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  1. THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.
  2. So Sad to Ask, but Someday, Somehow it should gonna Happen: When Our Older Generation of Subies, Will Fall into the Historic Generation? By the Evidence, I see that a New Generation is Classified -Well, Some Sort of- by the Engine's Technology & Family, Also by Body Design. That's Why the Loyale (EA) is Older Generation, even if they was still Available New untill 1994, and Legacies (EJ) are New Generation, even if they Started to Sell them as Early as 1989. So, Seeing http://www.boxerdiesel.com/ Website, about the New Subaru's Engine Technology, and Seeing the New Body Stile with Doors that have Frames ... ... I Believe that the Day when our EA Engined Subies from the Eighties and Nineties, will become part of the Historic Gen Too, is Near ... With all these UnSubaru Changes, and the Development of the New Toyota AE86 (Trueno) by Subaru, and Posibly the new Camry... What do you Think About that?
  3. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    How to Easily Test an Ignition Module

    The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.
  4. As Many of you already know, I Travel too often and Usually I got a Camera nearby... Last travel I saw a Nice Subaru Loyale Sedan, dark grey and its Rear Part was too High than its Front, then I Noticed something "Wrong" with it. See: Well... it is not "Wrong", Just Unusual to see a Loyale's Rear Looking just like my 1969 Mercury Comet: With a Solid Axle big Diff and Leaf Springs Sorry: I Couldn't obtain better Pics, it was Late Afternoon and I Think I Scared the Driver, 'cos after the Third pic I Take, he did run more Faster... and I Slowed down to let him go in Peace... I Wish I Could ask him more Details of the Swap, but I Think it is a Rear Diff + Springs that came from a Toyota Corolla (1983 Wagon?) Nice Swap Idea, if you Consider that Good Quality Axles are Dissapearing and Poor Quality -ussualy Chinese- Brands are taking the Market... Also FWD Axles trend to fail too Often in our Roads. What do you Think About this? Could it be a Good Idea to make a Car More Reliable / Cheap to Drive \ Easy to Maintain? Kind Regards.
  5. Dear Friends: As some of you already Know, I have Two Subaru Wagons, my "Everyday Warrior" is the White, Weberized EA82 that is always with me as daily driver; the other is the Yellow ER27 Engined one that is my "Weekend Warrior" and it usually stays with my Parents at my HomeTown. I Work Very Far Away from Home. So my Dad Drives that Yellow ER27 Subie and I Choosed the EA82 because is way more Reliable. Last Saturday I Received Bad News: my Uncle Borrowed my Dad's Subie (the Yellow 2.7 one) to do an errand; while he was cruising in a two way Road, approaching a curve, he just Saw coming a School Bus on the other way, at the same time being Passed by a Medium sized cab-forward Truck, in Direct Collision Course with him! The Truck Driver Tried to Stop but the Tires Locked and went to the Open side of the Curve, so my uncle tried to do everything possible to Stop the car, while steer away but the 2.7 Wagon had a Direct Front impact ... ... Now my Uncle is Better, he had a big Head Hit on the Windshield's Pillar but the Safety Belt Held him Enough to not allow his Stomach to hit the Steerin' Wheel... I asked Dad about my Subie ... ... Considering all the adaption works done during such weird Engine Swap, and that the ER27 Engine is designed to Hold itself to the Front in a much longer engine bay than the Wagon's one, so we welded some sort of "Arm" for it, my Dad said that the Welded Arm point was the worst affected area because it received the Truck's Bumper Direct Hit... Long story Short: he said that the Front Bumper got Smashed in, Both Headlamps and Turn Signals are Broken and left useless, the Hood cover is Damaged, the said front arm was Broken and thus meant a Broken Engine Block; and all the Belts & Pulleys are Smashed to the Front, the external Belts are Bursted and the Timing Belt Covers, tensioners and Belts are damaged too, beside more damage that Couldn't be seen for now but you can imagine for sure... I Want to Go to see my Uncle and the Car's Damage. I want to See if I Can Repair it Somehow ... but I Can not Leave my Job for enough time to Go to my Parents' HomeTown (it takes a Whole Day to Go and a Whole Day to Come because it is a Coast to Coast Voyage) I'm asking my Vacation time to my Boss, Maybe next December... For me, it is So Sad, because too many Time, Work, Effort and Money went on my 2.7 Project since 1999 when everything Started ... You Might Laugh but let me Tell you that I even Cried... ...I am Feeling So Sad... People in my Country Drive Very, Very Bad, Like Crazy. Kind Regards.
