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  1. Hi! A few years ago my car was running even though it was off. I thought we took out the abs fuse but maybe I was wrong? Where the fuse was it was H/L Relay LH. Right when we took it out my ABS light was on? It has been so many years, we tried to find a replacement but couldn't find it. Am I going insane? Does a 95 have an abs fuse? I just wanna fix the light for my brother. I look online and it says its a head light fuse but all of my headlights work and in great shape, I'm so lost. Update I just found out my brother showed me the fuse box upside down over face time. IM looking for SBF no 7 fuse. Would that cause for abs like turning on? This is not the exact picture of my fuse box but its this on in the photo except I am missing SBF 7 and 6 http://allauto.biz/wp-content/uploads/mods/subaru-forester-2.0-mt--1993-26514-5.jpg
  2. Our 2007 Legacy Station Wagon (owned since january 2012) has recently started to give us intermittent rumbling sound/loss of power for 2-4 seconds only intermittently. It is not loud. On a 15 minute drive it may occur 2-6 times. It feels like maybe transmission/axle/all wheel drive related. (Computer or sensor related ?). Our mechanic, who we have had take excellent care of 9 different extended family vehicles over the last 15 years, is somewhat baffled but has experienced this issue himself on test drives. He just did replace the transmission oil in an attempt to resolve the problem and also looking for bits of metal at that time, but not found no bits of metal and said that the result often indicates that there is probably on transmission issue. We recently experienced a failing transmission on a 1996 Montero and the issue with the Legacy does not feel similar. The local Subaru dealer is a train wreck and dishonest. Our mechanic says he is getting no error codes (don't know if it is possible to check for diagnostic error codes for a long period of time during a test drive). I read one post on another site that seemed to be describing a similar issue and that 5 trips to the Subaru dealer yielded no error codes or resolution but that when the issue worsened, they happened to be near a Firestone dealer who immediately diagnosed a bad sensor, and they replaced the sensor and resolved the issue. Any ideas ? Thanks- Doug
  3. Hi All, My manual 2000 Subaru Legacy has recently started acting up while idling over the past two weeks. It idles at around 900-1000 rpm and intermittently shakes. The shaking has gradually become more frequent over the past weeks and the CEL came on about a week ago. Just today, it occasionally started idling at 2000 rpm and increasing the rpms (accelerating) without me pushing the gas (this was mostly happening while I was moving). My assumptions after some research is that it is either the MAF or MAP sensor. I sprayed down the MAF sensor with MAF spray to no avail. I visually checked for leaks in the hose and sprayed the hoses down with carburetor cleaner to check for hoses and did not see any leaks or hear the engine rev. I just had the CEL codes checked today, and it came up with P0304: cylinder 4 misfire and P0113: intake air temperature sensor 1, circuit high input. Would totally appreciate any help as I'd like to avoid another costly mechanic bill Thanks!
  4. Hello, I have a 2006 Legacy 2.5I Automatic When I am drive @ 65-75 MPH with Cruise Control on, and the car is between a hill and flat area, I can feel the car "accelerate" then "decelerating " more that I think it is suppose to. I run 93 octane fuel. Injectors were professionally cleaned and tested. New Plugs, Ignition Coil(Subaru), Ignition Wires (Subaru), Timing Belt New (Subaru) all new components (Subaru) The engine runs smooth. I just notice this when cruise is on going up a hill. Thoughts?
  5. First time forum post. Just bought my daughter a 2009 Forester (66K). Nice vehicle. Impulse buy as they seem to go fast here in Buffalo. Never owned a Subaru before but lI iike that they are AWD and that they have a good reputation -also seem to have good resale value. Great ride compared to Toyota Rav (4 cylinder) which was my other choice. I am impressed by the Subaru reputation so am advising my son to get a used Legacy. He has no money of course so I want to do a bit more research before he buys a Used 2008 Legacy 2.5L with 74K. I will get a full service report from dealer and am familiar with all the potential issues (head Gasket, Timing Belt, etc). I think having a mechanic throw it up on a lift will be a good idea as well. Any other advice? I think dealer is asking $8300. That seems reasonable based on KBB. Is there any other issues with that year I should be concerned with? I think I saw a recall for rusted break lines so will check that out-other than that, any other info would be appreciated.
