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Showing results for tags 'Subaru'.
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So about 8 months ago i crashed and totaled my previous car. after searching through Craigslist i stumbled upon my Subaru GL. She runs great i have some minor work that i need to do. the front windshield is cracked and iv noticed lots of older subarus have the same kind of crack that goes horizontal across the windshield. Anyway just because i decided to type in the car into craigslist and a couple other sites to check its value and see people listing and the worth to be somewhere between 2000-3000. And that is for worn down/ used. Maybe i am naive but to me thats ridiculously high. i have talked to a couple guys at shucks and they said its good because your able to do lots of swaps for the engine ect. I would just like some more info. I paid 500$ dollars for the thing and i do love it. (very reliable, Good gas mileage but i am still surprised. Will anyone please enlighten me on the subject?
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I recently was given a 78 Subaru Brat, which i am already in love with. I have a few plans for this thing needless to say. My first and foremost project is to build the lift kit for it. Now i have read every single thread there is on lifting a gen 1 brat, trust me, but i still need help. i have all the materials i need for a 5 inch drop lift and 6 inch strut spacers, but i am just wondering if anybody has block specs or maybe just some last minute advice? This thing is never going to be my daily driver, i have a full size Chevy for that so it doesn't need to be comfortable on the highway just somewhat safe. My brat sat in about 9 inches of mud on the side of a road for just about 20 years before i got it, and before that it was not treated well, so its really rough. But it will be perfect for an off-road toy! all i did was drain the fluids out of this thing, put new fluids in, clean spark plugs, put a new fuel pump, coil, and air filter on it and it started up perfectly and runs like new surprisingly! The transmission is pretty noisy, but it's getting quieter the more i drive it. The previous owner decided to spray red primer right over the old paint 20 years ago, and that's why it looks as bad as it does, its not rust. I will keep you guys updated with any new progress! Mine is the red/blue one in the pictures needless to say.
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My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc? -
I have a 2003 2.5l Impreza rs that recently blew its sohc ej25 engine. Would I be able to direct swap a 2.5l ej254 dohc engine without having a buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, sensors, etc?
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o/ I tried a bit of searching before hand and didn't come up with anything similar to my problem, and NASIOC didn't have much help other that the direction to this site. (Which I'm ecstatic about.) I bought a 1985 GL from my in-laws, I found the car a year ago and was about to buy it when they said they needed it more, so I let them snatch it up with the intent of buying it from them later on. Well, that time has come and now it's mine. They drove it maybe 2,000 miles in the year they owned it and did improper maintenance. Now it's got a dead lifter and 2 blown head gaskets. I'm not very concerned about those two issues, they're easy fix's for me. I am however concerned with my 4WD system. FWD works perfectly, it'll even do a one tire fire if I'm not easy on the peddle. 4hi it makes a ton of gearbox noise from the center diff, and it feels like one of the rear wheels locks up and just drags, all while going straight, I haven't dared to turn. 4lo makes the same noise however it seems to work just fine. I haven't really tried 4lo that much due to the fear of it breaking on dry pavement. The weirdest part of all this, is it only goes back in 2wd if I'm going in reverse. It refuses to go back while moving forward. If you've got idea's before I start cracking the box's open, I'm all ears.
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Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help! -
I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
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Hey guys I picked up this Loyale back in August. so far Its been awesome I have took it beyond its limits numerous times its only let me down once (in the middle of a golf course, ) The power (or lack of) is getting to me so I will be doing an engine swap in the next few months,the engine is currently sitting in the garage ready to be worked I need to do the timing belt and seals. I am using a 1990 legacy as a donor car, if anybody is interested in parts not being used for the swap let me know (I have car full ) I would like to lift it eventually.
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Hi all, I have an interesting proposal that I would like to share with you ... This is an extract taken from my AUSubaru site : Also running a bit of a poll here ... I'm trying to get some wider interest in it, to see if we can get it into production ... Cheers, Bantum ...
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Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
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hey guys ive been looking at a ton of forums for bits and pieces of the info i need but cant quite make it 100% i have myself the 2003 baja non turbo and its an automatic sadly. ive been sitting on a 5 speed that i cant seem to get sold so i was considering swapping it into my baja. now i have the brake cluster (clutch,brake,booster) the flywheel a clutch and pressure plate the tranny itself the driveshaft. basically everything. now my issue lies on the wiring,rear end, and ecu. so my questions is would i need to splice wires in do i need the ecu and i think my rear is 4.44 but im not 100% would a 4.11 rear from another subie bolt right in? any other pointers would be great. im quite confident in my ability to do the swap i just dont want to get it apart and realize i need something completely random. photos just of the things ive got.