  6. This is not a scientific article; the main purpose is to give you the general idea regarding different motor oils, and how to wisely chose the proper one for your car's engine; also understanding how they do their job, and more... Don't do this! In this Article: ♪ Understanding Motor Oils ♫ Understanding Classification and Nomenclature ♪♫ How to Wisely chose between the Manufacturers given numbers ♫♫ Differences between Mineral and Synthetic Oils, and types of Synthetics ♫♪♫ and Much More! ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Motor Oils, Basically Does all these Things: ► First: Engine Oil stops all the Metal surfaces in your Engine from Grinding together and Shearing themselves from Friction, by Lubricating its internals. ► Second: Engine Oil transferes the Heat away from the Combustion cycle. ► Third: Engine Oil must also be able to Hold in Suspension all the Nasty by-products of combustion, such as Silica (silicon oxide) and Acids, also External contamination, such as Dust. ► Fourth: Engine Oil minimises the Exposure to Oxygen and thus prevents Oxidation at Higher temperatures. It does all of these things under Tremendous Heat and Pressure... Part one: the Proper Viscosity & Thickness (SAE Grade) Recommended for your engine. SAE = Means a Standard of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Remember: The viscosity of a fluid describes its resistance to flow. Heavyweighted fluids such as honey have high viscosity and flow very slowly, while Lightweighted fluids such as water have a low viscosity and flow much faster under the same conditions & temperatures. But in the Motor oil World, Viscosity is somewhat confused with Thickness, and those are two different things with different meanings. ☼ Viscosity depends strongly on temperature and is a major factor in the Flow of the oils. In example, the specification “10W~30” (“W” means “winter”) in a motor oil means the viscosity of the oil at 0º C (32º F) is no more than 3.1 poise, while the viscosity at 100º C (212º F) is no less than 0.1 poise. Naturally, all oils gets thin and flows easily when they are at high temperatures and pressures. (Normal working conditions inside any engine). But modern Oil formulas are designed in Labs (Mixed with special additives), to have certain compensation to that thinning, to keep doing their job properly under high heat and pressure. I will explain how this compensation occurs, below. ☼ Thickness of the oil, is about the oil Barrier it could lay, inbetween moving metallic parts to prevent Shearing. It is the "cushion" that bears the friction between moving metal parts, the greater number means thicker "cushion" but, you should keep in mind that the tolerances between moving metallic parts, not always allows a "Thick" oil to flow properly; that is the reason why certain manufacturers, indicates to use -in example- a 5W~20 (Thin) motor oil, while other manufacturers indicates to use a 20W~50 (Thick) motor oil, on same displacement engines; (Compare older engines with up to date ones). You shall never exceed the numbers given by the car's manufacturer, or the engine internals' tolerances will not allow the oil to flow properly / in time, nor to do its job as it should, causing damages to the engines. Obviously, hot oil will flow better than cold oil, but here... ...you can see how they Behave at 0º C (32º F) ► Multigrade oils have the ability to compensate the natural thinning of their molecules, that normally happens with Heat, so they gets their molecules to grow Thicker when they're exposed to the internal temperatures of a working engine; in that manner, multigrade oils compensates the natural fluid's weight reduction due to the heat exposure; in example: A 10W~40 Oil will behave as a grade "10" oil does at Cold-to-Ambient Temperatures, and will become thicker and behave as a grade "40" oil does, when it it exposed to the heat of the engine at its normal operating temperatures. So those oils with a "W" on their SAE Grade, are "Multigrade" Oils, (W for Winter times) their first number on their SAE grade is the "cool temperatures" number: Thinner oil helps to the engine's oil pump to move the oil faster during cold starts when engine is Cool and thus means less shearing by friction during cold starts. But the Oil's molecules will become thicker with heat, so the same oil will behave as the Second Number, intended for "hot temperatures" on their SAE Grade, when the engine Reaches its Normal operating Temps, compensating in order to have enough protective oil film "Cushion" between moving metal parts and prevent shearing. Want to learn How the Oil "Thickness" protective layer prevents Shearing on your Engine? ... Download the .pdf file document at the Bottom of this Page, you can see tests' results with Photos on it. The oil barrier thickness increases with Heat due to the Polymers that where added to the Oil, those absorb temperatures; also Thinner Oils will increase the Oil Pressure on the engine and that is really needed on Cold Starts, to help the Oil to Reach the Farther engine's places, Faster. How do Multigrade oils get Thicker with heat? The answer was given by Mobil 1: Here: ~► http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Multi_Viscosity_Oils_Long_Molecule_Thicker_Oils.aspx ► Monograde Oils (Single SAE Number) will not vary at all and will behave the same at all the temperatures' range; unless it becomes Very hot, when its Thickness 'Could be' Reduced, it