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Showing results for tags 'Loyale'.
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This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated
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so I would like to buy a '91 loyale i saw on craigslist, and I came across this forum while doing some research and you seem like the community to ask about this stuff! for starters I'd want to lift it, most likely 2" and get some bigger tires on there possibly 27"? any advice for lifting it? is there a good kit I can buy anywhere? on the other hand, I know people have built their own and I was wondering if anyone who has could tell me about their experience doing so? what about finding a good roof basket? any advice? the only work I've done on cars so far was alongside my father and it was mostly just simple replacements for my pos starter car when I was 16, so I'm really pretty much a novice to this and if anyone has any advice at all on what I can do to improve the loyale to more of an off-road status, I would love to hear it! -
Hello - I just bought a beater 86 DL wagon with so much friable plastic it's kind of silly. I have a possible line on a parts car, but it's a 91 Loyale. Does anyone know what can be swapped right over w/o too much trouble? I've been looking at this thread on this forum, and it seems like I should be able to switch out, say, the door panels (or entire doors?) but the thread is comparing an 87 GL with the Loyale. Does everything still apply to my 86? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131244-dumb-question-loyale-vs-gl-wagons/ Thanks!
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So I'm putting the engine in my 1991 loyale back together because some clutz took it apart. It's almost complete but I'm at a loss on what goes here by the alternator by the plug hanging beside it. Any help?
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okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance
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I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
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I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
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Hello fellow Soobers, thanks for reading. A couple weeks ago, the belt on the driver's side went, so I towed it home and swapped it out. (Cursing my air conditioner the entire time.) Bought the kit and replaced both belts and pulleys provided. I had help from an old timer with Soobs, and followed Milesfox's video on timing belts which was extremely helpful. It started right up and ran like a champ. The following week, however, it started to have a very hard time starting. Now it won't start. It tries, but won't turn over. Everything still lines up as it should, and the belts are still tight. I have since just started replacing things that have been an issue on other similar threads on this wonderful site, but realizing now that I am wasting my money fixing things that aren't broken. I have replaced the ignition coil, pcv valve, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires. I believe its a fuel problem. How to Keep Your Subaru Alive is a great book that helps, except for EFI topics.... Any leads would be very appreciative, thank you for your time. -
I have a 94 loyale and I've been looking for bigger alterain tires or 15 wheels to fit the ones I have but I can't find anything. How do other people get bigger wheels and tires that fit? -
having serious regrets about messing around w/ my Loyale, "Joan Crawlins" after i finally had her in the best shape she's been in since i got her last Winter in Penn. everything was great as stock, but then i put in a 2" inch lift to gain clearance over sand in btwn the tracks on a rutted out access road to the beach. that messed up the camber of the front wheels something awful (pics here: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs) and after tracking down some 15" alloy pugs in a junkyard in Pennsylvania and ordering lugs from Dan in Sacramento, i thought that would help the camber issue, but it didn't solve nearly enough for daily driving. so pulled the lift kit out, but kept the pugs on and had to cut a bunch of the wells out cause i was getting lots of rubbing since my suspension was in bad shape. put in new struts in the front which helped, gonna put in struts in the back in the next couple days, but having no luck finding coils for the front. CAN I USE COILS FOR ANOTHER SUBARU that are easily available? like a legacy? if so, what should i get? also, now my camber is ok in the front, i'm getting positive camber in the back, which i can only guess was as a result of putting in and taking out the lift in the back. once i put in new struts in the back and hopefully coils in the front, and then get everything aligned professionally, will my camber issues be solved, theoretically? just ruing my decision to have changed anything at this point, but all's not lost by along shot and if i can get the suspension finished and the alignment solves the camber, i'll be happy to have the Pugs on rather than the stock 13"s. here's a look at where i'm at now: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues @175eya @CoyotePaws @Mechanical_Misfit thanks for the help folks, as always, i'm eternally grateful for the advice and support. -Glen
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Hey guys (gals) I recently replaced my timing belts, tensioners etc. Everything was working fine until a couple weeks ago. The left hand side belt it sliding towards the engine. I replaced a tensioner and realigned the belt a few times and it just jumps back. Any idea's please ? I'm at a loss. Just tried to upload pictures. My files are too large and not sure how to reduce the file size. The timing belt started to cut into the plastic cover behind the cam wheel. It's maybe a 1mm or so over the edge and I don't think it's safe to drive.
