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Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!

We are the Ford's. New Years is also our anniversary. The boys wanted us to join them at the orv park near our house. It was a lot of fun. We also met a couple of new Subaru friends. Chris if your out there it was great meeting you and your friends. Peace and a Happy New Year.

GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!

Thank you all so much! I have been lurking around these forums for some time, and just recently made an account. I have very basic car knowledge, but between this forum and Miles Fox's youtube videos I was able to do a head gasket on my '92 Loyale. Basically everything that could have gone wrong did, from the head gasket being cracked to the lifters being stuck in the old block andthe rockers slipping all over the place then slapping like crazy afterwards Afterwards i put in some light oil, let it burn through a half a tank of gas with half a bottle of Seafoam in the tank and the other half in the oil. I drained the filth from it and gave it a full tune up, and put in the proper oil for the oncoming winter. My Loyale hit 80 on the freeway for the first time, and peeled rubber when i punched the gas. I never knew it could do either of these things, and all the thanks goes to you. It runs super smooth, there is no more knocking and the gas mileage has improved. It just hit 150,000 miles, and I'm hoping to get another 150k out of it. Many, many thanks, - Blusc13

Does anyone know where the "main lighting relay" is located on a Loyale (92 Sedan, SPFI 4WD)? I cannot find this relay. Running lights and dash illumination is out. All fusable links test OK. Not even the park light switch on the column will turn them on.

Winter is coming and I need to lift my car so I can fit my new tires in. I have been unable to find an Outback to get the tranny and engine crossmember spacers for a drop. I believe they are from a 96-99 Outback and are 1.1/4". Does anyone have some drawings or specs so I can have some made. I don't know everything that I am looking for on this so I appreciate the help. Thanks, Brian

Does anyone make stickers that could do 1970s style side graphics http://forzamotorsport.net/en-us/games/fm5/news/hma_3_6_14/ but for a newer generation, say, my 92 loyale? Maybe with the updated 4wd logo, or not? I have never seen this done but I think it would be awesome and I want it for my car.

What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!

Since Betty White the Loyale is going to become my home away from home this winter I need to figure out how to make it a little more cozy. The wagon will become a two seater with a permanent 'bed' in the back. The mattress will not be permanent but the seats will be gone and replaced with a sheet of plywood and storage underneath. I would like to insulate it for sound, cold and if I could get some padding out of it that would be great. I will be insulating behind the panels with Roxul (mold resistant bats of fibreglass insulation). The footwells, seat area and back section of the wagon need something. Dynamat would take car of sound but not the cold or give any padding. Dynamat and Roxul could work but I worry about the Roxul holding water from gear, etc. Is there a thicker dynamat type product that has any sort of insulating value? Any ideas.

What's the place called that does good work like timing belts and a clutch on my 91 loyale?

hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks!

Hi there, My 1990 Loyale won't start, and it appears to be due to an electrical problem. Symptoms: Weak power to accessories when ignition is in "accessory" mode. Weaker power, and sometimes no power, when ignition is in "on" mode. Car does not start, and accessories lose power completely when ignition is in "start" mode. Testing: So far, I have done the following: checked battery voltage, checked battery connections, checked fuses, checked fusible links, tested six relays for switching and continuity (4 above the fuse box and 2 above the ECM), tested ignition switch for appropriate continuity at the different key positions, partially tested steering column switches for continuity (the diagram in the Haynes manual confuses me; nevertheless, I disconnected the steering column switches and the problem remains.) I have not noticed loose grounds or frayed wires, but perhaps I have missed some. There are a couple of interesting items to note. First, when I activate the switch for the hazard flashers, the lights do not operate and a buzzing sounds. I have disconnected the power to the flashers module, and this of course silences the buzzing sound, but the original electrical issue remains. Second, occasionally when I turn on the parking lights via the steering column switch, the needle on the tachometer jumps - this is all without the engine running! It's a mystery to me - hopefully someone out there can point me in the right direction. Thank you! Jason

I was just thinking how cool it would be to somehow get my 1990 subaru loyale to be rwd but still have the pushbutton 4wd. is there any cheap reliable way of doing this, is it worth it? Your thoughts

Hello! My name is Corey and I live in Arvada Colorado and own a 94 Subaru Loyale Wagon and would like to beef it up. Get a lift on it maximize my engine power and upgrade the tranny/drive to allow for some off-roading and mudding. I invision a "mad max" style road warrior car and i wanna do it right but still holding on to some of my cash while i do it. if anyone has any information on how to: Lift by at least 4" Upgrade the current engine or suggest upgrade options Any information on what i need to do to ensure sufficient power for transfer case/drivetrain. I do have a second 88' Loyale I was going to use to cannibalize for parts which has everything in tact, just older. but again suggest what i can and cannot use from that for what I would like to do. thanks for checkin it out! - Corey

I've got a set of EA82 turbo heads off of my 1987 GL-10 wagon. Motor lost a rod bearing in the bottom end, but there was no sign of failure from the top end. Includes intake, fuel rails, etc.... Finally did the EJ22 swap after doing one on my Vanagon, so I don't need these goodies anymore! Make me an offer, I was thinking in the neighborhood of $100. I am in the Portland area if you want to pick them up, since the cost of shipping would be atrocious.

Hey everybody, I just got a 1990 Subaru Loyale a few days ago (will post pictures soon), while driving the check engine light turned on. It turns out it is a ISC Solenoid Valve Fault. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what you guys did to fix it. EDIT; my bad guys, i was looking at the wrong codes After looking at the correct codes the problem is in fact the Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit.