is known as "Oil Break Down" ... (more noticeable on Cheap brands with poor Quality) ... That is the inverse situation and could be Harmful for a Very Hot Operating or for an Overheating Engine: That oil under that conditions could Lost its main Lubricating Properties. I Really advice against the use of Monograde oils on Cars, because they Won't flow properly on Cold Starts, remember: Those parts that worns faster inside the Engine are those parts that doesn't get Oil fast enough with Proper Pressure; so a Multigrade Oil will Reduce both the Time working without Oil on Cold Starts and the low Pressure. Monograde oils could still be good for Power Plants, 18 wheels' trucks, etc... But Not ideal for a Car's engine. Keep the Proper SAE Grade in Mind when you Buy your Next Oil. Be Careful with the Viscosity Grade! The Oil Pumps only creates flow, not Pressure; the Pressure exists due to the Resistance on the engine's internals to such Flow; and the hydrodynamic film strength is what prevents metal to metal Shearing. A thicker oil will increase oil pressure in any engine, but only to a point, due to the Oil Pressure Relief Valve that will simply route oil back to the pan after Reaching certain pressure on the System. So, since Pressure is resistance to flow, a 20W~50 motor Oil will increase pressure, but it means that it does not flow as well through the bearings nor to the top of the motor, causing the Low Pressure problems, let me explain: Considering that a 20W~50 oil is 3 to 4 times thicker cold than a 5W~30, when a Cold engine is Started, there will be Restricted oil Flow when it is needed the Most: the oil relief valve will Cut the flow further by opening at the higher pressure and dumping oil back into the pan. In some engines it will take Longer for the oil to get to the cam shafts, and the Small diameter hole in the middle does not facilitate the Flowing to the high viscosity oil. Since the oil flows from Front to Rear on the cam shafts, it is going to take the last Cylinder valves the Longest to get the oil Flow Needed. The oil squirters spray pattern on the cylinder walls will degrade with a high viscosity oil, especially in cold conditions. While a thinner motor oil keeps the pressure in the upper engine, because the pressure is less than the oil relief valve's top pressure, and the system gets well presurized faster. Remember that the Automotive industry changed their way of thinking regarding Engines. In the past, small displacement engines were designed, keeping in mind that they were built to be used in compact cars; and "Long Lasting" was their main concern, as automotive makers wanted to make a reputation; so Older engines are more "loose" which means that their tolerances -the space inbetween moving metallic parts, and tiny passages- was greater, and could be filled easily with thicker motor oils; that is the reason why you can read in the owners' manual from an average 1.8L engine from the 1980's decade, that 20W~50 was usually the oil recommended to be used. If automotive makers wanted performance and high horsepower output, they had then the six cylinders and eight cylinders' engines with Big Displacement, intended for "Performance" you know... But, the automotive industry of nowadays, is using pretty small displacement engines to move big cars, you can see big SUV's with in-line four cylinder engines that has small displacements, but having high power output, rounding the average Hp of a V6 from the past; and what they did to achieve such goal, is -basically talking- to make their engines "Tight" by reducing Tolerances at their minimum, and use metal alloys that resist such kind of internal pressures; but they requires pretty "Thin" Motor Oils to lubricate properly such engines with tight tolerances; that is the reason why you can see 0W~16 and even 0W~8 motor oils on the autoparts stores, nowadays... Long story short: Despite that a 20W~50 motor oil, provides a better "Cushion" between metallic moving parts, to prevent Shearing; you can Not use such a thick motor oil on an Engine that was not designed to be Lubricated with it; tight tolerances will never allow it to Lubricate and do its job as it should; that is the Reason why you should always respect the Manufacturers' given Numbers in your user's Manual, and if they provides various option, Choose wisely (keeping in mind the environmental / climate temperatures of your area), from the numbers given. Part Two: The Motor Oil's Quality. The American Petroleum institute API Has Two ways to classify Motor Oils: the Gasoline Motor Oils are clasified under the "S" Letter (From "Spark" combustion engine) While Diesel engine oil is clasified under the "C" Letter (From "Compresor" Combustion engine) The API has a program to certify that the Motor oils, meets the strict Performance and quality standards put in place by the OEM. The Service Rating is shown in the API “Service Seal” on the product label, that may look like one of these examples: So, The letter that follows the "S" or the "C" will let you know if the Additives Package (Detergents, Dispersants, Stabilizers, etc... ) is Better or Worse for your application. Any Letter from "A" to "Z" could be next to the "S" or "C" Letter, the more Newer Classification will place a higher Letter there, as Follows: GASOLINE motor oils must read as Follows: SA = Early -older- motor Oils, Very Basic and without any Additive. (then the classification continued with: SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG,SH... etc...) SN = Very Recent Classification, includes a Complete Additive Package for Gasoline Engines under the APi Norm. DIESEL motor oils must read as Follows: CK = -or any other Letter instead the "K" like "F", etc.