is a bigger difference in speed. Example: 70 mph freeway to an almost stop off an exit. This sound does not exist when the car is completely still. Or if it does, there are only one or two pops and then it stops. You will notice that the noise is not rhythmic and fairly random. I do not believe this is a problem with a engine rotating part, otherwise the sound would exist when revving the car in neutral; which it does not. This video was taken over a month ago and the noise has become louder/more severe when it occurs. This sound started somewhere around the time after I replaced timing belt (and other regular replacement parts normally done at this time), water pump, thermostat, flushed the cooling system and added brand new coolant. This may or may not be related. Has anyone heard anything like this before? Any hypothesis? Is my car dying a slow painful death? Thanks in advance! -
Hi All, We've just created an in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on your EJ201 2007 Subaru Impreza. We thought the members of USMB would find it useful. Tools Required Socket Set Flathead Screwdriver (To remove clips) Trolley Jack and Axle Stands Oil Pan See the guide in full here! -
Hello, I posted a few days ago about my car that won't pass safety. We're looking at a few used models online and since I've always gotten good advice on here I'm wondering what people's opinions on the five were looking at are, if there's any to avoid or a gem or two in there. I haven't seen any in person but the pictures online don't show any noticeable damages or rust and all are wagons/crossover. A couple have been brought up from the States in the past, if that makes a difference. -2009 Tribeca (216,000 km), $10,995 (dealer) -2008 Outback 2.5i (205,000 km), $8,995 (dealer) (American) -2005 Outback 2.5XT Wagon (230,000 km), $6,000 (private) (American; turbo and timing belt replaced at 160k; $3k of work done in 2014 with receipts) -2004 Impreza (194,000 km), $3,000 (private) (Timing belt replaced at 150k) -2004 Impreza (192,000 km), $3,500 (private) We're a family of three, mostly short in city trips with the occassional long distance trip a few times a year. Thank you in advance! -
ok guys here we go I have no one else to turn to. I own a 2010 Subaru Impreza RX 5 speed. it has done 90,000km as soon as I start the car up it will turn off. I have noticed a flashing fuel light but I put petrol I have a flashing key I don't have the clock on the dash working anymore and the temp is flashing red and blue. please please please help -
Thinking about picking up a cheap 1998 Impreza for the soul purpose of making it a 22b and fast... But I'm looking for some input as in prices and what all I'd have to go through to make this happen
