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Showing results for tags 'Legacy'.
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Hi all, Recently had a 2006 subie Legacy 2.5 non-turbo come into the shop with a noise coming from the transmission. We looked at it, found that there was an issue internally and suggested the lady put in a used transmission. While I was doing the transmission I also did the driver's side motor mount (it was leaking bad) and a new flywheel and clutch kit (Sachs). But after I put it together and the lady picked it up she got towed back into the shop ~2-3 weeks later with a completely smoked clutch >500 miles on that clutch. Now, under warranty, I put in another clutch kit and another new flywheel after inspecting the master cylinder and the line plus reservoir. Everything worked flawlessly on the hydraulic system side. After I completed the clutch (now the 2nd time) I took it for a test drive ~5-7 miles and smelt clutch bad. As well as when traveling ~40 mph and checking the clutch with the old clutch in, rev it to 5k and drop the clutch to see how fast the rpm's snap back, the clutch was slipping bad. Again. Ok, ok, third time my manger (who ordered all the part from the beginning) called up the dealer, and asked which flywheel is supposed to go in this car. The parts guy said it was a single mass flywheel (which I had put in a dual mass because literally every listing my manger could find said it called for a dual mass). The parts guy from the dealership said the dual mass goes only in the turbo models... Hmm...ok On to the install of the third time, I again do all the work, put on the SINGLE mass fly wheel and me and my manager looked over the clutch + pressure plate and decided to reuse them as there were no noticeable issues with them and the fact that that clutch had 5 miles on it (my previous test drive). I finished the clutch and took it for the same test drive. The clutch is still slipping, maybe 20% better then the 2nd time. My manager called up the dealer, ordered the factory clutch kit and I'm going to be putting that, along with the factory fly wheel in on Thursday 3/3/16. TL;DR Installed a new (used) transmission with a new dual mass fly wheel + clutch kit. Clutch still slipped installed a new clutch kit and dual mass fly wheel a second time. Clutch still slipped. Installed the factory single mass fly wheel and reused the clutch kit from second install (had ~5 miles on it). Clutch still slips. Will be installing the same factory single mass fly wheel + the factory clutch kit on Thursday 3/3/16. Will the clutch suddenly not slip? My question is. Why is the clutch slipping so much? There is no excess pressure being applied by the master cylinder and we have the correct fly wheel in there now. And as a note, my shop uses Sachs clutch kits for a long time and very very rarely have issues. So is the OEM clutch kit going to magically make this not slip? What else is there that could cause this issue? Anyone have any ideas just for me to look over on Thursday? -
Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
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I recently purchased a brand new 2016 Legacy, and the moon roof leaks every time it rains. Water drips in at the back edge of the moon roof into a plastic tray that is supposedly part of the drainage system. I have had the moon roof replaced and the same issue still occurs. The dealership now says that the moon roof and drainage system are working as designed. I have a hard time believing that Subaru designed the moon roof to leak. However, the service manager at the dealership did show me another 2016 Legacy on the lot that had the same leak. I contacted Subaru regarding this issue and was told that they trust their service department's analysis of this issue. I am just baffled by this. Anyone else with a 2016 Legacy experiencing this issue? I would like Subaru to issue a recall to resolve this once and for all.