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G'day everybody, First I'd just like to say , Great site, I have visited a couple of times over the past few weeks and found some really good info and advice from members helping others throughout these posts. Ok, so how did I get here. Well about a month ago I raced to an advertised 1998 Outback wagon, the pics showed quite a tidy car at about 1/3 to 1/4 of potential market value but the ad read that the owner thought it may have a blocked radiator. As soon as I arrive he comes out with the keys and then says he'd just come out to start it before I got there but it wouldn't start, he didn't know why and I sensed he was starting to play Possum and saying maybe because he'd reversed it onto the lawn where it was parked, slight incline nose down and wasn't sure where the fuel pickup was located as a possible reason for not starting. As I looked over the rest of the car he said it was running earlier that day, as he was flushing radiator and added fresh coolant, and apparently drove it to its current position. Supposedly it had overheated about a week prior but monitored since then and only just temp higher than normal but not critical. So one mans trash comes a Pir8s Treasure even though I knew he was playing possum and new more about it than he was making out, I was confident that I will be able to get it running still well under market value and end up with a good vehicle. Now I will continue in another forum and let you know where its at and put the feelers out for some of that good advice I mentioned earlier-
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- Pir8
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Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
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So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
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Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks -
Does anyone know what the ECS light is on the dash? I recently did a weber swap on my 1984 Subaru DL. Var runs better and stringer than ever. My only concern is that afther a while of running it (15 minues or so) a ECS light comes on. Is this anything serious what could it be and how do i get rid of it. I never had any lights come on before the swap. Thanks
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I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated
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Hi guys, I'm new here and will definitely stay active. Recently bought a 89' Leone Wagon, called L Series over here in Australia and absolutely loving it for my daily drive. I'm trying to restore it as much as I can so I'll keep everyone updated with progress pictures! I'm in need of new tyres, and saw this wagon (NOTE: Not my car), and want these exact same tyres. Anyone have an idea on the exact size of them? I'm currently rolling on 13" rims. Thanks in advance!
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Hi All, I was referred here from the CarTalk forum to seek advice on my to-be-crippled 2007 Forester. I'm the third owner of the vehicle, and the used dealer that I bought it from did a number of services to it before I purchased it, including new head gaskets. Well, his have started to fail now, and the Subaru specialist in town here has quoted me $2k for parts&labor. One person on the CarTalk forum suggested that it may be cheaper at a dealer, so some feedback on this would be appreciated -- is this a fair quote? The other thing I'm thinking about is selling the car, as I've been getting the P0420 engine code on and off for the past year now, and don't want to buy a new cat converter. How much is a fair price if I were to sell this to a dealer, and if I'm selling it privately? The car has 131k miles, a new radiator, all belts/hoses in good shape. Thanks so much! Ryan -
Just recently came a fault code on a 2013 subaru impreza P2090 "B Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1" Can any one point me in the right direction. -
Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock!
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BRAND: Subaru MODEL: 1800 GLF Leone 83' ENGINE: EA81 NA Intake system: custom intake to adopt throttle body from EJ22 + BLOS LPG EXHAUST catless ,and no restriction muffler ELECTRONICS: Electric mirrors, Lambda, an additional radiator fan switch TRANSMISSION: Manual 4 gears, conversion to RWD, differential LSD SUSPENSION: Front McPerson with springs from BMW E32, rear torsion bar with new mounting holes (for lowering) and shocks from VW T4 BRAKES: Stock BODY-KIT: no WHEELS / TYRES: Rims original with 4x140, tires 175 / 60R13 INSIDE: Velour brightly colored coffee CAR-AUDIO: Original Radio CD Speakers enough 2x with one Rema HiFi column OTHER: Installation of LPG BRC with cylindrical tank 35L located on the back. Aluminium fuel tank 25L Evaporator BRC AT90. BLOS PLANS: efi convert [video=youtube]
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- minizolciak
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon and I purchased a new battery in March. After purchasing the new battery I drove the car daily for awhile, but about 2 weeks ago I stopped driving it and it was sitting for about 4 or 5 days. After those 4 or 5 days I tried to start it again and it would not start and none of the lights would come on either. I do know that one of the car's back doors will not close properly, and this causes a very small dashboard light to remain lit constantly when the battery is charged. Could it be that this very small light caused the battery to drain over time? I am guessing that doing a jump start will recharge the battery at this point since the battery is brand new. But do you think that small dashboard light is what caused the battery to die in the first place? Do you think it will eventually die again due to this light even if I am able to get it started by jumping it? If so, is there an easy way to disable this dashboard light without having an effect on the vehicle? I had planned to sell the vehicle since I was no longer using it, but this may not be a possibility unless I can get it started by jumping it. Even then, I would hate for the person who purchased it to have the battery die on them for any reason like it did on me. -
Got a good deal on this 99 legacy, has a 2.2 (hole in the block) and a 4eat. want to go lower (on the cheap), but first i need to find a 2.2 or 2.5 short block for a reasonable price. Not much to see here yet, but it will hopefully have either an n/a frankenmotor or a turbo 2.2 here soon, as well as an option for full manual mode on the 4eat. -
Both codes 34 and 35 are flashing on the LED Under the steering column. Most of what I find online supports the same information that it is the two components or systems I have listed in the title. I am capable of changing things on vehicles, and usually there is a wealth of information, but for some reason not mine. Is there a clear demonstration video or a list of how to diagnose why there may be a malfunction in the solenoid/ system? I would hope I can change the part myself, provided access is not too complicated. Also How can I tell if the air charge sensor is malfunctioning versus the rest of the circuit? I am having a difficult time clearly identifying these components under the hood. the more detail the better. I am hoping to find a manual specific to this vehicle without the ambiguities that a manual covering different models might have.
