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Dear Friends: As some of you already Know, I have Two Subaru Wagons, my "Everyday Warrior" is the White, Weberized EA82 that is always with me as daily driver; the other is the Yellow ER27 Engined one that is my "Weekend Warrior" and it usually stays with my Parents at my HomeTown. I Work Very Far Away from Home. So my Dad Drives that Yellow ER27 Subie and I Choosed the EA82 because is way more Reliable. Last Saturday I Received Bad News: my Uncle Borrowed my Dad's Subie (the Yellow 2.7 one) to do an errand; while he was cruising in a two way Road, approaching a curve, he just Saw coming a School Bus on the other way, at the same time being Passed by a Medium sized cab-forward Truck, in Direct Collision Course with him! The Truck Driver Tried to Stop but the Tires Locked and went to the Open side of the Curve, so my uncle tried to do everything possible to Stop the car, while steer away but the 2.7 Wagon had a Direct Front impact ... ... Now my Uncle is Better, he had a big Head Hit on the Windshield's Pillar but the Safety Belt Held him Enough to not allow his Stomach to hit the Steerin' Wheel... I asked Dad about my Subie ... ... Considering all the adaption works done during such weird Engine Swap, and that the ER27 Engine is designed to Hold itself to the Front in a much longer engine bay than the Wagon's one, so we welded some sort of "Arm" for it, my Dad said that the Welded Arm point was the worst affected area because it received the Truck's Bumper Direct Hit... Long story Short: he said that the Front Bumper got Smashed in, Both Headlamps and Turn Signals are Broken and left useless, the Hood cover is Damaged, the said front arm was Broken and thus meant a Broken Engine Block; and all the Belts & Pulleys are Smashed to the Front, the external Belts are Bursted and the Timing Belt Covers, tensioners and Belts are damaged too, beside more damage that Couldn't be seen for now but you can imagine for sure... I Want to Go to see my Uncle and the Car's Damage. I want to See if I Can Repair it Somehow ... but I Can not Leave my Job for enough time to Go to my Parents' HomeTown (it takes a Whole Day to Go and a Whole Day to Come because it is a Coast to Coast Voyage) I'm asking my Vacation time to my Boss, Maybe next December... For me, it is So Sad, because too many Time, Work, Effort and Money went on my 2.7 Project since 1999 when everything Started ... You Might Laugh but let me Tell you that I even Cried... ...I am Feeling So Sad... People in my Country Drive Very, Very Bad, Like Crazy. Kind Regards.