- (Could have a Number 2 or 4 Next to it) The CF or CF-4 are for regular Four Stroke Diesel engines. CF-2 (and other classifications bearing the "-2" symbol) are oils for especial Two Stroke Diesel engines. Beware of those Cheap oils, usually with unknown brand, due to their Lowest quality, in example this one, despite of being "Made in USA" is the worst thing to happen to any engine, besides of running out of oil: ► Important Note: if a DIESEL Motor Oil has, Besides its CK, CF, CG or CH Diesel oil APi classification, any "S" Classification (Such like "SN") , also you can pour them on Gasoline Engines; those kind of oils are commonly known as "Fleet Oils" ... in fact I've been using 15W~40 Fleet Oil from Chevron, the "Delo 400" since many years ago in many EFi cars, with excellent results, because those kind of oils has a very High value of Zinc, which is really needed to prevent wear, especially in older engines, while a Standard "Gasoline Only" motor oil, might comply with the same APi Class, but lacking the needed Zinc additive. But if the Diesel Motor Oil Doesn't have any "S" (such like SL or SH or SM) APi Classification, then Avoid pouring it onto ANY Gasoline engine, those are "Diesel-Only" motor oils. I Kindly Suggest you to Check ANY Motor oil to see if it has the Round Seal from the API ... as the above posted Examples. And the Proper SAE Grade inside that Seal's Circle. If you Pour a "Diesel Only" Oil in a Gasoline Engine, it could be somehow Harmful for the Gasoline Engine, due to the lack of the especific additives for this kind of engine; While the Diesel Oils which also carries the gasolinemotor oil Additives Pack included, (usually known as "Fleet" Oils) are Very Good and Outstanding Oils for Gasoline Engines, they also add "Zinc" to the Additive pack, that normally a "Gasoline-Only" motor oil, lack to have. On the Other Hand: if you Pour just "Gasoline only" Non-diesel motor oil on a Diesel engine, the Oil will be Blackened almost inmediately and will fail for Proper Lubrication and Protection of the Metallic Surfaces, Beside other malfunctions; because the Gasoline oil will absorb the Harmful particles that Diesel Combustion filter to the oil and it couldn't manage those, because Gasoline Motor Oils aren't intended for such contamination. The current Service category Rating for Gasoline engines (since 2012) for cars and light trucks, is “SN” The API SN rating is equivalent to the "GF-5" oil rating by the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee "ILSAC" the SN and GF-5 rated motor oils are backward compatible with previous categories' motor oils, and can be used in any older engines. For Diesel engines, The current category is "CK-4" (updated in 2017), while the older category was “CJ-4” (introduced in 2007 for diesel engines that have exhaust gas recirculation). The previous "CI-4" (2002), "CH-4" (1998) "CG-4" (1995) and "CF-4" (1990)categories, can be used in older four-stroke diesel engines. "CF-2" (1994) is the API classification for two-strokeDiesel engines. Part Three: Synthetic Motor Oils. Synthetic Motor Oil... It's a confusing topic, and there's a lot of Rhetoric, largely Because some Manufacturers and Peddlers of Synthetics have made a lot of inaccurate and self-serving claims over the years. Some, actually a lot, of this Rhetoric is pretty Strident and Opinionated. The problem that Most People encounter when switching a High Mileage car to Synthetic Oils, is due to the Detergents in the synthetic oil. The conventional oil "Gunk" accumulates Around the Gaskets and other Places, often times preventing leaks... The Synthetic oil begins to Remove this "Gunk" and things like Oil Pan Gaskets, Main Seals, and Valve Cover Gaskets, start to Leak oil. Now there are "High Mileage" Syntetic motor oils, so the Leakage problem could be, somehow, controlled ... ... But another thing to Consider is, Based on your Car's year model and type of cam / lifter configuration... a Roller Cam system works fine with Synthetic oil; However, with the removal of Zinc from Engine Oils over the last few years, many Flat Tappet Cams have been unhappy with this change. Most Synthetic oils Doesn't contain Enough Zinc and are Not additive friendly ... ... (that is the reason why I preffer Diesel + Gasoline -fleet- Motor Oils: They do have Zinc, as I stated above). Briefly, there are Two Types of "synthetic" Oils on the market. ► Group IV oils consist of Molecules that are synthesized from simpler chemical compounds. This lets the Chemical Engineers to "tune" the characteristics of a lubricant to exact specifications. These oils are "Fully Syntetic" and flows more Freely at extreme Low temperatures and don't Break Down at very High temperatures; also they generally can be specified one or two grades Lighter than a mineral oil, which consumes less energy and saves Fuel. (Energy Conserving Oils) ► Group III Oils are made from Reprocessed petroleum products normally left over after making Crude oil into Gasoline, Diesel fuel, Heating oil and other products... so they're "Half Syntetic" oils, or Syntetic Blends. They're more modestly priced and have many of the desirable characteristics of the higher-priced Spread. In much of the