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  1. I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC
  2. Hi folks, It's been a while since I posted here, 'cause the wagon has been running fine, but a BAD THING happened today. I was toodling home through my neighborhood when, upon starting up from a stop at an intersection, I heard a CLUNK and lost motive power. the engine was running and revving, and the car was...just...rolling. I hit the 4WD button on the shifter (this is a 5-speed) and the rear drive engaged. I got back underway, nice and easy, for the mile or so home. Once home, I took a quick look underneath the front end to confirm that the new CV axles and joints were still in place, which they were. So, I suspect a problem with or in the transaxle. QUESTIONS: Does that sound about right? Am I overlooking anything? What's the diagnostic procedure, or did I just experience it? Is this a repair, or a replacement? How big of a PITA is the job? Considering this car has 245k miles on it and needs new front engine seals at the next timing belt change (i.e. soon), is it worth pursuing? TIA
  3. I keep reading about larger sized tires that fit on stock height Loyales without issue. However, I can't find any pictures! I frequently hear 185/70-14s work well, and I've read once or twice 195/70-14s fit too. Anyone have a picture or two they can put up? Any negative experiences? Thank you!
  4. I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/
  5. As the title says, I'm curious as to what rim/tire combinations are available if you're running a stock height Loyale. I've read the Official 6-Lug Re-Drill Thread, but most of the posts on there seem to be related to cars with lifts. Pictures would be very appreciated! Thank you!
  6. I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
  7. I have this 92 loyale that the driver side electric window is starting to really move slowly into place all the way up. Have to help pull it up. I was checking prices and autozone was like 144 dollars for a rebuilt motor. Are there any newer subaru models whose motors might work? Anyone got the motor for a better price somewhere else? Any other options, like is it easy to take apart and change brushes? Are brushes available for it? Any opinions would help.
  8. I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
  9. hello, I have a 92 loyale and i just recently swapped the transmission to the dual range. I got the car running and drove it around for probably an hour. I had put the car into 4hi with no problems, I popped her into 4lo and the car just stayed in neutral, the transmission would still shift into all gears put just wasn't connecting to the engine. Put it back into 4hi and 2wd and still stuck in neutral. Im guessing something is up with the transfer case. in 2wd the car will occassionally move a fraction of an inch. Any ideas?
  10. Ive been keeping my eye out for any gls in the yakima area for cheap, needed something to drive around town or just have some fun with while i work on my legacy. Didn't find much, but i did run into a 92 loyale at a car lot smaller then a gas station, that had a bunch of stupid little things wrong with it and i knew the guy wasn't telling me everything, but it runs amazingly, the a/c works awkwardly well, and its only 500$. I put it through its paces for almost a 1/2 hour test drive and nothing went wrong. I think i'm about to buy it, and hopefuly build it once the legacy is done. The push button 5spd is nifty, but not what i wanted. I'll post pictures eventually, i broke my knee cap 7 weeks ago, and i'm already buying a manual lol
  11. Hello all, First off I've got a 1990 loyale, base ea82 EFI, 5 speed Sooooooooo about 3 months ago I notice a pretty dramatic drop in my fuel economy 30-32mpg down to 18-20mpg. Around the same time my subie started dying around the same spot on my commute home (13min into my 18min commute). When it died I'd here a clicking sound and poof! engine off. While rolling I press in the clutch, turn it over, it starts and I'm on my way. Well yesterday I drive to church and after service I go to start my car and I can't get it to fire. It turns over, and every now and again a few cylinders will light but its only a few sputters and gone. I popped off a fuel line and turned it over and it looks like the fuel pump is happy. Tonight I'll pull the plugs and see if I can get a couple clues as to what is going on but I'm pretty stumped..... The plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, battery, and timing belts are all pretty new (<9 months). Any ideas??? I kinda wonder about the MAF but I don't think that would come into play until after the vehicle is warmed and the ECU kicks in. Thanks! -K
  12. Any one going this year I'm dragging my loyale down again this year last year in the forester sucked this year is different for me though instead of runing around trying to get my car together I'm gona run it as is I'm Gona trailer it down throw all my spare parts in the truck and repair as needed and spend my time working on my house right on the edge of the park by soggy lake I can almost see the northern most hammer trails from the house the property touches the park on 3 sides so I can go wheelin right out my front door Im stoke on the loyale for this year with all the porting and custom intake manifold and free flowing exuast the thing is running like a mad dog right now and I've got some new all terains for it and a 2ft light bar It should be fun out there I just have to patch the front bumper I over loaded my trailer and was moving it over logs boards and bumpers and other car parts and I bent the reciver part all up aperently my bumper couldn't handle the 2000lb tongue wait of the unbalanced car hauler being forced over 6x6s it held but it just makes me wounded if its strong enuff for the big winch if I get pinched in somewhere and have to winch at a wiered angle so I'm Gona add some gussets and a safety chain to it just in case and try not to move any more unballenced loaded car trailers and see how it goes my only prep this year is a tire change and a bumper repair Should only be a days work which is good because I only have a few more free days before I leave