This year my Family and I celebrate my Subie's 25 Year Anniversary! My Dad teached me Mechanics since I was a Very Young Child... I Started Learnin' in my 1969 Mercury Comet Coupe, which by the way, reached 40 Years in my Family last Year... You can see Pics & info of it, ~► Here. My Dad Purchased The Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' from there to my Country... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! Some Old Pictures that I've Scanned: In this old Pictures, The Front Rims came from a Subaru XT and the Rear Ones, which are much Wider; came from a Renault. (Cheviot Brand ~ Made in France ~ 4X140) Actually I Changed all those for a complete Set of Newer Rims, by changin' the Lug Pattern. The Odometer is About to Reach 300,000 Miles without Changin' Almost anything inside the Engine, except: Head Gaskets (a Couple of Times), Valve's Seals, the Heads themselves, and the Oil Pump so far... But Outside the Engine I've installed a Weber Carb, plus a Different vacuum advance on the Disty and it has a Free Flow Exhaust, plus Lots of Changes in the Rest of the Car... Here you can See it Parked next to my Other Wagon (The 2.7 wagon, now wrecked) I have been in this site since Year 2001, So I am Reaching this year 25 Years of Being a Huge Subaru Fan, and almost 10 Years to be in this Great Club! ... ... I Must say that I've Learned Many of my Subie Repairs Here, without this Amazing Club I would done many Mistakes ... Also I've Shared my Own Ideas & Experiences on How to do Many Repairs and to do some Improvements to our Beloved Old School Subarus, Posting my Writeups Full of Pics & Detailed info in the ~► USRM. During this Time and with the Kind Help of other USMB Members, I Compiled a Database of All Subarus made & Prototypes, which can be Viewed ~► Here, where you can Find Rare Models like this one: Rare Options, like a Digital Dashboard's Buttons, like the ones in this Pic: Or the Complete List of Subaru Prototypes, with Pics & info: And More Strange & Weird Subaru Stuff! ... ... Like the Subaru "Royale" which is a Stretched XT6 ... Please visit that Thread for Further Details & info. So the Purpose of This Thread is to Say: Thank you So Much to all of You here, in USMB; for being Always So Kind & Helpful! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Links and add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Suspension Improvements For the third Gen Subaru Leone (also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale, Vortex and even as Isuzu Gemminett II, depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.) However, since the Second Gen Subaru Leone (EA81 / Brat) uses the same diameter and tall coil springs on the Front, being different on their spring rate and load rates only; you can use the third gen Leone's (EA82) coil springs on the second gen Leones (EA81), also you can use the Alternative coil springs from another automotive makes, which I mention here, on the second gen Leones, but their suspension could get way too stiff and might need a small cut off on the coil spring's wire, to work. Remember: going too weak or too stiff on the suspension on any car, could make you loose control of it, mainly on irregular terrains, so this could be Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Disclaimer: Use this information, and All the information I post, at your own Risk! Introduction: Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, Stiffer. The modifications written here, has been tested with great results on the third gen Leone (EA82) Wagon only. My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon EA82 new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs on it since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, things which I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin! In this Writeup: ► Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs. ► Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars. ► Their part numbers. ► Photos. First Part: modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts: About The REAR Suspension: In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye... Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie: The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)... ...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised, two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass. So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring. 2WD .Vs. 4WD ► Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base. Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches. Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber, with Part Number and KYB equivalence: The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230 But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear. Chapter 1: How to Improve the Rear Suspension: First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements: I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo: Honduran “Yonkers” are different from the regular “PaP” (pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in “Areas” so, you can find in a Latin American “Yónker”, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American “Yonker” (Junk Yard): I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities. The variables that I compare, are their Measurements, Spring Rates, Load Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised. So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt. The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones. The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is: ~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers? My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution: To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones! (Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...) As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon. (Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo) The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: ~► KYB 341232 in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market). The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers... According to online databases, it does interchange with: ~► Monroe D8344 ~► Sachs 230631 ~► BOGE 27-D67-A I Tested the KYB 341232 only, any other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear, since many, many years ago... ...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel. (as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3") But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above. In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models, here is the Factory Guide about how to do that: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration. ► LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed. About The FRONT Suspension: The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast", new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers: Passenger Side: ~► 71876 .................Driver Side: ~► 71877 Chapter 2: How to Improve the Front Suspension: Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension). Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight. So, using "my own method" which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire. I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications. ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse... Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here. (thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs, So those should be: ~► MOOG CC854 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775375 for "Napa" Brand. These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift, as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru. Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you: They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities: Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia. The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder, with the stiffer suspension. Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc... ...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before. I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways... ...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads... ...and it Feels Really AWESOME! ... ... but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore. Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!

My 1969 Mercury Comet Sports Coupé, Today Reaches its first 40 Years of Non-Stop Work & Run History ... ... My Mercury has been Part of the Family since New, my Dad purchased it on Spring, 1969; and I came on it the day I was Born in 1975 ... After lots of Family Memories and Tons of Photos, Travels Videos, etc, Together; makes this MuscleCar to be a True Part of the Family, is somehow like my "Brother" ... I Named it "Herbie" when I was Child... so many Memories together makes this classic, Priceless! Now after 40 years and more than three full Turns (and counting) on the Odometer, it still Runs like a Champ! Here you can See "Herbie" next to my Former White Wagon, which Now is Modified and known as the "BumbleBeast" Here you can See "Herbie" parked outside the House, and my Former White Wagon, inside the Garage: Here you can see "Herbie" Parked in front of my yellow "Loyale 2.7" (Now Dead - Background Story here) Project Wagon: Engine Photo: Much More Photos in my USMB Photo Album: Here ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/13502-loyale-27-turbo/?tab=gallery I've upgraded it with Front Disc Brakes, a Brake Booster (Subaru, by the way), Chromed Engine Parts (Such as Head Cover, etc...), Under Body anti Rust Paint, Body Paint, a "Yamaha" Stereo, etc... Also I managed to "Made" (with the help of a Friend who owns a Metal Casting Factory), a Piece for the Engine: The Water Inlet (Where goes the Thermostat) is now Made of Thick Brass, instead the Weak one that Ford does (Made of Manganese?), which somehow trend to get destroyed after a couple of years of use. It Runs Great on its Manual Trans and Being just 250 Cui (4.1L) 6 Cyl. is economic to Drive for a Full Sized MuscleCar Coupe. I Just Wanted to Share our Celebration! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Picture's Links and Web Links, due to the New USMB's System