World outside the USA, Group III-based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic." Don't assume that if is a Synthetic Oil, it is so Good... (Read: very Expensive) ...that you don't need to Change it as often. The base lubricant may be way Better, but the Additive package... (which can be as Much as 25 percent of the Volume of the Product in a Bottle) ...can still Become Exhausted, especially if you drive on Dirty / Muddy \ Dusty enviroments, due to Oil Contamination. Also: Unburned Fuel, Partially Burned Hydrocarbons, Atmospheric Dirt, Metal Wear Particles and Blowby Carbon Particles will Build Up just as fast in a Synthetic-Lubricated engine as in one with petroleum-based oil ... ... The Only Way to Remove all that dirt & contamination is to Drain and Replace the oil. I've always recommended 3000-Mile oil Change intervals in offroading driving conditions, despite if you run Synthetic oil or not, and much more extended mileage for City Drivers. So, with that facts in Mind, To switch to Syntetic motor oils on older engines intended for the Average Driving needs, does Not make any sense; Those syntetic oils are Better for Newer engines... (with Closer tolerances and better PCV systems which keep their oils Cleaner) ...or when the Car is build for Race or Special purposses; but otherwise if you offroad frequently, or drive in dirty enviromants, you'll be Wasting a lot of Money unnecesary, because you'll need to Drain the Oil around each 3000 Miles to keep the Oil with proper Lubrication and the Engine internals safely clean. Part Four: Motor Oil Flush. Prior to change your old oil, if you want to switch from a mineral oil to a synthetic oil, I kindly Suggest to use a Motor Oil Flush Cleaner in high mileage engines, especially if you use your car for Offroading purposses or drive in very dirty enviroments. I use this from Motul on my BumbleBeast's Weberized EA82 engine, because I Drive it very Hard, 40% off-Roading (on weekends) and 60% in City Streets (is my Daily Driver), it keeps the tiny oil passages, especially those on the Hydraulic Lifters, very clean. It is Amazing how many Mud, sludge and Dirt those Cleaners could Remove from the Engine, especially if you has never used one and the engine has high mileage. You only need to pour a Bottle to the Old oil Just before changing it, and let the engine idle for ten Minutes... (Follow the Directions on the Motor Flush Bottle, it might vary on Different Brands)...then Flush the old Oil, change the old oil filter, pour fresh oil and Voilá! But I Kindly Suggest you to Not do such Detergent Flush frequently; if you do this cleansing too often, some seals could suffer a leak due to several reasons which includes: Attack from chemical agents and / or too much Gunk removed. If you Drain your engine's old Oil on a Regular Basis and use good quality oil, there shall not be needed a Chemical Motor Flush, in theory ... but every some years / high mileage isn't bad at all, and could aid to the engine's longevity while keepin' the internals and tiny oil passages / hydraulic lifters more clean. Part Five: Motor Oil Filters. ► Always respect the Part Number given by the Engine's Manufacturer, or use the proper equivalent filter, according to the oil Filter's manufacturer Book of cross references; but Never use an oil filter that is not listed to be used on your Engine, no matter if it has the same thread and pitch, or size; because other important things could be Different, such like the amount of pressure needed to activate their internal pressure relief valves, etc... ► Always chose from a good reputation manufacturer; oil filters made by unknown companies, could Fail, making catastrophic damages to your car's engine. It Never worths to save a penny, risking your Safety and the safety of your Family. Have you thought about that such a simple desision could left you Stranded in the Middle of Nowhere, with a Blown engine on your car? ► If you chose to use a Fully Sinthetic motor Oil that could last much Longer inside your Engine, than a regular -mineral- motor oil; Don't forget to also choose a Long Lasting Oil Filter, for synthetic motor Oils; otherwise, your Filter could fail earlier than when you wanted to change the Oil ... ... I Hope this Writeup will Help you to determine which motor oil is the best for your engine, because Motor oils Shall not be Choosen by Brand nor Marketing, but by the API Classification and SAE Grade considering the Specific Application where they're Needed and the temperatures where they shall work. You must choose between the specs given by the engine's manufacturer for Oil Viscosity, and also chose the Additive Pack that best fit your Engine's age & design, your Kind of Driving and the Climate of the World's area where you Live; so the Smart choice is always to choose the better motor oil to Achieve the proper Balance between flow, needed additive pack and usage, because a very Low Viscosity motor oil will help you to save Gas (Energy Conserving) also will Help in Cold Starts in Cold Climates, but will worn faster the engine's internals on Hot Climates than a High Viscosity motor oil; but if you go too High, the low flow pressure during cold starts on Cold Climates, plus the limited space due to tight tolerances / tiny passages on modern engines, will worn things faster too, and newer API Classifications, such like "SN" does Not carry enough Zinc to be safe on Older engines, such like the Subaru EA series of