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Showing results for tags 'Outback'.
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I'm in the market for a used Outback, 2010 to 2014 2.5i model. Upon doing some basic research this seems like a really reliable and quality car but I would like to get some info from owners on what some common issues/problems or just general things to know about this model. I've never owned a Subaru before, mostly a Nissan guy up to this point. Thanks for your input. -
Hi, another 2000 subaru legacy/liberty problem. So far i have researched as much as i can about this problem but just want to firm up my understanding in this post. So the car has 145,000kms (90,000m) and has had full head gasket replacement along with timing belt ect ect. The new problem has occurred probably two years following this which started with the engine light flashing on during start up or whilst driving with limited power and significant lag between pushing the pedal. The light would then go off and the car would function normally. I have been meaning to take the car in for service when today the car would jolt into the gears and not change during the same rpm that it usually does. I am pretty freaked out by the whole thing and want to confirm a few things before rushing and replacing the transmission which seems to be the consensus on these forums. Initially i thought the O2 sensor could be the blame for the engine light and power lag problem if anyone could shed some light on this that would be great. So my first question would be do i pursue the Trans X method and try that along with flushing the fluid and replacing. The car has had the delay between reverse and drive issue but the delay was less than one second and has never really been a concern. Any advice is welcome, thank you in advance. -
My 2004 Subaru Outback wagon suddenly got super loud on acceleration, and I'm guessing this broken pipe is the culprit? (Pic attached.) Can anyone tell me exactly which part this is, and a general idea of how expensive it might be to repair? Is it just a welding issue, or will the part need to be replaced? Any DIY exhaust repair options I could try? I do most minor repairs myself, but I have no welding tools. I can't afford much, so I'm trying to educate myself to ensure I don't get ripped off. I'm new in town, my trusty Subaru guru is 500 miles away. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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I'd like to thank eveyone that helped me pick out a good replacement for my 2001 Legacy. This 2010 Outback will do my family well for years (hopefully) to come. She's pretty!
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Hi everybody! I could use some advice . . . . . After my oil change the Valvoline guys had trouble getting my hood closed, and used a screwdriver to push down the hood-release cable. (it was sticking) Yes, they put the screwdriver through something they shouldn't have I had *just* had the coolant changed at the Subaru dealership because I'm aware of the typical head gasket issues. Mine is a 2006 EJ253, so I think it's low-risk, but it still pays to be cautious. So what was in my cooling system was the right stuff with the right additive (official Subaru stop-leak). Valvoline pulled off my radiator before realizing they actually had stabbed the air conditioning exchanger. So I've got my original radiator. I was *very specific* I didn't want any of their coolant in my car, but they topped it off with their product (probably XEREX) when they reassembled. * Is this going to be ok? They say Valvoline supplies Subaru's coolant. If that's the case, why shouldn't I just have them do it (giving them a bottle of the official additive to mix in) rather than pay 3x as much at the dealership? But if the Valvoline XEREX coolant isn't the right stuff, I'll probably be continuing to go to the dealer for that. My immediate concern is that I don't want the Subaru coolant/additive to react badly with the XEREX and plug my radiator or heater core. My long-term concern is that I want to not have to do a head gasket job on this car for a very long time if possible. Looking for some good advice from those who know these things! Thank you ~Nicole -
I bought this 1997 Outback DOHC with 198,000 miles about a year ago. Just after purchasing the car I took the car for a road trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara while towing a 400lb trailer. About two hours from SB my car started to overheat. This was strange because I had recently had the radiator replaced. When I opened the hood the pressure cap on the radiator had fluid on it and the overflow reservoir for the coolant was overfull. After the car cooled, I took the cap off and started the engine while filling the radiator from the top. I nursed the car to my final destination. On the way home from this same drive I had another overheating when I pulled off the freeway and went to the gas station. I let the car sit and then the next day took it to a jiffy lube to have the cooling system purged and filled, eliminating any air pockets. I was able to make it the rest of my trip without any hitches but I still had suspicions. Since this trip the car overheated twice and then finally when I checked the car after another overheat I found oil in the coolant reservoir. Since then I have pulled the engine and got the heads off. I am not a trained mechanic and wanted to hear another persons opinion about my cylinder walls and heads. I want to know if it is worth installing new head gaskets on this motor or if I should search for a new block and machine the heads. Thanks in advance!