My Wife wanted another car to keep as Backup, since the Series of Unfortunate Events that we faced with our Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" after the 7.3 degree Earthquake. I have another car, but my '69 coupé is at my parents' home, far away... I believe is a Good Idea to have a Backup Car, so if I need to Fix something on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru, there will be another car available to use, also She want to drive her own car sometimes ... ... So, we Found a LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subaru Legacy Wagon... (1990) ...we have not seeing it yet, but by Phone we talked to the owner and he said it was owned by the Local Subaru Dealer's CEO, it is a Sporty Wagon in Dark Golden Champagne Colour with Luxury Rims, also they said that it was a Special Request for the Dealer's CEO to be "Sporty" and has some Upgrades, which they didn't explain Yet ... ... Little is Known about that Subie so Far, and we Expect to Meet the Sellers by the next Saturday, I Will Take Photos of that Subie (if they Allow me to do So) and I'll Post 'em Here. But while we meet, I Kindly Ask you for any Advice about that Model, any Idea, anything that might be a Must Check... any advice is Very Welcome! Kind Regards.

Last Weekend I Went in one of my Usual Trips, but went alone... ...and during it, we Got a 7.3 Degrees EarthQuake in Honduras! ... ... EarthQuakes are very Rare in Honduras, my Country is the Only One in Central America without Volcanos, To know More about that EarthQuake, click Here: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_Honduras_earthquake Many Many Roads got Severly Damaged; some Broken areas, Missing Bridges, Flooded zones, etc... Believe me: it is Horrible to Drive while the Road Shakes ... ... especially at Very Late Night times while Feeling Sleepy ... I Usually Drive at Very Late Nights, That's Why I Have the 5,000K dual beam H.I.D. Lights. Let me share a Photo to show you how some of the Roads Ended after said Earthquake: This is a Picture I Took Some Days After, the Yellow Painted Line was the Center -Middle- of the Road; part of the lane disappeared, Also some roadside Houses Went Rolling Downhill, literaly: So, Right After the EarthQuake Shaked it All (Even my Butts, Seated on my Subie), I Decided to Still continue driving... I Was driving alone in an Old two-way Road Within the Woods, at Around 2:30 AM in the middle of a typical Caribbean Downpour Night when the EarthQuake Suddenly Happened ... then I Felt Scary Like I Was in the Middle of Nowhere with dancing trees all around, So I Choose to continue Driving -But pretty Slowly- my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" because I Was Nearby -Around 20 Miles- of my Destination town. Some few Miles After that, I Had to Cross thru a newly formed Pond that had a Hidden -Under Muddy Waters- Break / Stones at Some Point ... Both were New Obstacles (Pond & Pavement Break / stones) Due to the EarthQuake... I drove in first gear as slow as I could, but suddenly, my Subie Fell and had a solid Impact Sound under the Driver's Front Wheel ... ... I Know that Maybe it was a truly Stupid Idea to Continue Driving after such Earthquake, But I didn't wanted to get stranded in the middle of nowhere, within the woods. Then, when I was almost Reaching the Town, My Subie Totally Lost the Brakes! ... ... somehow I Was Able to Drive like That because no one else was on the streets, I drove very Slowly and Parked it Outside Home, with the tires Turned to the Sidewalk. So, the Very Next Day I Checked Everything ... I Don't Know How it Happened, but some of the e-Brake Parts at the Caliper of the Driver's side Wheel, got Damaged; the Small arm that activates the Piston on the caliper, where the Cable goes attached, was Bent; Also All the Brake Fluid was Coming from the Rear of the Caliper's Piston, so the e-Brake's Bolt-Like Pin got bent and had a ripped O-Ring. I Just Removed the Parts, Straighten the Bent pin and used a New O-Ring to Seal the Leak: It Works as Long as I Don't attach the e-Brake Cable there Again ... ... because I tried to re-attach it and if Someone Pulls the e-Brake Handle, Everything Works Fine but the O-Ring will Break and Leak Again for sure! ... ... So, the e-Brake is no longer Working anymore, I left disconnected both Cables to avoid brake fluid leaks. I am Really Tired of that e-Brake System which has gave me many headaches and Now, after the Hit, it seems to be Damaged beyond any repair ... it Always have Been considered by me as one of the Worst Parts of My Subie, along the Timing Belts and the Factory Rear Shock Absorbers. I started another Whole Thread, only for the Front Calipers' Swap Questions. It is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98476-help-please-direct-front-brakes-swap/ Kind Regards.