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Hi All, I've got a 1986 GL Wagon that desperately needs a new transmission (1.8 AWD, 3 speed Automatic). I can't quite afford a rebuild at this point, so I'm looking for used. I'm not sure where to look or who to trust when looking for one - the internet seems full of parts... can anyone point me in the right direction? (note: My mechanic looked for one, but told me his connections were unable to warranty one or were unwilling to ship to NY). Thanks for any advice!
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SO I have been working to get my 91 4wd pushbutton MT loyale up to 100% mechanically.... or as close as I can. I get a grinding noise somewhere in the rear half when I get down a little more on the skinny fun pedal, or am going up a steeper hill. Pretty much anytime the rear end would "sink" due to acceleration or a hill. the sound is the same weather im going 15 up a hill, or accelerating through 55mph. so it does not change with speed. It can happen over speed bumps, but is not struts due to it being a constant grind up hills. Now, the grinding sounds similar to really squeaky struts, but it is far to constant to be struts. Ive had it up on a lift and did a mild look over when i was changing the oil. but not digging to deep. Possibly related to the issue but maybe not, If I am cursing at speed and give it a lot of gas quickly there is a clunk in the rear end. I thought it might just be the stowage compartment clanking. When I engage 4wd and punch the gas, the clunk goes away. I'm really not sure what it could be, Just seeing if anyone has had experience with this problem.
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My parts vehicle (1990 Loyale) has the inboard A/C and my daily driver (1989 GL) has the A/C thats by the battery, the old A/C that was on my GL was made by KIKI DIESEL, thats all i knew, well it was almost impossible to find a replacement but apparently some nissan or something fitted mine so there it is now, my question is, if my A/C or alternator are compatible with this other version of the EA82? and why did subaru make 2versions of how the A/C mounted on the engine? if there is a way to mount these into my other engine? it would be nice to have spares. thanks! 1st picture is 1990 Loyale (blue) 2nd picture is 1989 GL (tanish) -
Just picked up a '93 Loyale last week for a 400 bucks. Its a bit rusty but seems structurally in great shape. 190 000 km and all the electrics are working! Took a couple pictures but have been pulling it apart to do some work. Pulled the bumper and started getting the lights off to clean them up and bend the bumper back as its been smashed a bit by a post from drifting in the snow. The car came included with a new clutch and radiator which are going in soon when I get time to pull the engine out! Also have new cables, belts, plugs, filters, and fluids all around for when I put everything back together. Hoping to follow that up with some work on wheels and suspension been battling on whether I want to lift and offroad or get my drift on and do some rally cross. At the moment I'm leaning towards doing rally cross but still undecided! After pulling the engine I'll likely get things cleaned up a bit rust wise and try and throw down a coat of some tough undercoat paint to keep the rust away. Figure if I blast it with a pressure washer and paint starts coming off it was likely going to flake from the rust soon anyways. Here she is for now! Bunch of trim is missing as I've been pulling it off to clean underneath but its all still in once piece... Except for that little triangle that's still attached, ughh. Been looking around lots and seeing what people have done so its tough to decide but I'm sure I'll figure it out, stoked either way especially since its my first car.