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Hey everyone, I posted about my 1995 Legacy L sedan a few weeks back, but here's a refresher. My 95 legacy was in an accident that damaged the front bumper. So I decided to turn it into my project/winter car. So after searching online awhile about how to lift it, I decided to slap some struts from a 1997 OB and got a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers that attach to the upper strut mount. After doing the front, everything fit perfectly. And I was happy with the results. Only one minor thing, I have quite a bit of positive camber on my fronts. I tried adjusting the camber bolts to even it back out. But to no avail. I know I need to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment done professionally. It's lifted about 2.5-3" now, and I'm just humbly wondering if anyone has run into this, or knows how to fix it. Before taking to a shop. Thanks everyone for your time! -
Hello, I posted a few days ago about my car that won't pass safety. We're looking at a few used models online and since I've always gotten good advice on here I'm wondering what people's opinions on the five were looking at are, if there's any to avoid or a gem or two in there. I haven't seen any in person but the pictures online don't show any noticeable damages or rust and all are wagons/crossover. A couple have been brought up from the States in the past, if that makes a difference. -2009 Tribeca (216,000 km), $10,995 (dealer) -2008 Outback 2.5i (205,000 km), $8,995 (dealer) (American) -2005 Outback 2.5XT Wagon (230,000 km), $6,000 (private) (American; turbo and timing belt replaced at 160k; $3k of work done in 2014 with receipts) -2004 Impreza (194,000 km), $3,000 (private) (Timing belt replaced at 150k) -2004 Impreza (192,000 km), $3,500 (private) We're a family of three, mostly short in city trips with the occassional long distance trip a few times a year. Thank you in advance!
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It all started when her timing belt snapped and took a decent chunk of the engine with it. She spent a month at the shop with a man whom I thought knew Outbacks well. Her head gaskets were replaced, all hoses and clamps were replaced, as well as many other parts. She carted me around for a while longer after that, but then she started to overheat on the highway. My dad (who has been employed for 30+ years as a mechanic) took her off my hands for the last two months and replaced everything again, as the first guy apparently did a bad job at some stuff. I got her back and she was fine for a while and then the issue began again. I love my car and quite frankly can't afford to replace it. My dad is at his wit's end with this issue. When it overheats it's after about 10-20 minutes on the highway. City driving does not seem to be an issue (though it may be that I don't drive for very long periods of time in the city). The coolant reservoir appears to be very full when it's overheating like that and there's smoke and/or steam (I never had to learn about cars since my dad and brother and boyfriends always took care of this stuff so I'm not as knowledgeable as I should be. Forgive me if I type something that sounds ridiculous). When I blast the heat it helps. When it's overheating on the highway and I get back into the city (at slower speeds) it cools down a bit (though still runs high) with the heat blasting. So much has been replaced in the engine in the last couple years including and most recently, the thermostat, head gaskets, water pump and hoses. Help! Before this car tears our family apart. -
Hello, At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase. **my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light. -Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good. - pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing. -Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light. -Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts. Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ? The research and Adventure now begins! Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty of photos flowing :0)
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I'm considering a '98 OB at a dealer asking $5K. 109K miles, 2 owners. I have scheduled a test drive. It was purchased new in Washington State where it was driven 42K miles in 6 years, then moved to SE Wis. There is a car-fax report that shows routine service at mileage intervals, or just "vehicle serviced". Plugs replaced by a Sub dealer at 106K. Went to auction at 93k, bought and sold by another dealer. No reports of anything unusual in the CarFax summary. My cursory view on the lot when I drove there on my way home from traveling on Christmas day revealed a car that appeared to be in nice shape, with no rust perforation, and looking underneath with a flashlight showed fairly little corrosion. I will try to find out if there is any record of changing the timing belt when I look at the car during dealer hours. Also, wondering what to look for as a sign of any head gasket problems when I have the chance to look under the hood. Is there a place on the engine where signs of an oil leak are considered routine and normal for this engine? VIN shows it is a "BG". Thanks for any suggestions on what to look for. -