  6. I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think?
  7. As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car. Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year: Engine: EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997). EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock). EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock). EJ253 water pump (2006). EJ222 block and head gaskets. EJ205 oil pump (detailed). EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor. EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller. EJ257 oil pan. EJ257 Moroso oil pickup. Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE). Tomei timing belt guide. VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs). Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts. All new seals and bolts. Self milled heads via sanding. Lightly ground intake ports. Refreshened and seated valves. 4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod). Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules). 1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets. EGR disable. Ignition: Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4. Body: 1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille. Lights: JDM RS front headlights with HID system. Sequential front turn signal lighting. Rear USDM w/VNT red paint. Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C). Electronics: WRX radio. Raizin voltage stabilizer. New Sony xPlod rear speakers. Interior: 1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood). Steering: 2004 STi steering rack. L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint. Rallitek steering rack poly bushings. How the car looks today.
  8. Okay folks, I wanted to get peoples opinion on a unique project I've been planning. I have a 92 subaru legacy wagon AWD with only 100k on the engine. No issues other than a messed up body from my brother and I doing dumb stuff. We're both mountain bikers and want a shuttle vehicle that can hold as many people and bikes as possible. (A shuttle vehicle is driven up and down a beat up road, bringing riders from the bottom of the trail to the top, loaded down with expensive bikes and people). Here's what we're thinking: Lift the car 5-8 inches for increased clearance, mount a hitch rack on the rear for a heavy duty bike rack, install rear-facing seats (a bench maybe?) in the back of the car by taking off the back door and cutting out the top rear section for head-clearance, and put bigger wheels on it with off-road tires. We also want to put on new suspension, something that can handle big potholes and a ridiculous amount of weight loaded at the back of the car (6-tray bike rack with DH bikes hanging off it). We want to be able to fit 8 people with their bikes. Now if you can tell from this post, I don't know a damn thing about cars. I'm a bike mechanic but that's a far cry from autos. So my question to you smarter folks is, what would you do to make all this happen, and how feasible is it for someone like myself to pull it off? Keep in mind, I don't care if the car drives on the highway and city like garbage. It's gonna look offensive, and I'll install speakers to blast Slayer inside and out. Maybe take the muffler off just because, and add a huge "Pop country sucks" sticker on the back. That kinda car. We want it too look as punk rock as possible. Thanks for the help, and have fun helping me ruin a perfectly good vehicle.
  9. I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues?
  10. My husband and I took my 02 Legacy wagon to a local Suby dealer to see what it needed to pass PA inspection. (It had passed when we first bought it used a couple of years ago, but we knew it'd need some work this time.) I was really bummed when the service writer told us that, in light of the CEL codes my husband reported reading, the engine is on its way out and it wouldn't even be worth their looking it over! My previous Suby, an '01 RS 2.5 which we bought new and had for about 14 years, had over 300K on it and was still running when we sold it. My Legacy just passed the 200K mark. My question: is there any way to know how long the engine will keep running, and is there anything we can do? It doesn't bode well when the Subie dealer doesn't even want to work on it. Not only do I love my Legacy, but we can't afford a new or even new-used car, right now! Here are the codes: 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 0172, 1137, 0457. Any advice would be most appreciated!
  11. Subaru specs synthetic oil for the above. The Subaru oil 0-20 is $7+/quart from the dealer, Is 0-20w Mobil One acceptable, or is there some additional Subaru specific requirements?
  12. Pretty self-explanatory title, I can't move the air flow from the mid/head level. I press the buttons and the lights change, but I don't hear anything inside and it stays where it is. Anything I can do easily to change this? I wanna be able to use my defrosters this winter. I have done some research and heard some possible issues could be a vacuum leak, blown fuse or an issue with the blender door or mode actuator.