So Sad to Ask, but Someday, Somehow it should gonna Happen: When Our Older Generation of Subies, Will Fall into the Historic Generation? By the Evidence, I see that a New Generation is Classified -Well, Some Sort of- by the Engine's Technology & Family, Also by Body Design. That's Why the Loyale (EA) is Older Generation, even if they was still Available New untill 1994, and Legacies (EJ) are New Generation, even if they Started to Sell them as Early as 1989. So, Seeing http://www.boxerdiesel.com/ Website, about the New Subaru's Engine Technology, and Seeing the New Body Stile with Doors that have Frames ... ... I Believe that the Day when our EA Engined Subies from the Eighties and Nineties, will become part of the Historic Gen Too, is Near ... With all these UnSubaru Changes, and the Development of the New Toyota AE86 (Trueno) by Subaru, and Posibly the new Camry... What do you Think About that?

Well... I Was Thinking that Usually in our Pictures, only Appears our Subies and other Things... But Not Us, the Ones Behind the Wheel! So Lets Share some Pics of Us! Kind Regards.

As Many of you already know, I Travel too often and Usually I got a Camera nearby... Last travel I saw a Nice Subaru Loyale Sedan, dark grey and its Rear Part was too High than its Front, then I Noticed something "Wrong" with it. See: Well... it is not "Wrong", Just Unusual to see a Loyale's Rear Looking just like my 1969 Mercury Comet: With a Solid Axle big Diff and Leaf Springs Sorry: I Couldn't obtain better Pics, it was Late Afternoon and I Think I Scared the Driver, 'cos after the Third pic I Take, he did run more Faster... and I Slowed down to let him go in Peace... I Wish I Could ask him more Details of the Swap, but I Think it is a Rear Diff + Springs that came from a Toyota Corolla (1983 Wagon?) Nice Swap Idea, if you Consider that Good Quality Axles are Dissapearing and Poor Quality -ussualy Chinese- Brands are taking the Market... Also FWD Axles trend to fail too Often in our Roads. What do you Think About this? Could it be a Good Idea to make a Car More Reliable / Cheap to Drive \ Easy to Maintain? Kind Regards.