Hey all, Just wondering what the possibilities are regarding swapping an 09 xt forester 2.5l turbo into say an older ( **** - 2008) forester, liberty, outback, wrx etc? any quid pro quos or pitfalls that would make it overly difficult? -
I live in snow country (skiing) and am shopping for new tires to replace the Continentals that were factory installed on my Outback. Looking for suggestions based on experience for all season tires that performed particularly well on the Outback (mine is a 2012 3.0L). -
Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt -
I am swapping cruise control into an '01 Legacy L / Brighton, and I need some help troubleshooting the completed install. What I've done so far: - Install cruise main switch, steering wheel controls, actuator and cruise computer - Wire cruise actuator through firewall to cruise computer - Wire cruise computer to all respective wires in the vehicle according to the wiring diagram (this was quite a procedure) - Wired in new 4-wire brake and clutch pedal switches and confirmed it has continuity when no pedals are pressed - Tested and verified all switches, bulbs, ignition power sources, etc - Then I plugged in the cruise module and tried it out, and the light on the cruise control main switch will not come on when I press it (I'm assuming it means 'enable the cruise system'). - I have checked fuse 18 and 15, and backprobed all points from the switch and the bulbs to check that the module genuinely isn't responding, but is otherwise powered. My issue is as follows: The cruise enable switch on the dash does not light up when pressed. Bulb works, switch works, power goes to the cruise module, what else do I check?? UPDATE The cruise module wasn't enabling because the sub-switch output to pin 10 of the cruise module was wired at connector B68 by wire-color and not by pin number. On my particular vehicle (Legacy Brighton L), the wire colors on the steering-wheel side of that harness are incorrect and/or mislabeled in either the vehicle or the wiring diagram. Doing this by pin number means that the cruise module now powers on, and the correct 12v signal is seen at the module when the set, resume and cancel buttons are operated, respectively. The issue now is that it will not set cruise, when driving over 40km/h - the switches do not do anything. I need to troubleshoot whether something is inhibiting the cruise system from setting, or whether it is trying to set the cruise, but the actuator is not working. Any ideas are welcome. Please let me know what you guys think is the best next-step to take to get this working. Some photos of the progress Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 -
Hello all, This is my first Subaru so I'm sure there is a lot I don't know. I search for the answer before posting so please forgive me if I missed it. When Car reaches 45 it makes a chirp or squeal sound just once. I purchesed this 2 m ago from a local used car dealer. I took it back to them and they diagnosed the serpentine belt as the problem. Problem has not changed. Any ideas? 2011 outback 4 cyl -
Need help finding a replacement, don't know the name of this line or where to find it. It is in the very front/bottom, it has a rubber fitting on each side, and two tabs holding it onto the timing chain cover. It comes from the thermostat area and goes to the oil filter area. -
Anyone have a fix for this issue that these seem to have? My passenger side I wiggle the wires a little and it comes on the drivers side goes out. I just got the car but I had this issue on my 01 legacy gt. I'm going to try contact cleaner and that gel stuff they try to sell you at the store. -
While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
Hello, As per bio I'm roadtripping through North America in my 1999 Legacy Outback. When I was in British Columbia, the seat heaters were really useful early in the mornings, and only came on when I switched them on. Now I'm in New Mexico, they've decided to stay on all the time and it's really not ideal! Because I don't need seat heat for now, I'm happy just to disable it. Sadly, per the manual, the same fuse guards the seat heaters *and* the cigarette lighter/accessory socket, which I don't want to lose the use of. I found connections under the seat (see pic) but am not sure which one to pull - I guess one is the heater power and the other is the switch and/or a feedback to a thermostat. Can I just pull both? Will the disconnect confuse and then damage any relays &c? Alternator burnt out in Cali a few weeks back (middle of the PCH!) so I'm slightly cautious on the electrics, perhaps needlessly. Further on, any ideas why the switch no longer controls the heater would be most welcome. Thanks, from someone who's backside is slowly broiling! // Tom PS: For pointless conjecture, why on earth wire the heaters and the socket together when there are two empty spaces in the same fuse rack??