Hey yall, I have been looking For Subaru Loyales lately in my area. I recently found one with low miles for a decent price. BUT, its in Canada Im not sure if there are any rules for bringing used cars over the border into washington. If anybody could give me some advice it would help alot thanks It is a 1992 subaru loyale wagon.

I'm wanting to go with a more aggressive wheel and tire on my 92 Loyale, any recommendations? It's 4 lug and I didn't want to have to mess with modifying the hubs, are there any styles that will bolt right on?

I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!!

I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks

I just want some opinions here, my concern is through the roof. I am considering taking my 1990 Loyale wagon on a trip from Portland, Oregon to Gallipolis, Ohio, which is on the eastern side of the state. The trip is about 2600 miles, beginning on I-84, then moving onto I-80 and I-74. I'm a stranger to drives this far but if I do it, i'm not worried about lack of driving skill or anything like that. I'd maybe cruise a bit less than 500 miles a day until i got there. Who knows. What I AM worried about is ye olde ea82. Its a tough old gal, but it has given me trouble here and there, no surprises. I have a bit of an oil leak on the passenger side cam tower, which became pretty noticeable after cleaning the block. It's not enough so that I need to dump more oil in, in fact, I haven't noticed any oil loss whatsoever. What DOES go down the drain is some coolant, and I dont really know where it goes. Its not an absurd amount but, like i say, noticeable. The car drives like a champ for what it is, a yellow bellied ea82. However, I would kinda be up spoob creek with half a paddle if it blew up on the drive. I know my way around the engine bay no doubt, but thats not gonna save me if i throw a rod bearing or really cream the cam tower/head. Does anyone have experience with a trip like this in a "seasoned" ea82, or some insight they can give me? I would appreciate it greatly. I dont have much cash to save myself in the event of a mass failure. Is it worth trying? Car is a '90 Loyale wagon, optional 4wd, 5spd tranny. Thanks in advance guys. The car has been running pretty solid lately, it has had an electrical problem before but its fixed now. If spoob hits the fan, what kind of costs(jagged, rough estimates) can i expect to get this thing rebuilt? Any parts you see as impending doom-bringers?

My EA82 wagon has a slight, random misfire. Recently, I've been pretty determined to find the solution. About 20,000 miles ago, I swapped the long block. Used my old distributor, but got new spark plugs (NGK BPR6ES-11), new spark plug wires (Import Direct 40975), new distributor cap (Import Direct 10-0199), and distributor rotor (Import Direct 12-0186). All parts I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Before starting the engine when I installed it, I accidentally hydrolocked it with coolant. I pulled the plugs and cleaned out the coolant. I also accidentally had two of the spark plug wires mixed up. But once I got it all sorted out, I was driving fine. This is when I first noticed the slight misfire. Flash forward to today: I've currently got new plugs (NGK BPR6EY-11) and new wires (NGK 9350) coming in the mail. My current spark plugs don't look abnormal. I think having NGK wires will make a big difference, but I have another issue. My distributor rotor seems to be making serious contact with the cap. There's virtually no up-and-down play in the shaft, nor side-to-side. There's some rotational play, but since it's supposed to be spinning, I don't see how that could cause it to do this. Could it be the wrong parts? What have you guys used for your cap & rotor? I figure what I'll do is grab another distributor from the junkyard. Get a new cap and rotor as well. Besides shaft play, how can I tell how good the distributor is? Is there a way to clean it once I get it home? I have a good feeling that this is what's causing my misfire, since my misfire seems to be very random. It's not necessarily on one cylinder, and it misfires at random times (once every 1-5 seconds).

This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback.

Someone in my area has a free factory deck from a 98 Outback. As far as size and wiring harness, is it a plug-in match to my 92 Loyale?

So today I decided to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes on my Loyale. I've been looking for rear discs for about a year, but not had any luck. Either I don't have the money, there are no junkyard cars, or a list of other reasons. I just spent the $20 and got new drum shoes. Installation went fine (surprising). Wasn't too difficult, even for my first time doing drum brakes. What I have a question about is the old shoes. One thing that caught my eye was the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on two of the shoes. Could these be the original brake shoes that came with car in 1990? The new shoes didn't have the Fuji logo (obviously). The odometer is at 278,300 miles. I doubt these are the original shoes. I'd imagine they've been replaced once before. If they were replaced at the dealership, could they have use Fuji brake shoes? I'm just curious about this. Knowing some of the car's history, I'd say it was probably a 60/40 highway/city driving car. So there's no way the shoes are original, right? They're really worn down, but they still worked. Lift the back of the car, step on the brake, and you can't turn the wheels. Second thing I wanted to ask about is the wear. The leading edge shoe (towards the front of the car) had less material than the trailing edge. Is this normal for EA82s? Both sides were exactly the same, no marks on the drums themselves, and the material on the pads seems pretty normal (no cracks or whatever). I just wanted to ask about this. I kinda have a feeling it's normal, but wanted to check. Thanks for any help. I know a lot of people do rear disc swaps, so not sure how abundant the information on drums is. But all I can say is, the new shoes made a HUGE difference. My brake pedal is a lot stiffer and doesn't have a deadzone in it anymore. I presume the front brakes won't overheat easily anymore. I'll be happy if I can get at least 100K out of these shoes. Thanks!