  13. Hello All, I finally am getting around to telling the story of my daily, and laying out my plans for what I want to do with it in the future once daily duty is over. I am currently the proud owner of a 2002 Subaru (obviously) Legacy Outback Wagon Rocky Mountain Special Edition (I don't know what "Rocky Mountain Special Edition" is either don't worry). It has the base EJ251, and while it's a factory 5-speed car, it now has the 5-speed from a Bugeye WRX added by a long past owner. I'm not entirely sure what the rear diff is, one would assume it is WRX as well, but I have yet to check. As far as other mods go it's pretty tame for now, it has a polyurethane transmission mount that was put in when the original unit wore out, and my stepfather for what ever reason put on an exhaust from a Blobeye STi that has a sloppily welded cannon suck on the end and a dying catalytic converter. Everything else that has been done has been general maintenance, my stepfather did the head gaskets, timing belts and water pump when we first got it, I did the O2 sensors last year, and some more thorough suspension work the year before that (replaced both ball joints, and a new passenger side control arm and bushes). Everything else is fairly stock, stock wheels with Subaru recommended BFG's, stock interior with a new head unit, a body with some rust in the rockers and passenger side rear quarter, and its fair share of dents and scratches from daily driver duty for the last 15 years or so. This car was my family's gateway into the world of Subaru, my parents bought this car 5-6 years ago from a transmission shop for $1.5k, put a new clutch in it and tires on it. At the time they were going through bankruptcy, and needed something to drive while my stepfather was going back to work. It served as a daily for my stepfather for 4 years until they got back on their feet, and were able to trade up to something newer. He got himself a widebody Meaneye WRX hatch, and my mother got herself a later model Outback 3.6R. Rather than letting this car be wholesaled by a dealer, they kept it around and sent me off with it to college, which is what it has been doing for the last 2-3 years. It's currently sitting at 174k and change miles, and I absolutely have no intention of getting rid of it. My plans for it right now consist of making it the best daily it can be until I'm finished with school in another 2-3 year's time. Once I have the job and the time to do it, I very much intend to modify it. I'm leaning towards a rallycross/WRC offroader build with either a frankenengine, or just going the more expensive route and building an EJ257 from the ground up. Either way I will be bolting a 6 speeder to it, and uprating the suspension for high speed use and offroad duty. Expect more posts on this thread with updates, and posts from me asking questions as I'm still somewhat new to the intricacies of these cars. The last car I dailyed (and still have) was a '92 GMC so I have a ways to go and lots to learn before Im a Subaru pro. I hope y'all enjoyed my ramblings and this story. I look forward to posting more and reading more about these cars. -Ayy
  14. I'm trying to find out what is causing my tires and steering wheel to vibrate every time I turn the steering wheel. I replaced the power steering pump and the racking and pinion look fine (no leaks or other visible issues). I also replaced the fluid and bled the system but that did not help. Any help you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. Here is the video:
  15. I'm trying to replace my wood trim but can't find anywhere that has instructions to remove it. Can someone point me in the right direction. Please and thank you.