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I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum. -
Hey All, I'm new to this site, however this is my second Outback. I recently purchased a 2006 Outback XT Limited with 102,000 kms. In three months I have added 20,000 kms to it and I am enjoying it greatly. I am hoping to add a Lift, Better Wheels and Tires, Front Light Bar and other Off Road goodies...
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I just became the proud new owner of a Rio Red 1999 OBW, EJ25D, 4EAT, that's had a fair amount of work done by its previous owners, including the timing belt & tensioner, headgaskets, and a full trans service. So far, it seems to run pretty well, but the one weird quirk it has (so far) is that both the Main and Sub Radiator fans seem to be a bit overactive and will often stay on when the car isn't running, but the key is in the ACC or ON positions. The weird part is that when I drove around today in the heat (mid to high 80s) today with the A/C off, the fans didn't stay on, but as soon as I drove with the A/C on on my way home from work, the fans stayed on when I got home. Then, tonight, driving home with no A/C, the fans stayed on again. What I'm trying to figure out is what could be causing this. Bad/unplugged Coolant Temp Sensor? Is the relay getting stuck on sometimes? Are the fans themselves faulty? When I did research on these things before I bought one, I never found anything relating to this topic so I'm kind of at a loss here. I just bought this thing so I'm hoping it's not something catastrophic, as the car runs pretty well other than this weird gremlin. Any help would be appreciated, just go easy on me since I'm new to this whole "Subaru ownership" thing -
Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe? -
Now that I've got your attention, time to tell my story/ask my questions. Like (I'm sure a lot of you on here), I've been a Subaru fanboy for as long as I can remember. Growing up I watched the WRC on TV as much as I could and I remembered, more than anything else, those WRC Blue and yellow Subarus screaming through stages and absolutely embarrassing everything else out there. From a young age, I knew I had to own a Subaru at some point. I also remember going to local auto shows and drooling over the brand new Subies on the show floor and sitting in any of the ones I could. Fast forward 10+ years, and here I am looking for my third car. First was a '94 Volvo 940 wagon that I kept for 4 years, but got rid of when it started to get old (and expensive). I'd also outgrown the car and wanted to get something that could do more. I was abroad in Oz for a semester and when I came back, I bought an '03 Montero Sport. Good truck, but abysmal fuel mileage and completely not what I was looking for in a commuter vehicle for school and work, and I can't find the time to actually off-road it like I wanted to. That's where I am today, trying to sell the Monty and hopefully buy a used version of those Outbacks I drooled over as a kid. I've done a lot of reading on this site, NASIOC, Edmunds, etc, and I've absorbed a LOT of information, so now I'm coming to you guys for your personal experiences. Ideally, I want a 2000-04 OBW (in a lighter color) that's been as well-kept as possible by the previous owners. Here are my questions for you guys (based on personal experiences, others' testimony, etc): 1.Is there any year of OBW, between 2000 and 2004, that's better than any other? I know my dad always abides by the "never buy the first year of anything" rule, so that's pretty ingrained in me as well. I also know that '03-on EJ25s have a decreased risk of HG failure; is this true? 2.How many miles is too many? Where do you make the cutoff as to whether a car is worth the money or not? My price cap is $3.5K, so whatever I find under that is going to have a lot of miles, and I know it depends on how well kept the car is, but when should I walk away? 3.Do any of you ever have problems with your car running hot during normal driving? I had a guy on another forum (not Subaru-specific) say that "any time the needle is past normal your [sic] overheated" and that "I would have to go into full temp management mode to climb a grade, even with new head gaskets"...he also went on to say that the design of the car led to poor cooling. I have a hard time believing Subaru would knowingly sell a car to the public with a cooling system that poorly designed. 4.Are there any items you guys would recommend I specifically inspect pre-purchase, and is there anything you recommend I should do shortly after initial purchase, just as peace-of-mind maintenance/care? Sorry for being so wordy, this was half an introducing myself post and half a OBW-specific post, and I could go on with all the other nit-picky questions I have. I'll stop now so you guys don't just ignore this! Anyway, I look forward to hearing what you guys have to say and hopefully adding to my Subie knowledge so that I feel comfortable when I go look at OBWs! Thanks!