  13. Edit* Moved to members rides build tread section. Picked it up in Seattle drove it back to Oakland. 1200 miles later. Adventure approved! Rambn Wagon is a weekend adventure vehicle. A sweet update from my 87 Wagon Gl "Leon" My first Soob. Stoked to have got this awesome wagon through USMB. Nice guy up in Seattle. Thanks! Previous owners have put some nice workin into project. Only fitting it seams most of the work was done somewhere in the WA forest at a subaru custom garage. Fellow named Lance Telling made the rear bumer/Spare arm. And did most the work on the vehicle as far as I am aware. Not sure if you're on USMB but good job dude Where she sits 140k Dual range Swap Rear Disc 15s Pugs Intake rotate "Under hood snokel" Custom rear Bumper Tire Arm Plans Lift 2inch Square DL HID Headlight swap Maxima Alt conversion Suspension- Rear -Toyota KYB with Stock Spring Front -Stock ford spings if I can find at local picknpull Custom- steel round Front light bar/bumper Winch under bumper mount Skid plate Roof Basket Fold out tow tongue Current issues to fix 1) Only had one "field" fix on drive down the Coast. After a very loud first drive. Felt around breathing in exhaust till I found the hot air blasting out of the exhaust man gasket. Only 4 bolts, 2 new gaskets and 10$ in A cold walmart parking lot should have only taken 30 min. but of course even after long PB Bastr soak. The last bolt came out thread full of Alu so. back to O'reillies for tap and bolts... Held the whole trip... tap job was not clean but it held for 1200 miles. so im happy with it for now. BUT... there must be more exhaust leaks cause damn! she smells at idle.. Going to switch some stuff from Gl this weekend to try to pass smog next week. If i sniff around under the hood I always go to EGR valve area. Thinking a new gasket and a good clean might help. But also going to search around when I have more time and check vacuum leaks. Whats best way? spray something and looking for idle increase? Any areas I should check first or advice would be appreciated! 2) Has a slight lifter tick on port side and valve cover leak on other side... 3) Etape CEL fix needs to be sorted out. Right now im thinking to try n rewire to adjacent light so that it behaves like it should on key turn to pass smog. Need to check for codes but previous owner said it has been perm on since D/r trans swap... Don't understand what would cause that to go chasing right now so the electrical trick is easier i hope.. just to get through smog.. Anyone Ever had problems with D/r swap into Loyale i'm assuming its from a GL judging on center console but that could be from different what ever its from it looks fresh! nice and clean! Alright here some photos! Thanks
  14. I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST.
  15. Hi I have a 92 loyale and having heater trouble and I've done everything I can think of to get it to work and it still won't.. Wondering if there is a heater control valve and where that might be
  16. Hi all, I have a 1991 Loyale with manual transmission, and I am attempting to remove the 4WD indicator light switch. This is my next step in diagnosing the problem of the dashboard indicator light not coming on when the vehicle is in 4WD. I have confirmed that the vehicle is properly engaging and disengaging from 4WD when pressing the pushbutton on the shifter. I believe I have located the 4WD indicator light switch on the top rear of the transmission. Due to the location, I can barely access the plastic connector, and I am having a bear of a time getting my fingers in any position to disconnect the connector. Also, I am not sure how I'll be able to access the switch itself. I have read posts that say this is a pain in the butt. It sure is - does anyone have tips? Thanks. - Jason
  17. I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN, I'VE CHECKED COMPRESSION ONE READS A BIT LOWER THAN THE OTHERS, IF I REMEMBER THEY WERE AROUND 175-180.......NO SURE IF THOSE NUMBERS ARE CORRECT. WEIRD THING IS I CAN DRIVE 400KM AND LOSE THE SAME AMMOUNT OF IIL IF I DRIVE 40KM IN SHORT TRIPS TO TOWN AND BACK. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST.
  18. Hello i have a 1992 Loyale recently replaced the power steering pump, and my steering still sucks anyone know why?
  19. I currently have zovak hpw401s and they are 185/70/r13 on my Loyale. I want to get some general grabber AT2s which are 27 x 8.5R14. my wheels measure 14 inches across. I have seen other people with thus same wheel/ tire combination i am just not sure if my wheels are the same size. Thanks
  20. Hi, For months I've had trouble trying to get my '92 Subaru Loyale started. It shut off back in February, couldn't start it again for days. A mechanic said the timing had slipped, he fixed everything, put in new distributor, timing belts, a few new hoses, new coil. But it still gave him trouble starting up. He could fire it once and it ran good, but cut it off and try to start it again and it wouldn't work. Next he did some kind of coil bypass and said the problem is that the power transistor/ignition module was getting hot and needed to be replaced, which explained why he said I wouldn't be able to start the car again until about 5 to 10 minutes after it ran because the transistor/module was too hot. He also said my starter was going and that I should work on getting that replaced. He didn't want to go any further and pay for that or the ignition module, so left it to me. So the car did run great like he said, but I still had the problem of having to wait 5 to 10 minutes to start it again each time. Then one night my car made a weird sound under the hood on the road and it slowly started coming to a stop, check engine light was on. Wouldn't crank even after I gave it time to cool. Then after about an hour it started up and I got back on the road but it died down again. Had to get it towed back to my area. After that I got the new starter put in and it started up fine but again the engine died after some minutes. Then recently I finally got that new ignition module put in and also came with a genuine Subaru coil. It started up after a friend of mine who works on cars charged the battery, and it ran great. We let it run for about 10 minutes to get the kinks all out after months of not running. Then we cut it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start. I chalked the problem up to be that the mechanic who fixed my car the first time messed something up with the coil, doing some kind of bypass, but now I'm puzzled as to what could really be going on. Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine, but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run. Really weird. Me and my friend also noticed that when he kind of touched the wires to the ignition module connector while I tried to crank engine that it roared to life, yet it will also start up when you charge the battery. I really don't get what's going on. Not sure if the issue is that I need a new ignition module connector, or a new battery. Can anybody help me?
