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Showing results for tags 'Legacy'.
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So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual -
I am getting pretty surprised by how many high milage ej22's I'm seeing. When my 06 WRX just passed 100k and my dads 96 legacy outback that had almost 270k was running better than mine, i started wondering what was going on with these engines! How many miles do you guys have on your EJ22's? Super curious! -
So i have been looking into legacy turbos for a while and came across thishttps://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/6031023876.html Obviously this price is way to high considering the miles. But what does everyone here think? The timing belt , water pump, and pulleys were changed 40k ago. He said the headgaskets have not been done yet. Anyone have any experience with high mileage legacy turbos? Any advice or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello, I read a article from a builder that recommended using a water pump that cooled better because the fins were more closed off than most that you see. He said that with the Closed Fin style, the cooled was forced into a more narrow patch/direction, versus the open style with allows the coolant to kind of cavitate and stay stagnant. Do they make a Closed Style for the 60 Legacy 2.5i non turbo? Thoughts? See Images below -
Hi, My 1990 american legacy wagon I've just bought has an over heating problem. It drives fine and the coolant temp stays slightly below the centre of the gage on all flat and downhill roads no matter how much you thrash it. It's only when I drive up a hill that it slowly starts to overheat. If I pull over and let it idle it will go back to the normal operating temp in less than a minute, as soon as I start driving up hill again it starts to overheat. It doesn't seem to matter how much I accelerate, it seems like the only thing that makes it heat up is going on the up hill slope. Does anyone have any clue what could cause this? Thanks -
Hello, I hope that this is the proper part of the forum to ask this question. If not, please point me in the correct area I need to do this. I was considering ordering one of these OBDII testers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-Diagnostic-Scanner-Tool-SRS-ABS-CHECK-ENGINE-LIGHT-OBD2-CODE-READER-SCAN-/171876308696 Do they really work? Do they cause any harm to the factory software? Thanks for any help you can give.
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Hello, Well this is my first post on this site. I purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5 and few days ago with 98,000 miles on it. It needs a new a new battery (old one has a date sticker on it of (Nov 2012) When I take it out I don't want it to have to relearn, and loose things like radio setting, etc. I recently purchased a Schumacher DSR Pro Series Model INC-7A-OBD memory saver. http://www.batterychargers.com/inc-7a-obd/ I was wondering if this WILL or WILL NOT hurt my system? Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
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Car shudders when coming to a hard brake and then stalls. From what I have found online, it's a known issue with 2010, 11, and 12 Legacy. I took it to the dealership and they say it is a blockage in the torque converter and that it and the transmission need to be replaced - $7500. From posts I have seen online elsewhere, most have replaced the converter ONLY for $1500. Anyone have any experience with this? And can one tell me as to why if both are replaced the cost is so high? -
96 Legacy L 2.2 Auto. I have already done: Wrx 16" wheels, Legacy GT brakes, 205/50/16 Direzza zii star spec, KYB struts & mounts, H&R springs, Ralitek F&R swaybars, STI seats, JDM projectors FX-R 3.0 bixenons with Nightbreaker unlimiteds for high beam and D2S-theseheadlightskickass!, Replaced entire A/C system this spring, 180 amp DC Power Engineering Alternator, Paint is Audi nimbus grey. This car handles like a go kart. I lost reverse. I tried filter and fluid to no avail. I am not spending another dime on this car as long as it has that anemic 2.2. Now I must decide on a drivetrain swap. Has to be automatic. My goal is to have a quick, responsive car that is a blast to drive. Budget $2000. I'm not concerned with labor. This pic was taken prior to some upgrades
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I recently bought a 1995 subaru legacy with about 180k miles on it. I knew when I bought it that it had an issue with the oil pressure guage, which I fixed. After that, it ran well for a few weeks. Then a few days ago I took it less than a mile to the store, and it drove great on the way there. When I tried to leave, the car died while backing out. It would start again, but die seconds later. I went and reset the wiring to the spark plugs and got it to run enough to get home. Now, if I start it and let it idle the at temp light flashes 16 times then the car dies. It always starts again on the first crank, then dies again. If I push the gas pedal at idle, it takes a bit longer before it dies. It dies almost immediately when trying to back out of a spot. I know the very basics about cars, but I am well versed using tools and multimeter in other situations, I just need to be pointed at where to start trying to diagnose this issue. Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance! -