In This Writeup: ► Understanding How a Relay Works. ► Knowing which Wire is for, at the Round Relays. ► How to Swap the Old Worn Relays with Newer, more Capable ones. ► Finding the Location of the Relays on a Subaru EA82 (Third Gen Leone / Loyale) ► Learning to Wire New Relays if Desired... in case you wanna Run Halogens, Bigger Horns, etc... ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ First of All: I Hope this Write Up will Help anyone with Electrical Problems due to bad Relays, Such as Power Windows, Air Conditioneer, HeadLamps, Halogens ...etc... also you'll learn how a Relay Works and How to Easily Wire New Relays. You Know that when you Switch Almost Anything Electric in your any car There is a Relay Takin' the Main Job of Sending the Power to the Accesory you Switched On; the Switch that you Touch or Handle, is just a "Remote Control Signal Sender" to those Relays. Very Long Long Time Ago, I had Problems with my Subarus' Electric Powered Windows, and then Long time ago with the Air Conditioneer too, I Found that the Fault of Slow Workin' / Non Workin' Power Windows was due to a Bad Relay; Also The good ol' subies had A/C Engaging & keep workin' Compressor Problems. An Easy Fix Would be to Just Change the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, But Those Relays aren't Easy to Find, They Need the Whole 12V Power to engage Properly, they are Expensive, and they are only 22 Amps Rated ... ... Beside that at this point of the wirings' life, their Sockets (Plugs) Could be burnt too... In my Own humble opinion, the Best Solution of All is to Swap There Bosch Standard Relays. I've Done it to the Main A/C Relay, the Two Auxiliary A/C Relays, the Power Windows' Relay, and the two HeadLamps Relays. I'll Explain How To do that swap Here, with Photos. Bosch Standard Relays comes in Many Quality Brands, Not Only Bosch (By the way, I Saw Bosch's Made in Portugal, Germany and Brazil, rated at different Amps) There are many Other Brands that Make the Bosch Standard relays, like Hella, Wagner, Flösser, Osram, Sylvania, Potter & Brumfield ... etc ... so They are Easy to Find, They are Cheaper than stock round relays, and Give Better / Faster Response; they just need as Little as 8 Volts to Engage, also Bosch Standards are more Reliable, and are Rated from 30 Amps to 40 Amps, so They'll Last Longer too ... ... Warning! - Please Forget about Cheapo bad quality relays. In Example, This is a photo of a "Potter & Blumfield" 40 Amps Relay, Made in USA, The one that I've Swaped in, instead the Main A/C Relay Under the DashBoard: But to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay in your Subie, You'll Need to Cut off the Subie's Plug and Weld there a Bosch Standard Plug ... Or use an Adaptor. I'll Explain How to do That Too, is Easier than you Could Imagine, but keep Readin' Carefully, and Do Not Forget to Remove one of the Battery Terminals prior to Start Cutting / Welding any Wire. Please: Be Careful While doing this, follow this instructions at your own Risk. The Plugs' Swap is needed to be Done just once for each Relay Unit; then in the Future if you Need to Change any Bosch Standard Relay, the Plug Stays, you only Need to Pull the old Relay from it, and put there a Fresh New Relay; and That's it!

Hi All !!! I use to Drive too much during Night Times, sometimes during huge Rainstorms. To drive on the Roads at Night's Deeps can be Dangerous due to the many problems we got on our Developin' country, like Huge Potholes on the Roads, not enough Signals, Some Roads are just Ground (no Pavement at all) and many beasts (Like Cows, Horses, Donkeys, and Drunk Drivers) are ussually Crossing the Roads very fast without any care... (Yes, Honduras is called "The Alice Country" due to its "Wonderland" Features ) ...so, a Good Light Beam is Really Necessary here, to reach your destination alive. Sometime ago I've posted about Changin' the 9004 Halogen Bulbs (Ussually 45 Watts Low / 65 Watts High - Wider Range) with 9104 Bulbs (80 W Low / 100 W High - Larger Range) See this comparison Photo for Reference: But they became scarce here, as many Good Quality Parts... now only low quality chinese parts are widely avaliable. So, this is the Light Pattern I have on my Subie, using: ► the Headlamps on Low: ► the Headlamps on High: ► High Beams + the Under Bumper Halogens: So, You clearly notice that the Under Bumper Halogens are Much More Brighter than the Headlamps. I use Flösser 100 Watts Bulbs on the Under Bumper Halogens, also the HeadLamps' bulbs are suppossed to be rated at the same 100 Watts too... but Under Bumper ones are really Much Brighter, big Difference. I've Already Checked the Connectios, Relays, etc ... every single Thing is just Fine, so I think that those 9104 Bulbs (or 9004) aren't really Enough for those huge Headlamps ... I don't Like that the Under Bumper Small Halogens gives me the only "Good Visibility" for the Road, as the main HeadLamps are weak. But that seems to be normal on those 9004 / 9104 Headlamps if you Compare their Brightness with Modern Standards, even with the more common H4 halogen bulbs. By the way, the Later EA82 Subarus, featured H4 Halogen bulbs instead the lousy 9004, also their headlamps' Housing is Plastic, despite of keeping the Glass lense; but that is in our LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subarus, those were not offered in USDM. Let me show ya: But to Swap my 9004 Headlamps with H4 Headlamps, is very expensive. So: Time to Upgrade to H.I.D.'s ? I Don't wanna Hurt anybody's eyes with Extra Illumination Power on the Main HeadLamps, so if I go H.I.D, I'll Adjust 'em to the Best; I think I Really Need that Extra Power, for Safety. So, here goes the Questions: ► If I Will Do the H.I.D. Conversion, Which Kind of Light Colour is Better? I Really Dislike Blue Coloured Light, 'cos it Seems to be "Absorved" by the Wet Pavement... Too Dark to be Safe, so: 6500K, 8000K? ► Here in the Market are easier to Find 6000K Kits ... They seems to be not too Blue, around "White" ... What do you Think about? ► If I Do the Conversion, I Will Need more Space to Place the Ballasts, so the Overfill Plastic Tank for the Radiator, Should be Moved... Any Advice? Any other Idea / Suggestion \ Advice is Welcome! Thank you, Kind Regards & Blessings.