  16. Hi Everyone! Pictured here is my 1999 Legacy GT, Kitana. She has 215,000 miles on her and is in good shape overall. The problem is, the head gaskets are going out on the 2.5L engine. As I have found out, this is a common problem for this engine. I absolutely love this car, but cannot afford to pay to have the gaskets redone. It seems that my only option is to sell the car off to someone who would be able to fix it for themselves. My question is, how much should I ask for this car. I know it is worth more than junkyard price because of how good of shape the body and leather interior is. The tires are still all good on it as well. I am hoping that some of you fellow Subaru owners can give me some advice. Thank you! Steven http://email.thislife.com/wf/click?upn=Uz1sPKbFWt3SxRE53R7lA4xbRraX0B5IWCTg7hwGmz-2B7S5SWiH9JfnXITqfrokkRCimx-2FO2oIzPyIuVauVkySCTYiTV5GQwMZskOmsC0IPwLDz0k5MsRocU3RATiAYkk23zBhuRou9mvhlKi66KlJw-3D-3D_mSmPH8rKtKnNviZeKAYpz8QkLcVQFq5X787yjESllq4sL6cFWLJYwRNvZUjk39VdKgZzZ6EJDgUuThfgO-2Ftu1YEzxRy8avtn0ZK-2BtErszcE777uzDSuao5TBqiG9k-2BZ-2BPGPPGJUbJtnlRCWXKGbI0fV-2FftMPDbtDAuEBAnjFnRj2e-2F3x9am-2Bmx719uq60Dt6O9yQDqeC-2F0DG55VjRXeOi-2FtxriS6VqK-2BGy8dKD0zZV9-2FHBECKq7KReY3eJoFAtctdt5CDZZQDNnsHII5XOywtQ-3D-3D
  17. Hey, I noticed today when I was changing my factory heater hose out for new Subaru ones, that the factory put a small bead on the inlet to the heater core. Has anyone ever had these leak? Is it necessary to do this? If so, what sealer would you use? Thanks for your help or thoughts Mike
  18. Video going over issues: http://webm.land/media/8vlo.webm Started having issues a while ago with some fairly extreme shaking and surging while at idle (including cold starts). To try and resolve this I cleaned my throttle air intake, and got a new air filter. After cleaning the throttle air intake the engine ran what seemed to be perfectly normal for a day with none of the previous issues. I then replaced the air filter and had some issues return (though still improved from before). Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor trying to fix as well (no difference), and tried an idle relearn. Have visually checked for broken tubes and everything for a vacuum leak and didn't see anything. Starting cool the rpms go to about 1500 and it feels pretty stable. Switching gear drops the rpms to around 900-1100 and makes it pretty rough even if it goes back to park. Turning off AC/lights anything makes it feel smoother. Starting warm I get the same thing that happened before I cleaned the throttle (before I cleaned it this happened cool as well IIRC). On park it surges from 500-1000 consistently and surges but less so on drive/reverse. While driving it seems pretty stable and doesn't shake too bad except when stopping. However if I turn off and try to turn my car back on it sometimes fails to do so (starts after waiting 5 minutes or so though) (see failure video for example of this https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 ). For idle relearn I followed this http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/how-idle-re-learn-after-battery-disconnect-154161/ For the first 10 minutes of idleing it started at 1500 and slowly went down to around 700. (shaking more as it got around 700 but less around 1000) Second period of idleing was all around 700 shaking badly. Tried started car again right after and the car failed to start (was a hotter day) https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 The car did work well for a day period (90% sure of this) after cleaning the Throttle Intake so I'm pretty confused. Before cleaning the Throttle it shook really bad usually right when starting, but if not after driving for 30 seconds, worse then driving after 10 minutes as it is now. So that atleast helped somewhat. Any ideas of things I can check/try out? Have seen some stuff about the O2 sensor or cleaning the IACV but not really sure at this point. Any help would be most appreciated!
  19. So I bought a 2001 Legacy/outback (before they became separate body models, I believe) and it had a bad transmission. He sold me, with the car, a transmission. I have the engine out and was swapping the two transmissions when... the flex plate doesn't match the torque converter. 1) I haven't tried yet, but can I put the old torque converter on the new transmission (if it fits)? 2) Can I purchase the flex plate from a forester that would match the transmission I have? The transmission that I HAVE (the bad one) has a sticker that says tz1a3zs2aa-p4 The new one is tz1a3zc3aa-pm. I might have those backwards, I'm away from the shop right now. I'm not finding these in the lists of transaxles - and when I google it, the results are russian. Thoughts? for reference, when I bought it, the bad transaxle drove with a 'clunking' but not too bad. After a hard parallel park, it drove with a crazy heavy clunk back to the shop and was done.
  20. Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :)
  21. Right now, my 1991 Subaru Legacy L Wagon is just getting worse and worse mileage as time goes on. I want to assume it's because of the o2 sensor. It's approximately 18 to 20 in the best averages when I drive it like grandma. Other than that, the fuel gauge does not last long and I use 10 gallons before I know it. It used to get anywhere from 23 to 24. I'm in the money struggle enough as it is and this is just making things horrendously worse. I need some help asap if possible.
  22. Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you
  23. Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
  24. Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
  25. Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
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