Hey all, so I would just really like some opinions and insight from people such as yourselves that have much more knowledge about these cars than I do. So I have been looking and doing research for quite some time now on the next Subaru for me. I have ruled it down to the 07-09 Legacy's, due to personal preference on styling and looks as well as available options. I have recently come across two opportunities to purchase a 2008 model, however I can not decide which would be the best option. The first one is a LTD model with 220k on it with many new parts and services done for $8995. I went and test drove this one, and it ran strong aside from some delay in the auto transmission when you step on the pedal, however some amount of delay is to be expected, I'm not sure how apparent or common it is for this vehicle. You can see it here, with all the parts and services below the pictures: http://roosales.com/2008-legacy-ltd-sedan-coming-soon-2/ The second one is a GT model with 90k on it for $10995 that you can see here: http://www.apxautobrokers.com/2008_Subaru_Legacy_Lynnwood_WA_7447565.veh Now if this was anything besides a Subaru, the obvious choice would be the one with 90k miles because why buy a car with so many miles when there is another option with fewer miles for only a small amount more. However, due to the fact that Subaru's are known to last basically forever as long as you take care of them, I find myself having a difficult time making a choice. Another reason that I am at a bit of a crossroads, is that I have heard of turbochargers failing on Subaru's before, which costs a lot of money to repair. Is this a common issue with the 2008 Legacy's? Or is it more of just a myth? I would just really like some opinions and insight from people such as yourselves that have much more knowledge about these cars than I do. Thank you for your time! -
Hell folks, long time lurker first time poster. Having a heck of a bad week with my much loved outback (2004, 2.5l, Canadian). To keep things clear I will stat at the beginning... Just before Christmas, the wagon all of a sudden started to stall in neutral, or when I would press the clutch, this seemed to happen randomly when the car was warmed up. The problem went away for about ten days, only to reappear with a vengeance. (Check engine also appeared) so we bit the bullet and took it to a local garage. They said that there were misfire codes and changed the plugs/wires/coils, later in the day they called back and informed me that the problem was still there and that everything associated with the intake was heavily carbonized. So they did and injector cleaning,and cleaned all of the sensors. After that the problem was still present, they said the egr valve was too carbonized and beyond cleaning. I retrieved the car from them, deciding to find a replacement egr on my own. After removing and cleaning the egr myself (10 min job, was nice and springy after) the car seemed to work perfectly, leading me to believe we had been fleeced... The next day, leaving the city, everything was fine, until the car warmed up. Now my problem is: around 1-2000 rpm the car kicks and bucks like crazy, once past 2000 rpm the car works fine but a little jerky when giving gas, i re-cleaned the egr thinking maybe it needed further cleaning. After testing the car again today, same problem, after the engine is good and warm, it struggles and bucks when driving around in first and second gear till you are past 2000 rpm. After getting a big bill from a garage that didn't fix my problem I am dreading dropping more money at this than I have to. Anyone else have any similar experiences? Or can help me figure out what is going on? Thx in advance -
Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible? -
Hey Everyone. I have thought a lot lately about potentially downgrading my car (significantly). Currently have a 06 wrx which is great, but oh my goodness does it requires a lot of attention. I talked to a subaru mechanic about older models and he steered me away from models like the old GL's and Loyales simply because their parts are getting harder to find. He did say that the Subaru Legacy L's are really fine cars. Anyone have any experience with these? Obviously i am aware that buying a older high mileage car has it's risks but i am really just looking for something that doesnt have to be pretty, it just has to be really reliable. Any input or experience with this would be greatly appreciated. Also this would be a colorado commuter car so it's going to get beat on a bit if i buy it.
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I bought my wagon this past summer and I'm not quite sure what i want to do with it. I have a 1995 Legacy L Outback wagon with the Ej22. I have about 259k in it,but i've driven across the country and it keeps going. I did my first mod yesterday and bought some WRX seats from an 03 Impreza I think this will be the first of many upgrades to come, also a question on the compatibility with the Automatic transmission from a 96 outback onto my 95 ?