engines, in such case a "Fleet Oil" with enough Zinc is Highly recommended, es explained above. That is the Reason Why car makers put some different Oil Viscosity Numbers to choose from, on their User's Manual; the Lower Viscosity oils are suitable for Winter times or Cold Climates, while the Higher Viscosity Oils are suitable for Summer Times or Hot Climates. In example, these are Scans of my 1983 Subaru Owner's Manual: Here in this case, you can notice that the Lower Viscosity motor oil (5W~30) is Not recommended for Sustained High Speeds, nor for Turbo Engines; only for Severe Cold Winter times; the reason is that said SAE number is a lower viscosity oil which will not fight enough the shearing on Turbo engines, nor on conventional engines during Hot Climates, or sustained high speeds in this particular EA engines. However, Newer engines with closer tolerances usually "Needs" lower viscosity numbers and thus explain the need of SAE grades such like 0W~20 in example... If you pour higher viscosity number on those Newer engines, the oil will not Flow as intended, nor reach the pressure and areas where is needed, so pouring a High viscosity numbered oil could be Dangerous in certain cases. Always follow the Manufacturer's given numbers, and chose Wisely I Found an important Document which have a Professional Oil Test, done between some Different oil Brands and between Petroleum Based Oils and Synthetic Oils; they compare the Wear from Shearing on a metallic part after the Test, using each Brand of Oil with same procedures for all; it has Pictures, so you can Easily "See" which oil has the Worse (weak) protective cushion / Film Layer and which oil has Better (Stronger) Protective cushion / Film Layer, between metallic moving parts, so you can easily have a better idea. You can Download the Document, a .pdf File with less than 5 MB, Here: ~► http://www.mediafire.com/?lrm2am5vaxk2wob Finally, always follow the Owners manual's instructions, to do Properly the Oil & Filter Change, on your vehicle, Not like this: Don't do this! If you find useful information on my article, Please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button Kind Regards.
  7. Hi all! Recently my BumbleBeast developed a Weird noise, a Rattle Sound that was only noticeable at idle; So I checked it and I originally thought that it had Worn A/C Compressor's Ball Bearings... (as you can read ~► Here ) ...but the A/C kept working fine. So, I was about to install my Brand New SJR Lift kit for the front only... (as you can see ~► Here ) ...and I decided to Remove the Weberized EA82 engine from my BumbleBeast to check it carefully and make the lift install easier, also, I got Rid of the Timing Belts' Covers at all... (as you can Read ~► Here ) ...Because I thought that the Weird Noise source could be a Worn Timing Belt Tensioner's Ball Bearing. Then with the Engine out, I Discovered that the Source of the Weird noise was the Main Fan, the one attached to the Water Pump's Pulley, also known as "Mechanical" fan; so my BumbleBeast's A/C compressor is fine. A Little bit of Background History: The Fan clutch it had, failed around year 1993, so I decided to Fix the Fan by Drillin' a 1/4" Hole thru the Fan clutch and insert a 1/4" Twisted wire into that hole and Welded the wire to the Fan's Base. It worked good since then... but now, several years later; the Hole I Drilled on the Fan Clutch's area, became Wider and the Welded wire is Loose, also the Fan is Loose, so that thing is Ruined... I Need to obtain a New Fan for that, I'll Like to Keep the original fan setup, but here comes the Question: is there any Fan that fits the Pulley on my EA82 that comes without Fan Clutch? I Really need one, ASAP... Kind Regards.
  8. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Rebuilding Rusted / Damaged Body

    I own my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since new, in 1985, but this Writeup is Not regarding that wagon, This is regarding the other yellow wagon I had for short time, which originally was purchased as a "Parts Car" and then was turned onto my Subaru Loyale 2.7 Turbo Project. It lasted some years, it was fun, but the turbo was never attempted to be installed, although I had the EA82T pistons on a shelf... the Overheating and other issues demotivated me; and now that 2.7 Wagon is Dead, was in a huge frontal crash, you can read the whole story in the Following web link: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ However, I did a restoration to the Body of that 2.7 Wagon, and here I will share the step by step procedures that I followed, plenty of detailed photos, that I hope might be useful for you. First of all, the Previous owner of this Wagon had a Short Garage, so the Rear part was sticking outside, the caribbean rainy weather in Honduras had rusted parts of it that I had repaired in the Past. But Now, I Decided to first, Remove all the Paint and everything else to expose the bare Metal Sheet. inside and outside, I removed Everything! Surprise! ... I Discovered that the area around the Fuel Filler cap of the Car had a Minor Hit that Pushed one inch the Sheetmetal to the inside, and the Previous Owner, instead of Fixing that, covered the area with Bondo; and it was even Worse: There was Rust Hiding behind that! So I Used a Tool to Remove that Bondo:
  9. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    EA82 to ER27 Swap

    First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.