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit. -
Hey all, Recently I've been considering getting a hitch for my car, a 98 legacy outback. It may sound stupid, but I want one for the sole purpose of having a spare tire carrier on the back of the car (cause off-road, brah) so it doesn't need to be wired or haul anything more than a forester steelie. My only worry is, and I'm hoping someone has experience with this, are there hitches out there that don't require drilling, but does anyone know if those claims are true? I've only seen one or two of these cars with a hitch. Also, mine is a late build 98, so the charcoal canister is right on the rear frame like a 99. Would this interfere? Thanks! EDIT: and how trustworthy is UHAUL? I work in a shop and have seen more than one horrific, scary, poor quality, and downright dangerous trailer wiring job done by them, but can they just put a hitch on for me if it requires drilling or something? -
Hey all, just recently joined this forum. My name is Matt and i recently purchased a 2010 Legacy 2.5i Premium and i've slowly been molding it into a vehicle i'm proud to show off. With that said, my next priority is a new set of shoes and some coilovers to close that horrendous wheel well gap we have. I've been poking around online and my head is about to explode with all of the (mis)information and opinions regarding wheel/tire size for these cars. I'll make my question simple... I want to run 18" wheels, simple enough, but I can't seem to find a straight answer on what exactly will fit without major modification. If I go 18, what width and offset do I need to shoot for, and what tire dimensions would work best with said wheel (not interested in the stretched look)? And to answer the question if my suspension is or will be modified, yes, i'd like to go with coilovers and lower it an inch or two, so that should be taken into account. Suggestions welcome for brand/model as well. Thanks for any input you folks have! -
Hi, another 2000 subaru legacy/liberty problem. So far i have researched as much as i can about this problem but just want to firm up my understanding in this post. So the car has 145,000kms (90,000m) and has had full head gasket replacement along with timing belt ect ect. The new problem has occurred probably two years following this which started with the engine light flashing on during start up or whilst driving with limited power and significant lag between pushing the pedal. The light would then go off and the car would function normally. I have been meaning to take the car in for service when today the car would jolt into the gears and not change during the same rpm that it usually does. I am pretty freaked out by the whole thing and want to confirm a few things before rushing and replacing the transmission which seems to be the consensus on these forums. Initially i thought the O2 sensor could be the blame for the engine light and power lag problem if anyone could shed some light on this that would be great. So my first question would be do i pursue the Trans X method and try that along with flushing the fluid and replacing. The car has had the delay between reverse and drive issue but the delay was less than one second and has never really been a concern. Any advice is welcome, thank you in advance. -
1991 Subaru Legacy was sitting for 2-3 weeks and would not start. I got the battery jumped and it started and I was just going to drive straight to the shop, but when I got to the end of the road the car shut off and would not start again. Also prior to it sitting for 2-3 weeks it would start when I left from my residence, but if I drove it somewhere else and tried to start it again then it would not start. I have the following details: $1,500 worth of work done on it in 2015 including O2 sensor, ECM, fuel pump replacement, and new battery. The battery should still be under warranty. The car has an after market digital CD/cassette player, so I m not sure if that draws more energy than the car can handle. Also until recently one of the doors would not close completely and a little red light would be on constantly to indicate that the door was not closed. I m not sure if this light could have slowly been draining the battery/alternator or if this is even an issue. My question is based on the vehicle starting but not staying started, is this likely a problem with the alternator? Do I need a new one or could the current one be repaired? Cost estimate? I will have to get it towed to the shop because obviously it can t be driven in its current state, but I would just like to have an idea of what may be wrong and what would be the cheapest route since I have already spent so much money on the vehicle.
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Hi, My son has a 2000 Subaru Legacy. The fan stopped working on his heather. He replaced the fan with a new one, but it still didn't work. We returned that, just in case it was bad, and got a second one. It didn't work either. We also checked all the fuses and they seem to be fine. With a power meter we confirmed that when you turn the fan switch up, power is getting through the wires to the plug that goes in the fan. Still doesn't work, though. Any ideas? Let me know if you need more information. I can't figure out what to try next. Thanks. Steve -
I'd like to thank eveyone that helped me pick out a good replacement for my 2001 Legacy. This 2010 Outback will do my family well for years (hopefully) to come. She's pretty!