  21. Hey guys! I'm new here. But I've been reading up a lot here lately since I recently grabbed a 1992 Loyale for a good price. All of the tires are out of round and I'd really like some better options than the 13" stock wheels allow. I also don't want to have to lift it. So, I've already got some 14x6" wheels from an old b series mazda. I'm thinking the tire size should be around 185/75r14. Initially I was looking at a bfg tire 195/75r14 all terrain t/o ak, but was worried they'd rub against my suspension... I can rent a drill press and angle grinder by donation from a local tool library. Some of my questions: Is there anything else I should know about before removing the hubs? i.e. rotors... drum brakes.. How can I recalibrate the odometer and speedometer? Is this going to compromise the structural integrity of the hubs? Will I be totally safe, even off road? Does anyone have a good idea of if the 195/75r14 would fit in the wells? Any input and/or direction is so greatly appreciated!
  22. Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance.
  23. Suspension Improvements For the third Gen Subaru Leone (also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale, Vortex and even as Isuzu Gemminett II, depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.) However, since the Second Gen Subaru Leone (EA81 / Brat) uses the same diameter and tall coil springs on the Front, being different on their spring rate and load rates only; you can use the third gen Leone's (EA82) coil springs on the second gen Leones (EA81), also you can use the Alternative coil springs from another automotive makes, which I mention here, on the second gen Leones, but their suspension could get way too stiff and might need a small cut off on the coil spring's wire, to work. Remember: going too weak or too stiff on the suspension on any car, could make you loose control of it, mainly on irregular terrains, so this could be Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Disclaimer: Use this information, and All the information I post, at your own Risk! Introduction: Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, Stiffer. The modifications written here, has been tested with great results on the third gen Leone (EA82) Wagon only. My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon EA82 new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs on it since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, things which I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin! In this Writeup: ► Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs. ► Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars. ► Their part numbers. ► Photos. First Part: modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts: About The REAR Suspension: In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye... Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie: The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)... ...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised, two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass. So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring. 2WD .Vs. 4WD ► Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base. Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches. Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber, with Part Number and KYB equivalence: The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230 But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear. Chapter 1: How to Improve the Rear Suspension: First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements: I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo: Honduran “Yonkers” are different from the regular “PaP” (pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in “Areas” so, you can find in a Latin American “Yónker”, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American “Yonker” (Junk Yard): I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities. The variables that I compare, are their Measurements, Spring Rates, Load Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised. So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt. The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones. The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is: ~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers? My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution: To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones! (Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...) As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon. (Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo) The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: ~► KYB 341232 in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market). The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers... According to online databases, it does interchange with: ~► Monroe D8344 ~► Sachs 230631 ~► BOGE 27-D67-A I Tested the KYB 341232 only, any other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear, since many, many years ago... ...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel. (as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3") But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above. In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models, here is the Factory Guide about how to do that: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration. ► LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed. About The FRONT Suspension: The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast", new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers: Passenger Side: ~► 71876 .................Driver Side: ~► 71877 Chapter 2: How to Improve the Front Suspension: Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension). Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight. So, using "my own method" which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire. I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications. ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse... Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here. (thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs, So those should be: ~► MOOG CC854 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775375 for "Napa" Brand. These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift, as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru. Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you: They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities: Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia. The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder, with the stiffer suspension. Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc... ...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before. I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways... ...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads... ...and it Feels Really AWESOME! ... ... but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore. Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!
  24. Hello All, So I successfully converted to a dual range transmission. So it drives awesome! Problem is that the 4wd light does not work? So I have 3 other single range transmissions on the ground. The switches look the same but won't work? Any idears? Thanks, Eric
  25. Alright, I'm a new Subaru owner. I have a 1991 Loyale 4wd. Bought it with 133km and have put over 9k on it in a month. Basically everything is original from my guess because everything seems to be breaking down. Most recently the altinator went. Since than the 4wd is no longer functioning. I am having trouble finding information in the Haynes manual as well as online, any information would be great!
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