  10. Last Weekend I Went in one of my Usual Trips, but went alone... ...and during it, we Got a 7.3 Degrees EarthQuake in Honduras! ... ... EarthQuakes are very Rare in Honduras, my Country is the Only One in Central America without Volcanos, To know More about that EarthQuake, click Here: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_Honduras_earthquake Many Many Roads got Severly Damaged; some Broken areas, Missing Bridges, Flooded zones, etc... Believe me: it is Horrible to Drive while the Road Shakes ... ... especially at Very Late Night times while Feeling Sleepy ... I Usually Drive at Very Late Nights, That's Why I Have the 5,000K dual beam H.I.D. Lights. Let me share a Photo to show you how some of the Roads Ended after said Earthquake: This is a Picture I Took Some Days After, the Yellow Painted Line was the Center -Middle- of the Road; part of the lane disappeared, Also some roadside Houses Went Rolling Downhill, literaly: So, Right After the EarthQuake Shaked it All (Even my Butts, Seated on my Subie), I Decided to Still continue driving... I Was driving alone in an Old two-way Road Within the Woods, at Around 2:30 AM in the middle of a typical Caribbean Downpour Night when the EarthQuake Suddenly Happened ... then I Felt Scary Like I Was in the Middle of Nowhere with dancing trees all around, So I Choose to continue Driving -But pretty Slowly- my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" because I Was Nearby -Around 20 Miles- of my Destination town. Some few Miles After that, I Had to Cross thru a newly formed Pond that had a Hidden -Under Muddy Waters- Break / Stones at Some Point ... Both were New Obstacles (Pond & Pavement Break / stones) Due to the EarthQuake... I drove in first gear as slow as I could, but suddenly, my Subie Fell and had a solid Impact Sound under the Driver's Front Wheel ... ... I Know that Maybe it was a truly Stupid Idea to Continue Driving after such Earthquake, But I didn't wanted to get stranded in the middle of nowhere, within the woods. Then, when I was almost Reaching the Town, My Subie Totally Lost the Brakes! ... ... somehow I Was Able to Drive like That because no one else was on the streets, I drove very Slowly and Parked it Outside Home, with the tires Turned to the Sidewalk. So, the Very Next Day I Checked Everything ... I Don't Know How it Happened, but some of the e-Brake Parts at the Caliper of the Driver's side Wheel, got Damaged; the Small arm that activates the Piston on the caliper, where the Cable goes attached, was Bent; Also All the Brake Fluid was Coming from the Rear of the Caliper's Piston, so the e-Brake's Bolt-Like Pin got bent and had a ripped O-Ring. I Just Removed the Parts, Straighten the Bent pin and used a New O-Ring to Seal the Leak: It Works as Long as I Don't attach the e-Brake Cable there Again ... ... because I tried to re-attach it and if Someone Pulls the e-Brake Handle, Everything Works Fine but the O-Ring will Break and Leak Again for sure! ... ... So, the e-Brake is no longer Working anymore, I left disconnected both Cables to avoid brake fluid leaks. I am Really Tired of that e-Brake System which has gave me many headaches and Now, after the Hit, it seems to be Damaged beyond any repair ... it Always have Been considered by me as one of the Worst Parts of My Subie, along the Timing Belts and the Factory Rear Shock Absorbers. I started another Whole Thread, only for the Front Calipers' Swap Questions. It is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98476-help-please-direct-front-brakes-swap/ Kind Regards.
  11. I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those Rims in the Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for around a Couple of Hours... even we ate lunch Together. Resulted that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was selling in Japan since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of first Launch of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" Engine for that Model and the Very First Developments were going on that Way, With the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer. They Already got the EA81 that was 1.8L so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive and built to stay that way' the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo. So, the Japaneses Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was the new implementation of Timing Belts. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but that about the 2.0L EA engine was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and a awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the Lug Pattern, to fit "Standard" Rims on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.