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I am nearly at my wit's end with my '09. 2.5i non-turbo. I bought it in January 2016 with 203,000 on it (All highway, original owner, full maint log, good shape, ran great). Noticed it had a significant oil leak from both heads (head gaskets, external oil leak) Pulled motor this fall, resurfaced both block and head with the manual block-sanding method, installed new gaskets, torqued as per specification, reinstalled motor. Noted oil on plug wires, replaced valve cover gaskets and got cheap auto-parts store wires* (we'll come back to this shortly), installed new NGK iridium plugs. Reset valve clearance to stock (was slightly loose by a few thou on most valves) Shortly after getting it back together it got a flashing MIL on hard acceleration (misfire codes on cyls 1 and 2 (P0301, P0302)). Didn't really feel the misfire however, it is very faint and only noticable under full throttle, light throttle to redline and you can't feel it, sometimes the mil will flash on part throttle pulls, but will ALWAYS on full throttle pulls.then the light goes out, only comes back if I push it over 4000 and over 1/2 throttle, enough of these will result in it staying on and getting the flashing cruise control (perm codes set) Figure well the coil is probably ancient, I just changed the wires, with the HG job, so lets replace the coil. NO CHANGE So I tried a new set of plugs (NGK iridiums) NO CHANGE So at this time I'm figuring that the ignition system is completely replaced (with the exception of the main ECU), I turn to fuel. clean out MAF (non-chlorinated brake cleaner + compressed air) NO CHANGE This one has an in-tank filter instead of the nice easy to replace one of the pre '05 models, so it was cheaper to get a junkyard pull full pump assembly instead of the fuel filter itself, so I got a pull from a car with 78k miles and install it, NO CHANGE So I figure, maybe the one I got has a clogged filter, so I rig up rube goldberg fuel pressure gauge I can watch while driving, 52 PSI all the time, even at full throttle pulls when the MIL flashes the misfire blues.. so it's not the pump or plumbing up to the engine. Googling seems to indicate a remote possibility of the timing belt being off by one tooth, so I drop the coolant, pull the radiator, and pop off the covers and double check, nope it's SPOT ON, and the tensioner is fine (not leaking) So googling some more seems to indicate all but OEM or NGK plug wires are garbage, so I order a NGK FX-101 set and install them (fits great), NO CHANGE Running out of things to replace. Only thing I can think is left is a possibly burnt valve, or a bad pair of injectors (that are flowing less than they should) Using my OBD-II tool (Obdlink-SX and OBDwiz) shows the misfire counts are highest on cylinder number 1, and about 1/4-1/6th as many on cylinder two, never any on cylinder 3 or 4. Was going to swap the 1&2 injectors to the 3&4 position next to see if the problem follows it.. Anyone else have any suggestions? I don't have a leakdown tool, but I'm sure amazon does, though the engine cranks evenly, so if it was down on compression it would typically be noticeable during cranking from the weak cylinder.. -- frustrated.... I really miss my '98 OBW with the 2.5 NA quad-cam -
Hello all, I've had a power steering leak in my '01 Legacy base model sedan for about a month. I have to put ATF into the reservoir every 3-4 days. I can't see any leaks from the pump when the engine is running. I have put the car up on ramps and watched from underneath, also can't see any active leaks. The fluid seems to be accumulating at the middle of the steering rack, where there's a small plate that mounts with four bolts and connects the engine subframe and another structural member. Took the plate out. Still can't see the leak. Any thoughts or suggestions? Steering seems to be OK when the fluid level is full, but there's an occasional grinding feeling in the steering wheel when returning from lock to center -- air bubbles in the system? Thanks in advance for any help. Jeff in Boston -
Me and my girlfriend just recently purchased her a 1999 Subaru Legacy Brighton wagon and did all the first car maintainence on it. We figured out how to lock and unlock all the doors etc. but we have had a big issue with the hatch lock. Whenever we attempt to enter the key into the key slot, it only goes in about half way. From there I can lock and unlock the car with a bit of difficulty. The other day I attempted to lock it when the key broke in half... I was wondering if Either A. I was suppose to receive a trunk key, B. There is some sort of trick to unlocking and locking it, or C. The lock is faulty. Thanks so much -Craig -
I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin -
Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
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I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy outback limited and today while turning the vehicle off, as per the norm I shifted to P and turned the car off, the key turned from ON to almost at LOCK and won't turn all the way to LOCK to release the key, I can turn back to ACC, ON and START, but It won't turn to LOCK to release the key. The shifter is able to go through all the gears without having to press the brake pedal, whether the car is on or off. I'm at a loss, can't figure out if it's an electrical or mechanical issue, the tumbler or the shift lock on the shifter. If anyone has come across the same issue any help would be appreciated, i just don't want to start throwing parts at it, thanks. -