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I recently purchased a 2015 Subaru Legacy with 7,000 miles and driven by a sales manager at the dealership. I have driven the car about 2,800 miles (about 1/2 highway and 1/2 local) and am not getting anywhere near the stated mileage. My commute for work is about 2 miles each way and is not stop and go (I go about 25 to 45 miles per hour on a main road). Highway, I keep it between 65 and 72 mph. My city MPG is about 18 to 22 and my highway is between 25 and 28. Advertised mileage is 26 mpg city and 36 highway. I'm just not getting anywhere close to this. Has anyone else experienced these issues? I have the car currently into the dealership, but they don't seem too interested in looking for any problems since there is no check engine light on. -
I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets. -
Hey everyone, I posted about my 1995 Legacy L sedan a few weeks back, but here's a refresher. My 95 legacy was in an accident that damaged the front bumper. So I decided to turn it into my project/winter car. So after searching online awhile about how to lift it, I decided to slap some struts from a 1997 OB and got a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers that attach to the upper strut mount. After doing the front, everything fit perfectly. And I was happy with the results. Only one minor thing, I have quite a bit of positive camber on my fronts. I tried adjusting the camber bolts to even it back out. But to no avail. I know I need to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment done professionally. It's lifted about 2.5-3" now, and I'm just humbly wondering if anyone has run into this, or knows how to fix it. Before taking to a shop. Thanks everyone for your time! -
So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all. -
I have taken my crank shaft pulley off and know I need to get a new one. I am wondering if I am going to have to replace this other piece that the crank shaft fits onto though. I know I need a Woodruff key for it as well but will buying a new pulley and a woodruff key and putting it on fix my car. Or do I need to fix this other piece inside here?
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Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
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Hello, I have a 97 Legacy Wagon that they harmonic balancer has become loose on. It will no longer keep the belts on for power steering and alternator. So therefore I can not drive it to work. I think the bolt is not just loose and assume it is a bigger issue. What could be the problem? And will buying a replacing just the pulley fix this issue? Thanks for the help.
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I have a 2014 Subaru legacy and I love it, but id like to get some more power out of it. I have a very limited knowledge of upgrading cars, but from what I've researched and been told I think the best way to achieve the 350-400hp I'm looking for (and staying under $4-8k) is keeping the current engine and rebuilding it with forged pistons, turboing the engine and swapping the transmission. I've also been told I might need a new intercooler as well, but I haven't gotten any professional advice yet. Does this sound like a terrible idea? And what do you think the cheapest/best way to get more power in my legacy would be? Would really appreciate any advice!
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anyone know what the two blank spots on the LHS of the steering wheel are for on a 99 legacy wagon? the blank spot closest to the steering wheel actually has a thing right there for something to plug into, while the blank spot closest the door is strait empty. i wanna know what is supposed to plug into that piece. thanks! -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition.
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Hi Starting this project thread to show my progress in making my Legacy -94/95 more suitable for the winter forest roads. This will be a long time project that starts with fixing the breaks. I hope I will be up and runing with this project later this week. /slugg -
So there is a recent ticking noise coming from under car whenever i let off of the gas. As soon as i give it the slightest amount of throttle, the noise stops, but right when i let off the gas the ticking noise returns. Especially when in lower gears. It may have something to do with going over small rocks and hitting under neath while driving in the hills, but i have no clue what the noise could be. I heard that it could be the heat shield, but i removed most of it earlier due to annoying rattle noise. Noise does not occur when just parked in neutral. Please help! Thanks, Austin -
Hi everyone I had a Legacy engine fitted in my 1972 VW Bay Campervan 2 years ago by Andy Raw at TSR. A fantastic replacement that has transformed the performance and reliability of my camper - 2 European trips to France, over the Alps then down into Italy. I am awestruck by the power and reliability of the engine. I have fitted a Subaru heater blower in the front, but because the heater matrix is higher than the header/overflow tank, I can't vent the system - so there is no heat in the matrix. I have fitted a return bypass loop as I know that the engine relies on this. There is great heat racing round the pipes and the bypass loop, but no further. If I shut the bypass loop, the hot water stops flowing. I've tried adding a 12 volt pump to get the water through the matrix but with no luck so far. HAs anyone overcome this airlock before? -
Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt -
How hard would it be to swap the hubs from a 91 legacy onto a 88 gl? Any input would be greatly appreciated. If this is or already had been discussed somewhere can someone please put a link in this thread.