  12. Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
  13. Well... it all Started one Weekend, my Dad took the Yellow Wagon to do a Short trip, and he stopped at a Gas station for some gas, then at its food mart for some snacks. While he was sat on the car, correctly Parked at the Food Mart, talkin' by Cellphone, someone drunk driver did side hit the front bumper very Fast... and this is the Result: The Damage wasn't much bigger, due to the fact that the bumper was already reinforced with Fiberglass and some added metal assist points, but the car moved around a feet horizontally with the side hit. Well... dad just got a li'l Head's hit, but he's Fine, O.K. Now ... but my Yellow Wagon's front Bumper was in very sad conditions... So, I went home (I work soo far away for now) to do the Repair, and I asked a friend who is a Good Fiberglass Artisan, to help me with such material. First, we took out the Front Bumper. This is a Detailed view of the Damage, includin' some Li'l twist on it's Metallic Base. Then, we started to remove out the old finish material and we Dissasembled it, Repairin' the Li'l Twist on its Base, and Reinforced it with more metallic assist points, a pair of `em did bypass the original plastic cover, The idea is to hold very firm that plastic cover to the Metallic base. We needed to cut down the Remainin' Reinforcement points... ...This is my Friend, doin' that. Then, We used sandpaper and covered it with the Fiberglass. Fiberglass comes like a Fiber Fabric, just cut the pieces you want, and then Spread all over it a Epoxy Compound, mixed with Hardener... Many coats of that Epoxy / Fiber, like you're makin' a Lasagna! Then, we used Sandpaper on the Already Dryed Fiberglass (untill Next day's Afternoon, to be Sure that was completely Cured) And Covered it with Flex. You can Notice a Li'l bit the Heads of the Metallic Assist points, and the Licence Plate's Screws, that comin' from behind the Bumper. This is how it ended lookin` at my Friend`s Repair Shop: (he did help me with fiberglass, I Prepared and Painted it) And Finally, This is the Results: My Yellow Wagon's Smile is Back! ... ... I Love it! The Bumper was Clean, while the Rest of the car was Dirty... But it Looks Soo Good! Well... I Hope this Idea could help those who want to Repair or Improve the Lookin' of their Car's Bumpers... Next to Do: a Hood Scoop... "the InterFooler" ...Comin' Soon! Kind Regards.
  14. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Wooden Stereo face plate

    Long time Ago I wanted to install a Stereo CD Player + Radio unit on both my Subaru Wagons, the ER27 (H6 2.7) and the EA82 ("BumbleBeast") and, since the Newer Stereo Units are Larger than the Old Ones, they'll come outside around one or two inches from the Dash, Also they will Stay Directly in front very near of the Shifter Knob, and that is a Problem, especially when shifting fast to third gear. So, I did This Idea: it is a Wooden Frame, Cutted in a 45º Angle to make the Look of a Original Mounting, in that Way, nobody notices the 2 inches elongation outside the dashboard. I Painted it to mate the Dashboard's Original Colour. And I did Cut Down the Shifter Too! ... ... Not only for the Looks, it has many advantages, like shorter shifting travels, but the main reason was to Avoid Hitting the Stereo Unit while doin' a "Fast & Furious" kind of Shifting, especially to Third Gear ... ... also to Avoid Hitting the Passenger's Knee ... ... I Was About to Finish a Drawing explaining the Wiring Diagram, because I changed the Stock plug and added a Custom Plug while separated the Speakers' ground (Newer units needs fully independent wires) but I Found that the wiring is already very Good Explained here, in this same section of the USMB by another member, so I only will tell you this tips: Don't forget the Shared Ground for Both Left Speakers, and the Other Side's Shared ground for both Right Speakers; you must rewire them to independent ground on each Speaker, in order to avoid problems with the built-in Amplifier. As far as I know, each Speaker comes wired independently from factory, but there is a place behind the Glove Box, on the Wiring Harness, where the Factory merged the Grounds for each side. You can track down the point and rewire the part from the New Stereo's Plug to the Wiring Harness. Kind Regards.
  15. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Idea to Re-Thread in Aluminium!

    My former White Wagon, the Weberized EA82, (now my "BumbleBeast") Was Leakin' Oil, but the Surprise is that it Wasn't from the Usual Places... it Was comin' from the Base of the Pipe Used to Pour Fresh Oil on the Engine, the one that Goes to one Head ... One of the Threads was Damaged, I don't know How ... Maybe it was Loose and Vibrations did damage it. How to Easy Fix a Damaged Thread on Aluminum in a Engine's Head? Well... I Started Removin' the Pipe. Here you can see the Oil and dirt that came from its Base And to Prevent Small Metallic debris from goin' inside the Head, I placed a Small Cloth very tight inside the Head's opening, and Covered it with many Masking Tape Layers. Then, I Drilled the Thread! ... ... Yes, I Drilled it! Originally it Was Like 1/4" ... I Drilled it to 3/8" Here you can See a Closer Perspective: Then, I Remake the Thread, but in 3/8" ... See: Here comes the Solution: I Drilled inside a 3/8" Bolt... ...And I made the Original 1/4" Thread inside the 3/8" Bolt! (Important Note: Don't Forget that Stock are Milimetric Measurements, I wrote Here the Equivalence on inches for easy Reference) Then, I Just Used Thread Locker, to Screw the 3/8" Bolt on the New 3/8" Thread on the Head, then I Removed the 3/8" Bolt's Head. (it was Pre-Cutted in each side, to make Easier Removal of the Head) Finally it Looks like this: And it Solved the Problem, Absolutely! I Hope this Ideas Could Help many People with Similar Problems, If you find this Useful, don't forget to let me Know By hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
  16. Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.