USMB members, Hi, I am new on this Subaru forum and I was crazy for it... my location is South Florida and I would like if any of the members know a tuning/performance shop from Hollywood to Kendall, Florida. These are the upgrades I would like to do to my '13 Subaru Legacy 3.6R Limited. - Performance Exhaust - Performance Chip (If there is any) - 18 Inches wheels - Perhaps change the turbos and headers. Some of the upgrades that I already did to my car: - Update head and Fog lights from OEM to LED (See pics) - Aluminum Pedals (See Pic) - Turn Signals (Front and Back) from OEM to LED - Interior and doors lights from OEM to LED - Replaced Air filter for a K&N filter. Near future, projects or upgrades - Trunk carbon fiber spoiler - 18 inch Wheels with bigger and wider tires - front and rear performance brakes discs and pads So to all of you Subaru enthusiasts, I am reaching out to all of you to direct me to where, here in south Florida to make my dreams come true. In advance, thank you for any information provide. Sincerely Balazzo556
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(I'm a forum newbie and a newbie auto mechanic - I just retired and don't need to pay our mechanic to fix the car immediately so I can go to work - so I'm trying to learn to do what I can. I'm handy and resourceful, just never applied it much to cars since my 1965 Dodge Dart! This is my first experience with EFI and OBDII.) 1995 Legacy wagon L, EJ22; no EGR; 5-speed manual; ~243K Have owned since ~49K and done oil/fluids maintenance myself. We live in PA, so we have annual inspections. All repair work has been done by pros and, I think, by pretty good and reliable ones. We've tried to hit the maintenance milestones per Subaru and my trusty Haynes manual. The car has been very reliable until: - driving to the local store and experienced rough idle and running - another local trip and it stalled - engine just quit - started up without problem and got me home - would start easily but would not idle without goosing gas - had it towed to shop; they said it needed a new MAF, new plugs and wires, and had an exhaust leak I replaced the MAF with a unit from NAPA and was able to drive it home from the shop. At home: - I replaced the plugs and wires. Our records show they had not been done since 150K - I replaced the PCV valve - The donut gasket at the joint from the second cat to the pipe to the muffler was bad, so I replaced that and the 2 spring bolts. Still had intermittent idling and running problems. When it ran well, it ran great - better than before. After consulting several Youtube sources, bought a SCAN tool and a vacuum gauge. With Autel AL519 SCAN tool: - O2 sensors indicate that downstream sensor is jumping around instead of maintaining a small range around .5 volt. I understand this suggests that catalytic converter/s is/are not doing its/their job ) (have 2 inline). - Shows PIDs P0100 and P0101. I did not reset these because I suspect the MAF is affected by an exhaust restriction - As near as I can tell (limited experience) most other live data looks pretty good. With the vacuum gauge connected post-intake: - Idles around 650-700 RPM (before stalling) and draws ~17-18 Hg - At 2500 RPM, drops to 8-10 Hg - I understand this suggests an exhaust restriction Assuming the exhaust restriction is downstream of the engine internals, my plan is to disconnect components starting at the muffler and work my way upstream until the restriction is eliminated. I have already disconnected the pipe to the muffler at the donut gasket that connects to the second catalytic converter. The vacuum backup is unchanged. I need to buy or borrow tools to work upstream from there. A buddy says I can remove an O2 sensor from each catalytic coverter to see which cat is the problem (assuming both are not bad). Question 1 - I'm thinking it's probably a bad/clogged catalytic converter - and maybe the root cause for that problem is that we didn't change plugs for nearly 100K. What say ye of the collective wisdom to these assertions? Question 2 - If testing shows that only cat 1 or cat 2 is bad, should I still replace both? Question 3 - Am I missing something here or overlooking something else I should investigate? Question 4 - Is this all worth the trouble? I would like to keep this around as a utility vehicle. We live on 8 hilly acres and it's kinda nice to have 4WD to haul a little firewood, or the kayak, or the bikes, or to hook up a trailer to go get stuff from Lowes or mulch or whatever. I'd like to feel confident to drive it across the country, but I'll take just a few more years of local duty until we absolutely need to replace it. So, Question 4B - what signs should I look for that it may be time to abandon it and find someone who just can't resist another EJ22? Thanks so much for any thoughts, suggestions, insight! -Paul -
Hello everyone! I am currently in the market for a new car. I have always admired Subaru's and the brand as a whole and have come to the conclusion that I would love to own one and join this great community. Right now the two Subaru models I'm most interested in are the 2006-2008 Subaru Forester XT and the 2006-2008 Subaru Legacy GT's. I think both cars look great and I'm sure either would make me extremely happy. However, I was wondering if any of you veterans who may have owned/been around these two models could give me any buying advice, and maybe give me you take on why you would take one over the other. Thanks for any help you can give me!