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im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
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Alright, so this is the first time ive posted on here before, ive been on here for 2 years now but never had a reason to post, well i recently bought a blue 1990 loyale that had been sitting for 10+ years, i need help deciding whether to pull the plug on this vehicle for parts for my other wagon or rescue it. Pros: not a single spot of rust interior is beautiful body is straight as an arrow A/C somehow still works power windows and locks work 130,xxx drove 180 miles from where i bought it. 4wd Cons: Automatic transmission oil seal leaks smokes ALOT when it runs rear passenger wheel bearing is bad electric fan does not work head gaskets look pretty soaked in oil so it probably needs new headgaskets my question is what is all the smoking out the exhaust? how do i fix it? is it head gaskets? and how much life can i expect out of an automatic EA82? is it even worth fixing, because my other wagon is ready for a new rear bumper and powersteering and seats and more stuff. keep in mind that i live in south Texas where these EA82 cars are rare and have yet to see another in the last 3 years of driving my GL sadly... i am the cars only mechanic, and finding parts down here is a joke. everyone refuses to work on it, even the dealership. any help is greatly appreciated thanks!! -Omar
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Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!! -
Hi I'm looking for a recommendation for a mechanic in the southern California, greater Los Angeles area. I have a 94 Subaru Loyale that is in pretty good shape (a little issue with the check engine light), except for the 4wd. When placed into 4wd (manual transmission), the rear wheels lock up. Yelp recommended Raffi Motors, but they didn't think they could help. The dealership won't even touch it, says 'they don't the books' for it. ' I searched the forum but didn't find any relevant threads, if there is one already, please point me to it, otherwise, any suggestions? Thanks -
So I went out and bought some nice 16" rims on brand new tires. Little did I know subarus lug pattern is 4x140 and not 4x100 or 4x114 like I needed. Does anyone know if I can redrill my rims to fit the 4x140 pattern? They are universal 4 lug so they already have 4x100 and 4x114 bolt holes. Can I do this myself? Difficulty?
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Finally starting my build page. About a month ago I moved and was in need of a commuter car. I am driving around 400 miles just to work and back. My Tacoma was just costing to much. So I picked up a 1991 Loyale Wagon. It has just under 200,000 miles, five speed 4WD, and oh boy it is in rough shape. When I got it the pass front wheel bearing was toast, the cv was near gone, the passenger door doesn't open, mild rust here and there, and the only clear coat on the entire car is under the roof rack. That is just the main obvious issues, But I fell in love. For some reason the name "The Burner" felt so right. Now that I actually have a garage, I can now get this Loyale to tip top shape. My quick basic plan isssssssssss 1. Mechanially runs perfect 2. Re do Interior top to bottom (add stereo in the process) 3. Exterior (paint and what not) Before I started this build page I have replaced the front passenger wheel bearings, right front half shalft, front break job, basic tune up, scrubbed the grime off the steering wheel, and replace the wiper blades. I still have a Lot of work, But i am excited to see the transformation
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Well, the dreaded happened the other day. I went to go check the fluids and this is what I ended up with! So I ordered the new cable online (Park Suabru, ordered it Sun night and arrived Tuesday morn. $14.23. :rock: ) Hood Release Cable, part number 57331GA122 But there was a major problem. How the *%&^ do I open the hood w/o destroying the grille, hood or other stuff. (If your hood is open, then skip ahead to the cable replacement part) Well, for those of us with large hands, an A/C condenser or want to just make it easy, the ever useful slim-jim to the rescue! It was as if this tool was made for this job.. Available at ANY auto parts stores, can be had for around 7 bucks and has helped me and MANY stranded people. (Disclaimer: Never use this tool for malicious use. With a great tool comes great responsibility) Coming from up under the bumper using the notched spade-head side (not the fishtail side), on the driver's side, in front of the A/C condenser, angle the slim-jim at a ~45 degree angle and starting just below the assembly, slide up behind the latch mechanism. Now while flexing the tool toward the grille and dragging it outward toward the headlight, you should feel it catch. This is the latch release. Continue to pull the tool horizontally (toward the headlight, not down toward the marker light/ground) until the hood releases. Viola! Here are some images once I felt the slim-jim catch the release lever. (grille removed for clarity) Under car, looking up. Now that the hood is open, we can get to work! So I started by releasing the 4 plastic anchor clips that hold the cable to the inner fender and core support. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the latch to the core support (you will need to do this if part of the cable is still attached AND to hook the new anchor into the mechanism when installing the new cable) backside with the cable anchor attached Remove the 2 screws holding the cable shield to the latch and the core support. (Set aside the latch) Near the cable end, remove the tear-drop bracket attached to the old cable (you will need to re-use this). Be gentle, it will butterfly apart and then set aside. With patience, work the cable through the pass-through in the core support, around the battery and under the strut tower support plate. Now feed the old cable through the rubber grommet on the driver's side firewall until approx 6-8" are left in the engine bay. Move to the inside. Using a phillips screwdriver, Undo the 2 screws holding the hood release cable bracket to the bulkhead. Once free, take the head of the new cable and tape to the old cable. Wrap several times so the head will not catch on any wires or insulation. Back into the engine bay. Gently peel back the rubber rectangle grommet and pull the old cable up through the grommet until the new cable attached to the old cable is visible. Undo the new cable from the old. Push the old cable back through the grommet completely. Push the new cable through the open hole in the grommet. Push the grommet back into place on the firewall. Make sure to massage the edges well to get a good seal. Water DOES like to nest up there... Back inside. Attach the new cable/bracket assembly back to the bulkhead. The screw holes were very easy to find. Back outside. Feed the new cable following the route the old one took (Under the strut tower support plate, along the inner fender, UNDER the body grounding cable, UNDER the coolant resevoir feed tube and back through the hole in the core support) Be sure to put the protective grommet back around the cable BEFORE you attach the cable anchor to the latch assembly. With the anchor in the cradle of the latch, attach the latch to the core support. Replace screws to the cable shield. Finally, anchor cable to sheetmetal with the plastic retainers. DO THIS STEP LAST. Once the cable has the plastic anchors on, it becomes NEARLY impossible to slide the cable in the retainers. Test pull a few times checking for binding, lack of return or general badness (yeah, it's a word. ) BEFORE closing the hood. If all is good, close the hood to check for binding or excessive force. Grab a beer and enjoy the luxury of having a cable operated hood latch once again! -
I picked up a 1993 Loyale wagon for 400$, expecting the best from it as i always have... well it just so happens i bought the only subaru that has ever given me problems! Mainly due to the fact that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing and messed alot of things up. looking for some advice and guidance for sure! Ive done head gasket jobs on plenty of my buddies chevys but never on a boxer. ive got a chiltons on the way and wanted to ask if theres anything i should know before ordering parts and diving in? any info would be greatly appreciated. My ultimate goal is to lift it 2' and turn it into an offroad rig. -
Hi There, First off I am new to this, but have read many articles on USMB before. My problem is I was driving my 91 Subaru Loyale 4wd (226k) when it just shut off. Now all it will do is turn over, but wont even try to fire. I have newer timing belts, which i checked and are set properly, newer head gaskets too, just passed smog 3 weeks ago. I checked the fuel pump, working well, even changed all gas. Great spray coming from fuel injector (SPFI) in rythem. I am getting spark, in rythem at each spark plug. Checked the screw on rotor and it didnt fall out. Has newer exhaust. No trouble codes Fuseable links are good, even switched them out with extra set, all fuses under dash good. Good compression, definately not a mechanical issue, has to be electrical, fuel or air???? Ive worked on subarus for a while and I still have NO clue whats wrong..... Getting spark, air , and fuel (even with starter fluid nothing). I have heard of this problem once before and the car just went to the scrap yard, I really dont want to do that to my subie..... Anyone have a similar problem? Possible relay, computer, or bad electrical???? Same as this artical, but I need an answer http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129943-problem-with-loyale/ PLEASE HELP! I am defiantely dealing with a more advanced issue than a bad fuel pump, coil, fuse, or timing belt, etc issue cause I have ruled those all out. What should I try now, I am becoming desperate. Thank You For Your Help!!!