Well... it all Started one Weekend, my Dad took the Yellow Wagon to do a Short trip, and he stopped at a Gas station for some gas, then at its food mart for some snacks. While he was sat on the car, correctly Parked at the Food Mart, talkin' by Cellphone, someone drunk driver did side hit the front bumper very Fast... and this is the Result: The Damage wasn't much bigger, due to the fact that the bumper was already reinforced with Fiberglass and some added metal assist points, but the car moved around a feet horizontally with the side hit. Well... dad just got a li'l Head's hit, but he's Fine, O.K. Now ... but my Yellow Wagon's front Bumper was in very sad conditions... So, I went home (I work soo far away for now) to do the Repair, and I asked a friend who is a Good Fiberglass Artisan, to help me with such material. First, we took out the Front Bumper. This is a Detailed view of the Damage, includin' some Li'l twist on it's Metallic Base. Then, we started to remove out the old finish material and we Dissasembled it, Repairin' the Li'l Twist on its Base, and Reinforced it with more metallic assist points, a pair of `em did bypass the original plastic cover, The idea is to hold very firm that plastic cover to the Metallic base. We needed to cut down the Remainin' Reinforcement points... ...This is my Friend, doin' that. Then, We used sandpaper and covered it with the Fiberglass. Fiberglass comes like a Fiber Fabric, just cut the pieces you want, and then Spread all over it a Epoxy Compound, mixed with Hardener... Many coats of that Epoxy / Fiber, like you're makin' a Lasagna! Then, we used Sandpaper on the Already Dryed Fiberglass (untill Next day's Afternoon, to be Sure that was completely Cured) And Covered it with Flex. You can Notice a Li'l bit the Heads of the Metallic Assist points, and the Licence Plate's Screws, that comin' from behind the Bumper. This is how it ended lookin` at my Friend`s Repair Shop: (he did help me with fiberglass, I Prepared and Painted it) And Finally, This is the Results: My Yellow Wagon's Smile is Back! ... ... I Love it! The Bumper was Clean, while the Rest of the car was Dirty... But it Looks Soo Good! Well... I Hope this Idea could help those who want to Repair or Improve the Lookin' of their Car's Bumpers... Next to Do: a Hood Scoop... "the InterFooler" ...Comin' Soon! Kind Regards.

Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure

My former White Wagon, the Weberized EA82, (now my "BumbleBeast") Was Leakin' Oil, but the Surprise is that it Wasn't from the Usual Places... it Was comin' from the Base of the Pipe Used to Pour Fresh Oil on the Engine, the one that Goes to one Head ... One of the Threads was Damaged, I don't know How ... Maybe it was Loose and Vibrations did damage it. How to Easy Fix a Damaged Thread on Aluminum in a Engine's Head? Well... I Started Removin' the Pipe. Here you can see the Oil and dirt that came from its Base And to Prevent Small Metallic debris from goin' inside the Head, I placed a Small Cloth very tight inside the Head's opening, and Covered it with many Masking Tape Layers. Then, I Drilled the Thread! ... ... Yes, I Drilled it! Originally it Was Like 1/4" ... I Drilled it to 3/8" Here you can See a Closer Perspective: Then, I Remake the Thread, but in 3/8" ... See: Here comes the Solution: I Drilled inside a 3/8" Bolt... ...And I made the Original 1/4" Thread inside the 3/8" Bolt! (Important Note: Don't Forget that Stock are Milimetric Measurements, I wrote Here the Equivalence on inches for easy Reference) Then, I Just Used Thread Locker, to Screw the 3/8" Bolt on the New 3/8" Thread on the Head, then I Removed the 3/8" Bolt's Head. (it was Pre-Cutted in each side, to make Easier Removal of the Head) Finally it Looks like this: And it Solved the Problem, Absolutely! I Hope this Ideas Could Help many People with Similar Problems, If you find this Useful, don't forget to let me Know By hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.

Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.

Long time Ago I wanted to install a Stereo CD Player + Radio unit on both my Subaru Wagons, the ER27 (H6 2.7) and the EA82 ("BumbleBeast") and, since the Newer Stereo Units are Larger than the Old Ones, they'll come outside around one or two inches from the Dash, Also they will Stay Directly in front very near of the Shifter Knob, and that is a Problem, especially when shifting fast to third gear. So, I did This Idea: it is a Wooden Frame, Cutted in a 45º Angle to make the Look of a Original Mounting, in that Way, nobody notices the 2 inches elongation outside the dashboard. I Painted it to mate the Dashboard's Original Colour. And I did Cut Down the Shifter Too! ... ... Not only for the Looks, it has many advantages, like shorter shifting travels, but the main reason was to Avoid Hitting the Stereo Unit while doin' a "Fast & Furious" kind of Shifting, especially to Third Gear ... ... also to Avoid Hitting the Passenger's Knee ... ... I Was About to Finish a Drawing explaining the Wiring Diagram, because I changed the Stock plug and added a Custom Plug while separated the Speakers' ground (Newer units needs fully independent wires) but I Found that the wiring is already very Good Explained here, in this same section of the USMB by another member, so I only will tell you this tips: Don't forget the Shared Ground for Both Left Speakers, and the Other Side's Shared ground for both Right Speakers; you must rewire them to independent ground on each Speaker, in order to avoid problems with the built-in Amplifier. As far as I know, each Speaker comes wired independently from factory, but there is a place behind the Glove Box, on the Wiring Harness, where the Factory merged the Grounds for each side. You can track down the point and rewire the part from the New Stereo's Plug to the Wiring Harness. Kind Regards.

Hi Again! I Have the Idea (Maybe the Project) of Change all the Backlight Bulbs of at least one of my Wagon´s Dashboard, to H.I.D White L.E.D.s (High Intensity Discharge Light Emission Diodes) Have you seen those? They look like the White Ones on the Base-right of this Image: They´re so Bright!, not like Common Leds, so that´s Why they´re Called H.I.D. L.E.D.s. I have two in the Map lights at the Roof, but They Aren´t Extremly Bright, I think that if a Common Bulb do 5 Watts Output, those L.E.D.s may do only 7 Watts Output, but I´m not Sure... Why Change the Backlights? ... Well, both my Wagons got the Yellowish Backlight (Found on the early EA82´s), instead of the Greener backlight Found on the Newer ones, so, it looks Like it is Just the Direct Light of the Bulb, with no Tint at All... and the Dashboard is so Pretty for that illumination. :-\ This is how they Look: So, the seven Questions are: Did a Brighter Backlight illumination be Harmful? I think I can use the Dimmer lights on L.E.D.s, isn´t it? is Possible to Change all the Bulbs for those L.E.D.s? Are all of those Backlight Bulbs, the Same? What do you Think About? Have anyone Tried somethin´ like That before? Do you think the Dashboard will look Nicer with Brighter White Lights, or I will just make it look Uglier? Shall I use other color than White? Finally, I must say that those H.I.D. White L.E.D.s, Looks like a Standard Neon tube´s Light, Plain White, but Near to the Blue... Any opinions / Suggestions \ Ideas will be Wellcome! Thanx! ► Edited to add Tags, due to the New USMB's system.